tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10734175460570968572024-02-07T16:59:44.303-08:00Mutterings of a Mid-Aged MuttBarry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.comBlogger58125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-88225136121355188482022-02-15T07:25:00.003-08:002022-02-15T07:43:07.454-08:00'Waste Not, Want Not' - Annual vs Multi-Year Funding - Development Assistance Perspectives<h3 style="text-align: center;"> In-field assessment highlighting implications of Norad's annual funding on localization efforts - including collaboration, learning and adaptive management.</h3><h4 style="text-align: center;">Text by Blogger </h4><div><br /></div><div><h4 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRwf7xUYyO4yZM94iirTbx4bR6JJZuPHyFlZrdDWY9bBLpV-dnldSEuRcSHRlW4DjENzP82E-wnix_-qCiSMeY26QjJ4NpTDqSzcPYnwP2P_CtGKlvH1kiLbMbfuvE4ceCGKBgshZQEZr/s1300/17196974-abstract-word-cloud-for-official-development-assistance-with-related-tags-and-terms.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1203" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRwf7xUYyO4yZM94iirTbx4bR6JJZuPHyFlZrdDWY9bBLpV-dnldSEuRcSHRlW4DjENzP82E-wnix_-qCiSMeY26QjJ4NpTDqSzcPYnwP2P_CtGKlvH1kiLbMbfuvE4ceCGKBgshZQEZr/w370-h400/17196974-abstract-word-cloud-for-official-development-assistance-with-related-tags-and-terms.jpg" width="370" /></a></h4></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: justify;">Introduction</h4><p style="text-align: justify;">This post asks critical questions around the efficacy of funding modalities (enduring and current) in a period of unprecedented change. It is very specific to one donor, one international <span style="font-family: inherit;">non-governmental organization </span>implementing <span style="font-family: inherit;">within the </span>Sudan country context. However, since the <span style="font-family: inherit;">Norwegian
Agency for Development Cooperation (Norad) funds several I</span>NGOs globally, often across a dozen or more countries, aid effectiveness issues are compounded. My most recent experience was with Norwegian Church Aid (NCA) as Sudan's Country Program Manager spanning a period of two years (2019-2021). The 'world's apart' policy and institutional arrangement <i>disconnect</i> between Oslo-Norway and the field, including implementation realities and challenges, is argued. Similarly, lofty ODA principles and ideals, articulated in Norad strategies and on organizational websites are shown to be a contradiction in terms and to actively hamper sustainable development. A local, in-country partner perspective is offered as they grapple to take full ownership of projects within increasing fragility and instability. Finally, potential solutions are offered through a range of scenarios in order to respond, proactively, to very real and stifling implementation challenged. </p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Funding and programming in times of unprecedented uncertainty</h4><p style="text-align: justify;">Aside from the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, during my tenure in Sudan the country and its people endured the Revolution for Freedom and Change (2019) which toppled the dictatorial Bashir regime. Barely a year later, a 100-year Nile flooding event inundated 17 of the country's 18 states causing widespread infrastructure damage and untold socio-economic misery. Subsequently, the country has endured several coup attempts which culminated in the telling October 2021 coup. This has seen the reversal of transitional democratic gains and further plunged the country into <i>debilitating paralysis</i>. </p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;"><span><span>Actual measures
of aid effectives range from the traditional stalwarts of accountability,
performance-spend, outcomes-impact, capacity development, sustainability to
more recent indicators including collaboration-partnerships, learning and
knowledge management, localization and adaptive management. Recent ODA trends are towards </span></span><span>empowering</span><span><span> and enabling local partners, NGO's and implementers to take full control (ownership) of their development destinies. In the case Sudan herein lies an anomaly and perhaps, a contradiction. Even so, there remains an argument for a departure from the <i>same old, same old </i>boilerplate, funding template. </span></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Siles (PM4DEV Blog, 2021) supports the notion of an adaptive project management approach in relation to </span><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">development projects, citing several reasons that set ODA apart from '</span><span><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">traditional (or predictive) project management.' </span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 7.5pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: arial;"><span>ODA takes place in </span><span>complex, non-linear, and unpredictable environments:</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 7.5pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: left;"></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial;">The ODA goal </span><span style="font-family: arial;">is not simply completion but rather about process, engagement and content - the HOW in project delivery. Equally central are the ownership and satisfaction of various and diverse stakeholders;</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;">The interconnectedness of elements in the project cycle where every project is a dynamic, </span><span style="font-family: arial;">learning environment;</span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;">Initial and ongoing assumptions are never accurate hence a 'design and implement' methodology can introduce real time flexibility and responsiveness; </span></li><li><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: arial;">Change is inevitable, increasingly variable and is happening with greater regularity. </span></li></ol></span><p></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 7.5pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: #222222; font-family: Heebo;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: #222222; font-family: Heebo;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjWcWpY9-0qWndplpTw76XiRbkqiwKQOaobD60d_KG_9fxq5CbKhPpMHqFDP9dADN-23gxwm3cnsjPSgdxlSBPi6ftw0KGbd34wa-jdY3o01aSch2EQRccJlJweC8OPH4SF2aFanVb1anJ/s554/aid1.jpg" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-weight: 700; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="401" data-original-width="554" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjWcWpY9-0qWndplpTw76XiRbkqiwKQOaobD60d_KG_9fxq5CbKhPpMHqFDP9dADN-23gxwm3cnsjPSgdxlSBPi6ftw0KGbd34wa-jdY3o01aSch2EQRccJlJweC8OPH4SF2aFanVb1anJ/w640-h464/aid1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Heebo;"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Heebo;"><br /></span></p><h4 style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 7.5pt; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: arial;">Norad in a nutshell </span></h4><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">According to the Norad website, the
agency’s primary purpose is to 'ensure that development aid funds are spent in
the best possible way, and to report on what works and does not.’ The
Agency is a directorate under the Norwegian Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA).
Norad’s functions are laid down in the agency’s terms of references and annual
letters of allocation issued by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the
Ministry of Climate and Environment.<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><o:p> </o:p>In their new
strategy, <i>‘Norad of the future’</i>, the agency aligns itself scrupulously
with the 2030 Sustainable Development Goals as strategic and
operational foundations.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><o:p> '</o:p>Norad will make every effort to ensure the goals
are achieved!' In so doing: </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li style="text-align: justify;">The agency's main task
is to invest strategically in cooperation with partners.</li><li style="text-align: justify;">Norad's work must
be based on knowledge and insight – facts inform policy.</li><li style="text-align: justify;">Quality
assurance (and monitoring) of Norwegian aid measures is one of the agency's most
important responsibilities. </li></ol><o:p></o:p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>As a comparative analysis, the </span><span>USAID Framework for Collaborating, Learning, and
Adapting (explicit in the Norad approach)</span><span> is the State Department's way of incorporating cutting-edge and <i>agile</i>
approaches into foreign assistance. The data-informed approach requires programs
to </span><span>proactively measure outputs; </span><span>share good and bad practice with donors, and make rapid pivots to always enhance outcomes - impact. The end result, hopefully, is effective aid.</span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span> </span><span style="line-height: 107%;">The <i>Agile</i> approach and associated software<span> focuses on 'speeding up solution delivery and
enabling earlier decision-making with incremental, iterative planning and
execution, led by small teams that collaborate closely with stakeholders to
respond rapidly to change.' A notable difference is that whereas Norad implements annually through a multi-year framework agreements, USAID provides multi-year funding ranging between a </span></span><span>3-5 year period. USAID characterises its </span><span>operating environments</span><span> as 'some </span><span>of the most chaotic and challenging on earth.' Norad operates within the very same environments.</span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span> </span>In countless animated discussions with NCA colleagues, in Sudan and Oslo, on the issue of annual funding limitations many dismiss, outright, the notion of any form of <i>status quo</i> change with a resigned shoulder shrug and this is the way its always done. Seemingly, a change requires parliamentary, constitutional and policy amendments - too hard to contemplate and do since it involves key, gatekeeper ministries in Foreign Affairs and Climate and Environment. Whatever happened to a living, flexible and responsive policy ODA framework? </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">Strikingly, according to Norad's 2020/2021 Annual Report (entitled <i>Knowledge in a
time of crisis</i> – Norad Evaluation department) an overriding principle in the evaluation and by implication, <i>aid effectiveness</i> of Norwegian development
cooperation has been that 'the development assistance system must continue to
learn from experience.' Whereas the report poses a key, recurring question of: How can we ensure that lessons learned from completed
evaluations are incorporated into the ongoing work of improving Norwegian
development cooperation, it seems rather light on 'learning by doing' answers. A rapid scan of several evaluation reports commissioned by Norad in recent years reveals no mention of funding modalities (annual and multi-year) and how they may impact, big-picture, upon planning and program delivery. </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">The report cites 3 key findings. </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li style="text-align: justify;">'Better decision-making basis is needed in development
assistance. Cooperation is risk-tolerant and flexible, but it also entails important challenges on how
knowledge is applied' - a clear reference to the issue of <i>agility</i> and the willingness to make essential pivots or adaptive management;</li><li style="text-align: justify;">Development cooperation must
strengthen its ability to collect data and perform analyses and evaluations as
part of and during ongoing initiatives in order to improve results management (refer to contemporary aid effectiveness - measures and the perennial question of : <i>What is the purpose of M&E'?;</i></li><li style="text-align: justify;">'We do not work systematically
enough with countries that advance from low-income to middle-income status.' </li></ol><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">The report's concluding comment is that the 'starting point for how the whole system must view - <i>Knowledge in a time of crisis </i>learning and is the responsibility of everyone who is involved in Norwegian development cooperation.' This implies that ALL, of the dozen or so Norwegian NGOs (receiving in total 15.12 % of Norad framework funding), have the responsibility too seek creative solutions and incorporate <span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: arial;"><span>adaptive approaches especially in funding and </span><span>project management</span><span> iterations. </span><span> </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;"><br /></p><h4 style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Norwegian Church Aid (NCA) in partnership with Norad</h4><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The Norad-related graphics depicted in this section below are outdated but nevertheless useful in the portrayal of basic background information and general funding trends in recent years. Its questionable as to whether the same B.C. - before COVID-19 data and analysis is available at this point in time as the pandemic lingers into its third year. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLLUDCsSho_oYQAI_u-eliHhqzsPNQVusd9letiat4NPj5Pvzmyt0QxXU-SZ8Hqms0LNILmIDxCoDnlwiujhEYJtEsIRtzPxV_Dzx4UM8X6zSzNll7hJG6nHTuZ36QhZQFX_l3IAdtQkY/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="225" data-original-width="400" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLLUDCsSho_oYQAI_u-eliHhqzsPNQVusd9letiat4NPj5Pvzmyt0QxXU-SZ8Hqms0LNILmIDxCoDnlwiujhEYJtEsIRtzPxV_Dzx4UM8X6zSzNll7hJG6nHTuZ36QhZQFX_l3IAdtQkY/w400-h225/image.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: justify;">Fast Facts: Current NCA agreement with the Norwegian Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA)</h4><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li style="text-align: justify;">NCA’s four-year Strategic
Partnership Agreement (SPA) with the MFA is entitled NCA Saves Lives,
Alleviates Suffering and Protects Human Dignity;</li><li style="text-align: justify;">SPA is valid from January
1, 2020 to December 31, 2023. The total financial frame is NOK 840 000
000 (annual frame of NOK 210 000 000);</li><li style="text-align: justify;">Twelve
countries are included: Afghanistan, Bangladesh, DRC, Iraq, Lebanon,
Mali, Nigeria, Palestine, Somalia, South Sudan, Sudan and Syria. Five
countries, Lebanon, Nigeria, Somalia, South Sudan and Syria, <span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">are
included for the entire agreement period</span>;</span></li><li style="text-align: justify;">Six global projects are also included and focus on
six areas: Capacity and Response; Coordination and Advocacy; WASH; GBV; ASRH;
and Protection. </li></ul><h4 style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: left;"><p></p><div style="text-align: justify;">Fast Facts: Current NCA agreement with the Norwegian Agency for Development Cooperation (Norad)</div></h4></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li style="text-align: justify;">NCA’s five-year
Cooperation Agreement (CA) with Norad commits NOK 1.7 billion to its long-term
development programmes and is valid from January 1, 2020 to December 31, 2024; </li><li style="text-align: justify;">The Cooperation Agreement comprises: - A global civil society grant
entitled Leveraging Faith Towards Inclusive and Just Societies which consists
of six thematic programmes (Gender-Based Violence, Climate Resilient WASH,
Peacebuilding; Climate Smart Economic Empowerment; Faith-Based Climate Action
and Fighting Inequality);</li><li style="text-align: justify;">The grant is implemented in 17 countries and
includes two regional programmes; one global programme and global projects. -
Minorities of Faith and Belief; and - Regional grants in eight countries.</li></ul><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><o:p></o:p></p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNfduUslPzo7dgc0EfmRSvHMDV2VcAO82UNvJtKFPn79mtVcO1MDaTZXftCrvIvnrYR8IGMAV7Mi9yOKvg7FLKCQjIGMKDZEfYOiEdYa58AeXGoZQ9csS9Ogzc5Z7cAQ_7G47gYjviq2P/s1065/DXErk-5WkAAEcrU.jpg" style="font-weight: 700; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="821" data-original-width="1065" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNfduUslPzo7dgc0EfmRSvHMDV2VcAO82UNvJtKFPn79mtVcO1MDaTZXftCrvIvnrYR8IGMAV7Mi9yOKvg7FLKCQjIGMKDZEfYOiEdYa58AeXGoZQ9csS9Ogzc5Z7cAQ_7G47gYjviq2P/w640-h494/DXErk-5WkAAEcrU.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Funding Updates, as at February 2022, according to Donor Tracker</h4><p style="text-align: left;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Norway is the ninth-largest donor country, spending US$4.2 billion on ODA in 2020. It is second-largest donor in proportion to the size of its economy: ODA stood at 1.11% of the country's gross national income (GNI). There is a cross-party consensus to maintain ODA at around 1% of GNI. </span></li><li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Norway’s commitment to spend 1% of its GNI on development cooperation means that increases in ODA are closely linked to Norway’s economic growth. In May of 2020, the government reiterated its intention to uphold this commitment, even in the wake of the COVID-19 crisis. The new government, in place since September of 2021, is also committed to spending 1% of its GNI on development cooperation. Due to the economic downturn caused by the pandemic, the ODA budget is marginally lower than 2020. </span></li><li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">In October of 2021 the government proposed the budget for 2022, which includes a development assistance budget of over NOK41.0 billion (US$ 4.7 billion ). This corresponds to 1% of Norway’s estimated GNI for 2022 and would mean an 8% increase in ODA over 2021. The proposed budget still needs to be approved by the parliament.</span></li></ul><div><br /></div><p></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">NCA Sudan: typical annual funding and project management cycle dictated by MFA-Norad.</h4><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A significant portion of NCA Sudan's programming is implemented 'indirectly' through local partners or NGO's (also referred to as accompanied partners). They are a mix of long to short-standing relationships, ranging from highly to less competent implementers. Some, thanks for NCA's ongoing support, have diversified their funding base and receive multi-year contributions from other donors beyond the NCA: MFA and Norad pool. Others, less experienced and innovative rely wholly on NCA: MFA and Norad funding. This <i>single source funding dependency</i> is problematic and contrary to localization and sustainable development. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Within the over-arching framework agreements (both SPA-MFA and CA-Norad) budgets and workplans are prepared, in-country by both NCA: Sudan and local partners, for the upcoming calendar usually in the final quarter of the preceding year. The Norwegian Parliament approves aid budget appropriations in February/March and several weeks later (roughly March/April) Norwegian INGOs receive approved funding which could differ from the framework agreements and rarely match or are aligned with in-field budgets and workplans. Workplan and budget revisions are then required to achieve an annual funding match. This translates to revisions at local partner level too. The propensity for and preoccupation with over-planning and budgeting reduces this to an often senseless, repetitive, mind-numbing tick-box exercise. Local implementing partners finally receive funding (May/June) to kick off operations for the year usually in 2-3 tranches. Several implementation months are already lost. Typically in Sudan, the arrival of MFA-Norad funding coincides with that of the wet - rainy season which, with increasing climate change-driven variability, extends from June through to October. During this period large parts of the rural countryside are inaccessible and hard - infrastructure activities have to be postponed to the drier, final quarter of the year. Soft activities centred around community mobilization, education and training at accessible towns and villages are possible.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Challenges: </div><div style="text-align: left;"><ol style="text-align: left;"><li style="text-align: justify;">Local partners are only able to retain core Khartoum staff - due to cash flow issues between successive years. Field staff located at strategic state locations have to be recruited annually once funding becomes available in the new calendar year (most project staff are unemployed between January-June). </li><li style="text-align: justify;">In some instances, salaries only are advanced to local partners to retain staff but then activity - operational funding only follows several months later with the result that project staff are being paid for little or no work effort. </li><li style="text-align: justify;">In the absence of operational funding, there is the perpetuation of planning - planning to plan - going through the motions - reactive. </li><li style="text-align: justify;">Broken, insecure and inconsistent tenure impacts upon loyalty and motivation. </li><li style="text-align: justify;">Competent staff with high demand - required skills, knowledge and attitudes (SKAs) are lured across to other NGOs and UN agencies as more stable and long-term tenure is almost guaranteed ie annual or multi-year contracts as opposed to 6 months.</li><li style="text-align: justify;">Key environmental factors and a short 4-6 month implementation period means that standards and quality implementation are often comprised in the mad dash to spend operational funding by December 15th. </li><li style="text-align: justify;">Unspent funds have to be returned with no option of roll or carry-overs - there is the possibility that funding can be squandered or irresponsibly spent in order to clear the books.</li><li style="text-align: justify;">Localization and ownership is stymied and instead of setting good development assistance examples/practice, local partners are frustrated by systems, procedures and funding idiosyncrasies beyond their control. </li><li style="text-align: justify;">Local partner innovation and creativity is removed from the Triple Nexus equation resorting to a default same same principle without any form of flexibility or acknowledgement of the local, in-country context and challenges. </li><li style="text-align: justify;">The concept and practice of complexity awareness monitoring, particularly in fragile and conflict awareness countries such as Sudan, is largely redundant and ignored. There is little or no opportunity for application of learning - adaptive management - AUTOREPEAT is the normative practice. </li><li style="text-align: justify;">Sustainable development becomes the casualty with desperate beneficiaries being short-changed. </li></ol><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></div><h4 style="text-align: center;"><br /></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyffIPAQW0nuZjF8r_DoGWHUCDMT-LsHN2MS33RknPvMM_diF0UmIlAJP-ACgJ1lNQ8RWiQpHt7xN7S6HEW1lMteUxixDRwqbGqev3s-YMRDloPPrqSN9JuDsnMB6b5utT0e4rObDFgx7D/s960/Budget-graphics.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="960" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyffIPAQW0nuZjF8r_DoGWHUCDMT-LsHN2MS33RknPvMM_diF0UmIlAJP-ACgJ1lNQ8RWiQpHt7xN7S6HEW1lMteUxixDRwqbGqev3s-YMRDloPPrqSN9JuDsnMB6b5utT0e4rObDFgx7D/s320/Budget-graphics.jpg" width="320" /></a></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></h4><h4 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Scenario planning - Learning from Lessons</h4><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Practise what is preached - Pause, Reflect and Adapt</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><u>High Road Scenario </u></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Introduce multi-year funding modelled on other donor experiences - methodology commencing with a 3-year funding period initially and then moving to 5-years with effect from the new Norad-MFA funding framework agreement in 2026.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><u>Mid Road Scenario</u> </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Pilot, across a minimum of 50% of Norwegian INGOs, 2-multi year funding commencing in 2024 for the remaining 2 years of the <span style="text-align: center;">Norad funding framework agreement Yrs 2024/2025</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><u>Low Road Scenario</u></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Pilot, across a minimum of 25% of Norwegian INGOs, 2-multi year funding commencing in 2024 for the remaining 2 years of the <span style="text-align: center;">Norad funding framework agreement Yrs 2024/2025.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-24074083664387038872021-10-25T20:51:00.000-07:002021-10-25T20:51:54.762-07:00Write off pale, aged males 45 and older at your peril!<p></p><h1 style="text-align: center;"><br /></h1><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Text by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3><p></p><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px;"><p></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXyvpc6mYZSBhjZMfl-93Ykae_ZzYluZCaaq-2FfgQpL9NvmUh-uPvNnqhrzT2_J5XFzHiHCe-bzTRPLzsFcfKYahgqgxmonE0B8kMi-WBVVI8tPfsRdX7c_jxTL2ijszH4QixoWJ69vNZ/s800/Martin+Personnel_recruitment.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="517" data-original-width="800" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXyvpc6mYZSBhjZMfl-93Ykae_ZzYluZCaaq-2FfgQpL9NvmUh-uPvNnqhrzT2_J5XFzHiHCe-bzTRPLzsFcfKYahgqgxmonE0B8kMi-WBVVI8tPfsRdX7c_jxTL2ijszH4QixoWJ69vNZ/w640-h414/Martin+Personnel_recruitment.jpg" width="640" /></a></h4></blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></h4><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Introduction</span></h3><div style="text-align: justify;"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Reflections,
based on recent international and in-Australia job search efforts spanning
several months, are shared. Harsh realities, within the context of a staccato
COVID-19 pandemic recovery, impacting upon Official Development Assistance
(ODA) – international development and humanitarian aid are listed.
Cash-strapped nations have reduced aid-spend; project pipelines have narrowed,
and delivery delays are commonplace; in the face of the Afghan debacle there
is, hopefully, a collective conscience and re-think on issues of policy, aid
effectiveness, conditionality, accountability, localization; and a resurgence
of nationalization has seen most countries reasserting their own agendas (in
their national interest) and hiring nationals first within a reduced funding
and job market. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The
parochial domestic job market, COVID-cloistered, has been shaken and stirred by
a blockade on incoming skilled migrant labour and a corresponding outflow or brain
drain. Early reports were of a shortage of 500,000 skilled labour to a more
recent estimate or call for an <span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">‘explosive,
country-wide post-World War II-style immigration surge’ that could bring in 2
million people over five years to rebuild the faltering economy and </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1pt none windowtext; padding: 0cm;">address crippling
labour shortages</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">. Fortress
Australia stands resolute, and we all wait, with bated breath, to see how the
stately dominoes will tumble post-lockdown in the newest scramble and surge. The pale, male and stale (PMS) stereotype
along with the prevailing human resources management preoccupation of Gender,
Equality, Diversity and Social Inclusion (GEDSI) are touched upon.</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #111111;"> </span>It is
against this backdrop that observations, trends and considerations – solutions are
thrown into the mix. </span><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Trending: Talent Acquisition </span></h3><div style="text-align: left;"><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">Donotreply and automated responses generated by
talent acquisition specialists and their sophisticated recruitment - careers
software are previewed below. </span><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">After careful consideration, we advise that on
this occasion, your application has been unsuccessful. </span></i><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">We have
decided to progress with other candidates <u>more closely suited to our
requirements at this time.</u></span></i><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; background: rgb(127, 96, 0); font-family: inherit;">At G&&&&&, we seek candidates
who can g<u>enuinely add value to our business</u>.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; background: rgb(127, 96, 0); font-family: inherit;">We assessed that the <u>breadth of your skills and
experience were not at the same level as those of the shortlisted candidates.</u><o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; background: rgb(127, 96, 0); font-family: inherit;">Your resume will be maintained in our database
for future positions, and <u>if a strong match is found between your skills,
experience and requirements of a position a member of the resourcing team will
be in touch with you.</u> We encourage you to spend a few minutes periodically to
ensure that your information is up to date. <o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<h4 style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; background: rgb(127, 96, 0); font-family: inherit;">Some compelling questions for consideration.</span></b></h4>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; background: rgb(127, 96, 0); font-family: inherit;"> What
does this generic, robotic jargon mean? Should it be taken at face value?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">Is there more conspiratorial – subliminal
messaging therein? Could it be that
embedded in these codified and nuanced phrases are measures of woke-Manship,
and in vogue GEDSI parlance with promising intent yet less applied knowledge
and experience on how to make this happen?</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">Or could it be the folly of job
markets where perhaps supply outstrips demand and recruiters are phishing in
deep, yet opaque talent pools to try and draw out whoppers as opposed to minnows - candidates
that can </span><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">genuinely add value?</span></i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; background: rgb(127, 96, 0); font-family: inherit;">This seems to contradict current and anticipated labour
market shortages (domestic and international) flagged above? </span><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;">Even in the face of almost Australia-wide lockdowns and job seeker/keeper
economic stimuli, the flood of job advertisements and re-advertisement continue
unabated. Speculative, shots in the dark or displacement activity? </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; background: rgb(127, 96, 0);">In relation to the issues of PMS and GEDSI, this
is a case of </span><span face=""Arial",sans-serif">déjà vu since</span><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span face=""Arial",sans-serif">its was a lived reality (as a senior
public servant, management consultant, scholar, development practitioner) I
contended with daily in the post-Apartheid South Africa (1996-2005). Only then, in my role as Deputy Director: HR Training and Development - Office of the Premier, I was the sole white male </span></span>albeit much younger<span style="font-family: inherit;">. Best
described at the time as:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">‘Experienced,
firsthand, workplace social re-engineering/accelerated transformation initiatives
and the implications thereof. Attempts include Apartheid – racism and reverse
racism; gender mainstreaming, Peter Principle; Imposter Syndrome (elaborated on
further) affirmative action; black economic empowerment (BEE) preferential
procurement; and other guises, overt or covert, of redress laid bare, often, as
blatant discrimination.’ <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Then,
as now, there are many 'lips to be serviced' but the absence of a clear, pragmatic,
and coherent <i>‘how’</i> to do this in a measured, common sense and sustainable
way. Jerky knees! <o:p></o:p></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif">Peter Principle - notes</span><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="text-align: left;"> that employees, in a typical corporate structure, </span><span style="text-align: left;"><span>tend to advance to 'a level of respective incompetence' - personnel are promoted based on their success in previous jobs until they reach a level at which they are no longer competent, as knowledge, skills and abilities (KSAs) in one job does not necessarily translate to another. Indiscriminate accelerated development and promotion, often within historically marginalized groups, often compounds workplace incompetence with negative consequences of mainstream organizational resistance and dissatisfaction. Some beneficiaries thrive in this context but others wilt under this immense pressure and scrutiny to perform and live up to unrealistic expectations. Job-hopping often results in order to stay ahead of the in-competence curve and </span></span></span></span><span style="background-color: #7f6000; text-align: left;">as upward mobility is increasingly and artificially sweetened</span><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">. </span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;"><span><span style="text-align: left;"><span>Imposter Syndrome <span>- nagging and persistent emotions </span></span></span></span><span><span style="text-align: left;">of inadequacy despite demonstrable markers of achievement. </span><span style="text-align: left;">Imposters suffer from 'chronic self-doubt and a sense of intellectual fraudulence that override any feelings of success or external verification of their competence.'</span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;">As with the Peter Principle and the Imposter Syndrome, the Pale, Male and Stale (PMS) stereotype and caricature has occupied the HR and organizational development space for decades. It is <span><span>often attributed to Nasa administrator Daniel Goldin who, in 1992, criticised the lack of diversity in the space agency. More recently, as GEDSI strategies gather implementation momentum, </span></span><span><span>the dominant view is that they - PMS should stand aside, and no longer be seen and heard. </span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Toss
in a healthy dose of ageism as well and a further layer is added to an already
complex conundrum. Whilst acknowledging we cannot maintain the workplace status quo –
auto-repeating ‘same old same,’ there are countless experiences and lessons out
there to learn from. Ever tried excluding your age as a ‘mandatory field’ and
having your online application stopped in its tracks or perhaps fudging it (the
algorithm) only then to be thwarted, at the final click, by the requirement to
make an honest, accurate and truthful disclosure of private information. Strange is it not, that you can fudge or decline from disclosing 'voluntary information' related to your race - ethnicity, gender and sexual identity, disability status, special accommodation(s) etc.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrD4xVnnhwn301HIdbifV1U-PBBvSYm4LRGE1ypdziu3G35sLr6zKKpYI6MWyZdrs4aUa2iywziNXas7qwQ5xtkfCPf7P0LAzkQOfUgIEnp7TEurRznuozHOfC0Xyfm-B1vn9l8NX8mfFv/s421/b99a935d0e274bea95a04d2ba561b2bd.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="421" data-original-width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrD4xVnnhwn301HIdbifV1U-PBBvSYm4LRGE1ypdziu3G35sLr6zKKpYI6MWyZdrs4aUa2iywziNXas7qwQ5xtkfCPf7P0LAzkQOfUgIEnp7TEurRznuozHOfC0Xyfm-B1vn9l8NX8mfFv/s16000/b99a935d0e274bea95a04d2ba561b2bd.jpg" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><h3 style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Making sense of non-sense</span></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Although an enduring challenge, fittingly described as the 'disconnect' between executive, senior management and
human resource units, this is clearly exacerbated by the recent pandemic with the unprecedented </span>pace and complexity of change. <span style="font-family: inherit;">With the former exec-cadre not always 'understanding or investing’ in the <i>o</i></span><i>ptional extras</i> - <span style="font-family: inherit;">contemporary transformative agendas/roles including (People, Culture, Community, Social Performance, Environment, Engagement, Leadership and Learning,
Learning and Development, Policing of Pronouns, Wellbeing and Wellness - Mental Health). Arguably, their perspective is more about the bottom
line and short term survival and less about equity and sustainability? What ever happened seasoned General Managers? The
perennial, organizational development, argument of generalist versus specialist is perhaps entirely a different topic of conversation for another time.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Have executives
– senior managers (PMS) dropped some balls?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In addition to
keeping all these balls in the air, human resource units are required to fathom out a response to the
omni-present COVID-19 pandemic and the issue of making remote work successful/combating alienation. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Having said this, there are several reasons not to write off the PMS pariah generation just yet. </span></p>
<h4 style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">6 Reasons not to w</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">rite off,
pale males aged 45 onwards</span></h4>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"></p><ul><li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Provide an
organizational steady, stable ‘homeostasis’ state. Cohesive – adhesive glue. </span></li><li><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Often constitute the institutional memory and the
tacit – experiential (intangible - </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="text-align: left;">personal wisdom, experience, insight, and intuition</span><span>)</span></span><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> knowledge base of organizations spanning
several years. This includes catastrophic events such as mergers and acquisitions; global financial and other crises </span><span>i.e.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> lived change which infuses the institution and staff with confidence, resilience, resolve, patience and expert knowledge.</span></span></span></li><li><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Can prove to be invaluable allies and catalysts for change - the q<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">uiet and sensibility in the
storm of transformational change. The caveat is to build change programs (GEDSI etc) with and around them not as a stand alone event but as a creative, dynamic and inclusive collaboration. There needs to be a collective acknowledgement, within organizations, that they are on an enduring change
trajectory for more frequent, more momentous, more variable, more opportunistic change where adaptive management becomes the default response. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></li><li><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></o:p></span><span>They can, generally, hustle and hack it – once again the resilience theme!</span></span></li><li><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;">Many are also at the career point where they've made their respective mark(s), and
perhaps, have reflected upon work and life, personal and organizational legacies with hopefully a corresponding
receptiveness to change, add value and give others a fair go. </span></span></li><li><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Tacit knowledge - </span></span><span style="text-align: left;"><span>wisdom, experience, insight, and intuition is the traditional mainstay of most societies and cultures. It is indispensable - it means and counts for something adding gravitas and respect. </span></span></span></li></ul><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span>
<br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Conversely, aged pale males can also serve as gatekeepers, highly resistant to change and as active saboteurs retarding progressive transformation. If anything else, these mutterings are a veiled threat - a rocket up the Khyber Pass to stale males that the 'age of entitlement' is over, and that their games need considerable lifting if they wish to remain a force in the workplace. </span></div></span>
</span><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;">What do you identify, most, with?</span></div><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: inherit;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;">Mediocrity or Excellence?<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;">Level playing fields at all – what cost?<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I identify with pale males aged 45 years and older - less so with the derogatory 'stale' moniker. With life-long learning behind
and ahead I'm still able to make a contribution in an empowering, energetic and enabling fashion. I embrace change and challenge and shy away from neither. I also accept that there are f</span><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">our (4) or more sides to every argument.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">They say age is but a number (and a state of mind), so according to my calculations I still have another highly productive and professional 15 years to early retirement. Having reached my <span style="font-family: inherit;">prime, the very best years are clearly ahead of me. I identify with creative collaborations
between HR, senior management, and other organizational units, spearheaded by a
credible manager, who leads transformation as a strategic and social </span>imperative. <span style="font-family: inherit;">I can relate to the young, restless, impatient, and ambitious as I’ve young adult offspring</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> of my own. However, we all need to </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">bide and do our time, there is no quick-fix or substitute for experience. Journeys and destinations are inseparable - they are part of the same continuum!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;"><u><b>Post Script: </b></u>I celebrate my 59</span><sup style="font-family: inherit;">th</sup><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: inherit;"> birthday in the
month of November and whereas celebratory greetings will not be amiss, I’d far
prefer a few promising job prospects AND OR concrete offers. </span></div></div><p style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><u>General Disclaimer:</u></b> This is a personal blog. </span><span face=""Arial","sans-serif"" style="line-height: 18.4px;">Sentiments reflected are solely those of the blogger and do not represent those of people, institutions and organizations that the blogger may or may not be associated with in his personal and professional capacities. This includes </span><span face=""Arial","sans-serif"" style="line-height: 18.4px;">previous, current and any future employers. Expressed views and opinions are not intended to malign anyone. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_JiTcJTg2_PLsjgYDR9FxFaQzffQqYcDCPN5fZdfpFLsJYhu8dQjyCfccMzn3WMQUSkDWMlEjVsAEb52Z4Rw4r5wTkcQbjVHNNWXszrPMlxnyU-318Q5SEMDDm8lYJxuxHBfOSKB0a8Mw/s800/44447018.jpg" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_JiTcJTg2_PLsjgYDR9FxFaQzffQqYcDCPN5fZdfpFLsJYhu8dQjyCfccMzn3WMQUSkDWMlEjVsAEb52Z4Rw4r5wTkcQbjVHNNWXszrPMlxnyU-318Q5SEMDDm8lYJxuxHBfOSKB0a8Mw/s800/44447018.jpg" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="800" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_JiTcJTg2_PLsjgYDR9FxFaQzffQqYcDCPN5fZdfpFLsJYhu8dQjyCfccMzn3WMQUSkDWMlEjVsAEb52Z4Rw4r5wTkcQbjVHNNWXszrPMlxnyU-318Q5SEMDDm8lYJxuxHBfOSKB0a8Mw/w400-h279/44447018.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><p></p>Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0MQX9+WH Boorowa NSW, Australia-34.3002448 148.7689857-62.610478636178847 113.6127357 -5.9900109638211561 -176.07476429999997tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-72067496288764051862018-08-23T21:30:00.001-07:002018-09-02T04:07:11.409-07:00Collaborating, Learning and Adapting (CLA) through Walkabout<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Text </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">and Pictures by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
</h3>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<br /><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: x-large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_vDPnScfTqrt5fw-d8m_7qIesSo9I-6gvpEW5Ij42O50HaAQt9PSvDhMeL_dqafx_Ey5YsDbYzGEeApHdrZcRKIS941UWFDXuiC7nOFQ0mWxi0bumb3JCbfbTq4lK-xkKVD45Jd_95fs/s1600/P1020372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_vDPnScfTqrt5fw-d8m_7qIesSo9I-6gvpEW5Ij42O50HaAQt9PSvDhMeL_dqafx_Ey5YsDbYzGEeApHdrZcRKIS941UWFDXuiC7nOFQ0mWxi0bumb3JCbfbTq4lK-xkKVD45Jd_95fs/s640/P1020372.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">There is no substitute for 'Walkabout' particularly in the official development assistance context </span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Background<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">Ironically, the
term <i>walkabout </i>is recognized in
technical and business management parlance as MBWA <span style="background-color: #7f6000;">or </span></span><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">management</span><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"> by walking around. It was popularized in the ‘80s and
involves managers meandering
about in an unstructured manner, arbitrarily through the workplace, to check
with employees/beneficiaries, equipment, or on the status of continuing work. An
Antipodean variation on the theme is the journey of discovery or rite of
passage during which adolescent males, in Australian Aboriginal culture, live
in the wilderness for a period up to six months. This enables them to make the
spiritual and traditional transition into adulthood. This socio-cultural practice
is entrenched, in various guises, in many traditional and even contemporary
societies (including African) marking an important learning and developmental
milestone in someone’s life. One could argue that the ‘generalized practice’ is
second nature but has been lost or severely eroded over time by external
influences including urbanization and globalization. Sense-around or the three
L’s of Listening, Looking and Learning are at the core of the walkabout
experience. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">CLA (USAID) and capacity development (primarily UNDP and
other UN agencies, DFID-UKAID, AusAID-AustralianAID), often used
interchangeably in the </span><span lang="EN-US"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">official development assistance
(ODA) context,</span> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">is the process (of
knowledge, skill, experience and attribute acquisition) through which
individuals, organizations and societies obtain, strengthen and maintain the competences
to set and achieve their own, time-bound development objectives. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">The walkabout management (and learning) model is a simple
one, and in workplaces where employees are within proximity to each other it
can be extraordinarily effective especially nowadays where there is an
over-reliance on information and communication technologies. Pundits argue that
its destined for a comeback as it trumps verbose, impersonal emails
meticulously prepared from behind closed doors; smashes the glass cubicle-siloed
work space and mentality and more importantly, is handy for </span><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">building rapport and cohesion among team members. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">A key disadvantage that
MBWA has however is the limit posed on it by geography. In the case of
decentralized offices and or a regional sphere of operations, its becomes particularly
challenging and conscious decisions and active practices need to be put in
place to promote this orientation. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">This article intends validating, based on a career of
practice, the notional concept of ‘walkabout’ yet also argues how integral it
is not only to good development <i>per se</i>
but also highly effective CLA/CD. There is no substitute for hands-on
management and it’s also widely accepted that intensive and participatory
engagement </span><span lang="EN-US"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">promotes </span>home-grown and often, spontaneous
development solutions. </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="font-size: small;">An
attempt is made to locate CLA through Walkabout on a continuum citing some of
the more and less typical development responses, largely dictated by prevailing
contextual factors. </span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-size: x-large;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-size: x-large;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg1UnmORs_lJCNP3zhQG5PgYAtIhmVZIIAh0xE-86CwHmqWpR6rS4lmXzoVz1HfeR_dycA3nPmv04NH8LU-tOrpwqagkP7jWVDJfdjcN76m8EKEzNiFVLaUBFRoX1rU7LqvmjeApDX6jJ2/s1600/ext.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="800" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg1UnmORs_lJCNP3zhQG5PgYAtIhmVZIIAh0xE-86CwHmqWpR6rS4lmXzoVz1HfeR_dycA3nPmv04NH8LU-tOrpwqagkP7jWVDJfdjcN76m8EKEzNiFVLaUBFRoX1rU7LqvmjeApDX6jJ2/s640/ext.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">A fair depiction of Collaborating, Learning and Adapting (CLA) Pic. Courtesy of U.S. Mission Uganda </span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Gated and Grounded in Fragile and
Conflict Affected States (FCAS) </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #222222; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #7f6000; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">As a development practitioner, most of my recent work has been in FCAS
(including South Sudan, Somalia, Afghanistan, Timor-Leste, Iraq) where walking
around and as a natural extension CLA and CD, is exceedingly difficult and
often nearly impossible. Typically, </span><span lang="EN-US">staff are sequestered is secure compounds, as a matter of necessity,
and seldom have direct access to development assistance partners – whether
government counterparts, CBOs/NGOs, other stakeholders and beneficiaries.
Occasional and hard-earned engagement is at great risk with parties having to
run a gauntlet, of high drama, on either side of the wire. Personal safety
aside, national counterparts are often reluctant to venture into secure,
international compounds because of the grave danger en route, general
inconvenience and occasional disrespect meted out on them by local and foreign
guard forces. Conversely, some practitioners welcome ‘getting out of the wire’
as a rare opportunity to see things as they really are. Most err on the side of
caution and prefer not to venture out at all even with all the security
arrangements in place. All are reminded by security details that individuals
are, ultimately, ‘responsible’ for their personal security and therefore
exercise this ‘call’ accordingly. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">Under these
circumstances, proximity is greatly reduced as is the ability to walkabout. Therefore,
working relationships are fleeting and national staff/counterparts ‘exist’ side-by-side
in two distinct, yet totally altered realities. Rapport, trust, face-time,
nurturing ‘holistic development’ through on-the-job mentoring and coaching which
are all vital social capital ingredients tend to be in short supply. Frequent
rest and recuperation (R&R) cycles and sporadic terror incidents add to the
climate of chaos and surrealness. Exceptions do exist and its not uncommon to
develop incredible bonds of friendship and mutual understanding under the most
trying circumstances. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMoK8qNw9YBaVrJwOyFxSUDcVC4ET6Wtt-jhyZNcFUUfhZRaxARzapHub-vZTDYS6d9UddFSBPN6uAVqYd-1mBapHdmJR8jqV-rCycJOy35MczP8PILMrP8mFY8K6fUqgvSUduSs0DFkjX/s1600/P1010904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMoK8qNw9YBaVrJwOyFxSUDcVC4ET6Wtt-jhyZNcFUUfhZRaxARzapHub-vZTDYS6d9UddFSBPN6uAVqYd-1mBapHdmJR8jqV-rCycJOy35MczP8PILMrP8mFY8K6fUqgvSUduSs0DFkjX/s640/P1010904.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Barbed wire, T-walls, barricades and birds .......</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><u><span lang="EN-US">Personal Tip:</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"> My mission
was, within reason, to spend as much contact time as possible with national
colleagues and government counterparts. I facilitated access to our secured
compounds and ‘personalized’ the entire experience by receiving and seeing them
off at the gate. Transport was always arranged, and pickups/drop-offs were
timely and where necessary, I would shield them from awkward moments with guard
forces. Refreshments at the local restaurant or coffee shop was a MUST DO and
an ordinarily dull meeting was turned into, what I hoped, an outing and
pleasant occasion. Conversely, what cemented working relations and won healthy
respect in short time, was the willingness to venture out of the protected
expat-bubble and visit government counterparts at their workplaces. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">A typical
development response in FCAS is to install a system of intermediate national staff,
almost always seasoned practitioners and advisors, to serve as an extension of their
international colleagues. Local advisors become the eyes, ears – sensory, atmospheric
and contextual receptors for the project, implementer and donor. This model,
used as a primary vehicle for CLA and CD, has worked well but the international
practitioner cadre bears an important responsibility in making it work seamlessly
and effectively. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">Local Trainers were
Trained through (ToTs) and then sent out into ministries and departments as
dedicated points of contact and to deliver on project mandates. Language was
invariably always a problem and most projects had an excellent team of in-house
translators to support the process of developing and transferring knowledge,
skills and attitudes. Whereas most local advisors were trained professionals
(engineers, doctors and lawyers) many lacked the ‘soft developmental skills and
experience’ to take on the role as practitioner consultant. This is where the
role of the international practitioner became so critical and ‘mismatches’ were
not uncommon, where former city managers, lawyers and other professionals were
thrust into development work with little or no context-specific
experience. Nevertheless, this yielded
‘mixed’ and interesting results. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><u><span lang="EN-US">Comment:</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"> The
‘process’ of understanding a dynamic local context, through and with
intermediate advisors, and then jointly developing appropriate responses is
central to a sustainable CLA/CD journey. Enough time must be allowed to
continuously review both ‘process’ and ‘content’ issues as therein lies learning,
adaptive management and fundamental change. Each country and unique context have
its ‘natural rhythm’ and heart beat that should and cannot be hurried along
easily. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">A decade or more
later there is a critical mass of experienced, local capacity in place, weaned off
from their international parentages that can continue this important work with
the ‘lightest touch’ of support and supervision. This remains an enduring
legacy of the helter-skelter development work done in the new (3<sup>rd</sup>) millennium
and which addresses, in part, sustainability issues raised by many cynics. Some recent Afghan insights - specially from southern Afghanistan (Helmand Province) are shared here at <a href="http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/2017/02/legacies-badlands-and-rough-diamonds.html" target="_blank">http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/2017/02/legacies-badlands-and-rough-diamonds.html</a>. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><u><span lang="EN-US">Comment:</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"> Challenges
posed by language and the absence of professional translation are sometimes
taken for granted – this can be disastrous for a project and its implementation
if not remedied swiftly. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><u><span lang="EN-US">Comment:</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"> Another,
often, taken for granted dimension in FCASs is the impact of unresolved
conflict/trauma on a society and more specifically on CLA/CD. Experiences from
Timor-Leste are shared <span class="MsoHyperlink"><a href="http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/2012/02/breaking-out-of-lethargy-and-siege.html">here</a>.
</span>This realization and the deeply associated complexities are a true
product of walkabout – venturing out of Dili and spending time in the
countryside with Timorese – both East and West. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiObe25oJVagLbIz_TFb-GmrL3dYAvdGpvTOf4rXexIWqbxacfWmcMFKJ-zYXO7AHwMbBFv72K8Kj4ER82HBPIc0SDubjIjNek7OTJ1TY-_cTdftygiiuvPzwi85F17UwKi2GBedEhzvuLH/s1600/P1020408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiObe25oJVagLbIz_TFb-GmrL3dYAvdGpvTOf4rXexIWqbxacfWmcMFKJ-zYXO7AHwMbBFv72K8Kj4ER82HBPIc0SDubjIjNek7OTJ1TY-_cTdftygiiuvPzwi85F17UwKi2GBedEhzvuLH/s640/P1020408.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>A 'twist' on Walkabout</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></h3>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></h2>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><span lang="EN-US">How to Entrench Support and
How Not To<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Embed, notwithstanding its strong militaristic connotations, is
probably the more commonly used term to take the walkabout concept to its
absolute, ‘ideal’ extreme. In general terms, CLA/CD often works best if you
physically co-locate oneself directly with your local project colleagues and or
government counterparts. This is permissible outside of FCAS situations and
where one would want to optimize contact/face-time. Typically, when commencing
on a new project, as a senior expat practitioner, one is reverently and
ceremoniously ushered to a plush office secluded from project machinations and
hullabaloo. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><u><span lang="EN-US">Personal Tip:</span></u></b><span lang="EN-US"> Immediately ditch the lofty and prized project ‘unreal estate’ in
favor of co-locating yourself in a ‘general office’ arrangement where you share
with middle-level colleagues/counterparts particularly general and personal
assistants/secretaries. In quick order, one will have your finger on the ‘true’
project pulse and open yourself to the trust, respect and cultural uniqueness
of national staff. You will also have so much more fun in a communal office
arrangement with never-ending learning.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">If your role is to provide strategic and institutional strengthening
support to the leadership of a government agency, then the ideal approach is to
‘embed’ yourself in proximity to the leadership – specifically in the office of
responsive and interested counterpart(s). Common leadership and project tendencies
are to often establish a ‘separate’ project office which makes reasonable sense
but does little to directly promote integration and CLA/CD. Project offices are
always better resourced and reinforces a ‘we-them’ orientation posing physical
as well as psycho-social barriers. Being fully ‘embedded’ does not negate the
need to actively engage in ‘walk and talk about practice.’ <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<b><u><span lang="EN-US">Comment:</span></u></b><span lang="EN-US"> Advocate high visibility/walkabout – spend time on the move
practicing the 3 Ls - across the organization’s rank and file. Drivers, guards –
security personnel, secretaries, cleaning – and auxiliary support staff ALL have
incredible insights to share and as part of a project team also have a vested interest
in the project – specifically its plans, progress and success. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Walking the Talk<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Platitudes and lip service, especially on the part of program/project
leadership, are not enough. A quick scan of development assistance websites and
associated job posts confirms that CLA/CD remain a topical and central andragogical
theme throughout the industry. It’s the understanding thereof and actual ‘doing’
that can prove to be challenging and somewhat confronting. As an adopted
approach it should be ‘practiced’ across project rank and file – in a wholly
integrated and systemic manner. ALL become ‘learners’ and ‘educators’ and no
one is exempt from ‘internalizing and living out’ this dynamic dualism. Institutional arrangements are critical to
underpin this ‘learning orientation’ that should seek to: </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US">Acknowledge and reward innovation
and excellence;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US">Support the taking of informed decisions and
calculated risks;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US">Design/implement plans and
M&E frameworks that are flexible and agile;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US">Consider ever-changing contexts
and incorporate them appropriately; <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US">Create time, space and opportunities
for ongoing dialogue and discussion on progress and learning (both analytical
and critical) through after action reviews, focus group feedback, reflection –
stock taking and other periodic sessions; <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US">Locate the leadership and
management cadre in such a position to ACTIVELY lead the process but equally,
to empower project staff through functional delegations;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US">Promote sound, open and participatory
management practices avoiding excessive centralization and micromanagement;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US">Install an informal system of
gurus or champions to support the orientation; <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US">Pivot learning (guide, support
and direct) around a strategic and dedicated learning position with an
important caveat - a shared-communal learning responsibility rather than of one
individual in that position; <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><b style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"></b></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvR88-8ZSPjIhR9DxPgY_vOmvlt9KwtvJ3I_xQ5AbyIM7VjpfHVnzEtiswwo0Yb1DPr2ZD6NzgpBG4atJRoQHP_zeGqIz3ucdj9cAkPQx6QgsmN1w8AohpypaHHYOyQGr2Wigf8ccL8ond/s1600/P1000682.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvR88-8ZSPjIhR9DxPgY_vOmvlt9KwtvJ3I_xQ5AbyIM7VjpfHVnzEtiswwo0Yb1DPr2ZD6NzgpBG4atJRoQHP_zeGqIz3ucdj9cAkPQx6QgsmN1w8AohpypaHHYOyQGr2Wigf8ccL8ond/s640/P1000682.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Discoveries and rare pleasures when going 'walkabout' - meeting and making new friends because you put yourself out there.</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="line-height: 115%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Regional Programs – Harder
and with Greater Complexity <o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">CLA, through
Walkabout, in a regional project context is challenging, illusive and often a
moving target. Multiple countries mean an exponential amplification of learning
with a plethora of learners and educators; convergent but often, divergent
contexts/positions; governments; regional entities; interested and affected
parties. It also implies some understanding of and consensus around: <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With whom do we
want to learn? (greater focus for impact)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">What do we want
to learn about? (urgent and important issues)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">How best to
learn within a given regional context? (an appreciation of learning styles,
methodologies and tools)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Further insights are provided below.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; margin: 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<i><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Lingua francas, colonial legacies, multi-culturalism and
tribalism </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Action research
indicates that people’s perceptions of and responses to social change (practicing
collaboration, learning and adaptation in project-based contexts) are likely to
be situation specific and grounded in location-based histories, social networks,
cultural norms and institutional arrangements (Paschen and Ison, 2014). They
also involve a variety of stakeholders at all societal levels. This implies, firstly,
bridging this important ‘socio-cultural divide’ that is often taken for
granted. This can only be done by ‘old-fashioned’ communication and engagement
(talking the talk). Failure to do this can and does pose barriers to learning
and collaboration. To encourage a better
and greater socio-cultural appreciation of the varied perspectives that exist
across a transdisciplinary knowledge network, stakeholders should also cross-learn
about the perspectives of fellow stakeholders in their specific context or in
this case, geographic region. A departure point is to learn about each other’s
cultures and histories; existing knowledge, skills and attitudes; and prevailing
realities. An off-the-shelf solution from elsewhere or a totally different
development paradigm that is re-engineered or retrofitted is problematic and
bound to fail. Cross-learning and contextual appreciation presupposes the time,
openness, willingness and opportunities to do so to the mutual benefit of all
significant parties. Even if these fundamental foundations are in place,
practitioners need to remain sensitive and hyper-vigilant as there is ‘so much
more’ lost in translation than language and literal meaning. <b><o:p></o:p></b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; margin: 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<i><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Geo-political
context, regional power and economic blocs </span><span style="background-color: white;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></i></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; margin: 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Most
regional ‘governing’ blocs or communities are put in place to fast-track economic
growth, social progress, sustainable development and cultural advancement. A common
scenario may be multiple but decentralized governing blocs operating out of
different locations in a vast geographic region, with diverse but equally overlapping
mandates where the minnow(s) is ultimately subordinate to one supra-bloc. A
complex operating environment fraught with power dynamics, pecking orders and
countless protocols. A typical project or development response is to embed bodies
within the blocs with less of an emphasis on roles, responsibilities and
professional competencies. Regional walkabout or travel can be demanding, circuitous
and time consuming but nevertheless critical. Under these circumstances
teamwork becomes more important than ever. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; margin: 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; margin: 6pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Knowledge capture and dissemination <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As
discussed under the heading <i>Walking the
Talk,</i> the design and implementation approach should be precise and unequivocal.
Teams and all members therein ‘learn by doing’ and it should be a requirement
that all play an active role in this regard. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Concluding thoughts</span></span></b></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">CLA, whether planned/formalized and or purely opportunistic/spontaneous,
is more often intuitive and about sensing and feeling one’s way through
situations. Some people are blessed with this orientation and inner learning
voice – others are not. Organizations and projects are certainly not – more
reason for leaders and management to critically consider whether ‘business as usual’
is really an option – or perhaps not. Its only through walkabout and experience
that one can begin to build a ‘learning repertoire’ and then affect some measure
of change. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In my experience, the smallest is enough:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">‘I'm happy to inform you that as of this week, I'm
now the XXXX Officer. This wouldn't have been possible without all the effort
you put into making sure that the project recognized my efforts. I can't
appreciate your persistence, support, and guidance over the past year enough.
Thank you so much………’</span><br clear="all" />
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-53007186890681207982017-02-12T04:58:00.004-08:002022-02-15T07:19:38.720-08:00Legacies, Badlands and Rough Diamonds<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;">Untold, development assistance, anecdotes from Lashkar Gah - Helmand Province: Southern Afghanistan</span></h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCjK4LG2ofKtwwV8ErXKP0atUHRl3zKnlmvvdEUIf7ukn73H4padMF0zeXmy5dzp0bRkY5JFsihbr3cinH_iCIxNZRrbSaHB0dfUIJgoujolVTySV4hKG9j4LjzGZEWVA3LViyxDl1D3c/s1600/images2FQIIFPP.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCjK4LG2ofKtwwV8ErXKP0atUHRl3zKnlmvvdEUIf7ukn73H4padMF0zeXmy5dzp0bRkY5JFsihbr3cinH_iCIxNZRrbSaHB0dfUIJgoujolVTySV4hKG9j4LjzGZEWVA3LViyxDl1D3c/s320/images2FQIIFPP.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><strong>Disputed territory, towns, borders and key installations in southern Afghanistan <span style="font-size: x-small;">Courtesy of the Independent newspaper</span></strong> </span></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">In anticipation of the draw down by </span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">International
Security Assistance Forces (ISAF)</span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">
and subsequent closure of Camps Bastion (British) and Leatherneck (American) in
2014, core development partners were adamant that gains, however small, should
be both protected and sustained in partnership with the incumbent Afghan
Provincial Government. The Helmand Provincial and Reconstruction Team (PRT),
initially located in Lashkar Gah and then subsequently at Bastion, was funded
by the troika of British, Danish and Estonia governments closed down well in
advance of the military scale down. Collectively, they turned towards <em>the last man standing</em> in the form of the
enduring UN agencies, specifically the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), as part of a potential exit strategy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">An exploratory Mission in 2013 saw an
integrated UNDP and DANIDA – Danish International Development Agency <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>team visit Camp Bastion, the Lashkar Gah-based
PRT<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and the Provincial Governor’s office
with the express purpose of designing a ‘stop-gap’ transition from purely c</span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">ivil–military
relations (Civ-Mil or CMR) to civilian-development relations. Much of the
initial design and subsequent roll-out was carried out under the sage guidance
of Renaud Meyer, UNDP Afghanistan Deputy Country Director together with a
multidisciplinary programme team.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyO2_Gka9MI_l-Vpn95H2kF5_8xD7QUpUiVNECk3rC3Jz_q_Vuo-5DfnVb04YIxGV7clVFrfcJM3K6UZmy7jgOjZmclyz8pua_gOgbIhNVybYhUaDeCM4B_nbA7jwwGrpkMVreJoCKjeyU/s1600/P1050312.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyO2_Gka9MI_l-Vpn95H2kF5_8xD7QUpUiVNECk3rC3Jz_q_Vuo-5DfnVb04YIxGV7clVFrfcJM3K6UZmy7jgOjZmclyz8pua_gOgbIhNVybYhUaDeCM4B_nbA7jwwGrpkMVreJoCKjeyU/s400/P1050312.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><strong>Design team members, representing UNDP and DANIDA, on arrival in Lashkar Gah in 2013</strong></span></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">At the pinnacle
of Afghan-ISAF Civ-Mil relations, researchers from the Overseas Development
Institute argued that 'the belief that development and reconstruction activities
are central to security'...'was a central component of western involvement' and
that this has been 'highly contentious among aid agencies, perhaps nowhere more
so than Afghanistan.' Their April 2013 paper concluded with the following key lessons
learned: </span></div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Stabilisation
(peace and security) approaches are likely to continue to present challenges to
the aid community’s ability to act according to humanitarian principles in fragile
and conflict affected states (FCAS), and post-conflict environments.
Experiences in Afghanistan highlight significant tension, if not outright conflict,
between stabilisation and internationally recognised guidelines and principles
governing civil–military collaboration.</span></div>
</li>
</ul>
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<li><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Civil–military engagement
was noticeably more effective when it was entrenched in International
Humanitarian Law and logical reasoning, as with advocacy focused on reducing
or 'doing no-harm' to civilians.</span></div>
</li>
</ul>
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<li><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Aid agencies need
to invest more in capacity and training for engaging in civil–military dialogue
and, together with donors, seek to generate more objective evidence on the
impact of stabilisation approaches.</span></div>
</li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuMo69rJn_gjZnuinwpt3O-m-Gylqor-EGoUYjWoiU1WrsvG5FMqI3oY8sy7X7k15I15f4TygSL6bnT6cZoO8c-n9WjjWDeL57bwlWdJu_CcBl7-SHS6HOYqfGWQx_OWSNhBh8BcTIuSE7/s1600/Hel9.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuMo69rJn_gjZnuinwpt3O-m-Gylqor-EGoUYjWoiU1WrsvG5FMqI3oY8sy7X7k15I15f4TygSL6bnT6cZoO8c-n9WjjWDeL57bwlWdJu_CcBl7-SHS6HOYqfGWQx_OWSNhBh8BcTIuSE7/s640/Hel9.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><strong>Signs of those Times - Senior Provincial Government officials - Helmand</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYsYsoJHgG0pSYbTPx_dKzuv49xufSBt0IG2pFpw_vfEA56ybw37sQc_6wjS7NLRd5-mj0SqTihS3Ea_aeZds9fQFV6IF44Du42-4jNx2v1fuwg_z8RRxAKaumQug3l-pwrIkGDob38jcD/s1600/Hel8.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYsYsoJHgG0pSYbTPx_dKzuv49xufSBt0IG2pFpw_vfEA56ybw37sQc_6wjS7NLRd5-mj0SqTihS3Ea_aeZds9fQFV6IF44Du42-4jNx2v1fuwg_z8RRxAKaumQug3l-pwrIkGDob38jcD/s400/Hel8.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Lashkar Gah - location of the PRT - a variable 'oasis' tendered by Helmandi's with green fingers </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="line-height: 115%;">Shoring up previous
gains in the province was driven primarily by broad-based ‘legacy motivations’
- the immense human and material resource sacrifices and contributions made by
ISAF and international community spanning well over a decade. </span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="line-height: 115%;">The combined Civ-Mil machinery
and mechanisms were highly impressive even though offensive operations in the
province had largely ceased and been replaced (2013/14) by direct support to
the Afghan National Army (ANA).</span></div>
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">It’s important to note that both US and British
forces sustained the highest ever loses in one province, Helmand, of
Afghanistan.<b><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"> </span></b></span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="color: #281e1e; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Combat operations in Afghanistan resulted in the deaths of British
456 servicemen and women, with coalition losses in excess of 3,000 personnel,
many in Helmand Province, dating back to initial deployments in October 2001. Furthermore,
Camp Bastion cost £50m to fully build in 2006 and £300m to destroy it
again eight years later.</span> </span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">The total cost to British taxpayers of setting up and
running the camp was £20billion. Contributions from the American war chest, to
their own Camp Leatherneck and shared infrastructure at Bastion, are bound to
be equally staggering. </span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: small;">
</span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="font-size: 11pt;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><strong>Between 2005 & October 2014 it was the logistics hub for ISAF operations. It was capable of accommodating over
32,000 people. Built by the British Army it was the largest
overseas military camp built since WW2</strong></span>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: small;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifWwwcYKIh7A6abR1nYgytTuK9F3p3ecq_TMt_2OIefck4D76_4FZ89dhJv-PYJT-rGFVOxhJnNPfMUokMN4O5SkU-l1zuwqynDucm3jfy0iKqwWe0mOO_aRSfkOW5HECJAJN4ARIP-q4N/s1600/Bastion+slide+pic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></a><br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: small;">
</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">According
to SIGAR’s 34<sup>th</sup> quarterly report – January 2017 (Special Inspector
General for Afghanistan Reconstruction) since 2002 the US Congress has
appropriated more than $117 billion for Afghanistan’s reconstruction. It is the
largest expenditure to rebuild a single country in US history and the tab will
continue to run at approximately $5 billion per year up to including 2020. <span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="mso-fareast-font-family: CenturyStd-Book;">Even
though more than half of these reconstruction dollars have gone toward building,
equipping, training, and sustaining the Afghan National Defence and Security
Forces (ANDSF), they remain largely ineffectual at securing all of Afghanistan and have
lost significant territory to a mixed insurgency. As at August 2016, it was reported
that only 63% of the country’s districts were under Afghan government control
or sway - <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>an effective reduction from the
72% as of November 2015.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: small;">
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-size: small;">“Afghanistan is far from perfect, and
it will take sustained engagement and effort in the years ahead to protect the
progress we’ve made. We have invested significant blood and treasure in
Afghanistan’s future, and we must continue to support the Afghan people as they
work to build a secure and peaceful future in the months and years ahead.”</span></blockquote>
<o:p><span style="font-size: small;"></span></o:p><br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span><br /><span style="font-size: small;">
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span><i><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif""> Secretary John Kerry</span></i></span><br />
</div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: small;">
</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Often described
as the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Badlands</i> of Afghanistan,
Helmand province is </span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">roughly
half the area of England. The area is largely uninhabitable consisting of
hostile mountainous and desert areas interspaced with fertile river valleys and
flood plains where agriculture is the mainstay socio-economic activity. It's estimated that of the total land area of Afghanistan only 12% is suitable for agriculture. Prior to
the arrival of ISAF, three main groups consisting of tribal warlords, Taliban leaders
and drug traffickers mostly held sway throughout the province with any form of
governance (provincial or district) acquiescing and or playing second fiddle to
the trio.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="font-size: small;"><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">The imaginary, shifting and porous border with Pakistan in the south has
also perpetuated this state of apparent ‘lawlessness’ over countless decades. Arguably,
this situation does not quite fit our contemporary and Western definitions of
democracy, sovereignty and good governance but this has been the ‘law’ of this geopolitical
region for centuries – even when carved up into neat, convenient parcels of land. Suffice
to say the border dispute between Afghanistan and Pakistan, in the form of the
imposed and highly divisive Durand Line, remains as highly contested as ever. In
the words of Hamid Karzai, former President of Afghanistan, ‘</span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">A line of
hatred that raised a wall between the two brothers.</span></span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif""><span style="font-size: small;">’</span> </span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">The famous Kajaki Dam with its earthen wall & other works - centre of the then Helmand River Valley Authority and now </span><span face=""centurystd-book" , "serif"" style="mso-bidi-font-family: CenturyStd-Book;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="font-size: small;">Da
Afghanistan Breshna Sherkat<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="font-size: small;">
(DABS) Afghanistan's local electricity utility (1950 - to date). </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pic: David Goldman AP</span></span></strong></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Another key ‘legacy’
consideration is a war of different sorts – that against opium production
although both proved to be inextricably linked. Eighty to ninety percent of the world’s non-pharmaceutical-grade opium is produced in Afghanistan and Helmand has long been the centre of this. Early on in the Afghan campaign the UK army was sent to the province with the aim of stopping this illegal trade. Between 2002 and 2013 the amount of land given over to opium production rose from just under 75,000 hectares to 209,000 hectares – more than enough to exceed global demand. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">The cultivation and trafficking of illicit drugs also puts the entire U.S. investment in the reconstruction of Afghanistan at risk. Although the United States has committed more than $8.5 billion to counter-narcotics efforts in Afghanistan, <span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: small;">farmers are growing more opium than ever with gains all but reversed including poppy eradication which has fallen at the wayside almost completely. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span>“Drugs have direct links with corruption, terrorism and development. Without tackling [the] drug problem and illicit economy, in general, it will not be possible to solve other problems facing Afghanistan.”</span></span></blockquote>
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<i><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif""><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"> Andrey Avetisyan, Regional Representative of the United</span></span></i></div>
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<i><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif""><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"> Nations Office on Drugs and Crime </span></span></i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Bost Airport - Lashkar Gah upgraded by USAID in 2008 & probably now the only remaining functional airstrip in Helmand Province. In 2014 it was a tenuous lifeline to infrequent return UN flights to Kabul</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlRgaZw8ZvTX36k7wp87Qrwy1VNT0rapE2jN4hyLHtza3Tl6V2SYEDcWvjQ2juLsLboDsE74qppQqQ96qhv2irz3KZt93kSBk4ehf3zh623cbAknONiITkhD7P0lSLf3rAu1vNP3VIjj9X/s1600/34513621_kajaki_391235c.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlRgaZw8ZvTX36k7wp87Qrwy1VNT0rapE2jN4hyLHtza3Tl6V2SYEDcWvjQ2juLsLboDsE74qppQqQ96qhv2irz3KZt93kSBk4ehf3zh623cbAknONiITkhD7P0lSLf3rAu1vNP3VIjj9X/s640/34513621_kajaki_391235c.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">A downstream view of the Kajaki Dam - it's conceivable that more has been sacrificed for this key installation than any other in recent times <span style="font-size: x-small;">Pic David Goldman AP</span></span></strong></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif""><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="font-size: small;">Sangin, a former Taliban stronghold central to the extremist group’s opium trade, was the scene of fierce fighting during the Afghan campaign, with more than 100 British troops dying in and around the town between 2006 and 2010. <span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="mso-fareast-font-family: CenturyStd-Book;">In a December 2, 2016 press briefing, General Nicholson reported the ANDSF repelled eight Taliban attempts to seize key cities during 2016—three times in Kunduz; twice in Lashkar Gar, Helmand; twice in Tarin Kowt, Uruzgan; and Farah City. On October 6, 2016 </span></span></span></span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="mso-fareast-font-family: CenturyStd-Book;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">the ANDSF held steadfast against four simultaneous attacks on different cities. More than 2,000 members of the Afghan security forces were killed fighting in Helmand in 2016 and there are reports of a large number of soldiers and police deserting their posts. Insurgency efforts generally ebb and flow according to a timeless timetable - once determined by seasonal offensives (especially spring and summer) but now thrown awry by changing weather patterns, bravado and the whims of regional commanders. However, there is an age old argument in Afghanistan that there is one key element that any insurgency - especially the Taliban has at it's disposal and that is TIME</span>. </span></span> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipa2qQ8kUSX2ntZ5y27VdKBPyQ4xue-BngymbbF-ktQmcumQrsycz6GSZYK9d9xgsAqF05QgGcU9tgXBX9CCQoMokv4rbBu45O4zUDxO5N44MADRUCUr41kaMqQ3KFtnctDsuq77L12HCo/s1600/P1060123.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipa2qQ8kUSX2ntZ5y27VdKBPyQ4xue-BngymbbF-ktQmcumQrsycz6GSZYK9d9xgsAqF05QgGcU9tgXBX9CCQoMokv4rbBu45O4zUDxO5N44MADRUCUr41kaMqQ3KFtnctDsuq77L12HCo/s400/P1060123.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">The launch of the UNDP Helmand Provincial office in 2014</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif""><p style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">It’s against this backdrop that ‘two expendable Aussies’ found themselves at the centre of this pioneering Civ-Mil transition and UN Afghanistan Regionalization Strategy – displaced to the ‘Badlands’ of southern Afghanistan. Ironically, they were ‘hosted’ in the secured Governor’s compound - the legacy of a previous US-Afghan misadventure often referred to as Little America. The fascinating account of the </span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">Helmand River Valley Irrigation Scheme (1948 – 1978) is captured in </span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Rajiv Chandrasekaran’s book entitled Little America: The War within the War for Afghanistan</span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">. Implemented primarily by the Helmand Valley Authority, the collaborative effort between US-Afghan Governments entailed utilization of American engineering and construction expertise to bring the Helmand region and greater southern Afghanistan irrigation, hydroelectric power and modern roads to transport its latent agricultural potential to markets. Incorporating the construction of the Kajaki Dam and an elaborate irrigation canal network, the entire intervention followed 'classic development' approaches until rudely interrupted by the Soviet invasion in 1979.<br /></span></span></span></p><p> </p><p></p>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">A legacy of Little America - the Helmand River Valley Authority currently part of the Governor's compound with original country club - recreational facilities in a state of disrepair</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWQQUqH0cF_eAvLy6QshBu-ZauQ1tFhB16zg7pVSyy9IIKkd0zohlr_HBFHmvd0VO6YCnRI5TgXu1BBGL6TQHeZlkPN3bY1XN314Pxrpn7dLITmsLvALrgjL-NUiERCY5TWVo4FTiiXb8F/s1600/Helmand1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWQQUqH0cF_eAvLy6QshBu-ZauQ1tFhB16zg7pVSyy9IIKkd0zohlr_HBFHmvd0VO6YCnRI5TgXu1BBGL6TQHeZlkPN3bY1XN314Pxrpn7dLITmsLvALrgjL-NUiERCY5TWVo4FTiiXb8F/s400/Helmand1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">A sanger - ANA observation post on the banks of the Helmand River guarding the approaches to the Governor's compound & the town of Lashkar Gah. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Kevin (affectionately dubbed 007 as part of his ‘man of mystery’ mantle; after his namesake and former Aussie PM Kevin Rudd and by ‘association’ therefore lumped in with a string of other highly flamboyant and reputable <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Kevs</i>) was responsible for setting up and running regional operations within the provincial capital. Once safely ensconced in our postage stamp-sized compound, within the Governor’s bigger compound, Kev warmed to his many managerial tasks but more specifically to his role of Keeper the UN-Inn. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over several months he hosted visiting delegations from within the broader UN agency family and within no time, flying the UNDP flag, the office became a critical central point of contact (POC) and staging point for ready and direct access to Governor Naaem Baloch and his staff; conducting rapid assessments, feasibility studies and programme/project evaluations spanning critical <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">ad hoc</i> needs and sectors including humanitarian assistance – emergency shelter and feeding; health - disease surveillance and immunization programmes. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><strong>Larger than life Kevin 007 - UN-Inn Keeper, </strong></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;"><strong>Helmand Regional Manager and Chief Horticulturalist and Groundskeeper</strong></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">A portrait of character and commitment - key members of staff</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Displacement of civilian populations, from rural districts, was on the rise as the Taliban began to flex their muscles and reclaim the province as their own. Continued implementation of existing programme and project activities was also supported via relevant Afghan national staff that ‘managed’ their portfolios in collaboration with provincial government counterparts and other stakeholders. The UN-Inn was generally a hive of activity generating much interest from our compound neighbours which often included VIPs, Governor Naeem Baloch himself and other high value targets that frequented the Governor’s guesthouse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">The former Helmand Provincial Governor Naeem Baloch, colourful and controversial, flanked by the 'two expendables.' The picture background proves to be equally revealing.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">The Blogger and Rafeeque who later replaced Kevin as the UNDP Regional Manager: Helmand </span></strong><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">(lower left) entertaining VIPs at the UN-Inn</span></strong></td></tr>
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</span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">My strategic support role was to coordinate and ‘tie’ the component parts of Regionalization Strategy and Civ-Mil transition together providing measures of coherence, consistency and continuity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remnants of the Civ-Mil establishment (post-draw down) moved to Kandahar and one of my important tasks was to ‘<span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">triangulate’, between the strategic centres of Kandahar and Kabul in developing and supporting Lashkar Gah at the periphery. This triangulation entailed ongoing liaison and information sharing with key partners including: UK-AID DFID, DANIDA, USAID, US Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) - US/UK civilian-military in southern Afghanistan. This aspect of my role was particularly satisfying and insightful, providing fascinating ‘snapshots’ of the exceedingly turbulent region past, present and, perhaps, future. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">All in the UN Agency Family - Laurance from WHO enjoys UNDP Afghanistan hospitality at the Lashkar Gah UN Inn. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><strong>The UNDP Helmand Provincial Team at their work stations - UN Inn - Governor's compound Lashkar Gah</strong></span> </span></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Without any template or prior experience as such, this was not only ground-breaking but ‘fly by the seat of your pants’ type stuff. Civ-Mil relations exposure, with occasional visits to Camps Bastion and Leatherneck, and close collaboration with FCO were notable assignment highlights. An equally important ‘in-house’ task was to promote aid effectiveness and harmonization across the suite of UNDP programs and projects operating in Helmand province and southern Afghanistan. This included diverse projects and thematic areas such as democratic/local governance; gender equity; justice and human rights and small infrastructure projects. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Yet another US-Afghan 'Little America' legacy - the immaculate gardens adjoining the Governor's guesthouse and home overlooking the Helmand River</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">General layout of our compound - the main building left was a traditional Helmandi house & containerized accommodation was provided for our Ghurkha protection force & local Afghan staff </span></strong></td></tr>
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Throughout our assignment, staff security considerations were key to UNDP Kabul and Kevin had at his disposal a respectable dozen or more personnel consisting of a specifically contracted and specialized Ghurkha force protection unit and our own UNDP national security advisors and drivers. Local Afghan National Police secured our immediate compound gate and perimeter and in spite of occasional security incidents in the town, we were 'reassured' by senior provincial government counterparts that the Governor's compound was strictly 'off limits' as a strategic target, protected by a seemingly 'unwritten truce' and or 'invisible' hand. This was rather bizarre as it was common practice, by the Taliban insurgency country-wide, to target government installations especially the seats of provincial/district power. Since the bulk of our Afghan staff were 'imported', due to transfers or project staff realignments, from Kabul and Mazar this posed a direct personal threat to them. The likelihood that local townsfolk would immediately identify them as outsiders was considered relatively high. As a matter of necessity 'imports' were housed in our compound and only occasionally ventured out to mix freely with the local populace. Our handful of local Helmandi staff also kept a low profile, often working from the safety of their homes and constantly changing their pattern of work visits to the Governor's compound.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">A rare outing to the range with our Ghurkha, Afghan National Police and Army protection units </span></strong></td></tr>
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A unique feature of these imposed security arrangements is that as an office of diverse UNDP colleagues we soon became a very close and cohesive team. As expatriate staff Kevin and I were 'immersed' in a 'total Afghan' - specifically Helmandi cultural experience. As a 'captive collective,' work and leisure time blurred seamlessly into one where we all lived the 'local reality' without exception. Our welfare and lives were in the hands of our Afghan colleagues, friends and hosts. Fuelled by an endless cocktail of nicotine and caffeine Kevin kept everything and one in check including esteemed Governor Naeem Baloch. With the 'fruitful era of development assistance' (and all associated material benefits) rapidly on the wane, our Governor was eager to eke out any last support for his office and provincial administration. <br />
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Sadly,Kevin moved on after several months and was replaced by Rafeeque seconded from the UNDP Nepal office. Rafeeque was a devote Muslim and a very able and capable replacement - operations hardly skipped a beat. Kevin's departure changed the team dynamic considerably as the team had warmed to his 'no worries mate' - roguish Aussie approach. I missed the copious amounts of excellent 'free' coffee occasionally accompanied by an equally excellent French cognac. Kevin had a way with words and staff that was certainly missed!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Rafeeque (top end of the pic in white) leading one of our countless meal times together which was my personal highlight of the day. The fellowship and camaraderie was exceptional and unsurpassed.</span></strong></td></tr>
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Throughout our time together as the UNDP Helmand Regional team we strictly observed and celebrated both Afghan and Nepalese tradition, custom and significant events including Mawlid al-Nabi, Eid al-Fitr, Eid al-Adha, Dashain led inspirationally by Rafeeque and Ghurkha Commander Rana. In addition to his role as Regional Manager, Rafeeque played a vital spiritual role providing guidance and counsel to many of our young Afghan men that were not resident Helmandi's and therefore found themselves a considerable distance from family and support structures. Commander Rana and his fiercely proud and professional Ghurkhas were also an absolute revelation! I recall many occasions, in the dead of night when thoughts and deep-seated insecurities run amok, being lulled back to a peaceful and untroubled sleep by the rhythmic pacing of our 'guardian Ghurkhas' as they dutifully stood guard over our slumbering household. In retrospect, I often feel that I personally short-changed Commander Rana and his men in the gratitude and praise department, as much as I'd like to believe that was not the case. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">A fusion of Afghan-Nepalese cuisine prepared by Commander Rana and his men - special moments and memories </span></strong></td></tr>
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Without wishing to comment too much on whether or not we succeeded with our assignment there are many vivid memories, worth sharing, that deserve flight and fantasy including:</div>
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<li>The sheer contrast between urban Kabul city and rural Lashkar Gah town dwelling specifically air quality and noise pollution;</li>
<li>Incredible and unfathomable peace and solitude experienced yet even in the wild and very dangerous southern Afghanistan;</li>
<li>An acute awareness of the incredible sacrifices made by so many - past, present and future </li>
<li>Helmand's moderate and more liveable climate;</li>
<li>Summer fruits - the world's best pomegranates;</li>
<li>Communal living and the sheer pleasure of experiencing true Afghan friendship and hospitality;</li>
<li>Cultural appreciation and absolute admiration - for the people of both Afghanistan and Nepal;</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Nights were often slow and very long especially when away from home and the simplest pleasures shared within the context of our 'local reality' built incredible friendship bonds</span></strong><br />
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A lesser known fact related to Helmand Province - specifically Lashkar Gah and Bost is the immense historical and archaeological significance of the area. This growing awareness and concerns around degradation or complete destruction of national or potentially World Heritage Sites of Archaeological Significance culminated in the Lashkari Bazaar Cultural Exhibition Initiative (LBCEI). Conceived in collaboration with colleagues from UNESCO and the French Embassy and Cultural Institute (DAFA), the overriding philosophy behind the initiative was to create a climate of hope and rejuvenation as well as position and put the Province of Helmand and the country generally, back on the international map for lesser known, more hierarchical and aspirational reasons of education, science and culture. The intention was to partner closely with both the national <span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Government of the
Islamic Republic of Afghanistan (GoIRA) and the Helmand Provincial Government on the initiative. </span></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">At the centre-piece of
purportedly the greatest Empire in the East, the original city of Bost was
first occupied by Muslim conquerors around 661 A.D. and went on to prosper as
the winter capital of the ruling Ghaznavids from the 11<span style="font-size: small;"><sup>th</sup> to mid-12<sup>th</sup>
Century. The city was burned and looted in 1151 by the Ghorids and then
completely demolished by Genghis Khan in 1220. </span></span></span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">By
the late 16<span style="font-size: small;"><sup>th</sup> Century the city and the region was governed by the
Safavid dynasty. It became part of the Afghan Hotaki Empire in 1709. It was
invaded by the Afsharid forces in 1738 on their way to Kandahar. By 1747 it
became part of the Durrani Empire or modern Afghanistan. The British arrived in
or about 1840 during the First Anglo-Afghan War but left a year later in
disarray. The city was used by Ayub Khan in the Second Anglo-Afghan War until
1880 when the British helped to return it to Abdur Rahman Khan. It remained
peaceful for the next 100 years. The ruins of the Ghaznavid palaces, gardens,
mansions and bazaar still stand along the Helmand River, even though the city
of Bost and its outlying communities were torched in successive centuries by
the Ghorids, Mongols and Timurids respectively.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">The Arch of Bust - on record the best preserved Ghurid-era archaeological remnant dating back to the 12th century south of the inner moat of the Citadel of Bust - Helmand Province </span></strong></td></tr>
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</span><span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">It was against
this backdrop that the partners (French Embassy, DAFA, UNDP, UNESCO) sharing an illustrious albeit relatively short-lived history in
Afghanistan felt that it was vitally important, as part of their
respective mandates, to jointly profile, generate significant awareness and
appreciation of the Lashkari Bazaar’s unique historical, cultural and
socio-economic attributes. Historical records, photographs, location maps, and scale models of selective palaces/mansions and the bazaar itself would form the basis for a dynamic and interactive exhibition. The plan was to exhibit in Kabul and Lashkar Gah initially and then take it internationally based on public interest and reviews. National pride and nation-building were viewed as central to
this initiative and other positive, potential spin-offs would include downstream
archaeological research and restoration; environment rehabilitation; creation of
rural livelihood opportunities and a nursery for cultural tourism.</span></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Unfortunately, the initiative did not proceed beyond conceptualization but the remnants of the Lashkari Bazaar remain, facing increasing deterioration and destruction especially from ongoing scouring and erosion of the river banks and in recent years, actual occupation of the archaeological ruins by Helmandi's displaced by fighting between the ANDSF and Taliban in the outlying districts.</span></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">In the broader context of a modern Afghanistan grappling with innumerable challenges this appears to be a rather superfluous and extravagant initiative but it does connect the present with Afghanistan's incredibly rich past - a truly Afghan legacy well worth celebrating in it's own right! </span></span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">During my privileged assignment characterized by a precipitous learning curve; countless WOW experiences and insights and fiercely intense working relationships I was also able to track - chronologically and developmentally - the passage of recent Afghan history through the Little America initiative in Helmand Province (approximately 1948 to 2017). I sat in on US Army Corps of Engineers briefings where the task and burden of Kajaki Dam operations and maintenance (O&M) including the installation of the third and final turbine (Unit 2) was finally passed from international to local contractors. The Kajaki Dam chapter is all but closed, with a sequel perhaps waiting in the wings, where full responsibility for the key installation is set to be assumed by Da Afghanistan Breshna Sherkat (DABS) with effect from April 2017. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Icing on the cake! With a wicked sense of humour our team would often find a reason to celebrate. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">Towards
the end of our assignment there was a marked upsurge in security incidents –
the leisurely drive through the town to Bost airport now became a gauntlet run;
assassination attempts on senior Provincial Government officials especially
ANDSF personnel and suicide bombings of key government infrastructure became
the norm – especially within the confines of Lashkar Gah. Most of the
surrounding countryside was now under Taliban control and they often brought
their fight to the town’s outskirts where pitched, small arms fire fights and battles with the Afghan
National Police and Army were audible from the Governor’s compound. The ISAF vacuum had simply been filled!</span><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "sans-serif"">This was and is still, now years later, 'a sobering and surreal reality' to reflect upon. Whereas the rational for our assignment still holds very true - good development and the delivery of programme and project activities/services are best performed directly, in closest proximity to communities and in collaboration with sub-national government entities (provincial/district), the rapidly changing context in Afghanistan put paid to a pioneering, best-intentioned initiative that was so captivating and all consuming at the time. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-87275460667838161752016-05-14T23:24:00.000-07:002016-06-04T02:26:47.251-07:00A Bookcase of Memories<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>A daughter is one of the most beautiful gifts this world
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Laurel Atherton</b></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0hMqhLxeHEQ6ZknDlqLhGb9FfkgSAJVDkp24d8cIEfPQC-pW8_xCFoKWaYNkr98tv3S27B4ktligPHzTCplHGYOxDso_V9ExQUt4IFM7j35j3sJVIz4NddKe9pwxtFSU__7Lwkl84kxzF/s1600/father-carrying-daughter+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0hMqhLxeHEQ6ZknDlqLhGb9FfkgSAJVDkp24d8cIEfPQC-pW8_xCFoKWaYNkr98tv3S27B4ktligPHzTCplHGYOxDso_V9ExQUt4IFM7j35j3sJVIz4NddKe9pwxtFSU__7Lwkl84kxzF/s400/father-carrying-daughter+%25282%2529.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Two decades + 1 year - from <span style="line-height: 18.4px;"> </span><span style="line-height: 18.4px;">an exuberantly wild, long-limbed topless tomboy to a mature, confident and driven young professional woman. Where did the in-between years go?</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;">Fathers and their daughters, even more so when
they are the first born, are ‘coalesced and conglomerated’ into an almost
indescribable and inseparable bond. At the tender age of twenty one (21), a
milestone tinged with poignancy and parental reflection, there are just as many
unanswered questions, unfounded fears and absurd anxieties as there were a new life
and time ago! </span></span></span><br />
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"> An extract from a previous blog post entitled: More M&Ms - Mutterings and Musings – August / September 2010 http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/2011/03/more-m-mutterings-and-musings-august.html </span></span></span><i><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; text-align: left;">With my new eyes, acutely attuned ears, my sensory overhaul, I feel the way that a condemned man might feel on receiving a last minute stay of execution. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; text-align: left;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; text-align: left;">It’s no wonder that I’ve experienced some intensely emotional moments recently, on my leave particularly in relation to my own immediate family and friends. I’ve witnessed Frances blossom into a versatile, more confident and very capable adolescent reveling in sociable, team-based activities. Giving her all, whether as part of her school flute ensemble or club netball team. Stunned at how with nonchalant ease, steely composure and pin point shooting accuracy she could singularly, almost, dismantle her opposition in their Grand Netball final after the scores were deadlocked with precious minutes remaining. With no experience to draw on … where did this ability come from?? Perhaps the exuberance of youth, African resilience (</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; text-align: left;">vasbyt</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; text-align: left;">) or Aussie bravado / fighting spirit or perhaps it has a closer genetic home? I seem to be a stranger to this person, mind and personality that has been developing at the centre of our family life.</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicQWY6WIFTbl4S45ApTiEFSAZumRAIzGbWJ8iDTohtENtyWR0FVOUrn5KCurMP1axYnuDc9reoeb64X7cc_eBDzQz2RwyVoDuznWoD5rg2KHo8-kEzMlia4KNk0rkN6Nmf7_zYXrG0tqP/s1600/DD4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicQWY6WIFTbl4S45ApTiEFSAZumRAIzGbWJ8iDTohtENtyWR0FVOUrn5KCurMP1axYnuDc9reoeb64X7cc_eBDzQz2RwyVoDuznWoD5rg2KHo8-kEzMlia4KNk0rkN6Nmf7_zYXrG0tqP/s640/DD4.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Shelved memories on display ..... lest those in the inner recesses of our mind and heart begin fade......</b></span></div>
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by two decades and continents – with formative years in native South Africa and
adolescence/adulthood in adopted Australia, there is a measure of satisfaction
that as parents we’ve been able to provide a balanced upbringing and education
representing, arguably, the best of both disparate worlds. Whereas the physical
remoteness, oceans apart, remains a constant the socio-cultural gulf, worlds
apart, is ever increasing. Yesteryear’s hope and promise all but snuffed out but
fortuitously replaced by a bright and viable alternative - the Australian
dream. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkm2HiuIhmcIrDAi024cBPWAQ5ySyJ7mFJV24SPWoVJ6r4TanLz4Up_r2hvuRDGQKvvLnDoD9iUsTIzjdBAIpm1TEK-aCyaYUpkIAerioV8HMyG4BAyJMkBftqS1BzmbcVDMOQK50yGT9H/s1600/images+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkm2HiuIhmcIrDAi024cBPWAQ5ySyJ7mFJV24SPWoVJ6r4TanLz4Up_r2hvuRDGQKvvLnDoD9iUsTIzjdBAIpm1TEK-aCyaYUpkIAerioV8HMyG4BAyJMkBftqS1BzmbcVDMOQK50yGT9H/s400/images+%25282%2529.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="271" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Cherished times never taken for granted</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitoGTmZscTkbgxDZBNHeNHRzV4oU5jA6O48ZnwblHthP7HbWAFRLEa2NONORNSP4jcuO30m4_ux6NeHb58oVwxY2DlAXFw7uGYSpC2zdYaTWDGx0bHZUzQYItb37EhnQDTOnEJnnosBs6s/s1600/DD6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitoGTmZscTkbgxDZBNHeNHRzV4oU5jA6O48ZnwblHthP7HbWAFRLEa2NONORNSP4jcuO30m4_ux6NeHb58oVwxY2DlAXFw7uGYSpC2zdYaTWDGx0bHZUzQYItb37EhnQDTOnEJnnosBs6s/s400/DD6.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Experienced it! Pokemons, Sims, UniGames .... </b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;">One of many life-altering memories ‘gifted’ by
a progressive and functional Australian society, that prides itself for its
hard yakka – work (and play) ethic, is legalized/protected employment for youth
in their early teens. Juggling extra mural sport/art with approximately 40 paid
employment hours per month in the Fast-Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG) sector is a
tall order but a fascinating and necessary ‘rite of passage’ for countless
young Aussies – it’s simply the done thing! Commencing at the confused and
clumsy ‘twilight-age’ of 14, most are thrust into the fore-front of customer
service/retail trade serving at fast-food outlets, restaurants, supermarkets, fruit
and vegetable outlets, butcheries and delicatessens.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNXY0S_xtzBHHVL9UBgh5bQhH7k9Vt6gbXKQcYQMbE9uoVT8JS8QiIV9RLhWLVCuky4fVjghp3dXnJ9eDYjpU-Z78wHk5yN0Ke3-bFrosI_aNY3wmq1Y2j-XOUAPIehUUGTHnYGu1zfRgT/s1600/DD1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNXY0S_xtzBHHVL9UBgh5bQhH7k9Vt6gbXKQcYQMbE9uoVT8JS8QiIV9RLhWLVCuky4fVjghp3dXnJ9eDYjpU-Z78wHk5yN0Ke3-bFrosI_aNY3wmq1Y2j-XOUAPIehUUGTHnYGu1zfRgT/s400/DD1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Working and playing hard - putting everything into life</b></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;">Many teens are exposed to an array of store
front, customer service, and back office tasks – roles and responsibilities
including cleaning chores and financial transactions - dealing with cash and
credit. The nett result, invariably, is a confident and switched-on Aussie
adolescent consumer group with marketplace/consumer SMARTS including a
well-defined and personalized work ethic; what it is to provide as well as
receive ‘acceptable – world class levels’ of customer service in an
increasingly service-oriented milieu; the value of money – earning and spending
it; and time/priority management.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdR-o6BX_-hqQR83kEU0Qf4rt_-52xy7Onsw19eDC1jIpW8no5E-8LUT7yVyh0tvCKZ4jIPmwlQup4rLDl07cjczl84_M92jbSZ5PiMJHgfT82UpoeFcz1xrv_3VmWceQgj2RFfK8kAiF/s1600/DD3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdR-o6BX_-hqQR83kEU0Qf4rt_-52xy7Onsw19eDC1jIpW8no5E-8LUT7yVyh0tvCKZ4jIPmwlQup4rLDl07cjczl84_M92jbSZ5PiMJHgfT82UpoeFcz1xrv_3VmWceQgj2RFfK8kAiF/s400/DD3.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Adorable idiosyncrasies given wings........... </b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;">The flip-side of all of this is that Australian
society/consumers are covertly seduced and or blatantly king-hit by highly
sophisticated and ruthless multi-media machinery intent upon extracting every
possible dollar, present or forthcoming, from less vigilant or discerning
shoppers. With immense societal/ peer pressure and a pre-occupation for
immediate gratification fueled by beautiful people, bodies, places and cuisine
– let the good times roll! Health, fitness and well-being, once peeled back and
exposed, competes constantly with an insidious ‘cringe- binge society’
predominated by fast food, fast alcohol, fast sugar and other fast vices.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;">Confronted by this bookcase and its countless vignettes,
short stories, chapters, books – fables, non-fiction or otherwise – even if
incomplete – this represents a personal, living library in its own right. First
faltering footsteps; ‘raptured’ randomness, of thought, personality, and
aptitude, emerging and evolving; uncanny fingered and spatial dexterity – boxed
origami menagerie with all manner of walking and flying creatures – precise, practiced,
perfect – origins unknown ……. early glimmers of self-discipline and
determination; fastidious fascination with mythical and ethereal creatures –
dragons and Dragonology, fairies, dinosaurs etc……<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqfVAGaMJYXINN6J2ATQD4gkujU74JrruENB5nteNE_1bpXiHq30kLZOKlKfJkEeLi_gFcbNi42eAel1ITacucEhoMCgAFJjvIsfPigArdcfCaZwLzunueJuBrllYl9mZJwQ9kXUdYf_Mc/s1600/DD2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqfVAGaMJYXINN6J2ATQD4gkujU74JrruENB5nteNE_1bpXiHq30kLZOKlKfJkEeLi_gFcbNi42eAel1ITacucEhoMCgAFJjvIsfPigArdcfCaZwLzunueJuBrllYl9mZJwQ9kXUdYf_Mc/s400/DD2.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Dragonology and drawing really cool stuff....</b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">A bookmark – WRENCHED away to new and different
world ….. finding a meaningful place in it. Pedagogical and personality
transformation centered upon an open, energetic, inquisitive, adventurous, no
bars hold mindset. Unrecognizable quirk-arty twist. Opportunity given and taken – </span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">a life embraced and lived to the
fullest. <span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">Streakish independence verging on selfishness – perhaps the
difference between mediocrity, being just another Sheila blogs ssp. Australiensis,
or someone of substance – perhaps excellence given the fiercely competitive
nature of the Australian way of life.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNhHR2Q-ZQz3wgDW_8xyJI3o5fpwEmbIFVO3ZAP6Es6zl7tdIPrUOtgNr1s1epzUdify5RLFyLgD4OhXeimxl0wWJxlyOqMUzeh6v9i7mIpmZ827M0KS5AwnMoVhOhAzvBg7qua61p0N5m/s1600/DD5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNhHR2Q-ZQz3wgDW_8xyJI3o5fpwEmbIFVO3ZAP6Es6zl7tdIPrUOtgNr1s1epzUdify5RLFyLgD4OhXeimxl0wWJxlyOqMUzeh6v9i7mIpmZ827M0KS5AwnMoVhOhAzvBg7qua61p0N5m/s400/DD5.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Womanly paraphernalia......... </b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; line-height: 115%; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;">From an exuberantly
wild, long-limbed, topless tomboy to a mature, confident and driven young
professional woman but still, a yet incomplete metamorphosis.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: bold;">Celebrating Aussie Awesomeness! A work in progress.</span></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-30588089324416139412016-05-13T04:49:00.001-07:002016-05-13T04:49:38.015-07:00When I was Once King.....<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Text by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Once
upon a time whilst muddling and muttering through this life I received an arrow
shot and very timely reminder of what I once was. This struck rawly at
time-numbed and travel-wearied nerve endings but has been an enduring epiphany
ever since. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">I also recall that in a port city, in the very small Kingdom of Our South
Africa, there are priceless treasures hoarded away in the smallest of boxes
within many other, bigger boxes. One wonders whether they have survived the
passage of time and pilferage. These treasures are odes to those at the very
centre of this kingdom and for the very fear that they will never be told or
retold enough, as they richly and deservedly should; there is no better time than
now to share these stories and expressions of love and gratitude towards my
family – both to my partner and wife for the better part of my life and our
children.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Throughout this and rough and tumble rule, countless gifts were bestowed upon
this undeserving King. Most were at the hand of his gracious Queen..... some
were immediate whereas others were time-lapsed and often not fully realized or
appreciated. They included unwavering support; rude career and directional
nudges; incredible patience; much self-sacrifice and a priceless family.</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">The heirs rode handsomely on his knees, back and shoulders; waltzed cocooned in
his arms; juggled and caught countless balls with relentless monotony and
blazed, with same intensity, many walking trails throughout his and other
kingdoms in faraway lands.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Once, as a husband, parent, confidant and imperfect ruler he was at the centre
of their universe. He was touched and re-touched by their love, energy and
adoration but now, alone, exiled to troubled lands and with wonky knees, wizened
features he desperately longs for that ‘touch’ again and harbors secret and
irrational fears that he has already had, that last touch!</span></div>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-91121465187837064632015-12-27T11:45:00.000-08:002015-12-27T11:45:46.317-08:00Tickling and Trampling Around The Toe of Italy - Province of Reggio Calabria <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pictorial by Barry Greville-Eyres</span> </h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Mandorla - Calabria's Tree of Life! Historically this tree grew in profusion in the surrounding mountainous areas naturally or as a cultivated tree crop along with olive and citrus groves. Some literature refers to oak trees with acorns which were milled and used as a wheat flour replacement in the making of bread. Its possible that this is a reference to almond flour. From a theological perspective a</b></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"> </span><i style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">mandorla</i><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"> is a </span>vesica piscis<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"> shaped aureola (protective shell-nut and kernel configuration) which surrounds the figures of Christ and the Virgin Mary in traditional Christian art.</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"> It is especially used to frame the figure of </span>Christ in Majesty<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"> in early medieval and </span>Romanesque art<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">, as well as </span>Byzantine art<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"> of the same periods. The term refers to the </span>almond<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"> like shape: "mandorla" means </span>almond nut in Italian<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">. In </span>icons<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"> of the </span>Eastern Orthodox Church<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">, the mandorla is used to depict sacred moments which transcend time and space, such as the </span>Resurrection<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">, </span>Transfiguration<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">, and the </span>Dormition of the Theotokos<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">.</span> </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The lower reaches of the Amendolea River with its broad floodplain on its relentless march to the coast. Dry for most of the year, it is quickly transformed into a raging torrent and one of the fast flowing rivers in the region with the onset of the rainy season. </b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The destructive forces of nature in this harsh and dynamic bio-physical environment including episodic earthquakes (1783, 1908) and floods (1973) with associated landslides are on display and litter the watercourse of the Amendolea River. </b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Views of the Amendolea hinterland mostly made up of clay-rich hills with low-rising and uneven vegetation, furrowed by winter-time torrents that deposit debris ripped from the mountainsides downstream. In spite of this, traditionally the river courses were the only ready access routes and lines of communication between the mountainous Aspromonte region and the seaside for long periods of time. In the past the Amendolea River irrigated fields of cereal crops and cultivated trees including citrus and olives also providing water-powered energy to turn the wheels of various mills. </b></span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"> </b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Agro-tourism and farm-stays have become a thriving cultural and socio-economic concern in Amendolea and the region generally, exploiting its true uniqueness. This includes bergamot orange (depicted in the image above) which is an iconic, citrus fruit only grown in Reggio Calabria </b></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>where more than 80% is produced. The tree may well be native to the region as there is evidence as early as the 14th century of a citrus tree known as Limon pusillus </b></span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">calaber</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">.</span></b><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b> </b></span></span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"> </b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>At the centerpiece and on the banks of the Amendolea River is the Il Bergamotto Farm-stay with mixed, cultivated tree crops - bergamot citrus (center with dark green foliage) and flanked by olive trees (grey-green foliage). The citrus thrives in the area due to its favorable micro-climate. The prominent rock outcrop at the center of the picture is the silhouette of Il Lupo or The Wolf. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The </b></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>bergamot orange</b></span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"> </b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>harvest begins in early November and sometimes lasts until February. The </b></span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"> </b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>peels are hung out to dry, after which they are brought into workshops for processing. Essential oils are extracted from the ripe peels and its fabled that o</b></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">ne hundred fruit yield about three ounces (85 g) of oil. The extract appears as an extremely fragrant fluid with a yellowish or green tint, depending on the peel ripeness. Whereas the fruit itself is inedible, the </span></b></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">essence is used in perfumery </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">for its ability to combine with an array of scents to form a bouquet of aromas w</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">hich complement each other. About one-third of all men's and about half of women’s perfumes contain bergamot essential oil. </span></b></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;">The juice of the fruit has been used in Calabrian </span>indigenous medicine<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px; text-align: start;"> to treat </span>malaria </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Calabrian fruity, sweet delights consisting of dried figs with almonds inserted and configured in the shaped a cross - a legacy of Byzantine cultural heritage. Lightweight, all natural, wholesome and packed with calorific energy shepherds and now, more recent hikers have drawn great sustenance and pleasure from these trusty and tasty snacks. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Guides, travel companions and aficionados from the Gruppo Archeologico Valle Dell Amendolea.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Timeless tones and textures - deserted farm homestead adjacent to the Amendolea River.</b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Local livestock foraging alongside the Amendolea River </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Restoration of iconic Calabrian national monuments.</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Overlooking the Amendolea River are remnants of the Castello Ruffo di Amendolea directly a</b></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>djacent to the namesake medieval village - both of which are an enduring legacy of Greci di Calabria. Definitively abandoned only after the 1908 earthquake, historic Amendolea was rebuilt as a small, agro-pastoral borough at the foot of a huge rock atop of which it is still possible to visit the ruins of the great Ruffo castle. The strategic importance of the site and the castle are immediately self-evident to visitors. </b><b> </b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Arches commanding panoramic views of mountain, dale and sea.</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Conceivably an underground water cistern, within the confines of the </b></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b style="text-align: justify;">Castello Ruffo di Amendolea, </b><b>used for decades to store this precious commodity.</b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Birds-eye view of the Amendolea River from the Castella controlling access to the coast and hinterland. </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Withstanding the ravages of time and an abrasive environment.</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The ancient steeple of chiesa di S. Nicola or Church of St. Nicola occupying the adjacent ridge line from the </b></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Castello Ruffo di Amendolea.</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The altar area of the almost medieval </b></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>chiesa di S. Nicola over-looking the Amendolea River.</b><b> </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The Grecanici, or rather the Greek towns of Calabria, are located upon the Ionian slopes of the Aspromonte massif, in the Amendolea river valley. Most scholars now believe that the local dialect originated with Byzantine civilization and was brought to Calabria in the 7th century by Basilian monks, excluding the possibility that it might date back to the Magna Graecia period, as was previously believed. At the beginning of the 20th century, the <i>grecanica</i> dialect was still widely spoken in the towns throughout the region, even just outside Reggio Calabria itself. Much has changed, however, and over the span of a century this dialect is now spoken almost exclusively among the older generations. The dialect is in dire danger of dying out. Today, various cultural associations in Bova and the surrounding area are dedicated to recovering this ancient culture and language as much as possible. </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Bova is regarded as the <i>capital</i> of the Calabrian Greek and is well-known for its interesting local crafts and products. These include beautiful blankets and other products woven by hand, featuring characteristic floral and geometric patterns. The town is also home to a number of local woodcarvers, who produce a wide range of traditional yet charming objects. </b><b>Bova Marina is located at the mouth of the Sideroni tributary having divorced itself from inland Bova several decades ago.</b> <b>In the upper part of Bova town, visitors can admire the ruins of a medieval castle with its two cylindrical towers, which dates back to at least the 11th century. </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>From the summit of Bova town visitors can enjoy spectacular panoramic views of the hinterland and coastline extending all the way to the eastern coast of Sicily. </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>An absent room with an enduring view</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>A tourism-oriented mosaic mural on the outskirts of Bova depicting the unique characteristics and attributes of the area.</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Loggerhead turtle conservation on the beaches at Condofuri Marina. The turtle is known as a <i>flagship species </i>because of their enormous strategic role within the ambit of conservation, all the more so because their ecological characteristics also play a key role in ecosystems: their conservation automatically involves the safeguard of numerous other species, directly or indirectly associated with them, thanks to the protection of extensive habitats and natural territories. </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Condofuri Marina coastline at dawn prior to the invasion of local sun-worshipers</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Calabrian towns traditional known for their Greek origins include: Bova, Condofuri, Galliciano, Roccaforte del Greco, Amendolea, Roghudi and Ghorio di Roghudi. </span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Charm, self-determination and resilience personified - Galliciano nestled in its mountain refuge. From the 1950's on, a series of landslides and floods affecting many inland communities materially displaced and dispersed them together with their unique language. The small towns inhabited by shepherds and peasants were rebuilt as anonymous coastal dormitory towns, retaining the original town identity but tacking on the word Marina. The new towns were located several kilometers from their original mountain sites and the populations forcibly transferred there en masse. </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Mass trans-locations were the fates of Africo in 1951 and Roghudi in 1972. Around the same time Galliciano and, later Bova, following landslides (1972/73) and an earthquake (1978), did not escape attempts to transfer the inhabitants on the grounds of natural disaster or political interference. The resistance of the people of a number of inland Greek-speaking villages who have managed to survive, is considered miraculous given the difficult logistic and economic living conditions of the inhabitants. In fact, Galliciano was provided with a completely bitumen-ed road only recently while Bova, the moral capital of the area, is still reached by an rainproof yet winding road built at the beginning of the 20th century. </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The medieval parish church in Galliciano features a magnificent facade and bell tower. </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The church also boasts a splendid 16th century marble statue of Saint John the Baptist and an ornate baptismal font, which is likely the 16th century work of Rinaldo Bonanno. </span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Calabrian towns traditional known for their Greek origins include: Bova, Condofuri, Galliciano, Roccaforte del Greco, Amendolea, Roghudi and Ghorio di Roghudi. Its little wonder that the Greek flag is openly displayed in the Galliciano piazza. </span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Galliciano, the only entirely Greek-speaking village still in existence today, deserves special mention. The village is renowned in the entire area for its high degree of preservation of the Graecanic traditions, not only the language, but all socio-cultural dimensions including the music, food and rituals. Regrettably, the language is not used as widely as in the past but is primarily spoken within the family context. </span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The blogger with Galliciano village folk visiting their unique Graecanic museum which pays homage to their extraordinary cultural heritage </span></b></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-25888909781789640542015-09-02T12:45:00.001-07:002015-09-02T12:45:24.588-07:00Malindi - Kenyan Coastline<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pictorial and words by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">New Partner Partnership for Africa's Development, the African renaissance (courtesy of Thabo Mbeki 1997/8) ..... little or no arguing with this! Just love this classic Kenyan response which is SO cool!</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Authentic Italian cuisine - smoked sailfish carpaccio served at Simba House - Malindi under the new management of Martina and Jacopo at <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">E-mail: </span></strong></span><a href="mailto:info@simbahouse.net"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>info@simbahouse.net</strong></span></a><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>; Skype: jajosimba and <span style="background-color: #e6ecf9;">Tel .: <span class="skype_c2c_print_container skype_c2c notranslate">+254728293784</span><span class="skype_c2c_container skype_c2c notranslate" data-isfreecall="false" data-ismobile="false" data-isrtl="false" data-numbertocall="+254728293784" data-numbertype="paid" dir="ltr" id="skype_c2c_container" tabindex="-1"><span class="skype_c2c_highlighting_inactive_common" dir="ltr" skypeaction="skype_dropdown"><span class="skype_c2c_textarea_span" id="non_free_num_ui"><img class="skype_c2c_logo_img" height="0" src="skypec2c://r/204" width="0" /> <span class="skype_c2c_text_span">+254728293784</span><span class="skype_c2c_free_text_span"></span></span></span></span></span></strong></span><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"> </span><strong> </strong></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Freshly prepared potato gnocchi served at Simba House - wholesome, healthy and delicious! </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Winning Simba House Team preparing grilled red snapper - Mediterranean style with green olives and tomatoes. Chef Elias, Jacopo and Martina (L-R) with much to smile about! </span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Bon Appetit!</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Strawberry Crostata - a wonderfully light shortbread cake served up for breakfast by Simba House's Masterchef Elias </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Spoonbills are waders that frequent Mida Creek</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Eco-tourism and conservation - community projects of the Giriama people at Mida Creek with mangrove seedlings ready for planting out</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Giriama people wholly dependent upon and sustained by Mida Creek</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A rickety boardwalk, suspended over the ebbing and flowing waters of Mida Creek, snaking through the mature mangroves is set to test the nerve, patience, and fancy footwork of landlubbers </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Guided canoe trips on Mida Creek undertaken by members of the Giriama Tribe is an interesting and fun eco-tourism activity on offer</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Youngers do the heavy-lifting to get this traditional, dugout canoe to the waters edge</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A key landmark on the Malindi waterfront - is the Museum or House of Columns. The structure itself is an excellent example of traditional Swahili architecture and contains many fascinating exhibits of archaeological finds dug up around the coast.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Another significant Malindi landmark is the Vasco da Gama Pillar - arguably representing the genesis of the Age of Exploration. The edifice was erected in 1498 by da Gama as a navigational aid and the coral outcrop or column is topped by a cross made of Lisbon stone. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Further examples of Swahili architecture in the form of holiday resort infrastructure along the Malindi waterfront.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Near-side Malindi Beach on the low tide.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Far-side Malindi Beach still on the low tide.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">What and Wi the Fi? This idea or need does certainly does not sit well with Mi.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Malindi town profile taken from the main beach</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Earthy terra firma!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"># 1 Aspect & Perspective - of Malindi Beach</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><strong># 2 Aspect & Perspective - of Malindi Beach</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><em>Bella spiaggia</em> - Italian for beautiful beach and this is certainly an understatement!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Chillaxing at the Simba House with the wonderful, Swahili open plan design</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Recline, fully, on one of the comfortable Simba House sofas .... tilt head ever so slightly back</span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">wards and cast your eyes sky and ceiling-wards ..... imbibe the rustic and earthy materials and design patterns ..... close your eyes and feel yourself drift away........... </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">One invigorating way to start a Malindi Day at Simba House!</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-42138703891798647422015-05-15T23:28:00.000-07:002015-05-15T23:28:11.222-07:00Karibu Mombasa!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pictorial by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Iconic Moi Avenue - Mombasa. The port city boasts the largest and best deep water port in East Africa. The Swahili description of Mombasa, attributed to partly by an old line of poetry and an equally old local proverb, reads as follows: Mombasa is famous, but its waters are dangerously deep. Figuratively speaking .... the Wild East! (Africa) </span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Rooftop views across the CBD - Mombasa Old Town depicting its waning crescent. Its matched by an equally inglorious past and present including rapid urbanization and overcrowding with horrendous traffic congestion; ethnic tension; sporadic Al Shebaab terror attacks; general crime and violence; high unemployment with desperate people, understandably, driven to extreme measures. Nevertheless, the city pulsates with an energy and charm that is both alluring and intoxicating. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRmHzTEcBrvJK1tGxwj9qkBtNB_nXzfkWkDX8jXnKLZAGMZF8UQgwqFMWd9UKdpbTjLCYK1Og7VlSgfuU6IUENITOwLyw3DQjvqGxyPK1rLGx2msd34ZVwXGmZfar85bvdqu19occKmE_z/s1600/MB36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRmHzTEcBrvJK1tGxwj9qkBtNB_nXzfkWkDX8jXnKLZAGMZF8UQgwqFMWd9UKdpbTjLCYK1Og7VlSgfuU6IUENITOwLyw3DQjvqGxyPK1rLGx2msd34ZVwXGmZfar85bvdqu19occKmE_z/s640/MB36.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Mombasa's beaches and coastal resorts are exquisitely beautiful and with its warm tropical waters and climate it's an all year round, holiday destination of note.</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPg5bz9WSN2sMTn60KfGhIAQU5KXUCycR80Kh1KzMtp5uvXDwy5oXq-hW8gqFKtL7Zlmr8ObWxWC6fhV4jFQfHcvtBxWYBd9hirut8mqip3ZPVsJaX1J7NGGMXkplVLWz3WqIExVpgRXAp/s1600/MB33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPg5bz9WSN2sMTn60KfGhIAQU5KXUCycR80Kh1KzMtp5uvXDwy5oXq-hW8gqFKtL7Zlmr8ObWxWC6fhV4jFQfHcvtBxWYBd9hirut8mqip3ZPVsJaX1J7NGGMXkplVLWz3WqIExVpgRXAp/s640/MB33.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mombasa was already a thriving port city by the 12th century and only recently lost it's status of the chief port in East Africa when essentially superceded by Dar es Salaam in Tanzania</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjlbsQ5IxWHyslPcqG_XEuqeX9lOQvXyJ182IIWKxWfnhNx82yMSPpQlQPUgFmtf1uALbxnMpUv2WHaDIzSQ69DR5N7F9qNHoZTd4aKhYU5FI9q0_QQs6EYpksmpdI-J5MGB2ldcXiRK2B/s1600/MB5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjlbsQ5IxWHyslPcqG_XEuqeX9lOQvXyJ182IIWKxWfnhNx82yMSPpQlQPUgFmtf1uALbxnMpUv2WHaDIzSQ69DR5N7F9qNHoZTd4aKhYU5FI9q0_QQs6EYpksmpdI-J5MGB2ldcXiRK2B/s640/MB5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">An important, largely unknown and controversial blemish on the distant history of Mombasa and the greater region is the slave trade of the Swahili Coast or East Africa. Between the 7th and 19th centuries its estimated that Arab and Swahili traders kidnapped 4 million slaves from East African territories and sold them for labour in households and plantations across the Middle East and Arab controlled African coastal states.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavp6l9VcBejZPlTvS6xQUx487QHqgzPfL-xiib5pvyUdnBgjxtX__yp53FgBhMBmCWH8aabTMOiImK_7zvavuChxaLfhK7Mcza3BTilV8jpV-PRS_981_3rlUznW8Bu1UyOkC9ulYKsWU/s1600/MB8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavp6l9VcBejZPlTvS6xQUx487QHqgzPfL-xiib5pvyUdnBgjxtX__yp53FgBhMBmCWH8aabTMOiImK_7zvavuChxaLfhK7Mcza3BTilV8jpV-PRS_981_3rlUznW8Bu1UyOkC9ulYKsWU/s640/MB8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The fading fascades of slave trading infrastructure or markets are depicted in this and the picture above. Research has revealed that the East African Slave Trade both predated and exceeded (in the actual numbers of humans trafficked) the Atlantic Triangle Slave Trade although actual figures are unknown and remain highly disputed. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9PAVRkIiM2XK7e8aRjSma-hFOe6Wc3DpIwhRCmCr6UiDpJNRHxTTkVoZh-wDVV9cIHV3xROq9GHMYuKWm9d2Pso7WG88eenC9yAxohmR_EVDPL9RVjN2TkctJl8CNSJhcxn72UpLFKk70/s1600/MB14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9PAVRkIiM2XK7e8aRjSma-hFOe6Wc3DpIwhRCmCr6UiDpJNRHxTTkVoZh-wDVV9cIHV3xROq9GHMYuKWm9d2Pso7WG88eenC9yAxohmR_EVDPL9RVjN2TkctJl8CNSJhcxn72UpLFKk70/s640/MB14.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A lasting legacy of the East African Slave Trade in Mombasa's Old Town are chain motifs carved into the wooden doors belonging to the homes of former slave traders. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOqY3u4K_Qo_lYt7ONSQ4eUFkvaDw2ojZWBJsqqmEZaF5ZMg_wrKDVZeuIYCIEVpmaeInC8RA3WVOMGO1XQtENa728UKu1XWSvo5DclSn9qJjrOs5icRQ3kweO5uOLXasOTjJMFZqUC0d4/s1600/MB13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOqY3u4K_Qo_lYt7ONSQ4eUFkvaDw2ojZWBJsqqmEZaF5ZMg_wrKDVZeuIYCIEVpmaeInC8RA3WVOMGO1XQtENa728UKu1XWSvo5DclSn9qJjrOs5icRQ3kweO5uOLXasOTjJMFZqUC0d4/s640/MB13.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Another 'revealing' and exquisite set of antique doors, possibly teak, found in Old Town Mombasa. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbBZBFoDfxcBqnj1VecITQvq2IpXcfq6dsq2JS44KKxeO4dSebwhpNiEjIvNQVuQxd96XdmaNFxDDqJODkyWXtuYH-ye7fdtBGFmU6XSkOxwwczBr1P_Q9AR9JhNLd4qO9nrHq261EocrE/s1600/MB12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbBZBFoDfxcBqnj1VecITQvq2IpXcfq6dsq2JS44KKxeO4dSebwhpNiEjIvNQVuQxd96XdmaNFxDDqJODkyWXtuYH-ye7fdtBGFmU6XSkOxwwczBr1P_Q9AR9JhNLd4qO9nrHq261EocrE/s640/MB12.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Intricate wood carvings of a bygone era. Slave caravans, on forced marches, from inland to coastal areas saw less than 1 in 5 survive, many either dying of disease or mercifully put out of their misery (executed) for showing weakness along the way. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaOv8l26eUcwB2_xY-_Rpvv2aAtyRuL5lKQqs3QR-CrBjvCWoZXUj1_-DPE4owrZptImjNU_wi6eupB5ylFsC7gaTfWf31JomA5n-rYbIhqTvrrntt_BK2hxWfh7SC0A8glw9W2U1AYK6O/s1600/MB7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaOv8l26eUcwB2_xY-_Rpvv2aAtyRuL5lKQqs3QR-CrBjvCWoZXUj1_-DPE4owrZptImjNU_wi6eupB5ylFsC7gaTfWf31JomA5n-rYbIhqTvrrntt_BK2hxWfh7SC0A8glw9W2U1AYK6O/s640/MB7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A decidely different scene centuries ago........ Thousands of African boys underwent crude and unsanitary surgical procedures (castration) transforming them into eunuchs to provide servants to Arabic households and an estimated 2.5 million young African women were sold as concubines. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVqXOmPsGVXYpnR6yhAy-1kDQCJS6egBxJiqJD_Vx8kkoWz86ha0fj9-mzhsqnLyO8bcVASdZ6ryZ3JLl2XeKnMB7_hFG3_8HVOeVcCo5rQH1RqVHnbQNZ7PgicDPzr1KV4cFJkTsSV7X/s1600/MB3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVqXOmPsGVXYpnR6yhAy-1kDQCJS6egBxJiqJD_Vx8kkoWz86ha0fj9-mzhsqnLyO8bcVASdZ6ryZ3JLl2XeKnMB7_hFG3_8HVOeVcCo5rQH1RqVHnbQNZ7PgicDPzr1KV4cFJkTsSV7X/s640/MB3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Yet another set of doors ..... yet this time, closing them firmly on this chapter in Mombasa's lengthy and troubled history</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFgKQTmyAAkbQv5UprTfSKGxgK1jR6VAA145CEBB20biDAyy80Ec6nyNeRvT9DR5HPJTNQHhhXKiSXuaQ8C_FrlXzZFcP7vU0Qpn8bM1265Dd-NVAe4o7Z8SiNWJzgm3wHIzDhE2KCl_E/s1600/MB18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFgKQTmyAAkbQv5UprTfSKGxgK1jR6VAA145CEBB20biDAyy80Ec6nyNeRvT9DR5HPJTNQHhhXKiSXuaQ8C_FrlXzZFcP7vU0Qpn8bM1265Dd-NVAe4o7Z8SiNWJzgm3wHIzDhE2KCl_E/s640/MB18.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Fort Jesus is Mombasa's most visted location; a UNESCO declared World Heritage Site; anchor tenant of the Old Town and principal structure of the city's harbour. It was intended to represent Portuguese domination and colonization, as a fortified headquarters, in this part of the Indian Ocean. The target of several Swahili rebellions and a procession of foreign occupiers, it changed hands 9 times between 1631 and 1875. </span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplp9mjpKDsQX8FQVSDU4K-oMpkWRXYeGhCjo5aFl8tXklkKnGy9YpCmmGMChm7Nq-eK-oEyFmWF5jpL5uquIDkwNJCY9Pfg9lqkLAGcm4iIOUwtofhgnxbRTm0TpUmOmsMJ24-bI_0uTB/s1600/MB16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplp9mjpKDsQX8FQVSDU4K-oMpkWRXYeGhCjo5aFl8tXklkKnGy9YpCmmGMChm7Nq-eK-oEyFmWF5jpL5uquIDkwNJCY9Pfg9lqkLAGcm4iIOUwtofhgnxbRTm0TpUmOmsMJ24-bI_0uTB/s640/MB16.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A splendid arch with an equally splendid view constructed out of coral by invading Portuguese sailors in 1593. Vasco da Gama was the first Portuguese visitor to the Port of Mombasa and East Africa in 1498. Follow up visits and conquests took place in 1505 and 1528 where the town was repeatedly plundered and razed to the ground. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCzHTbepiY0F8Fp8AUJBY6_rIZYHtYil-udjabf284yeM5BtVnhz3_epg0zkgDsM3TYAg6L1wQhm39g1F1E15jH7dIL6c66eFqqCHxoPt_1zU-OC0FIO88zfpl9iE8Sz0H00Z0drIKYKWW/s1600/MB19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCzHTbepiY0F8Fp8AUJBY6_rIZYHtYil-udjabf284yeM5BtVnhz3_epg0zkgDsM3TYAg6L1wQhm39g1F1E15jH7dIL6c66eFqqCHxoPt_1zU-OC0FIO88zfpl9iE8Sz0H00Z0drIKYKWW/s640/MB19.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Would the yarn this olde battle-scarred boabab, cemented into coral crevices in close proximity to Fort Jesus, have to tell differ markedly from 'official' accounts and folklore?</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq9Ewv6HrqUROX8y8bIYhd2fZ_A1odqAdO5Z0SnVYmNvL5t-DhSj18mQA7bSzGBkcbOtkG-mRj6uWeC-zgiTz3CY-GCmsPUfdTqr6OB_-Vn3Hv06s-oAbF7_nkdrX6ah9QAiYdTq-uY3an/s1600/MB17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq9Ewv6HrqUROX8y8bIYhd2fZ_A1odqAdO5Z0SnVYmNvL5t-DhSj18mQA7bSzGBkcbOtkG-mRj6uWeC-zgiTz3CY-GCmsPUfdTqr6OB_-Vn3Hv06s-oAbF7_nkdrX6ah9QAiYdTq-uY3an/s640/MB17.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Up close and personal with the giant coral castle - Fort Jesus. The Portuguese were eventually dethroned in 1698 by invading Omani Arabs. The British joined the procession in 1870 when they replaced the Omani Arabs. There is little wonder that the Swahili nickname for Mombasa is 'The Island of War.' </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">All roads and narrow alleyways in Old Town Mombasa lead to Fort Jesus</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxS79k5A6CZpzdmuJbXZ1R9OLcLSCmq7M59BJmrOCr-6bylxMm5ETVw63wz76vhfSKBL1WjNY36cIs-7D99uMFjD6XDdvgmx_wzuL3E8xSphorV_D3KgtCxVMmczg5FWOaD9FUxfO8t7_u/s1600/MB20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxS79k5A6CZpzdmuJbXZ1R9OLcLSCmq7M59BJmrOCr-6bylxMm5ETVw63wz76vhfSKBL1WjNY36cIs-7D99uMFjD6XDdvgmx_wzuL3E8xSphorV_D3KgtCxVMmczg5FWOaD9FUxfO8t7_u/s640/MB20.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Landward view, from the Indian Ocean, of the deep water Mombasa port and Fort Jesus </span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Uqvl0Bqv8VFbRtbkoSS4OkCY_Ma-HA24ZYD7ztvk_FefSvgUc_l1SlVpKRsKTAy5SPL-weEWCOz1xHuNlOjVxWhTcj2xSmlAurX4UE3sUtzfTzJgyamKQK8FpJ8eU8oqeYDCRwXZC8D-/s1600/MB34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Uqvl0Bqv8VFbRtbkoSS4OkCY_Ma-HA24ZYD7ztvk_FefSvgUc_l1SlVpKRsKTAy5SPL-weEWCOz1xHuNlOjVxWhTcj2xSmlAurX4UE3sUtzfTzJgyamKQK8FpJ8eU8oqeYDCRwXZC8D-/s640/MB34.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Panoramic Pause # 1.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-tckAtbbSFenGd23jg-h-gSmTqrgcmFVLDVhcbPKSUXtGv6VIVMHh62kyllOOp9RXnkTVLrHK_OC-b72eyocB71mxnpzAnu3CE0Brv2hWZS-RibKndNt1RVdgVjs1nxUrsSOewzQKAs4/s1600/MB35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-tckAtbbSFenGd23jg-h-gSmTqrgcmFVLDVhcbPKSUXtGv6VIVMHh62kyllOOp9RXnkTVLrHK_OC-b72eyocB71mxnpzAnu3CE0Brv2hWZS-RibKndNt1RVdgVjs1nxUrsSOewzQKAs4/s640/MB35.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Panoramic Pause # 2. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-nAGmyhmgKpkj-Gcpm6OK-dofRc6nJY56hTLhiffMkuHoVjW5Ze5np7HLdkgKVW3luNOfLsknGKKU7PuKOodzpuwtMkyHwU9nOYucp7LGECSVR3AWylIrsm_kPBMVxQN0jzNCMO8tRjJw/s1600/MB2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-nAGmyhmgKpkj-Gcpm6OK-dofRc6nJY56hTLhiffMkuHoVjW5Ze5np7HLdkgKVW3luNOfLsknGKKU7PuKOodzpuwtMkyHwU9nOYucp7LGECSVR3AWylIrsm_kPBMVxQN0jzNCMO8tRjJw/s640/MB2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Old Town Mombasa - heritage buildings with wooden filigreed porches</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglpTyEgITzUUaQ__s_Qpy8jAQn8fadv1MDL__Q3WoceJi8BQnl-2vJ3ByhDy4k4iCny-vuzHCzjru7pu1D8kHebo6AoXgCav6l33FLAFmGBt1KE-fTS_QrGhWK-bZ6a5HwpTwcnbd0_rz_/s1600/MB1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglpTyEgITzUUaQ__s_Qpy8jAQn8fadv1MDL__Q3WoceJi8BQnl-2vJ3ByhDy4k4iCny-vuzHCzjru7pu1D8kHebo6AoXgCav6l33FLAFmGBt1KE-fTS_QrGhWK-bZ6a5HwpTwcnbd0_rz_/s640/MB1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Further yet more elabotate wooden filigreed porches in the Old Town precint</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZK_Mf54upzT8xHvWJSNQYv0d4xuHhVY62z2MhCDSgQaOSUtDLAONu5ub4hIQCOe2oPjLGXnAylPsJ73nlp7fV6XhN3vRHpVRFCsSUdQTdCmvkzyJJOglfQvWLZZTfvgEj7-VLz3i5wlft/s1600/MB9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZK_Mf54upzT8xHvWJSNQYv0d4xuHhVY62z2MhCDSgQaOSUtDLAONu5ub4hIQCOe2oPjLGXnAylPsJ73nlp7fV6XhN3vRHpVRFCsSUdQTdCmvkzyJJOglfQvWLZZTfvgEj7-VLz3i5wlft/s640/MB9.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Trade in the off tourist and rainy season is exceedingly slow - time for a breather and a friendly smile</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0IwLPBdbTW6R2rlnnozbf1VCuporou9_ewk4uwmL6hBr6FI-Zzx7rRdcnxRJQoneSgkpSO33xqdKJsO5qrflerSz4DvMCACelBHzQAfYJai6J-WB-yXFbNQq4yvOZMLg2s17mjoxRA3YX/s1600/MB11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0IwLPBdbTW6R2rlnnozbf1VCuporou9_ewk4uwmL6hBr6FI-Zzx7rRdcnxRJQoneSgkpSO33xqdKJsO5qrflerSz4DvMCACelBHzQAfYJai6J-WB-yXFbNQq4yvOZMLg2s17mjoxRA3YX/s640/MB11.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">You are very welcome! Expressively written all over the face of Ibrahim Ahmed Mohamed T/A Swahili Styles Furnitures - Old Town Mombasa (<a href="mailto:Ibra.dam@hotmail.com">Ibra.dam@hotmail.com</a>). The sheer beauty of the Old Town is that its a 'working one' with people living and working there, as was the case for centuries, like any other town. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3opJgY_HEK-vSYzDMZ2bVBJnMJkrQdPt5zTOmgmvXkg3AjhoTL8oBIS9ZHRQTUtJvK8gEDYtoyxGXha3GOzdrqKcxaVpjUkUmw_CzXZ2jOQfxuqAvphUy4azMSdNVDTq6fL_T_bBsIrsU/s1600/MB10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3opJgY_HEK-vSYzDMZ2bVBJnMJkrQdPt5zTOmgmvXkg3AjhoTL8oBIS9ZHRQTUtJvK8gEDYtoyxGXha3GOzdrqKcxaVpjUkUmw_CzXZ2jOQfxuqAvphUy4azMSdNVDTq6fL_T_bBsIrsU/s640/MB10.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Colour, character, charm and culture - Old Town-style!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3aBddnXGybV5xQV31rBynD3RIIq2Nt_4zK7T1p-e1qVHFDfwOMlUbbsVtdtzpr4R8IQKxPCVfUgc9FZUWSBlQ3UMUXdnSL5g6i88WubAKbEFwNBNAJh8aaNt5HYcRJML4bWh0pOop5AC/s1600/MB15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3aBddnXGybV5xQV31rBynD3RIIq2Nt_4zK7T1p-e1qVHFDfwOMlUbbsVtdtzpr4R8IQKxPCVfUgc9FZUWSBlQ3UMUXdnSL5g6i88WubAKbEFwNBNAJh8aaNt5HYcRJML4bWh0pOop5AC/s640/MB15.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">In 1920 Kenya became a fully fledged British colony and the Mombasa Club was one of the very first exclusive colonial 'institutions' - ironically a stone's throw from another former seat of foreign/colonial occupation in Fort Jesus.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOJ1T1_qms7WI-W1WVQPv9VjyUFfn-27NdMKMp4VVHxhsjh-tc7DqDRZHwq8mLUcfillsuGDDoYOLKVXReNP9Eo35FJ_hAtC-FQ86YUNNTMZCypj1rN1jjj351CrYDLH1xcqVQupmu0xGS/s1600/MB26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOJ1T1_qms7WI-W1WVQPv9VjyUFfn-27NdMKMp4VVHxhsjh-tc7DqDRZHwq8mLUcfillsuGDDoYOLKVXReNP9Eo35FJ_hAtC-FQ86YUNNTMZCypj1rN1jjj351CrYDLH1xcqVQupmu0xGS/s640/MB26.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Moi Avenue - obviously renamed after gaining independence from Britain in 1963 with many eye-catching architectural landmarks</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioTxauw-4h0D8PDDG2nkfOzBjlpjCYrxckwsiWOpckw_u8vFtQIiWOU8-Eh60mtZkfn5XNsKUQOer18nUiTk-FdTyZL_zmZObYtBk6oBdzUbQ2Jyo-sAc9lul6WfVxLELhxEgeWON3-oKb/s1600/MB27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioTxauw-4h0D8PDDG2nkfOzBjlpjCYrxckwsiWOpckw_u8vFtQIiWOU8-Eh60mtZkfn5XNsKUQOer18nUiTk-FdTyZL_zmZObYtBk6oBdzUbQ2Jyo-sAc9lul6WfVxLELhxEgeWON3-oKb/s640/MB27.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Another landmark in the traditional CBD and well within walking distance of Old Town Mombasa</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjokPvzzh_yJNvQdW9GCwEUL22U-OlKznOb0iWqsYPM3t3pMDF7KwTqOCqHfyduIDH8q1KifB6rpAUaHa585At3tr_YPD83g9tyqTdKTy9Nx0KIiKynuFp30Az9KURuOfPjbAuEIHEUaGAQ/s1600/MB24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjokPvzzh_yJNvQdW9GCwEUL22U-OlKznOb0iWqsYPM3t3pMDF7KwTqOCqHfyduIDH8q1KifB6rpAUaHa585At3tr_YPD83g9tyqTdKTy9Nx0KIiKynuFp30Az9KURuOfPjbAuEIHEUaGAQ/s640/MB24.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Flying Kenyan indepedence high!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixr7_JpyIsl0wfnjF_Q-rTsJBbIFpX57PKxUa0v8WLAusBN-zaOlR4_KXhhKC395n-X4izPP9Z-hKs_1m6rbuaPcB-Fz2H4JGmSo1WAoqSZL3Kb3ZF947e_WKuqbpkFGowDPLH5mM7qEmV/s1600/MB21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixr7_JpyIsl0wfnjF_Q-rTsJBbIFpX57PKxUa0v8WLAusBN-zaOlR4_KXhhKC395n-X4izPP9Z-hKs_1m6rbuaPcB-Fz2H4JGmSo1WAoqSZL3Kb3ZF947e_WKuqbpkFGowDPLH5mM7qEmV/s640/MB21.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">More eye-catching landmarks in the CBD</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_xzB6_udhR-UCuDo2iPKEBIoX5kRMgCQ6F-mSOwmY7K155DdL4-eceqTOvDdUaZIMD6ODjdcDSbvYQU7fj0NJeOOvO7B-LAcoNn13PuaTyMY8Lej-FppAgjS3gEKVxKSZbDNRR87AqeQv/s1600/MB22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_xzB6_udhR-UCuDo2iPKEBIoX5kRMgCQ6F-mSOwmY7K155DdL4-eceqTOvDdUaZIMD6ODjdcDSbvYQU7fj0NJeOOvO7B-LAcoNn13PuaTyMY8Lej-FppAgjS3gEKVxKSZbDNRR87AqeQv/s640/MB22.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The eclectic blend of architectural styles is easy on the eye and soul, making the Mombasa CBD an extremely interesting destination </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Street scene CBD - Mombasa</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mombasa's heritage retained and protected irrespective of the era - past and present</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4-d6fAp_9lKyLC6wj6ujM0kwQXhxkyZPZPbHjI1qoBK2tHZ31bATXE0dHQMBNbk8cQrNf_KVaTJicDOHahubk6dArjTlFJvz67VPyeL7laaY9PixJYd1DPqCEM-yu0I-k7mgDQq7Z2fEK/s1600/MB29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4-d6fAp_9lKyLC6wj6ujM0kwQXhxkyZPZPbHjI1qoBK2tHZ31bATXE0dHQMBNbk8cQrNf_KVaTJicDOHahubk6dArjTlFJvz67VPyeL7laaY9PixJYd1DPqCEM-yu0I-k7mgDQq7Z2fEK/s640/MB29.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Mombasa's public beaches are vibrant, exotic and a huge drawcard for adventure-junkies - note the camel on the right foreground.</strong></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZl23312_5lIELaktKdibLBSm3ZIVhFh3i7QS4PL8Yp9k6L4ACjhk63un7SZXRoiC6fFjjC8FyZ3ng4y-vSc0rC4k1QlMopcKp6h6IMz6NgVDCZmlG-8EHieXqIAJcKLvWHvzwLYx-OfNo/s1600/MB37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZl23312_5lIELaktKdibLBSm3ZIVhFh3i7QS4PL8Yp9k6L4ACjhk63un7SZXRoiC6fFjjC8FyZ3ng4y-vSc0rC4k1QlMopcKp6h6IMz6NgVDCZmlG-8EHieXqIAJcKLvWHvzwLYx-OfNo/s640/MB37.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Colorful backdrop on the sugary sands of Mombasa public beach</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWpaeVDGl9zKa2fqAp6swxhEVgzjdK-_XrQo-g1Q-PV5jof3couwG7Vf8TO2TEgQQ_zKd3-WqZrmj6cjwT-zYqpGMcTCVTfTuy5pBeVv9Ck_fsfR4EVInD9nUIOSnJN5VgI0I0TxlwcWug/s1600/MB30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWpaeVDGl9zKa2fqAp6swxhEVgzjdK-_XrQo-g1Q-PV5jof3couwG7Vf8TO2TEgQQ_zKd3-WqZrmj6cjwT-zYqpGMcTCVTfTuy5pBeVv9Ck_fsfR4EVInD9nUIOSnJN5VgI0I0TxlwcWug/s640/MB30.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Weekend - beach and party time!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYYpQCUEhE4F3GEEf1BxzKxJfZE9yMyuwMT32ebqfP0XXYFJ4iwG1VVAABkqDmwkW4q1rlHZCULeqhVItl8buJAN5lvZVBm_4Fk5z4KzHBfs-7MykWMBY7O32c_RNCULu5OhqYc2JHgbSq/s1600/MB31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYYpQCUEhE4F3GEEf1BxzKxJfZE9yMyuwMT32ebqfP0XXYFJ4iwG1VVAABkqDmwkW4q1rlHZCULeqhVItl8buJAN5lvZVBm_4Fk5z4KzHBfs-7MykWMBY7O32c_RNCULu5OhqYc2JHgbSq/s640/MB31.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">The off-peak tourist season .... pristine beaches</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiad2ghBJ-dml0Vj4X8sQhWVZsXysE5xp_GOVJ0ZV2b9H9YQF3JcmaultknA23LRmxMtgFyjeGYVBrGoAHJ6WERQefvrAhd9aXAmWLOE_tPxIrN3nmhfVmoaRubMJZd26rxtwe2HgeMjJlR/s1600/MB32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiad2ghBJ-dml0Vj4X8sQhWVZsXysE5xp_GOVJ0ZV2b9H9YQF3JcmaultknA23LRmxMtgFyjeGYVBrGoAHJ6WERQefvrAhd9aXAmWLOE_tPxIrN3nmhfVmoaRubMJZd26rxtwe2HgeMjJlR/s640/MB32.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Vacant upmarket beach resorts - sadly experiencing mass tourist stayaways as a consequence of numerous travel advisories put out by western governments in the wake of an upswing in Al Shebaab terror attacks. </span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-81988729612184262292015-05-15T05:13:00.001-07:002015-05-15T05:13:30.100-07:00Malindi's Artful Crafters in Dire Straits<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Words and Picturess by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">The
socio-economic demise of Malindi’s crafters (painters, wood and stone carvers)
is just a part, at a specific coastal geographical location, of an insidious
Kenyan-wide challenge that has seen tourism related revenue decline in 2014 by an
‘official’ figure of 7.3% due to visitor no-shows. Precipitated by dramatic,
high profile, impact and mortality Al Shebaab perpetrated terrorist attacks
including the </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Westgate Shopping Mall</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">event in the Westlands district of
Nairobi in September 2013 (resulting in 67 deaths) and more recently, the 3
April 2015 attack at Garissa University (resulting in 148 deaths and scores of
injured and maimed) this does not auger well for Kenya’s second highest foreign-income
earner. Tea is the country’s largest foreign-income earner.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYjm-7Tj_pLWRpfNQyqNXrse_B8cOLaw-UVdKFRK_q3t4JMFiT-Wpz4_mT2Zqs222Dnq_BCs48Tp25ThZOJv9o8-JfrmwvLjbrDAR86ec0IsUxuin8e2eD9CeeLApYhaOWmwwkEiKEhJwB/s1600/MC3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYjm-7Tj_pLWRpfNQyqNXrse_B8cOLaw-UVdKFRK_q3t4JMFiT-Wpz4_mT2Zqs222Dnq_BCs48Tp25ThZOJv9o8-JfrmwvLjbrDAR86ec0IsUxuin8e2eD9CeeLApYhaOWmwwkEiKEhJwB/s640/MC3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kenya's Kamba people renowned for fine wood carving work and the mainstay of Malindi's Muungano Handicrafts</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVZAbS_meVPOt9y0xNt7Zb6y3-6yzMuCixP0k2Qwggf_ZTGMM3JTxowdsUT41hMphF4l80oH3O3wukdcgPfzZwvw0m51muYtydH50gJg7-JWo1iqSKB1xjqOjJ5hYApeMYVBKkx4iXMC3/s1600/MC1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVZAbS_meVPOt9y0xNt7Zb6y3-6yzMuCixP0k2Qwggf_ZTGMM3JTxowdsUT41hMphF4l80oH3O3wukdcgPfzZwvw0m51muYtydH50gJg7-JWo1iqSKB1xjqOjJ5hYApeMYVBKkx4iXMC3/s640/MC1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Jambo jambo bwana!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Following the latest attack, the Somali terrorist group
Al Shabaab renewed its threats to attack the domestic interests of countries
such as Kenya that are contributing military forces to the African Union
Mission in Somalia (AMISOM). A snapshot of current, foreign country online travel
advisories specifically to Kenya (by the governments of Canada, US, UK,
Australia and New Zealand) confirms that the situation and prospects for the
immediate future are, indeed, bleak. This is in spite of a recent Kenyan print
media report confirming that ‘the marketing budget for ailing tourism has been
increased six-fold as the country prepares to battle the effects of travel
alerts that have crippled the Kenyan tourism industry.’ Interestingly, the spread
of Ebola in West African nations was also cited as a contributory factor in the
decline of tourist visitors to Kenya in 2014/15.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9N9fFzCjP9AZ6nYDzBjF8X6qDUnuXGGftPROdCrRtSSyipBjDdJI4Zgi18JYnyfcMHTgqd_5ZYaWbhhNGUiN15K5S_S8dhSfqZvZSkVZNqwpayL47oZcsjKLMdCXp7gK4n-qOQqFbeod3/s1600/MT13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9N9fFzCjP9AZ6nYDzBjF8X6qDUnuXGGftPROdCrRtSSyipBjDdJI4Zgi18JYnyfcMHTgqd_5ZYaWbhhNGUiN15K5S_S8dhSfqZvZSkVZNqwpayL47oZcsjKLMdCXp7gK4n-qOQqFbeod3/s640/MT13.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Sign of the times! A government-funded billboard in the heart of Malindi flagging challenges that lie ahead with an insidious insurgency</strong></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Closer scrutiny of these travel
advisories is both an education in bureaucratic jargon and the harsh reality
facing Kenya generally and Malindi specifically. Foreign Affairs, Trade and
Development Canada advises against non-essential travel to the Eastleigh
neighbourhood of Nairobi (where several attacks have recently taken place) and
Mombasa for the time being (due to the current elevated threat of terrorism). Travel
to all compass points of neighboring ‘border’ countries ie Somalia, South Sudan
and Ethiopia is advised against.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4mogNST47RA7lTNVgtmHiZrmBQSAHof2H3nqDbftFjeMxRVuYKe1Z7vVCDi-a2tPOfXwxb1o6DqpGqnWbRIpps8aWkzfmAOvGYM7sA9nZUqOSmf9Ao0tVtil7sSZilUMm7PQDFz2g-mRG/s1600/MC9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4mogNST47RA7lTNVgtmHiZrmBQSAHof2H3nqDbftFjeMxRVuYKe1Z7vVCDi-a2tPOfXwxb1o6DqpGqnWbRIpps8aWkzfmAOvGYM7sA9nZUqOSmf9Ao0tVtil7sSZilUMm7PQDFz2g-mRG/s640/MC9.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Handiwork in Action!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSEu5GVCEtKW3aAZpBWF4j0hWpOfp8M6NrXCDjRCzFSmcPyKzjVgbrJ1E1uxaUVE6UsbrkFkpWkgLzSU3A2JOqg20GYXXbgy-2GIhC762nxg9Pw7cbusHzo0Sny0Wxn0QDbrnICF1NRUD/s1600/MC2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSEu5GVCEtKW3aAZpBWF4j0hWpOfp8M6NrXCDjRCzFSmcPyKzjVgbrJ1E1uxaUVE6UsbrkFkpWkgLzSU3A2JOqg20GYXXbgy-2GIhC762nxg9Pw7cbusHzo0Sny0Wxn0QDbrnICF1NRUD/s640/MC2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Wood carvings galore </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The British UK Foreign and
Commonwealth Office (FCO) advise against all but essential travel to:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: justify; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;">areas within 60km of the
Kenya-Somali border<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Garissa County<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;">the Eastleigh area of
Nairobi<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Lamu County and those
areas of Tana River County north of the Tana river itself<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: justify; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;">within 15km of the coast
from the Tana River down to and including Tiwi; this area includes Mombasa
Island, Moi International Airport (including transit through the airport), <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Malindi</b>, Kilifi and Watamu</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span> </div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Tvf1HjhWu8qnnqCKm3DFXhOxMkeivCk-XNHFqM9f-x5QSc5s8v88yzUOKLRjCm7iqq5uSQBvf6vHo_hgiCTiFX4uGImS3Uq7CUO1XcYIF3UaHt6vFGiMyqDrDRw8274qwN6Qor-iHrcy/s1600/MC8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Tvf1HjhWu8qnnqCKm3DFXhOxMkeivCk-XNHFqM9f-x5QSc5s8v88yzUOKLRjCm7iqq5uSQBvf6vHo_hgiCTiFX4uGImS3Uq7CUO1XcYIF3UaHt6vFGiMyqDrDRw8274qwN6Qor-iHrcy/s640/MC8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Raw materials are sourced predominantly from within the area with an emphasis on sustainable resource utilization</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3gBPAjH3SgydvH7V-4VHE-1O7p6xi6HLFgOVx8vJJoV-xvt1IHztTX6fwWyoNFoBLmGjOWAI-sPGSrDN8MJUu342Et_hyGp32ex9xSrYmMcGWMEx8Dody_a9-_mlUeFlxgkx_77gjmHv/s1600/MC10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3gBPAjH3SgydvH7V-4VHE-1O7p6xi6HLFgOVx8vJJoV-xvt1IHztTX6fwWyoNFoBLmGjOWAI-sPGSrDN8MJUu342Et_hyGp32ex9xSrYmMcGWMEx8Dody_a9-_mlUeFlxgkx_77gjmHv/s640/MC10.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Work station with a difference - Swahili time and location</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9E5deyOxJSuiLF_F1nsnMVLTjAGI2sIgdTtdELq2y3YDQFGWmqjVqPdY-e5RKqoLBcXzMgNpN_31gdrYczRBEVMe9gOwkLkLxUPXWcvqbwq__ALw5nhyphenhyphenXGI8mN9gqLKLqlq-7HB9ec1lL/s1600/MC4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9E5deyOxJSuiLF_F1nsnMVLTjAGI2sIgdTtdELq2y3YDQFGWmqjVqPdY-e5RKqoLBcXzMgNpN_31gdrYczRBEVMe9gOwkLkLxUPXWcvqbwq__ALw5nhyphenhyphenXGI8mN9gqLKLqlq-7HB9ec1lL/s640/MC4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Malindi-based wood carvers support their tribal counterparts in Mombasa via the Akamba Handicraft Industry Cooperative which at one stage employed over 10, 000 people in the greater Mombasa area (<a href="http://www.akambahandicraftcoop.com/">www.akambahandicraftcoop.com</a>) </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span> <br />
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The US
Travel Warning is an emphatic and blanket one stating: ‘We issue a Warning when
we want you to consider very carefully whether you should go to a country at
all. Examples of reasons for issuing a Travel Warning might include unstable
government, civil war, ongoing intense crime or violence, or frequent terrorist
attacks. We want you to know the risks of traveling to these places and to strongly
consider not going to them at all. Travel Warnings remain in place until the
situation changes; some have been in effect for years.’</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"></span> </div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OOIwI88yRcVHLxlizI_SVcdmQzX1VYn8c27LMbIQmlSJhLf-zyNYw29KHa2h_hrDfUo_mE4HH_kSn5Bn7oHnAO6KtAfrv8NAKdBTBrN3GBOSReZF5YPG32SricqFmwKl7BWQcfHD36lD/s1600/MC6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OOIwI88yRcVHLxlizI_SVcdmQzX1VYn8c27LMbIQmlSJhLf-zyNYw29KHa2h_hrDfUo_mE4HH_kSn5Bn7oHnAO6KtAfrv8NAKdBTBrN3GBOSReZF5YPG32SricqFmwKl7BWQcfHD36lD/s640/MC6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Earthy East African community taking shape........</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"></span> </div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"></span> </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9N0k7XEYRB02lsXJhyphenhyphen__EDxwbyiSqEjUqczbPf0l6h9n184BeyjPWGBFN632MxvpXA6tLZsIQ-6DJW4BrZXDQeNGmog3HAnAy-YWAqHBUIcQPgJZmfl6mo3VwEp_j4QVCWH-UqAeUs2S/s1600/MC13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9N0k7XEYRB02lsXJhyphenhyphen__EDxwbyiSqEjUqczbPf0l6h9n184BeyjPWGBFN632MxvpXA6tLZsIQ-6DJW4BrZXDQeNGmog3HAnAy-YWAqHBUIcQPgJZmfl6mo3VwEp_j4QVCWH-UqAeUs2S/s640/MC13.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Work on a mortar for grinding local East African spices</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"></span> </div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
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<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="color: white; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;">The
Australians are as brusque as ever stating: N</span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">airobi, coastal
areas from Lamu county to Mombasa and outskirts – reconsider your need to
travel; Kenya overall – exercise a high degree of caution; and Border regions
with Somalia, South Sudan and Ethiopia – Do not travel.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span> </div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTfVPxVZM3R9vZ3dGrHsCUnUZWf5Whg58pfaQgUUdO1zVtdLK-6MsTrqP-UI2lI2N7o3fUvSScQHTMNhvnFxHwFkHm2UeBsilj-5HNfYmMyTp6ppqsYoI25phRDUl8sh_bQ2AU3mbDl8og/s1600/MC7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTfVPxVZM3R9vZ3dGrHsCUnUZWf5Whg58pfaQgUUdO1zVtdLK-6MsTrqP-UI2lI2N7o3fUvSScQHTMNhvnFxHwFkHm2UeBsilj-5HNfYmMyTp6ppqsYoI25phRDUl8sh_bQ2AU3mbDl8og/s640/MC7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Akamba artistry!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDs1EtFpc2q5wpJFZ2I7ez4uIBL8lZNIb5MX47sF6Lhukb6vo8m9i_GoNcDv8CHhhxbgEEc82ZxZGZE4TDwLMxt45PJS40gaGOCECOsp3w22_b9FezB2GFd7Cd3pKEWSu0avCd2iGtTJ3N/s1600/MC11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDs1EtFpc2q5wpJFZ2I7ez4uIBL8lZNIb5MX47sF6Lhukb6vo8m9i_GoNcDv8CHhhxbgEEc82ZxZGZE4TDwLMxt45PJS40gaGOCECOsp3w22_b9FezB2GFd7Cd3pKEWSu0avCd2iGtTJ3N/s640/MC11.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Wood carver from Democratic Republic of Congo working alongside fellow crafters</span></strong></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI8cctzh99yerrdSSdAJ0c4YQmOcicads1oPcrjGelJiZjUd2vr7alPg_L_pD9ksgYY6lhb7LEfvUJKg2Xcl7J8nnmdX3OCMaw4uDTH4DLp8RbYwjs0XVG10AasZr3BN2JwEXAEWFA_qrh/s1600/MC12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI8cctzh99yerrdSSdAJ0c4YQmOcicads1oPcrjGelJiZjUd2vr7alPg_L_pD9ksgYY6lhb7LEfvUJKg2Xcl7J8nnmdX3OCMaw4uDTH4DLp8RbYwjs0XVG10AasZr3BN2JwEXAEWFA_qrh/s640/MC12.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The array of Akamba wood carving skills is exceptional and the transformation from raw timber to finished polished product is extraordinary</span></strong></td></tr>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">The Kiwis conclude with: </span></span></span><span lang="EN" style="color: white; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">there
is <b>high risk</b> to your security in the cities of Nairobi and Mombasa due
to the ongoing threat from terrorism and we advise against all tourist and
other non-essential travel to these cities. We continue to receive reports that
terrorists are planning attacks in Nairobi and Mombasa. The 2013 attack on the
Westgate Mall in Nairobi and a series of incidents and attacks in 2014 continue
to indicate there is an ongoing threat from terrorism in these locations. There
is <b>some risk</b> to your security elsewhere in Kenya due to the threat from
terrorism, kidnapping, violent crime and civil unrest and we advise a high
degree of caution.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHqQk4e75D5feLfriRuuniM7InsRWaUyrrqRaDMNYO93bO0fOg4fC1RrMj18t5QxktSsrjntD_Qnil5K6jJRDoBJeOmDRsV9waDNfWZbnaJTiiquIEgoISesgs0fTdA0uhaFB-B1yJyhru/s1600/MC21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHqQk4e75D5feLfriRuuniM7InsRWaUyrrqRaDMNYO93bO0fOg4fC1RrMj18t5QxktSsrjntD_Qnil5K6jJRDoBJeOmDRsV9waDNfWZbnaJTiiquIEgoISesgs0fTdA0uhaFB-B1yJyhru/s320/MC21.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A 3-legged palm wood stool</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifrU3Av4Ye-dbjnLmxnbp563FNXAQerlMr4aJA28i5MIOlKTsNi9gvCMsoonxV9Aqb5Joz-Ob5rvohtbKeZVDghj-rjaK2RA1gx21UwUZPA_oU3nqOav0YTiJQep3NwF0g1-jSwwTufAL6/s1600/MC24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifrU3Av4Ye-dbjnLmxnbp563FNXAQerlMr4aJA28i5MIOlKTsNi9gvCMsoonxV9Aqb5Joz-Ob5rvohtbKeZVDghj-rjaK2RA1gx21UwUZPA_oU3nqOav0YTiJQep3NwF0g1-jSwwTufAL6/s320/MC24.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Unique palm wood grain </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMIso3t_EmpOg6nR2Osd5bSAhjn4ftgrREyoP67wg9YsuOdmqfTBoQEaSn1wsYQ1bpU7d-MKYyGTM58Yv7OQ63TCUGWGdTZkVcCpdH9YkRiM0qrFlSSTmhAj6jz3P5aDboU-BKeQ-GsGZ/s1600/MC5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMIso3t_EmpOg6nR2Osd5bSAhjn4ftgrREyoP67wg9YsuOdmqfTBoQEaSn1wsYQ1bpU7d-MKYyGTM58Yv7OQ63TCUGWGdTZkVcCpdH9YkRiM0qrFlSSTmhAj6jz3P5aDboU-BKeQ-GsGZ/s640/MC5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Stock in abundance at the Malindi showroom of Muungano Handicrafts</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span><span lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span><span lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span> </div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A sobering set of
conclusions – if hardcore, die-hard, rugger-bugger Aussies and Kiwis are
limiting their travel to Kenya then there is little wonder that there is a
general stay-away from most countries. Secondly, after the fact and travel too
many above mentioned areas, I did indeed feel like a lonely-planet traveler to
the Kenyan coastline – potentially also a product of the off peak and rainy
season. In all my naivety and possibly, stupidity, I never once felt unsafe and
would not have had it any other way.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM1f06omEjOLEwCLDX_41vCkexvhGDasIvtg88GsugBkpQusRAQe6SvKKni_VvdYL_oSXg0Qk88mFNaVJ5AE0NtePSXRL3Qxw3AM6o2FJFc8-52ludgfHJJqQFvDkMSQcy_1FHnXvRHPHV/s1600/MC22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM1f06omEjOLEwCLDX_41vCkexvhGDasIvtg88GsugBkpQusRAQe6SvKKni_VvdYL_oSXg0Qk88mFNaVJ5AE0NtePSXRL3Qxw3AM6o2FJFc8-52ludgfHJJqQFvDkMSQcy_1FHnXvRHPHV/s640/MC22.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Quintessential East Africa - definitely Kenya!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Wx6kQJpYlKby0MBDT7NzmZQflLUSZhJgcq2Mgqu192oQxG0Njrx64hHXwrb9yN586XORHiDEmarKEbWaxe3z_0Cd1tao4x1w6Ob3UfIn0q6ycU45IgN4FI_w_2-LrOh2QJhEBfHcTqFp/s1600/MC23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Wx6kQJpYlKby0MBDT7NzmZQflLUSZhJgcq2Mgqu192oQxG0Njrx64hHXwrb9yN586XORHiDEmarKEbWaxe3z_0Cd1tao4x1w6Ob3UfIn0q6ycU45IgN4FI_w_2-LrOh2QJhEBfHcTqFp/s640/MC23.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A riotous amalgamation of colour, texture, motion and subjects!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having dispensed with the
histrionics, let’s revert to the real issue of Malindi’s crafters and how they
are impacted by the latest downturn in the tourism industry. The Kamba people
of Kenya (also called Akamba or Wakamba) make up 11% of the country’s
population (3<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">rd</span></sup>, 4<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> or 5<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> largest ethnic
group in Kenya of 48 – source dependent) are renowned for their fine work in
wood carving, basketry and pottery</span>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo-lDxZkjNT2obpVM21_CM697HFZufvxMLcN__9ZrKWJtGrpBrWDnJes-ap6E4KRz6jL1QMdjUnCXGyGS_x3QyITL2FSRIlGfGPq1ryOo7PG48hkypYnYwBG-kZT5JjMLeNB3TPcLNDTyw/s1600/MC17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo-lDxZkjNT2obpVM21_CM697HFZufvxMLcN__9ZrKWJtGrpBrWDnJes-ap6E4KRz6jL1QMdjUnCXGyGS_x3QyITL2FSRIlGfGPq1ryOo7PG48hkypYnYwBG-kZT5JjMLeNB3TPcLNDTyw/s640/MC17.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kenyan safaris - surf 2 turf!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjM7gwg7tTX997kOxdEqlNgcJhqjhaYZTLWiDVxWyHRzmk78givzxaMe3a7-Homu61hAKXeHfMtlHbi4z0l-0_qbNeqX-xQwKoGtfsWqAyEzqRr1cdz8MHuMUlYEkXw7XQp2kOMNwGA8Ur/s1600/MC15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjM7gwg7tTX997kOxdEqlNgcJhqjhaYZTLWiDVxWyHRzmk78givzxaMe3a7-Homu61hAKXeHfMtlHbi4z0l-0_qbNeqX-xQwKoGtfsWqAyEzqRr1cdz8MHuMUlYEkXw7XQp2kOMNwGA8Ur/s640/MC15.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The artist and man at the centre of it all - Davis Kebabe Mochama - <a href="mailto:dkebabe@gmail.com">dkebabe@gmail.com</a> - Malindi Tourist Market</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg01cBbS3iDvBD9XQhj8ygHXnNKgWc11FxYQU4VhEVFagoeFf3CPZ6MU2xjHoVIiL6puzcbiPvuL8w7MYikCarHpdIYpPwxBTKRoOpWKnUznTvjYsQyhBE-e2J3BJWIaCcEVzSNYBeXd0Gk/s1600/MC16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg01cBbS3iDvBD9XQhj8ygHXnNKgWc11FxYQU4VhEVFagoeFf3CPZ6MU2xjHoVIiL6puzcbiPvuL8w7MYikCarHpdIYpPwxBTKRoOpWKnUznTvjYsQyhBE-e2J3BJWIaCcEVzSNYBeXd0Gk/s640/MC16.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Uniquely East African!</strong></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many members of Malindi’s
Muungano Handicrafts (tel. 042-31967 & cell. 072 226 4843 and 073 380 2615)
are Akamba and their ‘cooperative’ have been practicing their craft and plying
a successful trade therein for many years. An abundantly stocked showroom is
testimony to this but because of declining market demand for artistic pieces (dwindling
tourists locally as well as in Mombasa and Nairobi) they are now required to
turn they handiwork and energies to lower paying, mass ‘production line’ work
churning out cooking utensils including spoons and pestles and mortars. With a
trend in declining sales its easy to see why a younger Akamba generation are
perhaps reluctant to enter into the tradition and craft based on emerging
realities and the fact that newly developed skills may soon become redundant.</span> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEyRlSKnu5mGn0KzYwVHIzzwGaN5TPzR2kj9U8w-tEFkr8etDkxrlsbt7Rj-GLJVmb_8Cf6q-JiDBnTj26YwVhJXXK4rSG-4-VvkkW_1ZSR2s0u6YPaxLpA4IcJWC5ce5wUYwIG8wSKtEU/s1600/MC19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEyRlSKnu5mGn0KzYwVHIzzwGaN5TPzR2kj9U8w-tEFkr8etDkxrlsbt7Rj-GLJVmb_8Cf6q-JiDBnTj26YwVhJXXK4rSG-4-VvkkW_1ZSR2s0u6YPaxLpA4IcJWC5ce5wUYwIG8wSKtEU/s640/MC19.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Silky soap stone carvings by James Matiro - Tabako Curio Shop No.35 - Malindi Tourist Market</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR3HY1MVqoE3wt-hny5n-X0n0HVYGhOQ5H5TclCMvVAvsKunXuTNet4YrF8ZwL44MSGonQRKb9NmHkaqEAtM492wfzFBMBH5qaH-yp6LHlgAQ2JhkVKK3yhvGTdALXw8gj2i3TmxlQQg6v/s1600/MC26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR3HY1MVqoE3wt-hny5n-X0n0HVYGhOQ5H5TclCMvVAvsKunXuTNet4YrF8ZwL44MSGonQRKb9NmHkaqEAtM492wfzFBMBH5qaH-yp6LHlgAQ2JhkVKK3yhvGTdALXw8gj2i3TmxlQQg6v/s640/MC26.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">James Matiro - <a href="mailto:jamesmatiro@gmail.com">jamesmatiro@gmail.com</a> proudly displays his artwork at the Malindi Tourist Market</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuj-T98oV21tGKgaJgvuMEOdQEuQuR3yGR8lLXVY8RM1i-MBOy7yjuYZFif7WBgewAKf4NJ6Jf9ksAB_Pz4U9Zr8DJ2OrhGZr3SwqCLK32n9mAu8D5Kt332Vy9CWgLWQdWeTUSAufEwDqd/s1600/MC20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuj-T98oV21tGKgaJgvuMEOdQEuQuR3yGR8lLXVY8RM1i-MBOy7yjuYZFif7WBgewAKf4NJ6Jf9ksAB_Pz4U9Zr8DJ2OrhGZr3SwqCLK32n9mAu8D5Kt332Vy9CWgLWQdWeTUSAufEwDqd/s640/MC20.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Walk right in ..... colouful characters and artistry amassed at the Malindi Tourist Market</span></strong><br />
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"></span></strong><br />
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"></span></strong> </td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My meagre contribution is
to draw attention to their plight and play a small role in ‘promoting’ their
unique craft. The Malindi Tourist Market, located at the main town waterfront, faces
an identical predicament – having flourished under a tourist boom they are now
facing an industry that could be going bust – and very soon indeed.</span> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Geoffrey Shop No. 13 Malindi Tourist Market</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A deserted and desolate Malindi Tourist Market waiting for returning droves of tourists and better times</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-44200037327788682242015-04-25T02:11:00.001-07:002015-04-27T10:55:30.577-07:00100 Sea-Changed Days<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">In
Australia it appears as if more is made of change (monumental or less so) and
its associated implications than elsewhere including South Africa (change and
xenophobia central). It’s to the extent that the concept of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sea change </i>(also a profound transformation,
translation, conversion, metamorphosis, about-face reversal), courtesy of wider
Australian society and especially the media, did not feature in my functional vocabulary
until fairly recently. There is clearly a pre-occupation with the term, change
processes and plethora of conventional / illegal ‘change’ coping mechanisms. Its
so topical that its ‘serialized’ on public television in the reality TV genre
depicting, dramatically and glamorously, how couples often nearing retirement handle
their respective sea changes or meno-paused. Rooted to their lazy-bloke arm
chairs, one can only imagine the running commentary provided by the high
definition, fish-bowl seeing public as they try and get to grips with this
unfamiliar and unnerving portent. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Sense-Surround mountains of Kabul decked out in a final sprinkling of snow</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Afghanistan's marked seasons and the transition from one to another was always a revelation - a fascinating mood barometer and a stark reminder of how closely we are anchored in the bio-physical environment despite our hi-tech lives </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Australia
has escaped, partly due to its geographical isolation – we’re all right mate -
where the bloody hell are you phenomena, most of the significant change that
has reverberated throughout the international community of late. The sum total
of Australia’s recent change events are the steady procession of and ‘Italianesque
revolving door’ Prime Ministers; creative ‘stimulation’ and financial ‘fixing’
of the economy which has enabled the country to generally avoid both GFCs;
battening down of the hatches by the Abbott government on the asylum seeker
issue; a flirtation with and knee-jerk reaction to growing, global Islamic
fundamentalism and a real recession that is beginning to bite as a consequence
of the resource boom gone to bust due to the Chinese juggernaut grinding to a ‘ticking
over’ status.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Final few months in Laskar Gah - Helmand with family</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A bygone but not forgotten era that enriched our lives immeasurably </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">I
pen <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">100 Sea Changed Days</i> in this
context and that typically of elected or self-appointed Heads of State (HoS)
that are à la mode report-carded on their conduct, governance and delivery
within the first few months in office. Whereas I’m not exactly a HoS, I
nevertheless consider my recent, personal life-changes quite dramatic and worth
waxing over. One hundred days represents something very different for me – my
sanity and reality check – letting go ever so reluctantly, consolidation and
re-building with great anticipation and hope – embracing and celebrating ‘privileged’
change.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Homecoming in many more ways than one but also an enlightening illustration of how commonplace the global 'diaspora' phenomenon actual is where South Africans, unsurprisingly, are staking a strong 'excellence' claim </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">I
left my landlocked and beloved Afghanistan in mid-January and tele-ported to
east Africa – exchanging an Afghan winter with snow shrouded, wrap-around Mountains
of Kabul (approx. 1800m amsl) for the endless summers of Somalia – to be
precise seawind-sprayed and sun-bleached Mogadishu.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More
importantly, I’m back after a hiatus of almost a decade and with Africa
teetering on the brink of the much vaunted but now passé renaissance or a revolution
- a new and different ‘total onslaught’ (Boko Haram, Al Shabab and a greater,
general restlessness et al). With eyes averted and attention focused on the continent
- it’s arguably the best place to be right now. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Close of the Horn of Africa (East) - MIA - Mogadishu International Airport bathed in twilight</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">One of many self-contained compounds that dominate MIA - Mogadishu city can be viewed mid-ridge</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Not
so different from Afghanistan, historically and culturally Somalia operates off
an antique system of ‘hosts’ and ‘guests’ promoting ethic and tribal
co-existence, tolerance/integration and harmony countrywide. There is no doubt that
past annexation and international interference has knocked this orientation
somewhat awry but the fundamentals are still in place. Strange though, that
after all these years and experience the international community still
struggles with the notion of being a good and exemplary ‘guest’ (a recipient of
hospitality, specifically someone staying by invitation at the house of
another). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The well worn MIA exercise track flanked by the ocean on one side and runway on the other</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">The
ever so profound changes don’t end there either. I long for the daily,
especially dawn and dusk, inner soul and core-comforting call to prayer with
its well-known regularity, cadence, pitch and reverence, so real and at your
windowsill in Kabul, Lashkar Gah and Kandahar. At our Mogadishu International
Airport (MIA) location we are cloistered in compounds so distant from the
hustle and bustle of authentic Mogadishu life and the call to prayer is
disappointedly disembodied - but a distant and drowned out promise. Life on
MIA’s tarmac and under the flight path of countless aircraft is fascinating and
frustrating at the same time. Security, road closures and gridlock paranoia-fueled
trips to KIA light-years in advance of Kabul flight departures are replaced by
leisurely and far more relaxed non-events. Being on the flight-line, as it were, is a perk not to be taken for granted.The lingering and wintery Kabul
cough is a thing of the past and Mogadishu is constantly caressed by
exceptional quality and smog-free airy, alternating sea-breezes. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7NLNp-nxoWmfr8U9qTzQAC84UwMRmX4hOVo3URxGWZkGhnS8B_XHPoO7yxCTywJCazhop3t8Rrz7C6-IrC_vZ2wn_57pGkuaPYNszIhhX1gC0eKWFjQo-V1XB8fVSPdhElWj7iEkVjk4/s1600/mog1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7NLNp-nxoWmfr8U9qTzQAC84UwMRmX4hOVo3URxGWZkGhnS8B_XHPoO7yxCTywJCazhop3t8Rrz7C6-IrC_vZ2wn_57pGkuaPYNszIhhX1gC0eKWFjQo-V1XB8fVSPdhElWj7iEkVjk4/s1600/mog1.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Final approach to Mogadishu - endless surf, sand and sun!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQpJZhomqWQFI_YSl54d1_RemQ6uNyjNU4-Zmbmq1evrTAbC79rhjJ2DG_qnJx2HPYdIQs8nW08btfxYWt3wqTH4taSmMLAI302CtUwfqP89kHjoeZvEGimpg4tQ-oWcNx5169BJUbF46/s1600/MIA3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQpJZhomqWQFI_YSl54d1_RemQ6uNyjNU4-Zmbmq1evrTAbC79rhjJ2DG_qnJx2HPYdIQs8nW08btfxYWt3wqTH4taSmMLAI302CtUwfqP89kHjoeZvEGimpg4tQ-oWcNx5169BJUbF46/s1600/MIA3.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Another day done and dusted</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Other
changes include my friendships and social network – I’ve traded ISAF/NATO and
the Taliban for the African Union (AU) and the exotically sounding AMISOM
(African Union Mission to Somalia) and Al Shebab although research reveals that
there is a strong familial / alumni link between the Afghan and Somali Al Qaeda
affiliates. The </span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">22,000-strong AU force that includes troops from Burundi,
Djibouti, Ethiopia, Kenya and Uganda is particularly conspicuous for me due to
the absence of pale-faces although Europeans are represented, in a sprinkling,
specifically in strategic / military advisory roles. The Italians are by far
the largest group – what would we do without them?? </span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">They certainly add a touch of glamour
and plenty of drama. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUvYWXgsGZg-EwO4l8iLKxNubS0OyGq64avMCI7UbD6NUM4a9Ky0gQ88pCBNyawzrpWMGxsrhKQZ7nH5jCK5b8R5bzLfi9kxuiayjmnJLJP0pbw1hna03f2B5S18Mqro651MrLE1uSp7w8/s1600/10732459_10204274539839577_1746135466_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUvYWXgsGZg-EwO4l8iLKxNubS0OyGq64avMCI7UbD6NUM4a9Ky0gQ88pCBNyawzrpWMGxsrhKQZ7nH5jCK5b8R5bzLfi9kxuiayjmnJLJP0pbw1hna03f2B5S18Mqro651MrLE1uSp7w8/s1600/10732459_10204274539839577_1746135466_o.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Village people - Kabul - most now cast to the four corners of the world</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXXdHTbN7iCwSMeENJhmMyfYYEZBCkRYeZwktqrl7cagQe0BPYYFDuLSqMM0DQWtK_LFwpi9QWcu3RJk-N4RQzhA-_7orx9AEKIRvmqcE0gMn1PfoYX776jpLW1snZ76BXmJl9fg9jkOIs/s1600/OPM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXXdHTbN7iCwSMeENJhmMyfYYEZBCkRYeZwktqrl7cagQe0BPYYFDuLSqMM0DQWtK_LFwpi9QWcu3RJk-N4RQzhA-_7orx9AEKIRvmqcE0gMn1PfoYX776jpLW1snZ76BXmJl9fg9jkOIs/s1600/OPM.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">With colleagues from the Office of the Prime Minister - Federal Government of Somalia</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">In stark contrast, UN agencies in Somali
are directly targeted by Al Shabab as ‘enemies of the state and people’, a deed
made blatantly clear recently when UNICEF colleagues were targeted in an horrific
suicide bombing attack in Puntland, northern Somalia. The same agencies operate
relatively openly and freely in Afghanistan and any per chance or ‘accidental’ targeting
is described, in military parlance, as collateral damage.</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUyKzO76JzDX3KEBZDmn440vYLzuWll2bZ055oS_V4k1LepNaVxd-PHUy8FdCzUqgtrTVRq0LvaZRpAwfrnqjszvQzp44rgkK9V6zVCH1pnPO4O050AKexNQkCrtx7CUp-2uJgAjMPi8CU/s1600/mog2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUyKzO76JzDX3KEBZDmn440vYLzuWll2bZ055oS_V4k1LepNaVxd-PHUy8FdCzUqgtrTVRq0LvaZRpAwfrnqjszvQzp44rgkK9V6zVCH1pnPO4O050AKexNQkCrtx7CUp-2uJgAjMPi8CU/s1600/mog2.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A jet prearing for take off amongt flotsam fringing the airport apron </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Generally,
boyz will be boyz the world over – still puffed and pumped up (take your pick …
self-importance, flatulence, testosterone, steroids, whey / protein shakes,
Tusker Malt or Castle Lager and ego) and the pissing competitions rarely differ
although the ‘boyz from da hood’ are far more laid back and relaxed, as only
Africans can be. I personally revel in all things African and celebrate my re-discovered
Africanism. Being surrounded by so many enigmatic southern Africans, especially
Afrikaans-spruiking country-folk, is very special. All manner of rugby is once again on the menu, after a drought of 3 years, including the 2015 World Rugby Cup - Go Bokke! The gals are numerically inferior but that’s
essentially where it ends. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQFk5BVhwVKY2Ngk9qvBgkCnVF1RypdrRvXbbn_CI_157jxBFtfWsmzzTDhgeTYkvdmpwSFlNqrOU8Liop4CmfQFg4O7sgwuFRFGCSHs7EyBYhdk8PvkcLmDx5d3K7DL9IHhG1vj0SnKot/s1600/mog4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQFk5BVhwVKY2Ngk9qvBgkCnVF1RypdrRvXbbn_CI_157jxBFtfWsmzzTDhgeTYkvdmpwSFlNqrOU8Liop4CmfQFg4O7sgwuFRFGCSHs7EyBYhdk8PvkcLmDx5d3K7DL9IHhG1vj0SnKot/s1600/mog4.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Exploring exposed rocks and wave-cut platforms adjacent to MIA</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipca7rOA3DIuTClm29ftlITQcJL-zZYzbTnIHrUtMyvSSzZfx_HJrJPlKn6Vgn0r7sOCQ6QxmO2z_Jyv8590yPYlleZsr0C4SIJeblIQWTKRae8EZby9dcvvnItsYpWAv8JuK21l58O826/s1600/mog3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipca7rOA3DIuTClm29ftlITQcJL-zZYzbTnIHrUtMyvSSzZfx_HJrJPlKn6Vgn0r7sOCQ6QxmO2z_Jyv8590yPYlleZsr0C4SIJeblIQWTKRae8EZby9dcvvnItsYpWAv8JuK21l58O826/s1600/mog3.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Gill-netted reef fish</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheORevjG03ePyrN4lyQmWSXdjPwtJ1Hg6CIC3zBcAA4_gJlcLFLVxpfNZi-ES2F2475qsAH_Ukpla9a8ZxtLxJKATXXxy892GuuFpmdw3OSEvDAoTR8LfhfFLzry8zbUIH53pIxHzeVZyZ/s1600/mog5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheORevjG03ePyrN4lyQmWSXdjPwtJ1Hg6CIC3zBcAA4_gJlcLFLVxpfNZi-ES2F2475qsAH_Ukpla9a8ZxtLxJKATXXxy892GuuFpmdw3OSEvDAoTR8LfhfFLzry8zbUIH53pIxHzeVZyZ/s1600/mog5.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mogadishu coastline at low tide exposing off-shore reefs, wave-cut platforms and sea-caves</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Earliest
and vivid in-country recollections include: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Running
the Mob-adishu gauntlet through dusty refuse and rubble-strewn streets where
life has hardly skipped a beat for generations…. in nondescript AVs escorted
though by very noticeable pickups bristling with Kalashnikov-toting private
Somalian security contractors. It’s a stop-start, helter-skelter affair …. barely a
few melodramatic, manic moments but enough to guarantee freebie cortisol-adrenal-infused
highs. Until the next one – perhaps in a week or fortnight! </span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Shattered and battle-scarred infrastructure - old and new-world memorials - full circle .... black hawks down white doves up; frenzied and football fanatical youth scrapping it out in super-dusty bowls spectatored on by lethargic militia and aged-toddlers <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Old
rhythms of a new life in a country and society dubbed as ‘the most notorious
failed state.’ An explosion of outer and other worldly expectations with little
management thereof. Somali entrepreneurial endeavor - vibrant, flourishing and opportunistic exported globally from Cape Town, to Cairo, to London and beyond - a die-hard diaspora like no other</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Transient,
millisecond voyagers greeted by a 'knowing' nation - with the joke on us as we kid ourselves that the longer we stay the more we 'purportedly' know..... </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>DNA-programmed resilience having spent so many nomadic years in an almost eternal, inhospitable wilderness</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Mistakes
to be repeated, by countless Neville’s, <em>ad nauseam</em> with reckless, gay and
arrogant abandon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">UNSOM digs in MIA </span></strong> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Select Icons providing some sense in a sea of change!</strong></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Digs - rudimentary refuge and place to becalm</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">One of many wide open bays adjacent to MIA with Mogadishu city on the horizon</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Raw 'elemental' energy is enough to transcend our own individual sea-changes </span></strong><br />
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0Mogadishu, Somalia2.033333 45.3500000000000231.9063854999999998 45.188638500000025 2.1602805 45.511361500000021tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-71828091737768335012014-12-05T02:03:00.000-08:002014-12-05T02:03:45.223-08:00Just Cap-(tion) It!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Words, captions and pictures by Barry Greville-Eyres</span> </h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Cap-(tion) It! Make an intellectual statement by putting creative and descriptive captions to your 'social media' pics and images</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-effects-shadow-align: topleft; mso-effects-shadow-alpha: 40.0%; mso-effects-shadow-angledirection: 2700000; mso-effects-shadow-anglekx: 0; mso-effects-shadow-angleky: 0; mso-effects-shadow-color: black; mso-effects-shadow-dpidistance: 1.5pt; mso-effects-shadow-dpiradius: 3.0pt; mso-effects-shadow-pctsx: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-pctsy: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-themecolor: dark1; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-align: center; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-compound: simple; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dash: solid; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dpiwidth: 0pt; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-join: round; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-linecap: flat; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-pctmiterlimit: 0%; mso-style-textoutline-type: none; mso-themecolor: text1;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-effects-shadow-align: topleft; mso-effects-shadow-alpha: 40.0%; mso-effects-shadow-angledirection: 2700000; mso-effects-shadow-anglekx: 0; mso-effects-shadow-angleky: 0; mso-effects-shadow-color: black; mso-effects-shadow-dpidistance: 1.5pt; mso-effects-shadow-dpiradius: 3.0pt; mso-effects-shadow-pctsx: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-pctsy: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-themecolor: dark1; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-align: center; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-compound: simple; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dash: solid; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dpiwidth: 0pt; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-join: round; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-linecap: flat; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-pctmiterlimit: 0%; mso-style-textoutline-type: none; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"> Two pet hates, probably more specific to the social than the conventional media, have galvanized me into muttering on in this regard. Simply put, I go apoplectically-ballistic when I come across poor quality and or captionless pictures and images 'randomly' posted with great regularity. This lowers the tone, not to mention the intellectual copy and the raison d' etre for the posting in
the first place.</span> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Enough said!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Afghanistan's premier and first protected area the Band-e Amir National Park - incredible landscapes in 3D</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Afghan cultural custodians, environmental stewards and game rangers employed at the Band-e Amir National Park - Bamyan Province</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Color tones, textured terrain and stark desolation under big skies - Band-e Amir National Park, Bamyan Province Afghanistan </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-effects-shadow-align: topleft; mso-effects-shadow-alpha: 40.0%; mso-effects-shadow-angledirection: 2700000; mso-effects-shadow-anglekx: 0; mso-effects-shadow-angleky: 0; mso-effects-shadow-color: black; mso-effects-shadow-dpidistance: 1.5pt; mso-effects-shadow-dpiradius: 3.0pt; mso-effects-shadow-pctsx: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-pctsy: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-themecolor: dark1; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-align: center; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-compound: simple; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dash: solid; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dpiwidth: 0pt; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-join: round; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-linecap: flat; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-pctmiterlimit: 0%; mso-style-textoutline-type: none; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Little wonder social media has become the 'dumping' domain of drivel, scams, hucksters, whackos and megalomaniac notice boxes. Similarly, in the age of idiot-proof ‘aim and shoot’ digital cameras and image enhancing software it's inexcusable to serve up photo-slop.</span> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Here's looking at you........ and you too babe!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kokopo - East New Britain - Papua New Guinea part of the Pacific Ring of Fire highly susceptible to seismic activity including earthquakes and volcanic eruptions</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Under the Southern Cross, land of the Bird of Paradise and where you can <em>expect</em> the 'unexpected' - Papua New Guinea</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Ethnic, tribal, biological and linguistic diversity of Papua New Guinea is amongst the greatest globally</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">ColorFest! A demonstration and interpretation of Papua New Guinea's extraordinary diversity</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Summit Mt. Wilhelm - Simbu Province - Papua New Guinea</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-effects-shadow-align: topleft; mso-effects-shadow-alpha: 40.0%; mso-effects-shadow-angledirection: 2700000; mso-effects-shadow-anglekx: 0; mso-effects-shadow-angleky: 0; mso-effects-shadow-color: black; mso-effects-shadow-dpidistance: 1.5pt; mso-effects-shadow-dpiradius: 3.0pt; mso-effects-shadow-pctsx: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-pctsy: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-themecolor: dark1; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-align: center; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-compound: simple; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dash: solid; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dpiwidth: 0pt; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-join: round; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-linecap: flat; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-pctmiterlimit: 0%; mso-style-textoutline-type: none; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Likewise, although we all know that the SM emphasis is probably more on the SOCIAL side and less on the technical MEDIA, since most people are NOT blessed with psychic abilities or particularly vivid imaginations, to fill in the pictorial or descriptive blanks (5 W's and 1 H), I cannot fathom why people fail to satisfy the most basic of curiosities. Or is it that we have become so brain-dead and numbed by it all? Simply put - Why not just do it - or rather, caption your photographs?<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>United Nations Development Program (UNDP) - Afghanistan</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Fellow and faceless South Africans - once Iraq's gentle and caring infidels - saluting them, their professionalism and dedication yet respecting their privacy and confidentiality </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Roadmap Timor-Leste! </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-effects-shadow-align: topleft; mso-effects-shadow-alpha: 40.0%; mso-effects-shadow-angledirection: 2700000; mso-effects-shadow-anglekx: 0; mso-effects-shadow-angleky: 0; mso-effects-shadow-color: black; mso-effects-shadow-dpidistance: 1.5pt; mso-effects-shadow-dpiradius: 3.0pt; mso-effects-shadow-pctsx: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-pctsy: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-themecolor: dark1; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-align: center; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-compound: simple; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dash: solid; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dpiwidth: 0pt; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-join: round; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-linecap: flat; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-pctmiterlimit: 0%; mso-style-textoutline-type: none; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is, somewhat, worrisome that our modern, fast-paced existence is dominated by the social media which is typically overburdened with information; blitzed with all manner of video clips; excessive noise and clutter; and constant distraction. Even more disturbing is the fact that concentration spans are reduced to micro-bites as users gobble up, in Pacman fashion, the sensory barrage unleashed upon them by ‘sinister, unseen forces.’ This probably explains why users are ‘disabled’ to provide basic information through the use of creative captions.</span> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbABaFbwF989fVFdLBzEtvgV8kvdRHULC8sIxXtoiOoZTCN1md8Gp6589QvyWc5XLlfZuRvMnBKt8HxrD2E20EB_pFXQxkTQE67bh-l68sJ87W7LO7o3IEM30hXuAEUygJWlxqOl8DWo6M/s1600/wanted+crop+resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbABaFbwF989fVFdLBzEtvgV8kvdRHULC8sIxXtoiOoZTCN1md8Gp6589QvyWc5XLlfZuRvMnBKt8HxrD2E20EB_pFXQxkTQE67bh-l68sJ87W7LO7o3IEM30hXuAEUygJWlxqOl8DWo6M/s1600/wanted+crop+resized.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Breaking free from the legacy and lethargy that imprisons the people of Timor-Leste </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Timor-Leste's future! Waiting, with childlike innocence and enduring patience, for the journey to begin - how and when will we get their Maun?</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Three years and counting into the journey with no end in sight!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Leaders are dealers in Hope - we look towards ours to elevate our hopes and aspirations</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Even though we may not have the appropriate vehicle and the road may be mountainous and rocky we will maintain the faith!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">In my back yard! (IMBY) Paradise found and awaiting in Timor-Leste</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-effects-shadow-align: topleft; mso-effects-shadow-alpha: 40.0%; mso-effects-shadow-angledirection: 2700000; mso-effects-shadow-anglekx: 0; mso-effects-shadow-angleky: 0; mso-effects-shadow-color: black; mso-effects-shadow-dpidistance: 1.5pt; mso-effects-shadow-dpiradius: 3.0pt; mso-effects-shadow-pctsx: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-pctsy: 100.0%; mso-effects-shadow-themecolor: dark1; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-align: center; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-compound: simple; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dash: solid; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-dpiwidth: 0pt; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-join: round; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-linecap: flat; mso-style-textoutline-outlinestyle-pctmiterlimit: 0%; mso-style-textoutline-type: none; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whereas some of the classic, timeless adages that ‘every picture tells a story’ and or ‘a picture is worth a thousand words’ remain true to this day, I argue that a picture with a well-crafted caption or description completes or can significantly enhance a pictorial-story. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It can also be great fun playing around with and word-smithing captions to match an image - a crucial, new-age skill in our truncated and fast-paced world. The art is in narrowing the narrative sufficiently to ensnare attention and nurture enough interest for further, in-depth research, learning and knowledge attainment. </span> <o:p></o:p></span></span> </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Timor's rich, tais tapestry </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Southern Africa Fly Boyz of Fortune! Members of the international community that have contributed to the development of fragile and conflict affected states over many years</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Life beyond.....</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Royal Malaysian Police - Formed Police Unit - an important part of the peacekeeping UN Mission to Timor-Leste </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Exuberance of youth - reason enough to be smiling and optimistic!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The summit awaits - top shelf beers and celebrations</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-62009688676879561642014-11-15T06:08:00.000-08:002014-11-15T06:08:25.949-08:00Enduring Epiphany<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirTDMqXd31O6kaXHkZpbIl5eRbEOZ1z-wOPdamHv0Z3Qe77vF5waJeZde9ZDkpgtPN7ZCZfHlvV6vduwn51RwRn5UZ_xlkdwkbMDccxNt2crVYJ-SGueEhaqRKj59l33Zcu59V9gb842j7/s1600/Eph4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>Pics and Words by Barry Greville-Eyres </strong></span></div>
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<strong><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Epiphany</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"> Greek for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘Manifestation’ – An experience of sudden and striking realization</i>
(also WOW or AWESOME!)</span></strong></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Acropolis under siege by </span></strong><br />
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">marauding hoards of tick-box tourists from a visiting, luxury cruise liner </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">In spite of a fleeting, first time visit to Athens and two islands within the Cyclades group (Paros and Naxos) Greece and all things Greco have ‘grabbed’ me like no other travel destination. Likened to a favorite and well-worn item of footwear (KEENs or CROCs) or clothing (flannel winter PJs), Greece is a BEST fit – it’s easy, comfortable, warm and fuzzy and molds to the body and psyche instantaneously. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Respite and under the mantle of darkness the rock massif of the Acropolis settles, more comfortably, in for the night </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Near and distant views of greater Athens</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Rooftop views of urban Athens from the slopes of the Acropolis with Lycabettus Hill in the background</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Where it all or doesn't happen - Parliament - Athens</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">It’s changelessness; durable nature/culture and essential Element-als of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">earth</i>-soil, rocky mountains; <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">water</i>-azure Aegean sea and freshest ancient aquifers; <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">air</i>-the gamut of oceanic and land breezes and winds; and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">fire</i>-sun seared régime that resonate so resoundingly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most memorable and visceral are: pungent goat droppings and urea – bruised aromatic herbs and treacled pine resin – flowering jasmine and citrus – freshly baked bread/pastries – and grilled seafood wafts that have washed over, caressed and haunted my senses in a ‘sense-surrounded and emotional explosion’ reminiscent, collectively, of so many other times and places. A probe so sweet, profound and achingly delicate into the deepest recesses of the consciousness and soul – déjà vu perhaps?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Postcard perfect! Antiparos one of the smaller isles adjacent to Paros basks in the autumn sunshine </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Hiker's delight! The Byzantine Route is one of countless countryside walks that crisscross the Cyclades group of islands</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Gentleman from Paros pottering around</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Autumn on Golden Beach - Naxos. Shades and raptures of bougainvillea, oleander, plumbago and others </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Close up of Filoti's back streets - Naxos Island</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">More specifically, it’s the reverence, respect and the co-existence that prevails between the islanders and elements. Development generally seems to be moderate and fairly sustainable with due regard for aesthetic as well as environmental impacts. Perhaps it’s the less conscious similarities with my South African homeland or the ‘development practitioner of fortune’ lifestyle that we lead that leaves one yearning for some grounding and familiarity. Paros and Naxos provided this and much more – in addition to this <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">joie de vivre</i> or heightened sense of well-being is the fundamental issue of SPACE – spatial as well as head. It’s exceedingly rare to be ‘transported’ in totality – a realization that can be unnerving yet equally mystical.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Agia Marina or St. Marina is the first significant landmark on the ascent to Mt. Zas - Zeus departing from Filoti taking the clockwise route - a highly recommended hike</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Signage guiding one to various landmarks and hiking destinations</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Alas - little to do with my Greek Epiphany</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">An interesting plaque considering the origins of <em>democracy - rule by the people! </em></span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFp_MTOIQGMIo74zTANj2fTodelbGz2oh7UPKUSLhOHwJaBL0u_xsbvaUyKU-fww-x8QKjH4_2P7faxF6Vb_kKUqdBRS4LyR8ce0dVVGqyMTeIMiVHlKPuvrcZbzkbTgfJxVO1uGmSPAxT/s1600/Eph13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFp_MTOIQGMIo74zTANj2fTodelbGz2oh7UPKUSLhOHwJaBL0u_xsbvaUyKU-fww-x8QKjH4_2P7faxF6Vb_kKUqdBRS4LyR8ce0dVVGqyMTeIMiVHlKPuvrcZbzkbTgfJxVO1uGmSPAxT/s1600/Eph13.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Final ascent to Mt. Zas - Zeus Naxos Island on a clear, bright sunny day</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"> I love Greece’s reckless abandon or its ‘demo-craziness’ ….. a lifestyle demonstrated by the philosophy of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">symposion </i>- 'drinking together' - enjoying the famous triad of wine (including dining which more often than not is very fine, yet so simplistic), women and song. I observed this leisure and obvious pleasure on many occasions ……quaint, very old worldly and inspirational – as aspect missing from my personal life and something I can quite readily aspire to. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">My favorite hang out and people watching place - Monastiraki Square a major thoroughfare</span></strong></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZahwlG7yjxEgS1h2snXoFOFYDWZXRLzuMi2uDO-T9T1bq8z3T5AvXITieGR0sUHhaGoPPZMoYdbsR7dP2hmkcew4avt6WcjGI7Dypdv1uLwX1sudnr24zIGrMZ16-fCXmVLI8hdrsLw3/s1600/Eph14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Greeks appear to live life to the fullest - little conservatism there – seemingly the way always or perhaps more so a product of the more recent, economic recession and associated woes. No holding back....leisurely meal times, plenty of socializing. Little or no Prozac-popping here and hardly any indication of Stressed Georgios and or Marias. My and the older generation have scant regard for information and communication technology - no smart phones - with a decided preference to remain blissfully disconnected, dumb and uninformed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Essentially </span>a decidedly different lifestyle where smoking remains very fashionable, public and cuts across all demographic groups, alcohol is consumed heartily and responsibly and physical exercise seems to be something of an afterthought. Nevertheless, this lifestyle seems to promote and secure longevity of sorts.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Charming, gentle and friendly inhabitant of the mountain village of Danakos - Naxos Island</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">More village people from Danakos taking a breather from building terraces and retaining walls planted under grape vines</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Church of the Metamorphosis</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Portside Naxos - clean, clear simple lines</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Port of Naxos framed by the Gateway to Apollo - reputedly also the inspirational icon for National Geographic </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">On
Greek hospitality – it’s sincere but can be quite brusque at times. It
generally gets the job done and leaves one feeling at ease, at home and very welcome.
Service is far from overbearing but rather very businesslike and efficient. I
experienced little or no shortage of complimentary drinks and desserts but
suspect that this is rather part of a winning, entrepreneurial formula ensuring
many more, profitable patron returns. I found the extended trading hours
particularly for tavernas, restaurants and pubs very practical and liberating.
I’d strongly recommend going off the well beaten tourist track, whether on
the mainland or on the Greek isles as this is where you, too, can discover the archetypal
Greece and how you relate to this unique experience. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Serving international tourists and locals for decades </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfj1qjRv7R4xsEml68R4gc44oPu0yQ5Sk7S9SWEUoALRjHOm8Pn7pxIj93H9eFMdyxcvn362dreRXyOOve9Ps_kZcOsMR7Af79tfZzbqZBv5sKxHTlmyXA-lgwhwtjyJlx7ALuoo2saxYW/s1600/Eph24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfj1qjRv7R4xsEml68R4gc44oPu0yQ5Sk7S9SWEUoALRjHOm8Pn7pxIj93H9eFMdyxcvn362dreRXyOOve9Ps_kZcOsMR7Af79tfZzbqZBv5sKxHTlmyXA-lgwhwtjyJlx7ALuoo2saxYW/s1600/Eph24.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">On any given day, morning and afternoon, you'll be greeted by Petros at the Port of Naxos touting for business - I happened to be one of his very satisfied guests.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi5_FcW7aYW6k2541gVKMSM_zeaf2vcaBVJaemn_7UWI34GAforoy0fQZMpVNgodosY4VeTR7Tpt-Wlm-czIfGNL_vja9PALQws0DXvqkZlvJc5HWlMgrMNN6lFyBDrlRbJVsk0PhrUjBb/s1600/Eph24+apollonas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi5_FcW7aYW6k2541gVKMSM_zeaf2vcaBVJaemn_7UWI34GAforoy0fQZMpVNgodosY4VeTR7Tpt-Wlm-czIfGNL_vja9PALQws0DXvqkZlvJc5HWlMgrMNN6lFyBDrlRbJVsk0PhrUjBb/s1600/Eph24+apollonas.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">At the end of a comfortable two hour bus journey, on public transport, from the Port of Naxos you'll reach Apollonas on the northern tip of the island. The route traverses a number of spectacular mountain passes and takes you through villages perched precariously on the mountainsides </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBsLWFNFTWkKWyDaCHtDM2IQk6qz51aT3_QOQNp2NqC7hG8KQzcI32cM4JMKGMsPwwZeilFznbEQHGmw-mZhUzPkRn_HfVGl5CDt90FoDyCdKuWSQyeeWib8Y-RXL16pTMokKuuoFFAK-s/s1600/Eph25+apollonas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBsLWFNFTWkKWyDaCHtDM2IQk6qz51aT3_QOQNp2NqC7hG8KQzcI32cM4JMKGMsPwwZeilFznbEQHGmw-mZhUzPkRn_HfVGl5CDt90FoDyCdKuWSQyeeWib8Y-RXL16pTMokKuuoFFAK-s/s1600/Eph25+apollonas.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Apollonas - off the beaten track but a comfortable day outing from bustling Naxos </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">As rustic, traditional and historic as you can possibly get</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The rural countryside and adjacent villages on Naxos are punctuated with many places of worship ....</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTam3tAdWFC_2CZmndzhRIrsoXlQLOgGq7QB5GbVGCHYx8P83SduNVIJ_9h3EdLAHPM0QQMCguqACsLHIId_ugR0FrSSVO9orVWZB1j3JT19bhnsEwavPvcTsESWke_okbJc4YKfY4Arv/s1600/naoussa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTam3tAdWFC_2CZmndzhRIrsoXlQLOgGq7QB5GbVGCHYx8P83SduNVIJ_9h3EdLAHPM0QQMCguqACsLHIId_ugR0FrSSVO9orVWZB1j3JT19bhnsEwavPvcTsESWke_okbJc4YKfY4Arv/s1600/naoussa.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The dreamy portside village of Naoussa on the island of Paros</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">This pic simple does not do justice to this majestic, old oak tree that dominates the property and Taverna Calliope</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">This taverna served up the freshest and tastiest home-grown, organic Greek fried potato chips cooked in none other than the best, local olive oil. The local potato variety is sought all over Greece. It thrives in fields with plenty of sun and little water. The hamlet of Moni is in the background</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Once upon a time this animal drawn arrangement was used, presumably, to mill local cereal crops </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Above and below - starkly contrasting silhouettes depicting the march of time, technology and progress </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Most things on the Island of Naxos, invariably cast in rock and stone, have withstood the ravages of time and civilization </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Yet another place of worship, this time on the island of Paros dominates the village skyline of Lefkes</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Undoubtedly, love at first sight! Summing up and putting a wrap on my Greek Epiphany</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-69541177889906234862014-11-14T05:42:00.001-08:002014-11-14T05:42:40.575-08:00Greek Botanicals and Bounty!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Images and utterances by Barry Greville-Eyres </span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Star-studded shades, shapes and textures - plane to see and about to fall!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A serene and majestic 'Platanos' Plane tree keeps a watchful eye over the fountain-head at the mountainous village of Danakos - Naxos Island </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Pure as Pure! Life force and blood of the Greek Isles - an ancient artesian aquifer/spring dribbles and natters away to heart's content paying scant regard to passing pedestrian traffic en route to the summit of Mt. Zas - Zeus Naxos Island</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Produce of Greece - Naxos Island - 110% Certified Delicious </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Elemental - Sea, Soil and Soul food!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Local markets are a favorite 'must see' and hang out place able to enthrall endlessly and tell tales like no other...... </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Something about figs .... voluptuous, perky, succulent, sweet and sensuous as..... </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Sparkling ruby-granates!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Zestiest and Orangiest Oranges Ever!!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">And then there's the grounded nutty, wholesome and earthiness of Greece!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">All by the numbers....... </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Weekend market mayhem in Athens..... great to be a fly on the wall!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Tickled pinky orange - LOL!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Rainbow trout - fish out of fresh water - in an otherwise seafood market</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Presentation and size counts......</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Happy Fish Whisperer at a market near Monastiraki Square - Athens</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">The proof is in the taste - deep fried anchovies and sardines 'small fish' with Mediterranean greens including capers and olives </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Seafaring scuttle bug?</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Little or no backbones here ......</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Waste not, want not ..... cutlets of shark</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Fruit on the vine</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mountain village of Danakos - wholly self-reliant and existing harmoniously with the bio-physical environment </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Permaculture in practice</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Danakos - carving an existence out of the land</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">On Naxos' highland and midlands hundreds of free ranging goats and sheep are reared providing a unique environment for the culture/production of the finest Naxian cheeses. Graviera is one of Greek's most traditional table cheeses and since 1996 has earned the distinction of <u>Name Origin Protection </u>for its Graviera cow milk. Its a firm tasty cheese characterized by a pleasant paleness, while its body is very 'space like' filled with irregular holes.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Stone, hand built livestock enclosures - kraals - on the slopes of Mt. Zas - Zeus on Naxos Island</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Nestled in mountainous terrain close to Mt. Zas - Zeus is the bustling village of Filoti - Naxos Island. Vegetation is characteristically Mediterranean with olive, fig, oak, mulberry and Cyprus trees within the well-watered village confines </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A gall fruiting body - the red shiny ball - 'parasitizes' on the growing tips of this oak tree. New growth including buds and a developing acorn fruit is clear illustrated adjacent to the gall</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Cross-section of the developing gall clearly depicting the gall wasp grub or pupa at the centre</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Oak or acorn fruit and acorn caps from one of the more distinctive oak species found on the island of Naxos</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Spot this oak .... yet another endemic oak species found on Naxos Island</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Close up of fruit or acorns at various stages of maturity - exquisitely perfect!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Good Sir - reverence and respect - Old Man Olive Tree of the Land!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">You wild, wild thing!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-wylEsea8pkoxYA-vONTF2tfQ4VIcL4vikn9ehwoyZIjcqMHeOSxcfdCq1wGi06w74I6WqKGlRwOOV25zqPH1JWsFh3c0mCkIzgdbq1wVAsh9_1nci-eKz8M5-n-huLp3I7gMd74ZvrU/s1600/olea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-wylEsea8pkoxYA-vONTF2tfQ4VIcL4vikn9ehwoyZIjcqMHeOSxcfdCq1wGi06w74I6WqKGlRwOOV25zqPH1JWsFh3c0mCkIzgdbq1wVAsh9_1nci-eKz8M5-n-huLp3I7gMd74ZvrU/s1600/olea.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Yet Another Marvel of Botanical Creation!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Fruit of my arboreal labor. Approximately 40 000 olive trees are cultivated on Naxos Island ensuring the island's annual oil supply - obviously an ingredient fundamental for Greek cuisine</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Simplest yet so satisfying - Naxian staples! Arseniko is a hard, yellow very tasty mid-strength table cheese that is used primarily for grating or snacking on in the form of slices or wedges. It is made combining sheep and goat milk. </span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-13348247598516110972014-09-29T07:16:00.000-07:002014-09-30T10:50:09.693-07:00Scoring 10/10 Kerala - Southern India!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Text and pictures by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">Disembarking at Kochi, on an in-bound
flight from Dubai, as the only pale-face and Western international tourist
amongst countless ‘commuting’ Cochinites was, surely, an indication that I was
onto something very good! Early evidence of this was that whilst en route I was
invited to share a packed dinner with a young Indian couple and although I graciously
declined this offer (in favor of some quiet Kabul decompression time) this
unbridled act of hospitality and generosity set the tone for a cracking 10/10 –
and 10 sublime days in Kerala state.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">My Kerala at it's most vivid best! Little more to be said......</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Chai in motion - color, charm, character!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUkgA79CaL6jePBlZPEG7xTCCsNaII2cOU1WHat3FG4lk0elRPSGCa6hhBtco9ukVskQIhmCiyd7BdrTfhNl2m-v4FVBMOA0QYOEItXCbL3oOo_XjD3CvPaQhhH99Hw1CThUBDdhCa6LWW/s1600/Munnar+town2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUkgA79CaL6jePBlZPEG7xTCCsNaII2cOU1WHat3FG4lk0elRPSGCa6hhBtco9ukVskQIhmCiyd7BdrTfhNl2m-v4FVBMOA0QYOEItXCbL3oOo_XjD3CvPaQhhH99Hw1CThUBDdhCa6LWW/s1600/Munnar+town2.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Munnar under monsoon</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">The fact that I was in the unique
position to experience my own lonely planet in India – of sorts, was largely
attributed to the fact that, timing wise, we were still in the throes of the
monsoon and therefore off-peak tourist season. My driver and tour guide Ossey
(contactable directly on email </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><a href="mailto:Oswald3344@yahoo.co.in"><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">Oswald3344@yahoo.co.in</span></span></a><u><span style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">) </span></span></u><span style="color: #555555; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">was superb company though and
outstanding at his craft. He was particularly attuned to my ‘ridiculously
misplaced,’ Westernized road safety standards and concerns when encountering,
often head-on, the wild banshee, kamikaze-styled driving of his countrymen. I
also had the exceptional experience of ‘cruising’ Kerala in the company of many
domestic tourists from throughout India and as consequence of my paleness,
mad-dog South Africaness and aloneness was afforded immediate ‘celeb status’
without song, dance or toss of a cricket ball. Of course, my cricket-speak/knowledge
and status as an international civil servant cemented this standing.</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRnCpI1KgFy1K0sL7klTgcHX0Ofxkec9rz-UchRYeM3IB8Nhap1Hk88iGpWHYNZMHPXEVn0Xv-JGDuzoR53-TrC6KZP9TaaY5R1ppiKcFR7JMxFv8JuEQk_pUUG-KMV15YQ51CLXZbYefq/s1600/monsooncaptain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRnCpI1KgFy1K0sL7klTgcHX0Ofxkec9rz-UchRYeM3IB8Nhap1Hk88iGpWHYNZMHPXEVn0Xv-JGDuzoR53-TrC6KZP9TaaY5R1ppiKcFR7JMxFv8JuEQk_pUUG-KMV15YQ51CLXZbYefq/s1600/monsooncaptain.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Lonely planet - India in the midst of a monsoon deluge on the backwaters of Alleppey</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="color: #555555; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: white;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">Although exposed to a relatively
narrow, socio-economic segment of the domestic tourism market, I was
nevertheless impressed with their obvious pride and pleasure in all things
Indian; their overwhelming wanderlust and environmental awareness/appreciation;
and general friendliness and hospitality. All credit to the Cochin-based tourism
company Lotus Destinations Pvt Ltd (</span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><a href="http://www.lotusdmc.com/"><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">www.lotusdmc.com</span></span></a><span style="color: #555555; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">) and Philip Mathew
specifically for putting together a great packaged tour and itinerary that
provided diverse yet intimate insights into people and places within Kerala
State.</span> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKV9mX_oPM-M1UW9rNYSwO9bYhlbyt-SCvOMIUFdjd0x90po9wqc_ynDyvgC4cwiykRMMmlCZwh4ay7V9Mg08ZM6DksgfG4vcjR05mWluWbLMP6P_o9QjpeihkeQ1kX03_fkaGShs-lDcr/s1600/ceremonial+garland2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKV9mX_oPM-M1UW9rNYSwO9bYhlbyt-SCvOMIUFdjd0x90po9wqc_ynDyvgC4cwiykRMMmlCZwh4ay7V9Mg08ZM6DksgfG4vcjR05mWluWbLMP6P_o9QjpeihkeQ1kX03_fkaGShs-lDcr/s1600/ceremonial+garland2.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Riotous profusion - freshly prepared ceremonial garlands </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="color: #555555; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></span></span></span></span> </div>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">Southern India’s jewel state, globally
branded and affectionately known by domestic tourists as God's Own Country,
deserves a resounding endorsement and did not disappoint. Whereas I prefer to
let my ‘amateurish’ pictures do the talking, I’ve embellished the posting
somewhat with some personal thoughts,WOW insights and experiences. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSBEgIHWAxCDfEk7llJDIoyF3BWXtN-Ov7Rha18lKuOWjES24-N1nGXUVB32o8KRwLNQLyuNoKifIOyS8_g4sPZzbhonwSZ6LyA7QLKuwECVlv-fg7dKHPLMgtW6qIAWzof22ew81Jqrue/s1600/Nilgiri+thar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSBEgIHWAxCDfEk7llJDIoyF3BWXtN-Ov7Rha18lKuOWjES24-N1nGXUVB32o8KRwLNQLyuNoKifIOyS8_g4sPZzbhonwSZ6LyA7QLKuwECVlv-fg7dKHPLMgtW6qIAWzof22ew81Jqrue/s1600/Nilgiri+thar.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Nilgiri Tahr browsing and minding his own business - Eravikulam National Park</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglEwcH3bls7d8rVdzKTeWCxKEMNUyWzVvM_dMX1EPUx5g404do74xpRx3x6AzSE-nmLzn96BGuhIkSKeAR_NGOiCR_RcsunPOvEOxHl0aWDkhSPmEs9Z12xBA5DSA6Yec9toF7v95l2I_b/s1600/mosaic+puzzle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglEwcH3bls7d8rVdzKTeWCxKEMNUyWzVvM_dMX1EPUx5g404do74xpRx3x6AzSE-nmLzn96BGuhIkSKeAR_NGOiCR_RcsunPOvEOxHl0aWDkhSPmEs9Z12xBA5DSA6Yec9toF7v95l2I_b/s1600/mosaic+puzzle.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Puzzle through this - maze or mosaic of manicured tea - Munnar estates</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"></span></span></span></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">Variety is Kerala’s spice for life – </span></span></i><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">from a myriad of
monsoon-watered falls to misty, montane hill station tea plantations to the beckoning
and breathtakingly beautiful backwaters to the surfeit shades of verdant green
to the wild and alluring ranges of the Western Ghats to handy hands teasing away
gnarly knots to gateways for gastronomic discovery to incessantly sounding
horns to the disarming, warming and genuine home hospitality – this is Kerala!</span> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">All creatures small........</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHvUsEGKri5yKjO2fbE-jsF5JjzrGwylQkvp0zUbRiCzRS8ySBQF9_6MDEdCJLybVOamDJK2WbkT9XKczEcDNeO8IMQ2e1NS_H6297nsCZcrGBoIzGmlc3KUyTzIRHMgB-4FYXcxaWaxQx/s1600/local+wildlife5.jpg" height="240" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">and large .... a Spotted deer</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Backwater time - Alleppey - a relaxing early morning commute for most!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHvUsEGKri5yKjO2fbE-jsF5JjzrGwylQkvp0zUbRiCzRS8ySBQF9_6MDEdCJLybVOamDJK2WbkT9XKczEcDNeO8IMQ2e1NS_H6297nsCZcrGBoIzGmlc3KUyTzIRHMgB-4FYXcxaWaxQx/s1600/local+wildlife5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHvUsEGKri5yKjO2fbE-jsF5JjzrGwylQkvp0zUbRiCzRS8ySBQF9_6MDEdCJLybVOamDJK2WbkT9XKczEcDNeO8IMQ2e1NS_H6297nsCZcrGBoIzGmlc3KUyTzIRHMgB-4FYXcxaWaxQx/s1600/local+wildlife5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">Going native and off the beaten track</span></span></i><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;"> – most certainly
requires mental and psychological re-calibration particularly with regards to
road travel and manageable distances between destinations. There is no such
thing as a quick breeze along the autobahn or freeway – bargain on top speeds
between 30-40km p/h on average to poor road conditions; take time to smell the
curries and drink delicious roadside chai and Kerala’s famed coconut water; crank
DOWN the volume on your hearing aid and let Kerala countryside and scenery seduce
you.</span> </span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3kSNLMDtV5DnhGilLSX-QwtDKGImXmE1gzuX1S9guEOZ98xuAllJl8sKW66VZaP8PCfCh4GUdJzxoWTnAGoo_qiLBJlzBQa-hZ3LJ9M6GewUnS4XoIhl9dYz7QM1cEvVt5EeD-8X6B_i/s1600/access+SVNP2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3kSNLMDtV5DnhGilLSX-QwtDKGImXmE1gzuX1S9guEOZ98xuAllJl8sKW66VZaP8PCfCh4GUdJzxoWTnAGoo_qiLBJlzBQa-hZ3LJ9M6GewUnS4XoIhl9dYz7QM1cEvVt5EeD-8X6B_i/s1600/access+SVNP2.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A pristine river system in the heart of the Silent Valley National Park</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCPW3_ZXb-YDQCupY4vLRMSDKQUt4NAK2lTG3MDiblof1oClPlffTIqwwxTynmHEnvOFy6ZOiTl646Ub1ntM0KmngQL38CgCXR0oow0T0vi2_vzRhgAvrIYCgl222RGZdf-8WDa8RMIAF/s1600/Bird+enlarged+final+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCPW3_ZXb-YDQCupY4vLRMSDKQUt4NAK2lTG3MDiblof1oClPlffTIqwwxTynmHEnvOFy6ZOiTl646Ub1ntM0KmngQL38CgCXR0oow0T0vi2_vzRhgAvrIYCgl222RGZdf-8WDa8RMIAF/s1600/Bird+enlarged+final+.jpg" height="472" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Master of disguise! Pompadour Green Pigeon spotted in the Silent Valley National Park</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8HL3LuUu6Y59TYPv5TNkq2wm5jsPpCp4GC_82EMF-Kybx9ZLJbUU-ZCY3LpoPUVbP1HR_klHAbOQ42NkH4KgLXN8OduGTe21_vRS3yOgHYl0CEg-aRCuZT8ZuKx23oXML5yAtAPiYjvIn/s1600/forest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8HL3LuUu6Y59TYPv5TNkq2wm5jsPpCp4GC_82EMF-Kybx9ZLJbUU-ZCY3LpoPUVbP1HR_klHAbOQ42NkH4KgLXN8OduGTe21_vRS3yOgHYl0CEg-aRCuZT8ZuKx23oXML5yAtAPiYjvIn/s1600/forest.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Another favorite icon that resonates many years later</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">Going WILD! The tip of the adventure tourism iceberg</span></span></i><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;"> – whereas the state has an abundance of protected areas (IUCN/UNESCO
declared) and although generally accessible to the public they remain, seemingly
and largely, a hidden treasure trove to hardcore adventure-based tourists –
hikers, naturalists or others seeking to ‘lose’ themselves in a totally wild
experience and geographical area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Land-use
planning and zoning, in these areas, should seek to open multiple recreational
opportunities including overnight hikes (guided or unguided) which should be
the bare minimum. A hiking way network also facilitates primary, area access
for other recreational options. Guided and popularized hiking in Silent Valley
National Park or kayaking on the backwaters at Alleppey would be </span><span style="color: white;">particularly
appealing.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkcpqr6imu8hXZubXXToBbEKpC4yzNA85tRU36LvFoho9kk3qLeClnWmLjcO2Jju-Xgm1ptVMnONzfc9taQrB-X_XLb9KXN2uktPH926SLYR9J5P9fT33jW2av1PCsxeF5pJuuugHvAo1/s1600/watered+falls+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkcpqr6imu8hXZubXXToBbEKpC4yzNA85tRU36LvFoho9kk3qLeClnWmLjcO2Jju-Xgm1ptVMnONzfc9taQrB-X_XLb9KXN2uktPH926SLYR9J5P9fT33jW2av1PCsxeF5pJuuugHvAo1/s1600/watered+falls+(2).jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Myriad of monsoon-watered falls</span></strong></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJQK3saIQD6owQ3GWjn1GmWry35upNok0LzRlsG6oEZmkWztN0fSR0kfIG12-Wm5FG3gDAzaTYpQuE28E8D0MQ0FH-OovTnV48CO0VIgucw1jpQ2OoIrundM6jV1KY23Y2PdkJXlVwdUD/s1600/watered+falls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJQK3saIQD6owQ3GWjn1GmWry35upNok0LzRlsG6oEZmkWztN0fSR0kfIG12-Wm5FG3gDAzaTYpQuE28E8D0MQ0FH-OovTnV48CO0VIgucw1jpQ2OoIrundM6jV1KY23Y2PdkJXlVwdUD/s1600/watered+falls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJQK3saIQD6owQ3GWjn1GmWry35upNok0LzRlsG6oEZmkWztN0fSR0kfIG12-Wm5FG3gDAzaTYpQuE28E8D0MQ0FH-OovTnV48CO0VIgucw1jpQ2OoIrundM6jV1KY23Y2PdkJXlVwdUD/s1600/watered+falls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJQK3saIQD6owQ3GWjn1GmWry35upNok0LzRlsG6oEZmkWztN0fSR0kfIG12-Wm5FG3gDAzaTYpQuE28E8D0MQ0FH-OovTnV48CO0VIgucw1jpQ2OoIrundM6jV1KY23Y2PdkJXlVwdUD/s1600/watered+falls.jpg" height="240" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Fractured granite dome on the Kumaragiri Estate</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"></span></span></span></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"></span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><em>Kerala state bucks the system</em> and is very far from the stereotypical
India you commonly hear or read about. Banish previously held perceptions and
open yourself to delightful discovery and a decidedly different experience. The
state is progressive, prosperous and well administered. Open spaces abound;
rural people are resilient and resourceful, healthy, productive and have struck
a customary balance (premised on sustainable development) and appreciation for
the bio-physical environment. The dominant demographic segment by age, the
youth, is vibrant, colorful, hardworking, engaging and eager to learn –
providing great hope for the future of India!</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTDzaFybKAmQQRp09V1cnq0wBOiyMKWC8LC2Mc08AD_kmfAlee5hBuZaa0s6cHWY3fUIlal_GW3mgv7FT1cY_kQSuyOx64kkUi3g54L9ooOo5kuSo0G_bGT4VPiwaOkF328NpaNfHUFiv/s1600/tea+picker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTDzaFybKAmQQRp09V1cnq0wBOiyMKWC8LC2Mc08AD_kmfAlee5hBuZaa0s6cHWY3fUIlal_GW3mgv7FT1cY_kQSuyOx64kkUi3g54L9ooOo5kuSo0G_bGT4VPiwaOkF328NpaNfHUFiv/s1600/tea+picker.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Hard at work! A tea-picker trying to meet her daily target at the tea plantations near Munnar</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE7c7nrUTvdh4htC80baQPkD7yunIGD2DpzlVrXO2CFeU8FSTOIShjLdZl07CWOShWFLNMADLh4a5ZOatlJWdoF3dcm29V6fTksyxryM5uTTNbvc67SJhDXRF7kfT3voP-O2XTZGzVzAu8/s1600/chinese+nets2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE7c7nrUTvdh4htC80baQPkD7yunIGD2DpzlVrXO2CFeU8FSTOIShjLdZl07CWOShWFLNMADLh4a5ZOatlJWdoF3dcm29V6fTksyxryM5uTTNbvc67SJhDXRF7kfT3voP-O2XTZGzVzAu8/s1600/chinese+nets2.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Iconic Chinese fishing net off Fort Kochi </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">Cuisine from Kerala is distinctive and exquisite</span></span></i><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;"> – nuanced, scented, eye-catching, seasoned with such finesse and
subtlety according to produce, condiments, culture and tradition and regional variations.
In my experience - wholesome and healthy; fresh, safe and clean; never boring
and always delicious. On our travels Ossey guided me to mostly ‘local’,
family-oriented eateries where we shared many, memorable vegetarian dishes.
Ossey also contributed significantly to my education, culinary or otherwise, whilst
on our sojourn throughout the state and I have to extend thanks and
appreciation to him in this regard. Similarly, I am now a lungi/dhuti convert
(and will leave this up to the self-discovery, research or imagination of readers)
and have, once again, Ossey to thank for educating me and refining my taste in</span>
<span style="color: white;">this important area. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5Duu39vV1VoVN1LKFPtfZA46SSr_9t1U2n8AItKY9_ZwVaqNuqLFgdTinLrEzfVHtFaAknJSeBSsOGIOdOko5wqX8HMjiY77AFDpFaz3XinDRJZAy9IVJa1JFnAXSifuEo3z_47hxPHo/s1600/undeniably+India.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5Duu39vV1VoVN1LKFPtfZA46SSr_9t1U2n8AItKY9_ZwVaqNuqLFgdTinLrEzfVHtFaAknJSeBSsOGIOdOko5wqX8HMjiY77AFDpFaz3XinDRJZAy9IVJa1JFnAXSifuEo3z_47hxPHo/s1600/undeniably+India.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Enjoyed - happily! Standard fare cruising Alleppey's backwaters</span></strong></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ2NgjzQkeX8yt4emlAnm3ePkdZrF7cDrPPAcLRQqjW9ByA6nu6sEsjiQ7rkUHyR51rhM6jG0mtFRebkQrR03NMdp_oWfvmj1qnh7Nqaav2mHvQ3dgoYauemJS3DY3Ruvl-6Q5fBoRCBua/s1600/roadside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqlaeDHGpLgujT6UzAMJDilXicVSKe-kGH4gAPHgqYx8fZfD9KZh0RAp5yW1oDWPqnfYfuQGxn9O01kBxnjzBI_IrXAFKgn4ixjtt1YyACHZ_T6iF_GNfMtjG-hmH_Cp96bb77h2a3Wq4x/s1600/munnar+market.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqlaeDHGpLgujT6UzAMJDilXicVSKe-kGH4gAPHgqYx8fZfD9KZh0RAp5yW1oDWPqnfYfuQGxn9O01kBxnjzBI_IrXAFKgn4ixjtt1YyACHZ_T6iF_GNfMtjG-hmH_Cp96bb77h2a3Wq4x/s1600/munnar+market.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Fresh produce market - Munnar</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSsThqKAEU8aP-kFRFHb4Xn6IseIlxne5lIz14Maw6XhguAzwiFAcbGMHye4wzu0KskER_gVqoKjj1o3qO0cXeeg2a6apimTA5_qwD8sYdAKteBi-xuXOwnOMeSj6fVAP0Nfkks5KJqfWG/s1600/honey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSsThqKAEU8aP-kFRFHb4Xn6IseIlxne5lIz14Maw6XhguAzwiFAcbGMHye4wzu0KskER_gVqoKjj1o3qO0cXeeg2a6apimTA5_qwD8sYdAKteBi-xuXOwnOMeSj6fVAP0Nfkks5KJqfWG/s1600/honey.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Out of sweetness comes forth strength..... bush tucker</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"></span></span></span></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"></span></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: white;">Ayurveda
and its associated treatments</span></span></i></span></span><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> –
with a legacy of 5,000 years of healing and rejuvenation through natural herbs,
oils, massages and traditional treatment practices is almost guaranteed to
provide one with ‘another or out of body experience.’ It’s also a perfect foil
and counter-balance to arduous road travel, an over-exercised and stressed body
and super-sparking synapses that simply need to be short-circuited or de-powered
altogether.</span> </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrLr1pQhKD59cRdt18RORRU2xelqvRVvQvE0yzOvfLKcpSlM_AwZqy3zIoxFQY4e4AhCUpJdlP3c-BiPmwlbIHz95MLxARnnsxPswONWckNPeTk4Mh7Vpkyo8mngIU-jz7li4aRRtzTbLN/s1600/ayurvedic+treatments.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrLr1pQhKD59cRdt18RORRU2xelqvRVvQvE0yzOvfLKcpSlM_AwZqy3zIoxFQY4e4AhCUpJdlP3c-BiPmwlbIHz95MLxARnnsxPswONWckNPeTk4Mh7Vpkyo8mngIU-jz7li4aRRtzTbLN/s1600/ayurvedic+treatments.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mayura Ayurvedic Centre - Munnar highly, highly recommended!</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-74905242625298280292014-09-27T04:32:00.000-07:002014-09-27T04:32:47.290-07:00Southern Afghanistan - Snapshots & Recollections<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pictures and words by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcahzx6GckPxswJLpUDHaDyW7m8jS5Y-YvZj8HLYTGAD8jpZ7MxqxJXVRLy3soFY7bVuU9UT5yE_h7kPuPifJMob58TgNDY8w5h-FgNFvDzcAIpoHvEn6s_ALFzG2OQIDErMHdmXQ6ME_a/s1600/Bicyle+and+blastwall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcahzx6GckPxswJLpUDHaDyW7m8jS5Y-YvZj8HLYTGAD8jpZ7MxqxJXVRLy3soFY7bVuU9UT5yE_h7kPuPifJMob58TgNDY8w5h-FgNFvDzcAIpoHvEn6s_ALFzG2OQIDErMHdmXQ6ME_a/s1600/Bicyle+and+blastwall.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Saddle-bagged, Afghan styled bicycle against blast wall</span></strong></td></tr>
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</strong></span>
<li><h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="color: #cccccc;">
</span><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="color: white;">Weeks on the hop and fly - half a
dozen or more beds to add to the growing tally. Flips on RAF rotary (Chinook)
and fixed (Hercules C130) wing aircraft - Deep in the bowels of the C130, with
countless British service men and women, incredible sense of purpose and
solidarity - camaraderie despite being complete strangers. Silent conversations
and thoughts passing amongst one another effortlessly with clear intent and
understanding - copy that!<o:p></o:p></span></span>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">
</span><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="color: white;">Old business and fresh money that is war never stops - a
24/7/365 - more than a decade serving and servicing the insatiable,
econo-beast. Landing at Kandahar Air Field in the dead of night - hearing and
then seeing, in an eerie darkness, as two USAF F16 jet fighters blast
themselves from a standstill into the slumbering night sky - full throttle with
after burners blazing away, ghostlike bluey-orange - GONE - a tell-tale
signature for those watching and waiting;</span></span></span></span></span></h3>
</li>
<li><h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="color: white;">Deadly drones and Marabou storks - hungry and hateful harbingers - up to mischief and probably not too much good!<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">
</span><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: white;">Receiving VIP US/UK mil treatment -
accepted and respected as a peer and professional - having passed the scrutiny
test - personality and credibility. Holding one's own in meetings and briefings
- dancing with the civ-mil connect .... requiring a fleet footed
yet bizarre repertoire of 'moves', growing confidence and pragmatism. </span></span></span></span></span></span></h3>
</li>
<li><h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: white;">Suddenly that's that - moving onto a new 'theatre of war' increasingly real and drama-filled probably nearer than further - when will it ever end? Framed backs moving forward without hesitation or directional glances - certainly not backward! Gone and forgotten by most</span> <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>
</strong></span></li>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>
</strong></span>
<li><h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">
</span><span style="color: white;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="color: white;">Something’s that are said to be true
are the case especially when experienced first-hand over a life time -
even the modern military - massive, mighty and sophisticated has
hardly changed when it comes of the age-old adage of 'hurry up and
wait;'</span> <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>
</strong></span></li>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>
</strong></span>
<li><h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">
</span><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555;"><span style="color: white;">Social media - sensation and attention seekers -
sheer volume of posts responsibility of individuals to be street-wise, sensitive
and discerning with what they post. In relation to FB many tend to get emotional and lose sense of perspective and good
common sense - water of duck's back. Ultimately, individuals represent or are associated with
an organization - unless individuals go as far as distancing or 'disclaiming'
themselves from this connection or association they are part and parcel of the
organization. Including insensitive and thoughtless photos and comments. Rule
of thumb - think before you post! Think context - think about messages you are
sending out - especially to local / national staff and a, potential, wider
global audience. Especially if linked to a global brand or organization. </span></span></span></span></span></h3>
</li>
</span></ul>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAC5SlPRQIp2xJ8LvSK2DF-CftbZO3lNpLC1IhPi21DCIPLhnBVzZBY1ZrDtfFcitHHCXeJcJHECLWqdCM1kRrdOc19TYnysj0lv5Wumu86Wtyph6SsV5K8ceSFYHze_cmPN7mMZSU4DPL/s1600/Containerized+accom+for+Gurkhas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAC5SlPRQIp2xJ8LvSK2DF-CftbZO3lNpLC1IhPi21DCIPLhnBVzZBY1ZrDtfFcitHHCXeJcJHECLWqdCM1kRrdOc19TYnysj0lv5Wumu86Wtyph6SsV5K8ceSFYHze_cmPN7mMZSU4DPL/s1600/Containerized+accom+for+Gurkhas.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Containerized accommodation for the Gurkha close/base protection force in Kandahar with their 'green fingers' handy work of sunflowers in the foreground</span></strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><h3>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NaLVXVDHg8Ar24AtQ6-8rnJwAqI8Cc1PLDAX06jZv6n2j8ynoj9JHGMhZ4tfTRrlAbDPpEfvcnSGmCVbX4_lEjGKRzbr0w3HBFQtNT6fvlnVK7-93OBL7IqJfaMT0RYLH_oJaHSIi18y/s1600/flowering+mint+baby+marrow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NaLVXVDHg8Ar24AtQ6-8rnJwAqI8Cc1PLDAX06jZv6n2j8ynoj9JHGMhZ4tfTRrlAbDPpEfvcnSGmCVbX4_lEjGKRzbr0w3HBFQtNT6fvlnVK7-93OBL7IqJfaMT0RYLH_oJaHSIi18y/s1600/flowering+mint+baby+marrow.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Flowering mint and marrows</strong></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLj_KIeGiwanf2QYBv4oJP5xtcowz6ITHpTPm2otKW3bGU57J6zfJbklFVJM_Nzp8FsZ6LBti2rYxQXQqEcPksIUx6IAf9E3clNYaIRYdgau8WDYntH_qQYttK-ucLCHL5LR0e6xgFToG/s1600/grapes+on+the+hescos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLj_KIeGiwanf2QYBv4oJP5xtcowz6ITHpTPm2otKW3bGU57J6zfJbklFVJM_Nzp8FsZ6LBti2rYxQXQqEcPksIUx6IAf9E3clNYaIRYdgau8WDYntH_qQYttK-ucLCHL5LR0e6xgFToG/s1600/grapes+on+the+hescos.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Grapes and vines on Hescos - blast protection structures</span></strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
</h3>
<strong>
</strong><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN-1nKtHHJP4Lmly90qbb-OuDpf1p2WSNav2uH_FFVkETITUctT2jDJgJn286fnpsPot4gJOyFTHSvtC3uObUvxuEu7QT7Wxk1Tr7xq_VkDclPxeqCUrk1FQV7eAnyTPqVY378aGPx13lp/s1600/Gurkha+guardians+Nepalese+Spiritual+bros.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN-1nKtHHJP4Lmly90qbb-OuDpf1p2WSNav2uH_FFVkETITUctT2jDJgJn286fnpsPot4gJOyFTHSvtC3uObUvxuEu7QT7Wxk1Tr7xq_VkDclPxeqCUrk1FQV7eAnyTPqVY378aGPx13lp/s1600/Gurkha+guardians+Nepalese+Spiritual+bros.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Pre-dawn smiles usher in another day in Kandahar ..... IDG's Gurkha close/base protection force gear up for duty</strong></span><br />
<strong><span style="font-size: small;"></span></strong> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<strong>
</strong><ul style="text-align: left;"><strong>
</strong>
<li><div style="text-align: justify;">
<!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><strong>Connecting with my spiritual, Gurkha brothers - feeling, seeing and sensing their alienation - sharing time, space, stories and good humour with all - acknowledging and appreciating their immense sacrifice;<o:p></o:p></strong></span></span></span> </div>
</li>
</ul>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyfrspMNNEqBbrxD41W6-_YZ-2RSLahrHv_56saWMonVlS5JtwSdJRcrBfeeMn0ODlB6i0vLVljYKio3NQTkU9y_HNepAcP7dW-6FZ_Tbrxw6wpkiYei6iBvFhJwFzpYS-Jqm7U7_6lVov/s1600/Helmand1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyfrspMNNEqBbrxD41W6-_YZ-2RSLahrHv_56saWMonVlS5JtwSdJRcrBfeeMn0ODlB6i0vLVljYKio3NQTkU9y_HNepAcP7dW-6FZ_Tbrxw6wpkiYei6iBvFhJwFzpYS-Jqm7U7_6lVov/s1600/Helmand1.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>An Afghan National Army defensive position overlooking the Helmand River - vestiges of another super-heated summer day</strong></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSihyphenhyphenRwuOhqvhlStjU4PZ8RzIxv8q24MjiFHNPA-6z8iBoB4v0evARlU6cWXvbpiQveQDCQOefmSBR_c6-Gwsj3UcpCo4gN7VcZLNMec9tQetFwAF81p6w9GapGxt_OxiORMe8CTB5VH8m/s1600/Helmand2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSihyphenhyphenRwuOhqvhlStjU4PZ8RzIxv8q24MjiFHNPA-6z8iBoB4v0evARlU6cWXvbpiQveQDCQOefmSBR_c6-Gwsj3UcpCo4gN7VcZLNMec9tQetFwAF81p6w9GapGxt_OxiORMe8CTB5VH8m/s1600/Helmand2.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Golden silence with the Helmand River floodplain in the mid-ground</span></strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"> <!--[endif]--></span><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><strong>Witnessing, daily, the heat build over southern Afghanistan.... blinding, searing, sapping and white hot - finally dissipating at the day end like a long held sigh;</strong></span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><strong>September and the slow, steady slide towards winter - the promise of respite.... taking the sting and fight out of warmongers - slipping back into nature's trusty rhythms </strong></span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"></span></span></span></b> </h3>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"></span></span></span></b> </h3>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"></span></span></span></b> </h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuKfO1O2xR4ravUGZixNnU86f7z0Uk_0ncmxGTNySE10vQyjQfrV2_ccg0mijIsIy4XlTe9QEdAZsZuDhVbnLQEysxFzxR-BQdR-UhvY5iq8a_4IdW-eZMlbo_j-oW-aCEmLB3P4Smkf-/s1600/Helmand3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuKfO1O2xR4ravUGZixNnU86f7z0Uk_0ncmxGTNySE10vQyjQfrV2_ccg0mijIsIy4XlTe9QEdAZsZuDhVbnLQEysxFzxR-BQdR-UhvY5iq8a_4IdW-eZMlbo_j-oW-aCEmLB3P4Smkf-/s1600/Helmand3.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Persian garden on the bank of the Helmand River - legacy of Helmand Valley Development Authority or 'Little America' dating back to the 1950s</span></strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvDVUu4J4IMGOWy4yiSCWAu3pME7LZFhms_mLVi6h2nVdlL1NnyktAq5qXzUmCBSou__XUR1c87szMMbGH1YjJDM802nR015M9RB0cFTTeLrZvWL8eC8xSiyfEON9wNLSHowsXvSRRPPLJ/s1600/Helmand4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvDVUu4J4IMGOWy4yiSCWAu3pME7LZFhms_mLVi6h2nVdlL1NnyktAq5qXzUmCBSou__XUR1c87szMMbGH1YjJDM802nR015M9RB0cFTTeLrZvWL8eC8xSiyfEON9wNLSHowsXvSRRPPLJ/s1600/Helmand4.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>A day well done - upper reaches of Helmand River from Lashkar Gah</strong></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis02_Yp4PCVwnBR7CVp_CqFG2-uC4JANrTtWEZbE4b05oM4NJl5YnPuo4wUBTwECjshi-6w_rxu6mxKBTKqAIIlf_jVyLo4EiOhjgPOOLJ6XXvG2xq5tQj4NBeG4RFT3floLECGurMW5HY/s1600/Helmand+Health+R.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis02_Yp4PCVwnBR7CVp_CqFG2-uC4JANrTtWEZbE4b05oM4NJl5YnPuo4wUBTwECjshi-6w_rxu6mxKBTKqAIIlf_jVyLo4EiOhjgPOOLJ6XXvG2xq5tQj4NBeG4RFT3floLECGurMW5HY/s1600/Helmand+Health+R.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Riverside Helmand - Lashkar Gah Health and Racquet Club - a work in progress! </span></strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKKUPGV_5NOEa3ApDLUhXp3srqLHJker6M3cX1vJoh9KqwV10n_AS_6tnOJO9-mhsrwsy0uVzeDZOf33vdMzCGNGyuMA_WPXCNHLMTerM7OckZLFeeVbTfgMIyxZJFiyp2UtoHEg33BFtf/s1600/Kandahar+desert+garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKKUPGV_5NOEa3ApDLUhXp3srqLHJker6M3cX1vJoh9KqwV10n_AS_6tnOJO9-mhsrwsy0uVzeDZOf33vdMzCGNGyuMA_WPXCNHLMTerM7OckZLFeeVbTfgMIyxZJFiyp2UtoHEg33BFtf/s1600/Kandahar+desert+garden.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Kandahar desert garden </span></strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ljsCWcER9xVXjfcc04xcxlScrwM27H71oMecqV90zo8CEKyCbOlw4AHVERB8Q7cWX4SaoaMNxUCvEs569-HTkCOdRk7Qkgm3PIodsL6y-_D4-4cn3_s-qeaY4bbzvKIFD7sY3UUIfqjd/s1600/Point+Lady.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ljsCWcER9xVXjfcc04xcxlScrwM27H71oMecqV90zo8CEKyCbOlw4AHVERB8Q7cWX4SaoaMNxUCvEs569-HTkCOdRk7Qkgm3PIodsL6y-_D4-4cn3_s-qeaY4bbzvKIFD7sY3UUIfqjd/s1600/Point+Lady.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A rather pointed, ladies' </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">finger - the commonly used okra vegetable valued for its edible green seed pods</span></strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mlwpU_18hPGKSi6CzRhJ2m-gJ2OaG9SFYJky0N7BkQngxYtCN7t34mU0VfyQFtinywSxw1giC_N729_dUSv3_pmushBodCUA49Jtvh_dAECGpG0e8n9na_j8IwpdAFxtI3uSAV9Cf1XM/s1600/Soft+summer+light.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mlwpU_18hPGKSi6CzRhJ2m-gJ2OaG9SFYJky0N7BkQngxYtCN7t34mU0VfyQFtinywSxw1giC_N729_dUSv3_pmushBodCUA49Jtvh_dAECGpG0e8n9na_j8IwpdAFxtI3uSAV9Cf1XM/s1600/Soft+summer+light.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">UNDP compound - Lashkar Gah - Helmand Province pioneering regionalization and deconcentration in southern Afghanistan</span></strong></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><div style="text-align: justify;">
<!--[endif]--><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="color: white;"><strong>The sum of some very good men is infinite. Met and work with some exceptional US/UK military men - many will be leaving the Afghan theatre within the next month or so as the ISAF/NATO drawdown is completed. The same can be said about the new generation of young Afghan men and women, particularly our colleagues in the Lashkar Gah office, that are enthusiastic, energetic, highly committed and are desperate to see Afghanistan succeed and prosper post-2014.</strong></span> </span> </span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: #7f6000;"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikS00TfYvOGmcd1TNXeLj-CQp_U46Xfq9uP6YQ7uhHRkBsZQCLD14XS-AbeYEzXjkjO1jZN7HGUPigP0LoLGUHsPRhBmRvme-gAEwfeKNipeF-M4x4bXseF6ar4sDxHlhSKOX3UF9Bvp8b/s1600/Spice+of+Life.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikS00TfYvOGmcd1TNXeLj-CQp_U46Xfq9uP6YQ7uhHRkBsZQCLD14XS-AbeYEzXjkjO1jZN7HGUPigP0LoLGUHsPRhBmRvme-gAEwfeKNipeF-M4x4bXseF6ar4sDxHlhSKOX3UF9Bvp8b/s1600/Spice+of+Life.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Added spice to our lives</span></strong></td></tr>
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</div>
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</h3>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfz7TQJnxSOZ4jo42TWOxLjWl_nPZLa9Q8U9pNMb0e4WIDHgzGJSkHimAiVvshAKXSW_TRAeAY_doe523bOc4nXAJIGpQ88L-j8vPdG6UH1ytvDKZpMvoaxPeAUanU5x6_CGkBVMRiVFmJ/s1600/with+Helmand+Governor+Naeem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfz7TQJnxSOZ4jo42TWOxLjWl_nPZLa9Q8U9pNMb0e4WIDHgzGJSkHimAiVvshAKXSW_TRAeAY_doe523bOc4nXAJIGpQ88L-j8vPdG6UH1ytvDKZpMvoaxPeAUanU5x6_CGkBVMRiVFmJ/s1600/with+Helmand+Governor+Naeem.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Meeting with Governor Naeem - Lashkar Gah - Helmand Province</span></strong></td></tr>
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</h3>
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</strong></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdDO9HbGoExzgQD9OAEIa3mk9deToyukywEdrm_kfe7ZMaWxBqJTydrjFk2-mmx6huI2fNp6VB52PQ1Y4m9P5BSDpFuYthQlj9YtT_f3qsU78FKIbCwKYq627r8reuVH5NTsqA2xGXQI5H/s1600/Flowered+Sun1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdDO9HbGoExzgQD9OAEIa3mk9deToyukywEdrm_kfe7ZMaWxBqJTydrjFk2-mmx6huI2fNp6VB52PQ1Y4m9P5BSDpFuYthQlj9YtT_f3qsU78FKIbCwKYq627r8reuVH5NTsqA2xGXQI5H/s1600/Flowered+Sun1.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Flowered sun!</span> </strong></td></tr>
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</strong></span>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">
<span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">Flowered and nurtured by Nepalese tender loving care under a relentless summer sun…..</span></span></span></span></span></h3>
</li>
</ul>
<h3>
<span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span> </h3>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-69084381300062633302014-09-12T04:02:00.001-07:002014-09-14T16:56:39.287-07:00Up Close and Personal with Kumaragiri Estate<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Words and <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pics by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></span></h3>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">After a long trip on Kerala State
roads (en route from Wayanad to Perinthalmanna) characterized by trying monsoon
induced conditions; suppressed road rage and frustration; harangued by incessantly
sounding horns the beckoning estate gates were an absolute heaven-sent. The ascent
to the hilltop homestead, through skirted rubber trees pirouetting in the
swirling mists, was therapeutic in itself as Kumaragiri began working its magic
on senses awry and knotted tension. Swimming in a soundless sea of solitude,
the estate’s island nature has the ability to ‘transport’ one, for the briefest
time, to another ethereal place and time.</span> </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhWEa8bL-kZjnHtq4XONjqUcyJXpjAnM4ceMxGgkoNeXiq5XM7wT6fTUfGkWQ7C7pv8tN64qUvcJrOLwJZ4nldQL0LIFiQG2D4FQfD9vQmA8RnUZ88pNP5lyVpJqRn2vygz2kgdf2G01Cc/s1600/skirted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhWEa8bL-kZjnHtq4XONjqUcyJXpjAnM4ceMxGgkoNeXiq5XM7wT6fTUfGkWQ7C7pv8tN64qUvcJrOLwJZ4nldQL0LIFiQG2D4FQfD9vQmA8RnUZ88pNP5lyVpJqRn2vygz2kgdf2G01Cc/s1600/skirted.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Skirted rubber trees pirouetting in the swirling mists of Kumararigi</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"></span><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"></span><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"></span><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"></span> </div>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Enter the larger than life character
and the man at the center of Kumaragiri - Mr CA Kumar. In another lifetime and
career (both highly successful) Ashok Kumar went by the name and professional
designation of CA - Chartered Accountant Kumar (Bangalore). Years later in
semi-retirement and as part of a significant, self-imposed sea change the
designation has taken on new and equally impressive meaning - challenger and
champion in the face of adversity. In short, Ashok together with some
incredibly valuable 'assets' at his disposal including the bejeweled Kumaragiri
Estate and some exceptional staff, has re-invented himself as an eco-tourism
entrepreneur of note</span>.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5pMiifHjdcX6zbFG-pypH9AuLKI7X0avcUFaRmCQmfWg7WVEjBPNOBJr-U6oYXW5PlX59IZWHn4jaqecDd7a_4BS-icwV6oH_AjywXuCCkouqefhDi37IXZB707582ddJKo6ewIbuiz0n/s1600/facilities3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5pMiifHjdcX6zbFG-pypH9AuLKI7X0avcUFaRmCQmfWg7WVEjBPNOBJr-U6oYXW5PlX59IZWHn4jaqecDd7a_4BS-icwV6oH_AjywXuCCkouqefhDi37IXZB707582ddJKo6ewIbuiz0n/s1600/facilities3.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kumaragiri Estate accommodation</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOE0PS6BeCqzD4rgHkTDjWlBoylME13jptbs3sz9kDEPSpM2mVXfFx80yHWwjcINxGLhB2-XyVGaiqrE1sD5btW4BbndQv4ay4hsBMI0jzarYw4XBCJ9QKC-FQKk8b0b9xbiswOZ1BpN6/s1600/staff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOE0PS6BeCqzD4rgHkTDjWlBoylME13jptbs3sz9kDEPSpM2mVXfFx80yHWwjcINxGLhB2-XyVGaiqrE1sD5btW4BbndQv4ay4hsBMI0jzarYw4XBCJ9QKC-FQKk8b0b9xbiswOZ1BpN6/s1600/staff.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The A-team (L-R) CA Ashok Kumar, Kunjapa, John Johnson and Anu Johnson</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3ufN_ReOea4Rg2zb5nvyiVnecBsVWe9V5EeYvm1V8amigch2NIR4uCOWZsxO0VSUw6px9mqsotJvCotGYxY6m_tBHSPN7pBky-z7y816JM0dFxxC1snoiyB8Bf02u8mGGdEOkd-mvosX/s1600/facilities1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3ufN_ReOea4Rg2zb5nvyiVnecBsVWe9V5EeYvm1V8amigch2NIR4uCOWZsxO0VSUw6px9mqsotJvCotGYxY6m_tBHSPN7pBky-z7y816JM0dFxxC1snoiyB8Bf02u8mGGdEOkd-mvosX/s1600/facilities1.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The communal dining and recreation area adjoining the estate accommodation</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohsHU-T8NSbSh28eIF-W1YUFF65LzMU7I8LM-sry3chX25uHdeNmB_yoRt_6hLnJ7ZGoP-tx0yfKGfj0MB3qEzRUVETuoyFc3yyPub04bUgpeG3vIyh8kHZJJQR0O4fgA5k1Ovimxyfmh/s1600/facilities2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohsHU-T8NSbSh28eIF-W1YUFF65LzMU7I8LM-sry3chX25uHdeNmB_yoRt_6hLnJ7ZGoP-tx0yfKGfj0MB3qEzRUVETuoyFc3yyPub04bUgpeG3vIyh8kHZJJQR0O4fgA5k1Ovimxyfmh/s1600/facilities2.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Comfortably appointed accommodation</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">At our first fortuitous meeting (courtesy
of Lotus Destinations Pvt Ltd - a reputable, efficient and highly recommended Cochin-based
tourism enterprise </span><a href="http://www.lotusdmc.com/"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">www.lotusdmc.com</span></a><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">) described
by Ashok as one destined and 'fated' to happen, I was particularly taken by his
vision and determination to not only ‘reinvent’ himself but to also succeed at
it. Tack onto that his passion for the environment and nature, at times, assuming
eco-warrior proportions. His quest for sustainable stewardship for ‘God's given’
Kumaragiri burns brightly as does Ashok's humility, especially to learn more
about this new industry, hospitality and his hands-on approach to most things.
The estate, over 1000 acres in land area and nestling near the hills of the
Western Ghats, has been in the Kumar family for half a century and nostalgia is
rich and heavy in his narrative of those adventure-filled and carefree days
spent with his siblings on the estate.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY1-GmXEzWqx6O5coGEU-Rhgi-v-bMkfkBX4xbLgP2O0pZXm0_eXlBMDGJjlEPI4DLIkH_ZEjHpQ3szCbNjx8hritnQCqnAIoltn7rf4rVcXc8YQHcVzCPspXZLzEU7idchL4HXaq8M7Cj/s1600/agroforestry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY1-GmXEzWqx6O5coGEU-Rhgi-v-bMkfkBX4xbLgP2O0pZXm0_eXlBMDGJjlEPI4DLIkH_ZEjHpQ3szCbNjx8hritnQCqnAIoltn7rf4rVcXc8YQHcVzCPspXZLzEU7idchL4HXaq8M7Cj/s1600/agroforestry.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Peppered profusion - one of the estate's agro-forestry crops</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">It's not all plain sailing though as
Ashok relates the countless challenges associated with running a ‘marginal’
agro-forestry business (rubber and coconut plantations together with pepper
vines) on a parcel of land that is not exactly economically viable in this day
and age. Throw in bureaucratic and contentious land ownership/management issues
imposed by government and siblings alike; contract labor peculiarities; the
constant summertime threat posed by potentially catastrophic wildfires; dangers
of over-capitalization in an emerging enterprise with little or slow return on
investment and its clear that Ashok’s vision and niche tourism product – low key
and low impact eco-tourism for discerning nature lovers, is a diversified lifeline
for Kumaragiri. Guests are accommodated in four comfortably appointed double rooms
with an adjoining dining and recreational area. Surrounding verdant canopy
views, of planted plantations or natural forest, catch the eye especially when
teased by errant tendrils of twirling mist.</span> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwaSkU2jekh8gvHpFvssnRz4UFAl6iDirFRuVOvOsJ4arScGElas8ligK1-5f6X2fz9yhKb06EfePEAVaxOKEOCbouASw1ezvurJazguu4TxLUG1F96GQEtUly-MEjRNm6aeIZWDqcU3y4/s1600/swimming.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwaSkU2jekh8gvHpFvssnRz4UFAl6iDirFRuVOvOsJ4arScGElas8ligK1-5f6X2fz9yhKb06EfePEAVaxOKEOCbouASw1ezvurJazguu4TxLUG1F96GQEtUly-MEjRNm6aeIZWDqcU3y4/s1600/swimming.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kumaragiri Estate - an island swimming in a sea of solitude</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg382iugxl6DE3MeO9-3jQL4GCifwbeG7IjHqiNkJo3j3Qd4f-xFGGkgrLzTn3fxadrJ0DCMvDYypi0UUaDXt3nZd32KBegy1oyVnmSy_ILc3cHpg64FZm0uyRxFkFw-t7jio3AiYA2AR1K/s1600/man+with+mission.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg382iugxl6DE3MeO9-3jQL4GCifwbeG7IjHqiNkJo3j3Qd4f-xFGGkgrLzTn3fxadrJ0DCMvDYypi0UUaDXt3nZd32KBegy1oyVnmSy_ILc3cHpg64FZm0uyRxFkFw-t7jio3AiYA2AR1K/s1600/man+with+mission.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Ashok, a large than life character, together with Kunjapa at the cafeteria preparing pre-dinner snacks</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Whereas Ashok refers to our chance
meeting as ‘predestined’, serendipitous is perhaps a better coined phrase also
encapsulating the romance, beauty and mystique of Kerala state - God's Own
Country - as portrayed in the global branding of this southern Indian state as
a premier tourism destination. Kumaragiri, with its natural beauty, is every
bit of that and boasts some interesting recreational and educational
opportunities including birding, hiking, herping (for budding or seasoned
herpetologists), mountain biking, outdoor camping, working rubber and coconut
plantations, swimming and lazing around at the estate’s centerpiece water
feature. A stroll around the area reveals countless, unexpected monsoon watered
falls and streams – sights to behold and symphonies to the ears.</span> </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfy_Nf8xSuUeIoVy0PZmczvFgsgZNNKGaq67LIxjRWxb8j16Ck7GoztE20h49drs_9LMhHPSXQpaI9puA0s-HjIcxV316SLioPx90ZP3dyXQjBY7i-3WsezFmhxereSnjnwwavHwZvDW0y/s1600/watered+falls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfy_Nf8xSuUeIoVy0PZmczvFgsgZNNKGaq67LIxjRWxb8j16Ck7GoztE20h49drs_9LMhHPSXQpaI9puA0s-HjIcxV316SLioPx90ZP3dyXQjBY7i-3WsezFmhxereSnjnwwavHwZvDW0y/s1600/watered+falls.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Fractured granite domes provide courses for countless monsoon watered falls</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: white;">The </span></span><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">pièce de
résistance</span></i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;"> </span></span></span><span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">is the Malabar cuisine prepared by the
estate cooks, not forgetting some of Ashok’s own inspired signature snacks
including freshly roasted cashew nuts and a spicy cassava-sambal. Guaranteed to
create an olfactory and gastronomic sensation - coconut oil is gently heated on
a hot plate (infusing the evening air with its wonderfully exotic, silky and
fragrant scent) before fresh, local raw cashews seasoned liberally with chili
powder, turmeric and black pepper are slow roasted over an open flame. Grown in
Kerala, cashews are a high value, labor intensive cash crop yet the state is
acclaimed, internationally, for being the leading importer and exporter of the
nut. Cashews are processed and finished before being exported around the world.
This delightfully fresh and sumptuous snack is best enjoyed with black tea,
ever-so slightly sweetened and flavored with a sprig of bruised lemon grass. Another
culinary revelation was simple, boiled cassava served and spiced up with a sambal
consisting of coconut oil, finely chopped Kerala green chili, red onion and seasoned
with salt.</span> </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisk6AltQojnkjAOCEM2GVjFYRarUQAkI3NVRNhuSOuR0WMUqVbfbcYwB3bU0FmqXnguRr8yZ7_4sD0C5KmwJ3tYG1_NEcPiq9MoElk6U8I4gdwRv3LZwS7XkCiL0qC4jc2tmRThI_Ldf9_/s1600/signature+snack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisk6AltQojnkjAOCEM2GVjFYRarUQAkI3NVRNhuSOuR0WMUqVbfbcYwB3bU0FmqXnguRr8yZ7_4sD0C5KmwJ3tYG1_NEcPiq9MoElk6U8I4gdwRv3LZwS7XkCiL0qC4jc2tmRThI_Ldf9_/s1600/signature+snack.jpg" height="400" width="397" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Savory snacks - freshly roasted cashew nuts</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">A must-do, for adventure-junkies and
hard core environmentalists, is a visit to the not so proximate (a full day road
and jeep track excursion) UNESCO listed Western Ghats World Heritage site and IUCN category Silent Valley National
Park (SVNP). With a mosaic of vegetation types and associated habitats for all
manner of life forms; landscapes be it riverine or montane and steeped in
anthropological history a trip to SVNP can prove to be highly rewarding and
educational.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxyXN2JoV0aKi8mNfadCKg5yl9IPFlreF2rJSsG9a-ZA64CnYx-rziSIWUkO0kDWEAngf39JErK_SVZQGavvPROd8YlK6buDw7-Nbdy4BRRSB2ToC4FEf3hwZg5ZTO0XNe48_C0835weQ/s1600/access+SVNP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxyXN2JoV0aKi8mNfadCKg5yl9IPFlreF2rJSsG9a-ZA64CnYx-rziSIWUkO0kDWEAngf39JErK_SVZQGavvPROd8YlK6buDw7-Nbdy4BRRSB2ToC4FEf3hwZg5ZTO0XNe48_C0835weQ/s1600/access+SVNP.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Listed by UNESCO as Western Ghats World Heritage site and IUCN as a protected national park </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6qfeJ436NKZmNJ7l9_Og6BxGHcupLNOx60Apdvbd6u7WDCRJexQEsf9ZjaNxJk7EtQorIT8o4RK18ARljj_MVFTxN2nN6cVfFXA8-z00oD8L0C8ZnV5iNRNl20k7ReaimqWt_P1xQZY0/s1600/access+SVNP2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6qfeJ436NKZmNJ7l9_Og6BxGHcupLNOx60Apdvbd6u7WDCRJexQEsf9ZjaNxJk7EtQorIT8o4RK18ARljj_MVFTxN2nN6cVfFXA8-z00oD8L0C8ZnV5iNRNl20k7ReaimqWt_P1xQZY0/s1600/access+SVNP2.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The pristine Kunthipuhza River, once the center of a fierce controversy to dam the system for hydro-electric power in the 1970s, but saved as a result of intense environmental lobbying via the 'Save Silent Valley' campaign</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZ4fGVsnMOFCAvOhqJOY2KaluxZqla6g9L4MRX2amqVA9fhHyZJBNE4uOIPBErlLaDvk_0An-2fZWQJj2sG-jizkQxQ5IMKETU9JL9OUFJjWQ0IFsxWLdGebAGGBbNiPRVfsa0ziF4eSi/s1600/access+SVNP1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZ4fGVsnMOFCAvOhqJOY2KaluxZqla6g9L4MRX2amqVA9fhHyZJBNE4uOIPBErlLaDvk_0An-2fZWQJj2sG-jizkQxQ5IMKETU9JL9OUFJjWQ0IFsxWLdGebAGGBbNiPRVfsa0ziF4eSi/s1600/access+SVNP1.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Jeep transportation into the hinterland of the SVNP</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbYVoHD9YPl3ElHNzmPUR6ezE2AIV5jQJsmzdvkEdS8t6guwJPmbbQPS7E4HeU2KMBsaoFjn6YixvNcFSqjCsbu_njEFySMhNIZMwlSZcUPMw2p2S8JVLmRQhjYJrXkqobSv8QbGkp3RV/s1600/Bird+enlarged+final+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbYVoHD9YPl3ElHNzmPUR6ezE2AIV5jQJsmzdvkEdS8t6guwJPmbbQPS7E4HeU2KMBsaoFjn6YixvNcFSqjCsbu_njEFySMhNIZMwlSZcUPMw2p2S8JVLmRQhjYJrXkqobSv8QbGkp3RV/s1600/Bird+enlarged+final+.jpg" height="472" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Snapped per chance and unexpectedly - the stunning Pompadour Green Pigeon!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Back at Kumaragiri and at the end of a
long yet satisfying day, one has wonderful option of regrouping and reflecting,
on the entire experience, at Ashok’s amazing water feature – a natural rock
pool with cascading waterfalls designed to soothe, cleanse and rejuvenate. Located
in a natural rock amphitheater, that offers commanding and breathtaking views
of the valley below, the feature provides an ideal setting complete with nature-surround
sounds for any number of trademark Kerala Ayurveda treatments. The highlight,
like no other, to an enchanting visit to the Kumaragiri Estate <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Website: </span><a href="http://www.kumaragiri.co.in/"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">www.kumaragiri.co.in</span></a><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Email: </span><a href="mailto:kumaragiri@gmail.com"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">kumaragiri@gmail.com</span></a> </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7VjT_9-_UHJoqXrgu1CP2StlLy2mrMl7FiqCBnb3vsS-C7a9Nfv2khcr6ZSxlqsycHC9DQPjSrnWBlFzBWd-UdTckq9ZiQYSM6xNscZq-pS0P9V9I9AmmRoXw1Or8lcTLcxs65-_OuhA3/s1600/facilities5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7VjT_9-_UHJoqXrgu1CP2StlLy2mrMl7FiqCBnb3vsS-C7a9Nfv2khcr6ZSxlqsycHC9DQPjSrnWBlFzBWd-UdTckq9ZiQYSM6xNscZq-pS0P9V9I9AmmRoXw1Or8lcTLcxs65-_OuhA3/s1600/facilities5.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Cascading waterfalls that feed into the natural rock pool at Kumaragiri's centerpiece water feature and recreational area</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB2U5wz5TZibEy14ZbNPclChOc8pUCPUT1AfcKlF_kAYDDnVFqcoa_9cDMMrAyhXrQBeovT8TjvrnAlTf7p0G65Lqm7VvJ2isSQIOTPEa89mgqqlZUecN4x9Dgtd7UbNObnoqU0wdFYv1h/s1600/ayurvedic+treatments.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB2U5wz5TZibEy14ZbNPclChOc8pUCPUT1AfcKlF_kAYDDnVFqcoa_9cDMMrAyhXrQBeovT8TjvrnAlTf7p0G65Lqm7VvJ2isSQIOTPEa89mgqqlZUecN4x9Dgtd7UbNObnoqU0wdFYv1h/s1600/ayurvedic+treatments.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Kerala Ayurveda available, upon request, to the sound of water </strong><strong>cascading</strong><strong> into the natural rock pool below</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Located in a natural amphitheater the Kumaragiri water feature and cafeteria area overlook the green valley below providing spectacular surrounding views</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Take the plunge - visit the Kumaragiri Estate for a decidedly different, eco-tourism experience!</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-76689211770805323482014-06-14T12:54:00.001-07:002014-06-14T12:54:10.379-07:00Namaste Kathmandu! Namaste Pokhara! <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Pictures and text by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Flag_of_Nepal.svg" title=""Flag of Nepal" "><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-no-proof: yes; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><v:shapetype coordsize="21600,21600" filled="f" id="_x0000_t75" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" stroked="f">
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Nepal’s national flag is the only one in the world that
is not rectangular in shape and is also considered to be the most mathematical
flag ever hoisted. The red represents victory in war or courage/aggression, and is also
the color of the rhododendron, the country’s national flower. The flag's blue
border signifies peace. The curved moon on the flag is a symbol of the peaceful
and calm nature of Nepalese, while the sun represents the aggressiveness of
Nepalese Gurkha warriors.</span> </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcFWHfJAn6CPBpfkEQnVF_25r1nPaM4mwzH76fSJ7jFs7EjR8yBjHiTTfwI04mTuO7IMS0KU4ArFCVzp6Q_GUjSPmjnHNQIbyV1zri2I06nzKordtEpeKGnNyvpVs4q3MZV1LC8dKU-S8/s1600/saas7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcFWHfJAn6CPBpfkEQnVF_25r1nPaM4mwzH76fSJ7jFs7EjR8yBjHiTTfwI04mTuO7IMS0KU4ArFCVzp6Q_GUjSPmjnHNQIbyV1zri2I06nzKordtEpeKGnNyvpVs4q3MZV1LC8dKU-S8/s1600/saas7.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">The pride and national flower of Nepal - the exquisite rhododendron or tree rose depicted graphically on the flag above</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijs_x-2U9wmvg08la9aybbBk4TGEpSoWQsrt418tJsO6_zaBwr4XEV5yjAIJlbZWG-YUhan_EIJMMp-DfM3Nx-Ed_aTOxxlWS_syGrFLuMObQUCkssu84OwjRpY3HSMQYZonVqnzjI6a7a/s1600/saas6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijs_x-2U9wmvg08la9aybbBk4TGEpSoWQsrt418tJsO6_zaBwr4XEV5yjAIJlbZWG-YUhan_EIJMMp-DfM3Nx-Ed_aTOxxlWS_syGrFLuMObQUCkssu84OwjRpY3HSMQYZonVqnzjI6a7a/s1600/saas6.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">A composite picture of a rhododendron crown with lichen covered branches, old and emerging foliage and late flowering blooms</span></strong></td></tr>
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<strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fast Facts</span></strong> </div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Nepal has a population of approximately 27 million with
nearly 2 million absentee or migrant workers living abroad;<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">In 2013, Nepal ranked the 157<sup>th</sup> place on the
Human Development Index (HDI) and is one of the least developed nations in the
entire world;<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Nepal is located in the heart of the
Himalayas </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">and bordered to the
north by the People’s Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by
the Republic of India; </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">The mountainous north of Nepal has eight of the world's
ten tallest mountains, including the highest point on Earth; Mount Everest
called <i>Sagarmatha</i> (Mountain of Snows) in Nepali. It contains more than
240 peaks over 20,000 ft (6,096 m) above sea level;</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Rooftop views of capital city Kathmandu that is virtually bursting at the seams as a consequence of urbanization, improved safety and security in recent years, a thriving remittance economy and large foreign investment</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kathmandu has grown exponentially in recent years and public utilities including electricity and water provision have lagged behind considerably frustrating native residents and small businesses </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Jvl62AFKeIcEkyQjFvcrWi-2tMwSRfev5_ChB7mKelqlXQH8V892YGhNzu5UXoHRxhSjfDlRF-yRsQXVWHK0kdexSWX4T7R7bBXlt9mhhDn6M0yzo2MZK_0AK58KOxLmDB8dWYhpHlFO/s1600/bl40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Jvl62AFKeIcEkyQjFvcrWi-2tMwSRfev5_ChB7mKelqlXQH8V892YGhNzu5UXoHRxhSjfDlRF-yRsQXVWHK0kdexSWX4T7R7bBXlt9mhhDn6M0yzo2MZK_0AK58KOxLmDB8dWYhpHlFO/s1600/bl40.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Contrary to expectations and public perception, quality water remains a relatively scarce and invaluable resource particularly in a city like Kathmandu</span></strong></td></tr>
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<strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">More Fast Facts</span></strong> </div>
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<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span> </div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">The southern Terai region is fertile and humid. Lumbini,
the birthplace of Lord Gautam Buddha, is located in this region. It is one of
the holiest places of one of the world's great religions, and its remains
contain important evidence about the nature of Buddhist pilgrimage centres from
as early as the 3rd century BC; <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Hinduism </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">is practiced by about 81.3% of Nepalis, making it the
country with the highest percentage of Hindus. Buddhism is linked historically
with Nepal and is practiced by 16%, Kirat 5.1%, Islam by 4.4%, Christianity 1.4%,
and animism 0.4%. A large section of the population, especially in hill region,
even though they follow Hindu customs, may identify themselves as both Hindu as
well as Buddhists which can be attributed to syncretic nature of Hinduism and
Buddhism in Nepal;</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">A monarchy
throughout most of its history, Nepal was ruled by the Shah dynasty of kings
from 1768, when Prithvi Narayan Shah unified its many small kingdoms;</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Nepal's
exports of mainly carpets, clothing, hemp natural fibre, leather goods, jute
goods and grain total $822 million. Import commodities of mainly gold,
machinery and equipment, petroleum products and fertilizer total US$2 bn. EU
(46.1%), the US (17.4%), and Germany (7.1%) are its main export partners.
Recently, the European Union has become the largest buyer of Nepali ready made
garments (RMG). Exports to the EU accounted for 46% of the country’s total
garment exports. Nepal's import partners include India (47.5%), the United Arab
Emirates (11.2%), China (10.7%), Saudi Arabia (4.9%), and Singapore (4%);</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Remittances
are estimated to be equivalent to 25–30 percent of GDP;</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiDfSvsLpt4LhELA7R39Su9jzZeLb91xvFMzA1st2gQclV4pOp8OLRndZoP-5wVh9UpSgACVXHwC769wRVFGRti2jAZnGLCWPRpFdgBKMLNeMyP0zcsMf_uQJjSwGoW2JISH6xChFD5TMC/s1600/bl26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiDfSvsLpt4LhELA7R39Su9jzZeLb91xvFMzA1st2gQclV4pOp8OLRndZoP-5wVh9UpSgACVXHwC769wRVFGRti2jAZnGLCWPRpFdgBKMLNeMyP0zcsMf_uQJjSwGoW2JISH6xChFD5TMC/s1600/bl26.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu steeped in history and a highly significant spiritual site for Hinduism in Nepal. The real time cremations, in full public view, can be very confronting for most.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXYKXghDZJ96CRp1XzY-4k8mQudURisbGUbjtGpc2qFJWXSi4ld75R1w-6tkLjn64qqrw45GEN68cP_5dzw0DgwChAVU4MOJyHcckX8HkiIwLDhoSq_mW9tVHhHT6yc-VflbL5LkztRbY/s1600/Ingrid4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXYKXghDZJ96CRp1XzY-4k8mQudURisbGUbjtGpc2qFJWXSi4ld75R1w-6tkLjn64qqrw45GEN68cP_5dzw0DgwChAVU4MOJyHcckX8HkiIwLDhoSq_mW9tVHhHT6yc-VflbL5LkztRbY/s1600/Ingrid4.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Beauty and the Beast captured at the </strong><strong>Pashupatinath Temple </strong><strong> </strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDCyuLs8fKKBmTbO-P1SCSi5qoDp-MUUsAOry66jYRImrAIe2PIPhfZjcHWiXhqMsXl9p1hsXsZhUkgc8-pcKLFP3oGfAT0v3vdU41q869GlNe517NluBCKBC0N35f1rUuJpRSR0SQCxB/s1600/bl27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDCyuLs8fKKBmTbO-P1SCSi5qoDp-MUUsAOry66jYRImrAIe2PIPhfZjcHWiXhqMsXl9p1hsXsZhUkgc8-pcKLFP3oGfAT0v3vdU41q869GlNe517NluBCKBC0N35f1rUuJpRSR0SQCxB/s1600/bl27.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Smoke from a funeral pyre wafts over the grounds of the </strong><strong>Pashupatinath Temple </strong><strong> as the departed are prepared for their final send off.</strong><strong> </strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZs1FEb1ijWXFcuA2IsN-TGqrYYf3AP7vWgc_8AA9zaEPb-_DLrF2Wtj_AoM7nwN4kJqwLiN_p9kDvYTGQqLa7Eaul5DE92xa6jbQI8bnvjLUuyYBlkrgDW80Wm6ixvCxIy9ZRiXMre2Ts/s1600/bl28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZs1FEb1ijWXFcuA2IsN-TGqrYYf3AP7vWgc_8AA9zaEPb-_DLrF2Wtj_AoM7nwN4kJqwLiN_p9kDvYTGQqLa7Eaul5DE92xa6jbQI8bnvjLUuyYBlkrgDW80Wm6ixvCxIy9ZRiXMre2Ts/s1600/bl28.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The entrance/exit façade to the magnificent Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj2v0zEJexrF2TwrOW93pnFCvzv3pgKHSzR00zvknISSUYaQBrC6JJGMXdFy5KJemOEnHsY3g3Z9JNnD40panTV7HwyQICc84WmoORcWGOm3arRJ-I5sunPn-pCI0m2IUmPvgOVthdDGFd/s1600/bl32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj2v0zEJexrF2TwrOW93pnFCvzv3pgKHSzR00zvknISSUYaQBrC6JJGMXdFy5KJemOEnHsY3g3Z9JNnD40panTV7HwyQICc84WmoORcWGOm3arRJ-I5sunPn-pCI0m2IUmPvgOVthdDGFd/s1600/bl32.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Most certainly my type of guesthouse!</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbsV-R7-s9lUxjcfG1ibF4HKWMsE09KZhXypx3rNud4xkvQQ8ZsRoRapNd5ZiELrXdD-IOg1hYxYKXb0tmOBso_piDeceuzVtEPSBpKqR24LzpLhge_FnnPh91nis_aUpObjI8PC9Wq1rv/s1600/bl34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbsV-R7-s9lUxjcfG1ibF4HKWMsE09KZhXypx3rNud4xkvQQ8ZsRoRapNd5ZiELrXdD-IOg1hYxYKXb0tmOBso_piDeceuzVtEPSBpKqR24LzpLhge_FnnPh91nis_aUpObjI8PC9Wq1rv/s1600/bl34.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>A superb tourist precinct within the grounds of the </strong><strong>Boudhanath Stupa where one can soak up the atmosphere, while away the time by browsing around or enjoy a relaxing and refreshing Tuborg at one of the many strategically placed, rooftop restaurants </strong></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0wAq2REzxBCEtpjrvLKuoSufZShvAywTCwNF1eFuOypM2YuJClwpi1KCkVMDBgG9YRq-b5ypYJdA3bU6CGg-ciuFHg2-TNf0ELL6ZqpQ1PcRbavSsCWxDTtkRU4E-iry8-ggbdCvzhAd1/s1600/bl47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0wAq2REzxBCEtpjrvLKuoSufZShvAywTCwNF1eFuOypM2YuJClwpi1KCkVMDBgG9YRq-b5ypYJdA3bU6CGg-ciuFHg2-TNf0ELL6ZqpQ1PcRbavSsCWxDTtkRU4E-iry8-ggbdCvzhAd1/s1600/bl47.jpg" height="640" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The ancient stupa with its massive mandala makes it one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal and in the world in fact. The Buddhist stupa of Boudhanath dominates the skyline and Tibetan merchants have rested and offered prayers here for many centuries </span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9-WnaERNGFkBf6Ej3x3f_YyCkh_EKj179iO_lYmTkbwIC5NdCgYqjHmWo0Spdw79LHvkBZO7JK8cXY3ryTVXc-6AatLsyk8GlDRWk0Wdg9IO5eYOVrcOUwMEHMoztF6x7w2TkPYqjOvf/s1600/bl29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9-WnaERNGFkBf6Ej3x3f_YyCkh_EKj179iO_lYmTkbwIC5NdCgYqjHmWo0Spdw79LHvkBZO7JK8cXY3ryTVXc-6AatLsyk8GlDRWk0Wdg9IO5eYOVrcOUwMEHMoztF6x7w2TkPYqjOvf/s1600/bl29.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Great Stupa is 36 m in height and is a UNESCO declared World Heritage Site and by far one of the most popular tourist sites in Kathmandu</span></strong><br />
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"></span></strong><br />
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"></span></strong> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVOhXn4y8M-CA6B9ed1-OxTsnOExqXOk70yCFIsfddRrFtcLjFQzlT7u1n-FvU_IjxRayOHjRyNtddBK5luas5UxMIwVQGHz6piQ03uPt1fZtEN0HehpnO1QWYUVQjOH8cvL_vJl3YfbNi/s1600/bl30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVOhXn4y8M-CA6B9ed1-OxTsnOExqXOk70yCFIsfddRrFtcLjFQzlT7u1n-FvU_IjxRayOHjRyNtddBK5luas5UxMIwVQGHz6piQ03uPt1fZtEN0HehpnO1QWYUVQjOH8cvL_vJl3YfbNi/s1600/bl30.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The outer perimeter of the Great Stupa has been painstakingly and loving restored to the delight and pleasure of countless tourists </span></strong></td></tr>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">In 2012
the number of international tourists visiting Nepal was 598,204, a 10% increase
on the previous year. The tourism sector contributed nearly 3% of national GDP
in 2012 and is the second biggest foreign income earner after remittances; <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">The
rate of unemployment and underemployment approaches half of the working-age
population. Thus many Nepali citizens move to other countries in search of
work. Top destinations include India, Qatar, the United States, Thailand, the
United Kingdom, Saudi Arabia, Japan, Brunei Darussalam, Australia, and Canada;</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">A
long-standing economic agreement underpins a close relationship with India. The
country receives foreign aid from India, Japan, the UK, the US, the EU, China,
Switzerland, and Scandinavian countries; </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Agriculture
employs 76% of the workforce, services 18% and manufacturing/craft-based
industry 6%.<sup> </sup>Industry mainly involves the processing of agricultural
produce, including jute, sugarcane, tobacco, and grain. Its workforce of about
10 million suffers from a severe shortage of skilled labor; </span></span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgftBiBxtSmghR_WUm-KfVyKxHmRcVQoqAkoAkkJW4RQ_G0hUIVRHc7Yz571nvcEQpkDPF7xbB70UqxJzP7Kbo-GB1U-G4QLNkJrv7Q5LkhQylQFqxD0tQJS1brEJHaKm63zSzrKiZX3n5p/s1600/bl38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgftBiBxtSmghR_WUm-KfVyKxHmRcVQoqAkoAkkJW4RQ_G0hUIVRHc7Yz571nvcEQpkDPF7xbB70UqxJzP7Kbo-GB1U-G4QLNkJrv7Q5LkhQylQFqxD0tQJS1brEJHaKm63zSzrKiZX3n5p/s1600/bl38.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The ancient city of Bhaktapur, a short drive from Kathmandu is the 3rd largest city in the Kathmandu Valley dating back several centuries and currently has a population of approximately 300,000 inhabitants</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span></span></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bbJl6i3MXWiGLiUdSd0QYfYG2sKsp7Jk-y7L4ghRFzLCfmJLGf44SykuLEiffxafguvbD9LvMz00bQ50Hp9VHBfKaQVtpbV6L-UPWkME7px7iXMcHfDOtDlpgzBDFQmPoUyriPVQfMWp/s1600/bl39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bbJl6i3MXWiGLiUdSd0QYfYG2sKsp7Jk-y7L4ghRFzLCfmJLGf44SykuLEiffxafguvbD9LvMz00bQ50Hp9VHBfKaQVtpbV6L-UPWkME7px7iXMcHfDOtDlpgzBDFQmPoUyriPVQfMWp/s1600/bl39.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The living and working ancient city of Bhaktapur has the best preserved Palace courtyards and old city center in Nepal and is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO for its rich culture, temples and wood, metal and stone artwork</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span></span></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjF25amQCzP5S5Q3TQUvIW5okUa41Hfp3Kn_g6KKTjxsjYqBxf3Mt4rSbK_D9mv9b9ImhE6A1cAXbu1KIlc5F0pw1kCPr4iXTfqpKfOOxFI9BViF5rHEmnuHB7KpIOxea0mVA2twBhGzbF/s1600/bl37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjF25amQCzP5S5Q3TQUvIW5okUa41Hfp3Kn_g6KKTjxsjYqBxf3Mt4rSbK_D9mv9b9ImhE6A1cAXbu1KIlc5F0pw1kCPr4iXTfqpKfOOxFI9BViF5rHEmnuHB7KpIOxea0mVA2twBhGzbF/s1600/bl37.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Another Bhaktapur perfectly restored Palace courtyard with ancient clay brick/stone and wood work</span></strong></td></tr>
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<strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">More Fast Facts</span></strong></div>
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<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span> </div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Erosion
of the Himalayas is a very important source of sediment, which flows via several
great rivers (the Indus to the Indian Ocean, and the Ganges and Brahmaputra river
system) to the Bay of Bengal; <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Nepal is
one of the few countries in Asia to abolish the death penalty and the first
country in Asia to rule in favor of same-sex marriage. Nepal's Supreme Court in
2007 granted full rights for LGBT individuals, including the right to marry and
now can get citizenship as a third gender rather than male or female;<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Human trafficking </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">is a
major problem in Nepal. Nepali victims are trafficked within Nepal, to India,
the Middle East, and other areas such as Malaysia and forced to become
prostitutes, domestic servants, beggars, factory workers, mine workers, circus
performers, child soldiers, and others. Sex trafficking is particularly rampant
within Nepal and to India, with as many as 5,000 to 10,000 women and girls trafficked
to India alone each year; <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">The
dramatic differences in elevation found in Nepal result in a variety of biomes,
from tropical savannas along the Indian border, to subtropical broadleaf and
coniferous forests in the Hill Region, to temperate broadleaf and coniferous
forests on the slopes of the Himalaya, to montane grasslands and shrublands and
rock and ice at the highest elevations;<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Energy
needs are primarily met by fuel wood (68%) agricultural waste (15%), animal
dung (8%), and imported fossil fuel (8%). Except for some lignite deposits,
Nepal has no known oil, gas or coal deposits. All commercial fossil fuels (oil
and coal) are either imported from India or from international markets routed
through India and China. Fuel imports absorb over one-fourth of Nepal's foreign
exchange earnings. Only about 1% energy need is fulfilled by electricity.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Paradoxically,
the perennial nature of Nepali rivers and the steep gradient of the country's
topography provide ideal conditions for the development of some of the world's
largest hydroelectric projects;<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Only
about 40% of Nepal's population has access to electricity. The electrification
rate in urban areas is 90%, whereas the rate for rural areas is only 5%. Power
cuts of up to 22 hours a day takes place in peak demand periods of winter and
the peak electricity demand is almost double the capability or dependable
capacity; <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: #252525; font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Disease prevalence is higher in Nepal than it is in other
South Asian countries, especially in rural areas. Leading diseases and
illnesses include diarrhea, gastrointestinal disorders, goiter, intestinal
parasites, leprosy, visceral leishmaniasis (black or Dumdum fever and is the second-largest parasitic killer in the world after malaria) and tuberculosis;</span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Bhaktapur boasts guesthouses and restaurants in an out of this - old world, medieval setting </span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Old world meets new - Bhaktapur City</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Patan Durbar Square - Kathmandu</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Pokhara is arguably the second largest Nepalese city with a population of 300,000 inhabitants, making it one of the most densely populated cities in the country. The city is located approximately 200 km west of the country's capital, Kathmandu and is the most popular tourist destination in Nepal. Three out of ten highest mountains in the world - Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I and Manaslu are within 30 miles (linear distance) of the city, so that the northern skyline of the city offers a very close view of the Himalayas. Due to its proximity to the Annapurna mountain range, the city is also a base for trekkers undertaking the Annapurna Circuit through the ACAP region of the Annapurna ranges and the Himalayas; Pokhara is the largest tourist city in the country, home to great Himalayan treks, residence of a large number of British and Indian Gurkha soldiers. This makes Pokhara the most expensive city in the country. </span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Pokhara with its signature Lake is a must see, must visit for every tourist visiting Nepal</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Centre Point - the main Pokhara thoroughfare where human development and nature appear to co-exist beside one another in a rather bizarre fashion</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The environment takes priority Lakeside Pokhara</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Adventure tourism central - where it all begins!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Pokhara has countless accommodation options ranging from budget to top of the range - upmarket accommodation in a laid back and relatively uncongested, lakeside environment ideal for both hiking and trekking.</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Bargains galore!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Nepalese Graffiti - Pokhara</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Lakeside leisure - Pokhara</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Local garments on offer - Pokhara</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Hiking and trekking accoutrements</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Nepalese Legends - 3 Salutes and 3 Cheers!</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Light Shed on Pokhara, Kathmandu and Nepal!</span></strong><br />
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-28699454327410290432014-06-13T01:22:00.000-07:002014-06-13T01:33:30.257-07:00Trekking in Nepal <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Incorporating parts of
Annapurna Conservation Area – Kimche, Ghandruk, Tadapani,
Ghorepani, Hile, Birethanti. </span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pictures and text by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlSEM1Xj8rln8uVYyGBi7KJZ1qdutAycJcMDidLJEZaGEL4BcfZgT0QjtWBa-SxTTby1he0R_fkkoAjVizokMOFng-2yFys4pw64_hB-W8ScBV21_xJcs9nH-P8VDM6OpXOYH02V3ICts/s1600/open+pic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlSEM1Xj8rln8uVYyGBi7KJZ1qdutAycJcMDidLJEZaGEL4BcfZgT0QjtWBa-SxTTby1he0R_fkkoAjVizokMOFng-2yFys4pw64_hB-W8ScBV21_xJcs9nH-P8VDM6OpXOYH02V3ICts/s1600/open+pic.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Quintessential Nepal and Himalayas - moody and mystical - local landmarks festooned with Tibetan prayer flags</span></strong><br />
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<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">My Nepalese sojourn commenced with a hop and skip (Kabul-New Delhi-Kathmandu)
on Spicejet, India’s funky and appropriately branded budget carrier. The absolutely no frills airline is relatively efficient and in spite of a mad
dash transfer in New Delhi, my final destination was beckoning well within half
a travel day.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>On a wing and prayer to Kathmandu </b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">On arrival in Kathmandu I was made acutely aware, even before setting
foot on hallowed Nepalese soil, of the extent to which people's lives - locals
as well as tourists - are in the hands of the Gods and bio-physical elements.
The loss of 16 Sherpas on the slopes of Everest, to a deadly avalanche of ice
and snow, barely weeks earlier was one such cataclysmic event. This resulted in
the closure of the 2014 climbing season (with its short April-June window), part
expressions of solidarity, respect and frustration by the Sherpa and climbing community
at government intransigence at putting
together a comprehensive social welfare and benefits package for the tragically
departed mountain guides and their remaining families.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Another was more real and
personal. The short flip from New Delhi was uneventful but on our final
approach to Kathmandu we were promptly put in a holding pattern as we began to
circle, at arm's length, towering stacks of angry and badly bruised cumulonimbus
storm clouds. After what seemed like a lifetime and dozens of dizzying circuits
we finally landed. We were immediately greeted by a congested, capital city in
helter-skelter mode as passengers, pedestrians and commuters scattered in the
darkness under torrential downpours. The theme infinitesimal, inconsequential
and fallible stayed with me throughout my visit and short trek as we were
exposed to the discomfort of whimsical weather, steep terrain and fast flowing
rivers, all the while buzzed in the distance by search and rescue helicopters
going about their business.</span><br />
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<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">Due to my general aversion for capital cities, I was booked on an early morning
domestic flight to Pokhara, barely hours after my arrival. There was however
ample time to enjoy the heart-warming hospitality of a former work colleague
and his family with authentic Nepali cuisine and a tall, cracked Tuborg beer. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">My first full day in Nepal was not without its own drama as it appeared
as if the entire mountain kingdom was clouded out and flights thoroughly
grounded despite the attentions of countless giddy and impatient foreigners. The
domestic departure lounge resembled an inner-city, base camp struck down with a
sinister malaise as passengers idled around for the weather to clear. I blended
into the drab decor with my very ordinary apparel and outdated 'hiking' gear, outdone
by a ‘branded’ frenzy of specialist, outdoor adventure equipment every
conceivable colour of the neonic rainbow. It reminded me that I should make a
point of procuring a hilariously funny, anti-consumerism branded t-shirt with a
catchy ‘Hey Fuck Face’ phrase ripping off the well-known adventure brand. </span><br />
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<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"> </span></div>
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<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">It was not particularly comforting to think that the gaudy garb and get
up of the average trekker is probably valued at more than the average Nepali annual
wage – more than likely far in excess when one considers that GDP per capita
earnings are around $800 pa - sobering to say the least! I was quickly educated
as to the distinction between hiking and trekking, the Nepalese way, in this part
of the world. It's a rather significant one when you consider that the trekking
brand is synonymous with Nepal and the Himalayas. Mere, less cool, mortals hike
and sightsee basing themselves out of fixed tourist accommodation conducting
mainly day trips into the immediate area, often unguided, before returning to
the creature comforts of their home base. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Trekking most certainly has a more serious side .....dressed stone and masonry work of exceptional quality - solid, sustainable, earthy and very pleasing to the eye </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Trekking is mainly guided and 'rolling' in nature where village-based
guesthouses or lodges are used, en route, with all amenities including catering
(dinner and breakfast) and bedding provided as part of a package deal. Its
mainly the super-cool that trek and its worn as a badge of courage. A variation
to the theme, the exclusive domain of the uber wealthy, is camp trekking which
is a throwback to the original form of trekking prior to the introduction of
homestays or guesthouses. Porters are used extensively to carry the full set of
camping equipment and accoutrements in addition to the trekking guide(s) and
camp is set up at the end of each day at designated camp sites. A typical colonial
African safari, of sorts, in Asia minus the lions, elephants and antelope. It
was not uncommon in the 1950s and 1960s for porters to be saddled with loads of
up to 100kgs per day over extended treks. Decades later the loads dropped to
approximately 70kgs and nowadays porters do not normally shoulder more than 30kgs
per day.</span> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Easier on the eye and some of the older, more traditional accommodation establishments catering primarily for trekkers depicting high quality stonework with exquisite surrounding mountain views</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A more upmarket accommodation establishment en route to Ghandruk</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Accommodation options aplenty at both Upper and Lower Ghorepani bring into question the issues of sustainability and over-development</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">It was pleasing to note that a regulatory framework has been introduced,
into the entire trekking industry, by the Nepali government through a
qualification and registration system for service providers – guesthouses/lodges,
trekking guides and porters with the Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal (TAAN).
Similarly, trekkers are legally required
by the National Trust for Conservation to have a valid entry permit into the
relevant trekking area. In our case this was the Annapurna (Nepali for Goddess
of the Harvest) Conservation Area. Furthermore, the Trekkers’ Information Management
System (TIMS) captures all relevant data into a database enabling, presumably,
accurate tracking of trekker whereabouts and area-wide carrying capacities
expressly for management purposes.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Measures put in place by the government and allied trekking association to regulate the industry </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Access point to the Annapurna Conservation Area </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">According to my own expert trekking guide, Krisna Bahadur Gurung (</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="mailto:krisnababu22@hotmail.com" target="_blank"><span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white;">krisnababu22@hotmail.com</span></a><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white;"> </span></span><span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Mobile no. +977- 9846104807 Government
license no.406 from ACME Adventure Treks) its not only highly recommended but
also mandatory to contract the services of a suitably qualified guide on any
trek. On our short trek it was evident that this requirement is openly flaunted
by foreigners to the detriment of the trekkers themselves (personal safety and
security as well as the loss of an important socio-cultural teaching and
learning opportunity) and also the industry (employment and revenue generation
opportunities for Nepal). Its understandable that free-spirited individuals or
groups would wish to do their own thing but I have an issue when people are
downright irresponsible and blatantly break the law.</span> </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioDEf3R6kvyhUWMhYWvuQN1jdJJgOwiv38Qo-s_EDdaiPUom5qu403zmhsw3eln9FXNPKPXq3YUI5YN-dO1K3ASNxAQ-82LqcEZSS35xsmpGi6TMjjeeOfxTBf0rzTKDiG5jn6iZTlHvdX/s1600/krisna+cooking.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioDEf3R6kvyhUWMhYWvuQN1jdJJgOwiv38Qo-s_EDdaiPUom5qu403zmhsw3eln9FXNPKPXq3YUI5YN-dO1K3ASNxAQ-82LqcEZSS35xsmpGi6TMjjeeOfxTBf0rzTKDiG5jn6iZTlHvdX/s1600/krisna+cooking.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Krisna trying his hand in the kitchen at one of our overnight stops</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG54RTlxKXofd4_RsHCXBr8mEzJefF4UxZ8fEi8ch9YdNFlGqDnawvNs7duIQqemLmatZ_lEB2alwM9_J4YRr0JudmJgrwpXIRIRBS6RQR44uzkMUxz_fJpDivrUGYe0iXEHkyDpOqfcRe/s1600/barry+krisna+stove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times New Roman;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG54RTlxKXofd4_RsHCXBr8mEzJefF4UxZ8fEi8ch9YdNFlGqDnawvNs7duIQqemLmatZ_lEB2alwM9_J4YRr0JudmJgrwpXIRIRBS6RQR44uzkMUxz_fJpDivrUGYe0iXEHkyDpOqfcRe/s1600/barry+krisna+stove.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Nothing beats the heat of a good wood burning stove! The blogger is flanked by Buddhi (L) and Krisna (R), seasoned trekking guides that have racked up over 50 years solid experience between the two of them throughout the Himalayas</b></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Onto more pleasurable pursuits …. trekking in the Annapurna Conservation
Area which is, essentially, a fascinating, highly successful, age-old
sustainable tourism / local economic development model that WORKS. It's so
simple and seems to come so naturally to the rural Nepalese people, largely
without any support or direct intervention from the government. It’s
predominantly centred upon the best-fit and sustainable use of bio-physical and
other resources at their disposal. Have the intoxicating and invigorating Himalayan
mountains (Nepali for Mountain of Snows); an extensive working and community
maintained network of trails/treks; countless villages with rudimentary or more
advanced homestays; spice it up with a dash of danger – masochism; the allure
and mystic of Tibetan Buddhism spirituality; throw in Nepali nonchalance and
charm and it all contributes to an adventure tourism cocktail par excellence.</span> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq4xHIfGOmQl3KyUyy_QgU8cvS7ru-1TaIIoQoX4JfD2-M6w6Pbx2k-R1q64rctpH9rJ5LkoafETzv5f6sLCRi7RmMon-MVtDBKqIn7Fxz_zQ3Rk35wzmIv8wRaS_nyYO2MWzW2Ely9VVA/s1600/Snowmelt+Bireth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq4xHIfGOmQl3KyUyy_QgU8cvS7ru-1TaIIoQoX4JfD2-M6w6Pbx2k-R1q64rctpH9rJ5LkoafETzv5f6sLCRi7RmMon-MVtDBKqIn7Fxz_zQ3Rk35wzmIv8wRaS_nyYO2MWzW2Ely9VVA/s1600/Snowmelt+Bireth.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">A snow-melt swollen river which will soon convey heavy monsoon rains down to the lowlands</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93owNZ0ZhqYnEOHNcpKsUUTO0tlW8ACMmoMB5Q1-PmAei89egQvzgPm_zARy0LcBoWIfJ9eynmB9P3PAz5VvnYsgI3iNSrytChVJ-bC5j10m7dac4S4vLH_6xx_RErRHCF3dVmWhw1qZ_/s1600/bl18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times New Roman;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93owNZ0ZhqYnEOHNcpKsUUTO0tlW8ACMmoMB5Q1-PmAei89egQvzgPm_zARy0LcBoWIfJ9eynmB9P3PAz5VvnYsgI3iNSrytChVJ-bC5j10m7dac4S4vLH_6xx_RErRHCF3dVmWhw1qZ_/s1600/bl18.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Pre-dawn view of Machhapuchhre or Fishtail Range with the peak itself rising to 6997m captured from Tadapani </b></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMq20GhzckRfHHBL2X-trIA2-Udg-V8iuD__8B8Ly_a5jppsA4cWOAJHjK154LUTNTwFr-mfqP5QUdwDeFkJHp_z-MaXvGyfnkSbOWvD0wG1XdOAQr4sWIWtP9pGIzyvuStmmoW8Cs-gDE/s1600/bl2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMq20GhzckRfHHBL2X-trIA2-Udg-V8iuD__8B8Ly_a5jppsA4cWOAJHjK154LUTNTwFr-mfqP5QUdwDeFkJHp_z-MaXvGyfnkSbOWvD0wG1XdOAQr4sWIWtP9pGIzyvuStmmoW8Cs-gDE/s1600/bl2.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>A series of spectacular waterfalls encountered, prior to the onset of the monsoon season, along the descending trek from Hile to Birethanti</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The mountainous massif of Annapurna South</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">The theme of Nepali self-determination, resilience and sustainability is
all pervading - most foodstuffs are
grown or produced locally - organic vegetables (potatoes, green beans, corn,
cabbage, spinach, field greens; diary (buffalo & beef); poultry (primarily
for egg production) and cereal crops (rice, millet, wheat). Other essentials
are packed in by mule-trains or by horseback. As transient travellers it’s
fascinating to observe highly successful farming practices in action -
irrigation, planting, mulching, soil improvement and enrichment with manure
from small and large livestock.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzS6l4SEjet98qWaMVb8WEfyf2UKEkgKF7k5i0ynK0q3-01oiSmHwcdhLuTmXyjTi6TgF1CII064M2IDEoqg3GW0ZIOJu_PqNhlsnFniT1TFEw2fNphDy0p24Ruc5E9VLtI35_wt6Vk6Rb/s1600/Muletrains.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times New Roman;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzS6l4SEjet98qWaMVb8WEfyf2UKEkgKF7k5i0ynK0q3-01oiSmHwcdhLuTmXyjTi6TgF1CII064M2IDEoqg3GW0ZIOJu_PqNhlsnFniT1TFEw2fNphDy0p24Ruc5E9VLtI35_wt6Vk6Rb/s1600/Muletrains.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Highly prized mule-trains and their drivers traverse the mountains doing the heavy lifting from road heads to remote villages packing almost every conceivable commodity including building materials</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">The farm gate to dinner plate scenario plays itself out daily and whilst
trekking you have the unique opportunity to sample some of the fresh farm
produce on offer. Dal baht or specifically <i>Nepali
chicken dal baht power</i> – <i>packing Himalayan
Power for 24 hours</i> - is standard trekking fare for guides, porters and trekkers
alike providing a solid, wholesome meal. Dal or lentils in the form of a watery
gruel is served together with chicken soup; lightly curried potatoes and green
beans; local greens or Asian spinach with onion and garlic; copious amounts of
rice; and a side serving of spicy pickles.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqysATO-RHLyWQlVpfC5Olz5izu7u21039k5Wf6t33oSHeLgVJJ6zKNyK4Z0K7NBxHZP9sw9Lpo49mDoZ_0fLReEM6oBdQqr961OSFzrNhhZp37h61yoJ78WvVAuFtRwbcKlFpRctCInkc/s1600/dal+baht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqysATO-RHLyWQlVpfC5Olz5izu7u21039k5Wf6t33oSHeLgVJJ6zKNyK4Z0K7NBxHZP9sw9Lpo49mDoZ_0fLReEM6oBdQqr961OSFzrNhhZp37h61yoJ78WvVAuFtRwbcKlFpRctCInkc/s1600/dal+baht.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong><em>Chicken dal baht</em> for 24 hour Himalayan Power .... standard trekking fare village grown and cooked organic food that is wholesome and nutritious </strong></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> <span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Average guesthouse, on trek,
accommodation is priced at around $15 p.n. including a light breakfast. Lunches
and dinners average $5 per meal - hot beverages - an assortment of teas with
masala being my favourite are under a dollar a cup with pots being slightly
cheaper. Alcohol is generally on offer at most guesthouses and large Nepalese
brewed beers including Tuborg, Everest, Gorkha are priced at around $4-5.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFquLt9VuoYYTY38m8CMcS9V866MsaTuU8Z-IZRU-4J2li5zDRuB9aD-NiuNZpQzZFS_Gq_0bJxCdswyCDwsMbmoxDmmyr9TvMTpk2benADAXSO07A20mHGIlekvar76vpbMjbZhnY2CAR/s1600/bl4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times New Roman;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFquLt9VuoYYTY38m8CMcS9V866MsaTuU8Z-IZRU-4J2li5zDRuB9aD-NiuNZpQzZFS_Gq_0bJxCdswyCDwsMbmoxDmmyr9TvMTpk2benADAXSO07A20mHGIlekvar76vpbMjbZhnY2CAR/s1600/bl4.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Trek-side accommodation, dressed up in the local architectural style, providing solid and comfortable lodgings for transient trekkers throughout the Annapurna Conservation Area </b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">In my shortest of interludes I did, however, observe some flaws
particularly around the issue of sustainability and government regulation.
Paradoxically, this is the case in that guesthouse development is burgeoning,
seemingly unchecked, without due consideration for environmental, aesthetic and
pyscho-social carrying capacities. One wonders whether there will be a
reasonable rate of return on capital investments as quaint, trek-side hamlets
mushroom into misplaced dormitory-styled lodgings.</span> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihvYh4Xk4ytEWWhh9VefQIx6xkMXQvcT-dxUG_ffrQhfvfj5U4bnf7CyXcQ5K7CNkrJYe-Cw4iQV2uVze4Gx78xmuxVYEtihMVaDPN2wKOJYUAWjSDyMjGj2Ev55A3L3pyh5BGgb7FUqws/s1600/dev+new+old.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times New Roman;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihvYh4Xk4ytEWWhh9VefQIx6xkMXQvcT-dxUG_ffrQhfvfj5U4bnf7CyXcQ5K7CNkrJYe-Cw4iQV2uVze4Gx78xmuxVYEtihMVaDPN2wKOJYUAWjSDyMjGj2Ev55A3L3pyh5BGgb7FUqws/s1600/dev+new+old.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Uncontrolled, local guesthouse development poses a threat to an 'authentic trekking experience' where there is seemingly little or no regard for ecological and psycho-social impacts</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLKEFiKxFNhyZnqyaTeBgDbBeXYmcZVABSFKl-RtDr1HB3KxR7q9FXupxxPFzVdd-XSuzhi72JJ6fMAiwykI53QyFLgEV7oDC35XnCJFiPeXdqv6dBYv9kDhNg_D2bdP7uEC0IMyGZiW8V/s1600/Development.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLKEFiKxFNhyZnqyaTeBgDbBeXYmcZVABSFKl-RtDr1HB3KxR7q9FXupxxPFzVdd-XSuzhi72JJ6fMAiwykI53QyFLgEV7oDC35XnCJFiPeXdqv6dBYv9kDhNg_D2bdP7uEC0IMyGZiW8V/s1600/Development.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Yet another eye-catching, trek side accommodation establishment </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">In the area where ostensibly
regulation is in place i.e. the requirement to use, as a non-negotiable, TAAN
trained and certified guides this has apparently fallen by the wayside in
recent years. No matter how tame and user-friendly the trekking experience may
seem (which is definitely not the case) I'm of the view that no-one should be
permitted to trek without using the service of a qualified guide. </span><br />
<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"> </span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Whereas trekking masses may find Wi-Fi, internet and mobile phone access
cool and a natural extension of their everyday life, I personally find it inappropriate,
intrusive and uncool in a place like Nepal especially in the Himalayan Mountains.
One has the desire to ‘get away from it all’ but when confronted with fellow
trekkers phubbing away and /or surfing the net on their mobiles or glued to
television screens spruiking gibberish it becomes a bit too much.</span> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWB-UaEtTTaQ6GgmI3ij3I19ad3HnMaDRQfKCPmODExG6Q_tqlObcKovvM8d4O4I7aqQZxRaONckl5hciekyr23Xjw8gMEWnt6wl8Qs9aDXZR8u6_LLzJ6XuPV7PyTWpdjGXGmUzMqWNU/s1600/Development+wifi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWB-UaEtTTaQ6GgmI3ij3I19ad3HnMaDRQfKCPmODExG6Q_tqlObcKovvM8d4O4I7aqQZxRaONckl5hciekyr23Xjw8gMEWnt6wl8Qs9aDXZR8u6_LLzJ6XuPV7PyTWpdjGXGmUzMqWNU/s1600/Development+wifi.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Creature comforts such as home-made apple pie, mobile phone networks, Wi-Fi and pizzas are largely misplaced in such an extraordinary setting, in my view, and discerning trekkers will find signs like this somewhat amusing but beyond that intrusive and off-putting. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwmUw4UvsL30h27Sl_2CIIJc5Duj0FJp8pIA6Tlt9smyNtFlK2Pb420eNNv-M28zqxXOXH0F92lCF8SF239zN4FVu0d9A-1OITFcwz7F6vQbAZ6JfAR4fgEJksfO2s12ZYxZ0epc4ftMEy/s1600/Signage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwmUw4UvsL30h27Sl_2CIIJc5Duj0FJp8pIA6Tlt9smyNtFlK2Pb420eNNv-M28zqxXOXH0F92lCF8SF239zN4FVu0d9A-1OITFcwz7F6vQbAZ6JfAR4fgEJksfO2s12ZYxZ0epc4ftMEy/s1600/Signage.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">One of the more interesting signs encountered - it DOES NOT indicate a Wi-Fi free zone but rather significant, village-based WASH - water, sanitation and hygiene improvements</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">A frequent, personal lament was for a trek less travelled and trammelled
because I found the sheer numbers of people on the trek and overnighting at
guesthouses difficult to contend with but I had to remind myself that the land
use option or protected area status (conservation) was far from pristine
wilderness, where carrying capacities are reduced significantly for specific ecological
and social reasons. In spite of the heavy trekking traffic, which includes
regular mule trains, the walking surface was in superb condition (well drained,
expertly stepped, contoured and more often than not paved with durable stone slabs)
and litter was almost non-existent.</span> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqi53BO4tQ58OGrr5xaBfSJ6ak-VpERSfO9b2E8gT-O77lW3nU5UIhiuMxtiuHjI0aXMEN4e-28BSe8-LARm4hJodBpQn0vOYJ3vq6Scn_ZMvW9s0JV1ddw9d7RR-L9uHLwSSK6LfacE2H/s1600/Krisna1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times New Roman;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqi53BO4tQ58OGrr5xaBfSJ6ak-VpERSfO9b2E8gT-O77lW3nU5UIhiuMxtiuHjI0aXMEN4e-28BSe8-LARm4hJodBpQn0vOYJ3vq6Scn_ZMvW9s0JV1ddw9d7RR-L9uHLwSSK6LfacE2H/s1600/Krisna1.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Krisna on the slow, steady ascent to Ghandruk with a clear view of the excellent trekking surface</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYkUei6i636caZKcg6FHZwqA9ufDG-uDmE7nHq27QQqGGhzonnIXYvF3vXWxxmJqgkcsMSiFAtoaHGZxhq8D3Xug3BOUuGdxzbpbLDtNdy5Iteor8EJ1OXDmf8-oZgmFXihH_wq1ZCaon/s1600/Ghorepani.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYkUei6i636caZKcg6FHZwqA9ufDG-uDmE7nHq27QQqGGhzonnIXYvF3vXWxxmJqgkcsMSiFAtoaHGZxhq8D3Xug3BOUuGdxzbpbLDtNdy5Iteor8EJ1OXDmf8-oZgmFXihH_wq1ZCaon/s1600/Ghorepani.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Traditional gateway to many of the villages and accommodation establishments within the Annapurna Conservation Area</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Some of my most vivid trekking recollections include: the multi-national
composition of trekkers and the respective groups including countless orderly Asians
(mainly Koreans, Chinese and Japanese); Europeans - Germans and odd Australians
with representation across all age groups. Strikingly, a fair percentage of trekkers
were solitary men and women with their own trekking guide - testimony to the
trust, safety and security, credibility, and reliability of the TAAN
professional association system. Trekking days were generally very enjoyable
and varied, filled with 1001 Namastes and hi's due to ‘moderate’ trekking traffic
which tends to peak during the high season which extends from September–December.
The month of May is on the cusp of the 3 month monsoon season which extends through
to early September where water and river levels rise appreciably and often dramatically
in the form of flash flooding and rockfalls/mudslides.</span> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">This gently meandering stream will turn into a raging torrent in a few months with the onset of the monsoon season</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The Annapurna Autobahn - a private joke shared with Krisna on our final descent from Ghorepani when we encountered a large, boisterous group of German trekkers</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnojT7Q1Cw5jh-QZaSb6JlbZzXlMrRhxUFgD987FYWbQ3vl7IlKMWGj1iwW68Vso15bKndE1wuxbCK1KgL4jzEZj_3qSY13k6Dl5Tt947xiFJT7oLpa0LdJXYTVQ8AOhnsYlCnro1Uj3ON/s1600/A+story+to+be+told.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times New Roman;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnojT7Q1Cw5jh-QZaSb6JlbZzXlMrRhxUFgD987FYWbQ3vl7IlKMWGj1iwW68Vso15bKndE1wuxbCK1KgL4jzEZj_3qSY13k6Dl5Tt947xiFJT7oLpa0LdJXYTVQ8AOhnsYlCnro1Uj3ON/s1600/A+story+to+be+told.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>One can only but wonder .......</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Krisna Bahadur Gurung was a revelation, fantastic trekking guide and
wonderful travel companion. His quick
wit and ‘old world’ turn of phrase was quaint and very amusing. Krisna would
refer to the <i>‘mountains as being shy’</i>
when they were obscured by clouds; bashfully introduced me to raksi – a local,
millet-brewed white spirit which is obviously a cure for all ills – when taken
in moderation. On an assessment of menus at respective guesthouses he would
refer to two main categories of meals – light or heavy with an obvious
reference to calorific intake to sustain one throughout a trekking day. He
revelled in our celebratory drink at the end of our trek and time together and
was obviously highly appreciative of the generous tip that was deservedly bestowed on him. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">One of my most bizarre on trek observations was that I soon became convinced,
by the look on people’s faces and associated body language, how little they
were prepared for or were actually enjoying their trekking experience. It was rare to
encounter happy, smiling trekkers and there was a real sense that many of the
trekkers had been conned or seduced by sexy marketing, unwittingly, into the
experience. I was on a perpetual high with the ‘entire package deal’ and found
it very difficult to relate to strained, bland or occasional pissed off faces – it all seemed so out
of place.</span> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A creative, non-verbal way to express, in more ways than one, the immense satisfaction and exhilaration derived from trekking Nepal! <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Courtesy of Gerda Kollmann</span></span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>One of many guesthouses encountered catering for the needs of most trekkers including spectacular mountain views</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Finally..... yet another guesthouse in the Ghandruk area clearly depicting the care, pride and pleasure put into keeping trekkers comfortable, secure and safe</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-51342371929811387912014-06-06T11:23:00.001-07:002014-06-12T23:41:19.030-07:00Nepal's Greatest Export and its Thriving Remittance Economy<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Text and Pictures by the Blogger </span></h3>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Mention Nepal and the unacquainted masses will
immediately conjure up breathless images of the snow-capped rooftop of the
world - Mt. Everest together with Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in
their sublime 1953 summit, arguably one of but not the greatest Nepali export. The
spectacular Himalayan landscape, eco-and adventure tourism opportunities and
diverse, exotic cultures of Nepal represent considerable potential for a vibrant
travel and leisure industry, but growth in this industry has been stifled, in
recent years, by political insecurity and poor infrastructure. Despite these
problems, in 2012 the number of international tourists visiting Nepal was
598,204, a 10% increase on the previous year. The tourism sector contributed
nearly 3% of national GDP in 2012 and is the second biggest foreign income
earner after remittances. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It’s
no longer a stretch of the imagination and its an established fact that the
Nepali people themselves are the country’s greatest export, especially when one
considers that out of </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">a population of approximately 27 million, nearly 2
million are absentee or migrant workers living abroad. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Remittance, the transfer of foreign
earnings (saved salaries and wages) by an absent worker to his or her home
country, has become the mainstay of the Nepalese economy especially in the past
decade. According to MPI Data Hub “Migration facts, stats and maps,” remittance
received increased to $3,507 million in 2010 from $111 million in 2000.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Remittance is one of the fastest growing sectors in the Nepali economy and is estimated to be equivalent to 25-30% of GDP</b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Nepal's gross domestic product for 2012 was estimated at
over $17.921 billion (adjusted to Nominal GDP). In 2010, agriculture accounted
for 36%, services comprise 48%, and industry 15% of Nepal's GDP. While agriculture and industry are contracting,
the contribution by the service sector is increasing. Agriculture employs 76%
of the workforce, services 18% and manufacturing/craft-based industry 6%.<sup> </sup>Remittance
</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">is one of the
fastest growing sectors in the Nepali economy </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">and is estimated
to be equivalent to 25–30% of GDP with the figure pegged at 23% </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">in 2013. This is
significant in any impoverished country and particularly in the case of </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Nepal which
was ranked in the 157<sup>th</sup> place on the Human Development Index (HDI - in
2013) and is one of the least developed nations in the entire world.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">According
to Singh (2013), Nepal is among the top five remittance countries globally with
Tajikistan, Tonga, Lesotho and Moldova ranking above Nepal. Humble remittance
beginnings can be traced back to </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">the early 19th century when a
sizeable Nepali population were conscripted into the British army and subsequently
served with the allied powers during successive World Wars. </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Nepal
receives approximately $50 million a year through its highly acclaimed Gurkha soldiers
who serve in the Indian and British armies. With the advent of the private
security contractors (PSC) industry, captured in a previous posting entitled <i>Gargantuan Gurkhas – Nepal’s Unsung Heroes! </i>(<a href="http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/">http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/</a>),
remittance from this source alone is largely unknown, but substantial
nevertheless. This is particularly the case when one considers that several
thousand Nepali PSCs have been contracted to provide base protection and other
security services in Iraq and Afghanistan for well over a decade. A wholly
Nepali Gurkha company in Afghanistan has currently over 700 former soldiers serving
on its payroll alone. This data discrepancy confirms the immense challenge that
the Nepali government has with regard to poor or </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">undocumented labor migration information as its ‘official’
record has it that in 2010 there were only 472 migrant workers in Afghanistan.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgle9q-YbHsGinuTo1krJT2q0eReS23Z0DjK0dh6AESl7fteN0845Y6ekPwnqxCuQRpS-IIkTiUhvsW-FPPX41VmA8DgCL_1nKJczLQvH2iKDjotZGadyscfZo_e5zLYooxI0jh0ab0LDXs/s1600/bl42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgle9q-YbHsGinuTo1krJT2q0eReS23Z0DjK0dh6AESl7fteN0845Y6ekPwnqxCuQRpS-IIkTiUhvsW-FPPX41VmA8DgCL_1nKJczLQvH2iKDjotZGadyscfZo_e5zLYooxI0jh0ab0LDXs/s1600/bl42.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Formal remittance or money transfer avenues but there are clear indications that inflows of remittance via 'informal channels' are equally problematic</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Malaysia (146,938) and the Gulf countries (Qatar
- 26,993, Saudi Arabia - 46,047, Bahrain – 16,673 and UAE - 21,346) accounted
for 90% of Nepali migrant workers in 2010. Unprecedented migration commenced
with the </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">construction boom in the emerging
economies in Asia and Gulf countries in the 1980s, providing the ideal
opportunity for “young, energetic and dashing Nepalese to venture out for
foreign employment and substantially higher income opportunities – all in the quest
for a respectable and prestigious life.” Shumshere contends that this has led
to “political and economic empowerment of people including women, offering an
alternative to land-based and agrarian wealth. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Around 83% of the
total population lives in rural areas, meaning that not only is Nepal primarily
an agrarian economy, but that population pressure on land and natural resources
is also rather severe. It’s for this very reason that at least one individual
from each household is engaged in employment abroad. Therefore, remittance has
become an important source of household income for a large section of the
country’s population. For low income people, remittance is the most important and
often the only means of survival.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The rate of unemployment and underemployment
in Nepal, which approaches half of the working-age population, is another key
factor in the remittance economy. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">According to the Nepali Department of Foreign
Employment the number of Nepali labor working abroad has been increasing
through the years and in 2012 stood at 530,250. Nepal sends 1% skilled and 29%
semi-skilled workers to about 108 destinations. The remaining 70% of workers
are unskilled. This shows there is a high demand for unskilled labor abroad. </span><span lang="EN" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Thus many citizens move to other countries in search of work. Favored destinations,
not mentioned previously, include India, the United States, Thailand, the
United Kingdom, Japan, Brunei Darussalam, Australia, and Canada. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">A long-standing economic agreement
underpins a close relationship with India. Nepal receives substantial foreign
aid from India, Japan, the UK, the US, the EU, China, Switzerland, and
Scandinavian countries. Poverty is acute; per-capita income is around $1,000. The
distribution of wealth among the Nepalese is consistent with that in many
developed and developing countries: the highest 10% of households control 39%
of the national wealth and the lowest 10% control only 2.6%. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">The proportion of poor Nepali people has declined
substantially in recent years. The % of people living below the international
poverty line (people earning less than US$1.25 per day) has halved in only
seven years. At this measure of poverty the % of poor people declined from 53%
in 2003/2004 to 25% in 2010/2011. With a higher poverty line of US$2 per-capita
per day, poverty declined by one quarter to 57%. However, the income distribution remains
grossly uneven. In a recent survey, Nepal has performed extremely well in
reducing poverty along with Rwanda and Bangladesh as the percentage of poor
dropped to 44% of the population in 2011 from 65% in 2006 –4% points per year,
which means that Nepal has made significant improvement in sectors like
nutrition, child mortality, and electricity supply. Its argued that if the progress
of reducing poverty continues at this rate, then it's predicted that Nepal will
halve the current poverty rate and eradicate it within the next 20 years. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>For low income Nepalese remittance is the most important means of survival</b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Nepal has close ties with both of its neighbors, India
and China. In accordance with a long-standing treaty, Indian and Nepalese
citizens may travel to each other's countries without a passport or visa.
Nepalese citizens may work in India without legal restriction. The Indian Army
maintains seven Gurkha regiments consisting of Gurkha troops recruited mostly
from Nepal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">In conclusion, Nepal’s astounding growth in remittances
is not without its “issues” or very real dangers. Singh cautions that “</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">no matter how much
remittance increases every year, the threat to the Nepalese economy because
overt dependence on remittance from migrant labor may not be sustainable in the
long term.” Retention of Nepal’s greatest export, its productive workforce,
should become a policy imperative otherwise domestic productivity will continue
to decline and the country could face a human resource crisis in the near future.
Domestic and international workforce planning need to be encapsulated into a broad-based,
labor policy framework that is able to address current and emerging challenges
in a proactive fashion. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Some
of the key findings and issues flagged by Singh include: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The
increasing trend of migration and problems faced by migrants abroad,
socio-cultural and exploitation also means there is serious problem </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">with migration governance
and a lack of government responsiveness towards creating job opportunities in
Nepal; <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<div class="Default" style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Though migrant labor has led to high inflows of remitted
income, it has not impacted the economy in a positive way. Slow economic growth
coupled with high import-based consumption is still a problem in the country; <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<div class="Default" style="margin-left: 18pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The flow of remittance through informal channels has also
been a hindrance to economic development. This has encouraged money laundering.
<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">References: <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Dr
Ashok Shumshere J.B.R. 2010 The Himalayan Times. <i>Remittance Economy<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span><br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Ajita
Singh. 2012. <i>Remittance and Nepalese Economy: Some Issues</i>. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-75353781588929844302014-06-04T07:23:00.000-07:002014-06-12T23:57:15.873-07:00Gargantuan Gurkhas - Nepal's Unsung Heroes!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Words and pictures by
Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Notwithstanding the
controversy and professional distinction between groupings within the broader
Gurkha Contingent (GC) – Indian, British, Nepali, Malaysian and Singaporean, this
post addresses all Nepalese Gurkhas wherever they serve(d) and is designed to
cast a spotlight on their immense military, peacekeeping and humanitarian
achievements spanning centuries. It’s also an attempt to personalise everyday interactions
with these amazing people and convey the extent to which our lives, as civilian
clients, are made so safe and normal by their shadowy, protective presence. It also celebrates the Nepali heritage, work ethos
and professionalism, rich culture and traditions all of which have withstood, unwaveringly,
the test of time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMAIFg2wZ0I5ktgY75kUqTgAzDaNdxx9JQ4qG-jvAdsgzzyQzmRmiVzv03sGYfbxsmJIUK22ryGOTEJlpWjk6w86JpxXom8l88Zmreb351s2WMJwQqZt_Yaj_XnylIy2ZdZkl-GPf32QKf/s1600/bl8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMAIFg2wZ0I5ktgY75kUqTgAzDaNdxx9JQ4qG-jvAdsgzzyQzmRmiVzv03sGYfbxsmJIUK22ryGOTEJlpWjk6w86JpxXom8l88Zmreb351s2WMJwQqZt_Yaj_XnylIy2ZdZkl-GPf32QKf/s1600/bl8.jpg" height="464" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Colours and symbolism of Nepal's famous Gurkhas with, at centrepiece, their traditional and signature weapon the khukuri - a forward curving Nepalese knife. Gurkhas have an indisputable reputation for their fearless military prowess</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">In recent travel to
Nepal and in countless conversations with Nepalese, serving and retired Gurkhas,
the perpetual questions of: Why has so
little been said and written about the achievements of the Warrior Gurkhas (the absence of stories by Gurkhas for Nepali
and broad-based consumption) are generally met by shrugs of the shoulders,
casual nonchalance and sheepish grins – all of a decidedly conspiratorial
nature. In the delightful albeit gung-ho
blog posting by James G, entitled </span><i style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Civilian
Contractors: The Nepali Gurkha in International Security Contracting – October 2010,
</i><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">a number of select quotations, comments and anecdotes extol Gurkha virtues
superbly and imaginatively, some of which are shared below. I hope blend these
into my own personal narrative and experience, with the confidence that I do
our unsung heroes justice.</span></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US" style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">“If a man says he is not afraid of
dying, he is either lying or is a Gurkha”</span></i></b><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">
Field Marshal Sam Manekshaw - Former
Chief of staff of the Indian Army<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Having served, as a
development practitioner, on tours in consecutive fragile and conflict affected
states (Iraq, Timor-Leste and Afghanistan respectively) there is no escaping
the vexing issue of international security contracting and those, civilian
contractors, that ply their trade in this morphing multi-billion dollar
industry. My personal history (mandatory
military conscription and active service in the South West African/Angolan
Border War 1981/82) and subsequent close proximity to many private security contractors
(PSCs) or civilian contractors (especially South African) primarily in Iraq - Baghdad,
prompted me to pen an earlier posting entitled <i>‘Saluting Iraq’s Gentle and Caring Infidels’ (</i></span><a href="http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/2011/02/saluting-iraqs-gentle-and-caring_04.html"><i><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/2011/02/saluting-iraqs-gentle-and-caring_04.html</span></i></a><i><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">). </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Struck by post-Apartheid’s spreading South African
diaspora, military and civilian, I felt compelled to tell our story. Years
later, there is the need to do the same on behalf of Nepali friends, colleagues
and Gurkhas as they too have to contend with their own, equally fascinating diaspora.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">“10 Expat PSC’s aren’t equal to 1 Gurkha PSC – These self-entitled US or
UK PSC’s always have sand in their vaginas despite the fact they get paid 20
times more and do 1/50th the amount of work an ex-Gurkha PSC does.”<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Anon, Security Contractor, Convoy
Escort TL Baghdad, Iraq 2004</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">My most vivid, in field, recollections of Gurkha character and fortitude include snappy salutes and friendly "Good morning Sirs;" immaculately turned out men going about their business with great pride and dedication; a parched, dusty and desolate compound in Kandahar where the only life and greenery was delivered through the patchwork of lovingly tendered vegetable gardens; posted sentries having to put up with semi-inebriated and smart-arsed expats in Baghdad; countrymen and brothers-in-arms drawing great strength and comfort from one another on endless tours of duty far from family and loved ones; mind numbing routine after routine blending into so many years....... its what these men do to support their extended Nepalese families.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Early Gurkha beginnings include the Anglo-Nepalese War
(1814–1816) which was fought between the Gurkha Kingdom of Nepal and the
British East Indian Company as a result of territorial disputes and ruthless
expansionism of both confrontational parties but more so, probably, by the
bullying Brits. The impressive Gorkhali soldiers were recruited mainly from the
Nepali hill tribes such as the Magar, Gurung, Tamang, Sherpa, Chhetri,
Thakuris, Rai and Limbu, although original Gurkhali soldiers were mainly of
Chhetri, Thakuri, Gurung, Magar, Rai and Limbu ethnics. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpakxSf-67RcJAK_HwNunwWSqMGBVuiEaHEVoD6BRQ2NPkraEWWoShZlwyyt3O6A_ij-ZotGMZhfVx77evlxFUqAGREGCK47nNhpAY8S0CUtXxWX77IRrMy6W2qnYNqYZyHixbz-_HbQH1/s1600/bl6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpakxSf-67RcJAK_HwNunwWSqMGBVuiEaHEVoD6BRQ2NPkraEWWoShZlwyyt3O6A_ij-ZotGMZhfVx77evlxFUqAGREGCK47nNhpAY8S0CUtXxWX77IRrMy6W2qnYNqYZyHixbz-_HbQH1/s1600/bl6.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Gurkhas in the making - Nusseree Battalion Circa, 1857</b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There were many battles of which the Battle of Kalanga in
1814 is well documented. Balbhadra Kunwar, who had approximately 600 Gurkhas
under his command, held high ground against some 4,000 attacking British
troops. After being besieged for almost a month and in almost constant mortal
combat Balbhadra and about 70 remaining survivors managed to slip away,
silently and undetected, through the British lines. The war ended with the
signing of the Peace Treaty of Sugauli in 1816 and it was agreed that Gorkhalis
could be recruited to serve <i>under</i> <i>contract</i> in the East India Company's
army. <i>Under contract</i> implies some
form of remuneration and perhaps the true origin of the latter day remittance
economy that thrives within Nepal to this day.
<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In a personal
conversation with Padam Bahadur Limbu MVO (Bahadur Limbu – one of the
original Gurkha Warrior Castes in Nepal), retired British Army Major (2nd Battalion, Royal Gurkha Rifles) and current Senior Project Manager for
IDG Gurkha Security Services (Afghanistan) he confirmed “the pride and
importance of the home-grown, Nepali Gurkha brand name globally, particularly
within military and security contracting circles.” According to him the brand
is indisputable and synonymous with “professionalism, impeccable discipline and
service, integrity, resilience, reliability and unsurpassed bravery and
toughness.” <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">A 3<sup>rd</sup> generation Gurkha, Padam served for
31years in the British Gurkha Army undertaking tours of duty in the Falkland Islands, Bosnia, Sierra
Leone, Iraq, Afghanistan. He was somewhat reluctant to discuss his first tour of duty, as a very young man, to the distant Falklands War more out of modesty than bravado.
Amongst many personal achievements and distinguished decorations, his
most prized is MVO Member, <span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">The Royal Victorian Order. </span></span><span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white;">Membership is conferred by the reigning monarch, in this case
HM Queen Elizabeth II, on those who have performed personal service for the
sovereign. Padam served directly as Queen's orderly officer at </span><span lang="EN-US"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Buckingham Palace for HM Queen.</span> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCKDZJJuoJUjNnAiMtD6xbB2nTYwWxQnNs3vXl7aqWBfiSYbSSjPc6HYFdPa-bnZQWShY5k2W_z4l5fAWM_CI07bE2ukp-EpyPGkZq6pRPR6h-0Ap6OiZRZw6JmmhA5gfSiOZbQ4O7Izd/s1600/booyaaa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCKDZJJuoJUjNnAiMtD6xbB2nTYwWxQnNs3vXl7aqWBfiSYbSSjPc6HYFdPa-bnZQWShY5k2W_z4l5fAWM_CI07bE2ukp-EpyPGkZq6pRPR6h-0Ap6OiZRZw6JmmhA5gfSiOZbQ4O7Izd/s1600/booyaaa.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Major Padam Bahadur Limbu MVO, proud recipient of the illustrious decoration Member, The Royal Victorian Order together with his family at Buckingham Palace. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(Photo: Courtesy of </span></strong><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Padam Bahadur Limbu)</span> </strong></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span> </div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN">.</span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"> “As a testament to these
fearless little warriors from Nepal, is a story (that can be verified) from the
Falklands Conflict. The Argentinians were dug in on one of the mountains
leading up to Port Stanley and were intent on making a fight of it. When they
were told that they would be up against the Gurkhas, to a man, they either
surrendered or fled, without a shot being fired. Of course, the Ghurkas were
very disappointed with this outcome but I think it speaks volumes of the
reputation of these tough little fighters.”</span></b><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Richard Newson</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHYQCbA1iGQa8h0pV1foCffLXaildHXh-PfWfu_yQCP2p9Dl5qyEeK8lFbh9XkvwjqblOpJXKODPgMLjDWKuKlTWoMPpd_lgcEShdT1vHhyTAX-pVdXCTEnDYn54wLJdI2IEJ-U72EVCIQ/s1600/025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHYQCbA1iGQa8h0pV1foCffLXaildHXh-PfWfu_yQCP2p9Dl5qyEeK8lFbh9XkvwjqblOpJXKODPgMLjDWKuKlTWoMPpd_lgcEShdT1vHhyTAX-pVdXCTEnDYn54wLJdI2IEJ-U72EVCIQ/s1600/025.jpg" height="640" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Major Padam Bahadur Limbu, 2nd Battalion Royal Gurkha Rifles at Buckingham Palace prior to receiving his MVO award for personal service to HM Queen Elizabeth II </strong><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">(Photo: Courtesy of </span></strong><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Padam Bahadur Limbu)</span> </strong></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Of IDG, founded by the rather private and reclusive Ian Douglas
Gordon aka IDG (comrades-in-arms and also ex-officer with the </span>7<sup>th</sup> Duke of Edinburgh’s Own Gurkha
Rifles) <span lang="EN-US">Padam confirmed that within Afghanistan IDG
provides exclusive personal security and key installation/property protections
services to a host of UN agencies country-wide. The company specializes in
Gurkha - 100% Nepali recruited and Indian domiciled – international armed guards that are selected
and placed according to IDG’s stringent selection criteria including a minimum
of 14 years active military service. Unlike other PSCs who use ‘intermediate’
recruitment agencies, IDG is the real deal and currently employs over 700
highly trained and experienced Gurkhas throughout Afghanistan. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US"></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Whereas Nepal's GDP per capita income is estimated at $1,200 - $1,400 pa (2012), most internationally contracted Gurkhas earn this per month. Since most overseas living expenses (accommodation, food, clothing/uniforms) are provided by the contractor or employer, the bulk of savings are remitted back to their families, often living in rural Nepal. Typically, serving Gurkhas have annual leave of about a month where they are flown back home at company expense. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj926m2H4q2DXKq6qYlnOfb7sPeqZLRJtEnq5Zh6NLg06awrXYBphnY2WnZT9J-YxOV6SWpc3Rpv7rAnc3eUJ6nBDf22l-lsXzqTvG-40mT7Z8Y60_sMz_KG0axeq8iXC97mnXrEAyGCGlo/s1600/bl12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj926m2H4q2DXKq6qYlnOfb7sPeqZLRJtEnq5Zh6NLg06awrXYBphnY2WnZT9J-YxOV6SWpc3Rpv7rAnc3eUJ6nBDf22l-lsXzqTvG-40mT7Z8Y60_sMz_KG0axeq8iXC97mnXrEAyGCGlo/s1600/bl12.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>One of the many distinguished British Army Gurkha regiments - 7th Duke of Edinburgh's Own Gurkha Rifles</b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Padam was rather outspoken on the “misrepresentation
of the enduring Gurkha brand and its erosion and potential abuse by
unscrupulous players in the burgeoning PSC market place.” According to Padam
‘fake Gurkhas,’ without requisite training, skills and experience, tarnish the
true Gurkha reputation and tradition and potentially put the lives of clients
at very real risk. Although no longer a
resident of Nepal, Padam visits his former homeland almost every year and is
proudly Nepali. He speaks fondly of his countrymen and the immense sacrifice
and contributions they have made to the stability, reconstruction and
development of Afghanistan – a far cry from the days when Gurkas, conscripted into
the British Army, faced active combat in distant and exotic destinations such as Kabul and Kandahar (1878–1880). It’s
estimated that at any one time there are several thousand Nepalese living
and working, throughout Afghanistan, serving in many diverse roles and occupations. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0WggxXyAEZp1dpPaM2onpZ57vrOH8g7gRygT8i9OQdKO1fWelxNoLQmTE1nnDUy2TinmmEzqE0SSqy0JjljXnCpd6Z0vCnbEsiNFzhZwpyGHgKpd7Yn1h4J9bTEg95M-t7u86Azhgmy2/s1600/bl1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0WggxXyAEZp1dpPaM2onpZ57vrOH8g7gRygT8i9OQdKO1fWelxNoLQmTE1nnDUy2TinmmEzqE0SSqy0JjljXnCpd6Z0vCnbEsiNFzhZwpyGHgKpd7Yn1h4J9bTEg95M-t7u86Azhgmy2/s1600/bl1.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Home-grown and brewed - the Gorkha brand is authentic, reputable and timeless and obviously wholly Nepali Himalayan </b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"></span><br /></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">“Having had the pleasure of working side by side with Gurkhas a few
times throughout my contracting career I can attest to their discipline and
professionalism. Out of all the groups of people I have worked with the ex-Brit
Gurkha is by far my favorite.”<span style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">“You will never meet an ex-Brit Gurkha PSC who has the Douchebag
Affliction shirt wearing, beard growing, shitty attitude that is unfortunately
so prevalent in this industry these days. These guys have zero ego despite
having more combat experience in their pinky than most people have in their
entire body – and I am talking about old school combat experience like “wearing
face-paint in the jungle” type of fighting.”<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Anon.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN">Gurkhas were always thought to be a superior warrior or
martial race because they were considered to be naturally warlike and
aggressive in battle; to possess attributes of courage, loyalty, self-reliance,
physical strength, resilience, organization; to be able to work hard for long
periods of time and; to fight with resolve and military strength. In
preparation for some modest trekking in the <span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">Annapurna Conservation Area and
upon the sound recommendation of a Nepali friend of a Nepali friend, I was able
to engage the superb guiding services of </span></span><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;">Krisna Bahadur Gurung (</span><span lang="EN-US"><a href="mailto:krisnababu22@hotmail.com" target="_blank"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;">krisnababu22@hotmail.com</span></a></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;">Mobile
no. +977 – 9846104807).<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pdp16q1gY1ILmNZpu19zEGVByPsIs1mF-Ho0gPSWULcRiT6NThC9fz-jAMR9R1epZyNPZvypo1dLP-yTuFeIUxRdAc1B4If_FwxsGjOWlyaO0V3jSZ9KWlZCbcy5W2L6LeUKN8w4GCoL/s1600/Krisna2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pdp16q1gY1ILmNZpu19zEGVByPsIs1mF-Ho0gPSWULcRiT6NThC9fz-jAMR9R1epZyNPZvypo1dLP-yTuFeIUxRdAc1B4If_FwxsGjOWlyaO0V3jSZ9KWlZCbcy5W2L6LeUKN8w4GCoL/s1600/Krisna2.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The blogger with Krisna Bahadur Gurung taking a breather, on a mountain high and trek, within the Annapurna Conservation Area</b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">After trekking together for several days I was
left with no doubt that Krisna, hailing from the village of Gorkha and
specifically from the Gurung hill tribe, was one such superior human being. With
the burning desire to follow in the true Gurkha tradition, he faltered at the
final selection hurdle due to his inability to meet the minimum set weight
requirement of 50kgs. Its with a calm resignation, maturity and re-directed
energy and commitment (to being the best possible professional trekking guide)
that this personal disappointment still and will always remain with him. This was brought sharply to the fore when he
accompanied me to one of the many jewels in Pokhara’s (Nepal’s second largest
city) crown – the Gurkha Memorial Musuem. Pride and pleasure were tinged with a
real sense of loss and regret - all on a crazy collision course which left us
both pretty bewildered.</span> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdbT4UKjXUNJCEXWXU49IbfnVdI22tr8U_M5JnuxgTxGPtr77nA7kdu0CSeqNmto3mA8EMXSYLQEpmH6qxW3XpIqP10ViQSsaYHLhTz5dwm3RtDlVI87h9YymrwwhRKQ1DvsujXucnugS/s1600/krisna+museum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdbT4UKjXUNJCEXWXU49IbfnVdI22tr8U_M5JnuxgTxGPtr77nA7kdu0CSeqNmto3mA8EMXSYLQEpmH6qxW3XpIqP10ViQSsaYHLhTz5dwm3RtDlVI87h9YymrwwhRKQ1DvsujXucnugS/s1600/krisna+museum.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The Gurkha Memorial Museum a must visit asset in Pokhara </b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span><br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We’d both come off a mountain high and I was
totally unprepared for the avalanche of emotions that rushed down upon me as we
worked our way through the museum. The more recent, recorded history (1800s
onwards) is captured in an honest and wholly unpretentious manner. With an unquestionable
and impressive roll of honor, I was welcomed into this inner sanctum – drawn by
countless ethereal greetings and knowing gazes of serious, virile young men
who’d had their date with destiny and glory. I was deeply moved by their call
to serve, campaign upon campaign – so little personal gain yet such sacrifice
on foreign shores afar. Many men
betrayed shades of mischief, adventure, indomitable belief and innocence but
all wore their immaculate uniforms, literally and figuratively as one -
gargantuan Gurkha! </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To Krisna’s credit, he has progressed through
the ranks from a teenaged porter hauling, nimble-footed and at great speed,
ungainly loads of up to 70kgs over insane terrain to the pinnacle of his
profession – a highly polished, knowledgeably and thoroughly professional
trekking guide. From my perspective it was uncanny to witness this genetic
programming in action – Krisna’s ease with and reading of clients of all
nationalities; his uncanny field and bush craft; his powers of observation and
anticipation to catch a client when he/she falters or falls; his natural
service orientation and so strikingly, his radiant Nepali sunshine and
personality as it emerges from behind the clouds of doubt and insecurity.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Since its formation in 1949 with 142 men, the Gurkha
contingent has grown to over 2,000 in size in 2003. This was a consequence of
Indian Independence from Britain in 1947, where 10 regiments of Gurkhas from
the British Indian Army were divided between the Indian Army (Gorkha) and the
British Army (Gurkha). Those transferred to the British Army were posted to
other remaining British Colonies in Malaya and Singapore. Young men are
recruited in Nepal at the British Gurkha camp in Pokhara. About 370 are
selected annually in December out of a pool of over 20,000 applications with
about 140 eventually joining the GC while the rest will go to the British Army.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Some of the basic physical admission criteria in the
recruitment camp include:<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN"><img alt="*" height="13" src="file:///C:/Users/Barry%20G-E/Documents/Writings/Writings/PicExportError" width="13" /> </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN">Aged 17½ to 21<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN"><img alt="*" height="13" src="file:///C:/Users/Barry%20G-E/Documents/Writings/Writings/PicExportError" width="13" /> </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN">Minimum height of 160 centimetres (5 feet)<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN"><img alt="*" height="13" src="file:///C:/Users/Barry%20G-E/Documents/Writings/Writings/PicExportError" width="13" /> </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN">Minimum weight of 50 kilograms (110 lbs)<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN"><img alt="*" height="13" src="file:///C:/Users/Barry%20G-E/Documents/Writings/Writings/PicExportError" width="13" /> </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN">Chest circumference of 79 centimetres (31 in) with minimum 5 centimetres (2
in) expansion<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN"><img alt="*" height="13" src="file:///C:/Users/Barry%20G-E/Documents/Writings/Writings/PicExportError" width="13" /> </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN">No applicants needing eyesight aids will be accepted.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN"><img alt="*" height="13" src="file:///C:/Users/Barry%20G-E/Documents/Writings/Writings/PicExportError" width="13" /> </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN">Generally good oral hygiene, with up to two fillings, false teeth or a
single gap.<span style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxkvHoABPlHnuLjxU7v2VLiy0o7wnnOUwsyeRK5BSGNbLUT_K6pt34jRZX4ZAlurvQjXxgLwY-QPc5qZX2LqODWMkhYhOwqQnkxVKU1vunfSgKlz8I0wXH8ICbAS6IjHNhKGygRfoXJGrf/s1600/bl10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxkvHoABPlHnuLjxU7v2VLiy0o7wnnOUwsyeRK5BSGNbLUT_K6pt34jRZX4ZAlurvQjXxgLwY-QPc5qZX2LqODWMkhYhOwqQnkxVKU1vunfSgKlz8I0wXH8ICbAS6IjHNhKGygRfoXJGrf/s1600/bl10.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The proud Gurkha legacy lives on</b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Applicants are expected to possess a minimum education
level of SLC 3rd Division equivalent to 'O' Levels. Upon registration, they
have to go through a battery of physical and mental assessments prior to
selection, including oral and written tests in the English language, a mathematics
test, a board interview and medical examination. The annual selection process,
which normally takes 17 days but is spread over four months due to conditions
in Nepal, will then assign recruits to either the GC or the British Army.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">During World War II (1939–45), following the Dunkirk
evacuation of the British Expeditionary Force in 1940, the Nepalese government
offered to increase recruitment of Gurkha battalions in British service to
thirty-five. This would eventually rise to forty-three battalions. This
expansion required ten training centres to be established for basic training
and regimental records across India. In addition five training battalions were
raised, while other units were raised as garrison battalions for keeping the
peace in India and defending rear areas. Large numbers of Gurkha men were also
recruited for non-Gurkha units, and other specialised functions such as
paratroops, signals, engineers, and military police.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">“Gurkha combat rifle load is 20 rounds. Their
combat philosophy is to close on the enemy with those 20 rounds, and use the
Kukri to eliminate the enemy.”<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"> “Those guys are some of the most switched on
dudes I have come across. I haven’t worked with them, but have been around them
and I was impressed.”<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A total of 250,280 Gurkhas served in 40 battalions, plus
eight Nepalese Army battalions, plus parachute, training, garrison, and porter
units during the war, in almost all theatres. In addition to keeping peace in
India, Gurkhas fought in the hot deserts of North Africa, the cold winters of
Europe or the muddy jungles of Burma. Apart from small detachments, the main
Gurkha regiments fought in Italy, Greece and Burma. They did so with
considerable distinction, earning 2,734 bravery awards including 10 Victoria
Crosses in the process and suffering around 32,000 casualties – wounded, dead
or missing – in all theatres of war. In effect the entire youth of Nepal was
placed at the disposal of the British war machine. With a population of only
four million people at the time, this meant that almost every Nepali of
military age was serving the British Crown. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the 1920’s and 1930’s the Gurkha regiments formed a
substantial part of the Garrison of India, and played an active and special
role securing its borders and holding its remotest regions. In 1935, during a
fatal earthquake in Quetta – Pakistan two Gurkas from the 8<sup>th</sup> Gurkha
Rifles received the George Cross for extreme bravery not in the face of the
enemy. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Gurkha Roll of Honour - 13 Victoria Cross recipients for bravery and gallantry </b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">During World War I (1914–18), more than 200,000 Gurkhas
served in the British Army in Europe, suffering approximately 20,000
casualties, and receiving almost 2,000 gallantry awards. The number of Gurkha
battalions was increased to thirty-three, and Gurkha units were placed at the
disposal of the British high command by the Nepalese government for service on
all fronts. Many Nepalese volunteers served in non-combatant roles, serving in
units such as the Army Bearer Corps and the labour battalions, but there were
also large numbers that served in combat in France, Turkey, Palestine, and
Mesopotamia. They served on the battlefields of France in Mesopotamia, Persia,
Suez Canal and Palestine against Turkish advance, Gallipoi and Salonika. During
the ultimately unsuccessful Gallipoli campaign in 1915, the Gurkhas were among
the first to arrive and the last to leave.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">“As I write these last words, my thoughts return to you who were my
comrades, the stubborn and indomitable peasants of Nepal. Once more I hear the
laughter with which you greeted every hardship. Once more I see you in your
bivouacs or about your fires, on forced march or in the trenches, now shivering
with wet and cold, now scorched by a pitiless and burning sun. Uncomplaining
you endure hunger and thirst and wounds; and at the last your unwavering lines
disappear into the smoke and wrath of battle. Bravest of the brave, most
generous of the generous, never had country more faithful friends than you.”<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;">Professor Sir Ralph Turner, MC - 3rd
Queen Alexandra’s Own Gurkha Rifles World War I<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Nepali Gurkhas heavily involved in Afghanistan whether in the formal military or international security contracting</b></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Gurkhas are served and saw action in
the Falklands War in 1982, in the Gulf conflict in 1990 and thereafter in
peacekeeping missions to Africa, the former Yugoslavia, Timor-Leste,
Afghanistan, Macedonia, Bosnia and Sierra Leone. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Enough said!</b></span></td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Postscript
<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN">On the 18<sup>th</sup> April 2014, 16 Nepali Mountain
Warriors or Sherpas (from the Sherpa tribe) lost their lives on the slopes of
Mt. Everest, to a deadly avalanche of ice and snow, whilst preparing for the 2014
climbing season. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white;">Some<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>Sherpa guides were angered by the government's meagre offer of compensation to victim's families and threatened a strong protest or strike. On 22nd April, the Sherpas announced they would not work on Everest for the remainder of 2014 as a mark of respect for the victims and their families. More than 250 people have died climbing Mount Everest. However, the 2014 avalanche was the deadliest in Everest's history, superseding a 1996 disaster when eight foreign climbers died. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN">In life and death,
we salute Nepal’s Unsung Heroes!<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuEHswjHYNmSkMA73Qw-lXxfxJh1D-JIYXuhexVVx58tG6mdMA8R3OYQCOmJnyC2H1pHfTFvYBEWBy8ENWyZuv0yrk88n-w5nJjtOD7ycjkvtMx8G3kYM1CI2itMnd9JUdk4mhouSVbJNP/s1600/_74706915_the16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuEHswjHYNmSkMA73Qw-lXxfxJh1D-JIYXuhexVVx58tG6mdMA8R3OYQCOmJnyC2H1pHfTFvYBEWBy8ENWyZuv0yrk88n-w5nJjtOD7ycjkvtMx8G3kYM1CI2itMnd9JUdk4mhouSVbJNP/s1600/_74706915_the16.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>In life and death we salute Nepal's Unsung Heroes!</b></span></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-33383709515599986882014-04-03T17:07:00.000-07:002021-01-25T21:51:23.601-08:00A Dozen or More Beds.........<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">But where do you go to my lovely</span></i></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">When you're alone in your bed</span></i></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"></span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">Tell me the thoughts that surround you</span></i><br />
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">I want to look into your head, yes I do.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span><em>Where do you go to my lovely</em> chorus – Peter Sarstedt</div>
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<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">I’ve slept in my fair share and both – repose and beds – have become a fascination, in recent years, particularly when you are constantly hopping in and out of them in the most unlikely places. An opiate, the elixir of life, an emotional and psychological tortured rack, lurking shadows – <em>Tell me the thoughts that surround you</em> – marish nights never ending and barely controllable beasts. Arrhythmic capital cities, intercontinental travel, unfamiliar and conflict-affected environments, aloneness, restless soul(s) and age deprive one of the purest, simplest and most blissful escapes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;">Bed, bedder, bedded, better dead – conjugal, death, flower, burning, hospital, rose - BEDS! So much commonality and finality! Why is it then so surprising and shocking to most that, ultimately, you are as you arrived and depart from this earthly existence - bedbound and more often on your very own or oblivious of those around you? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: rgb(127, 96, 0); color: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><em>Singles</em></span><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;"> – reminiscent of childhood and adolescence negotiated in a blur of staccato snapshots. Easy, carefree, natural and so full of anticipation and promise juxtaposed with the all-pervading reality of twilight years ahead - a cruel yet the inevitable prospect of emptiness – fending, fighting and warding off..... Turning full circle in a twirling and twisted tango.</span> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Singles..... Green Village accommodation - Kabul Afghanistan</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: #7f6000;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><em>Kings, Queens and Families</em> – </span><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">So real, so sustaining, imprinted life, form and shapes - was it real? Once the centre of the universe, purpose and peace; vivid, vibrant and boisterous 24/7/365 visitations; dreams delivered and dashed; sense-arounded and cocooned in envelopes of intimacy and familiarity; pleasurable presences - leisurely caresses and traded secrets all but blunted now by tell-tale time, circumstance and LIFE ……… <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>fading facsimiles ……….empty footfalls; uncomfortable and enduring silences; bodily superheated and suffused sheets slowly dissipating ………cleansed, sanitized, washed away, non-lingering, nothingness; stark, spreadeagled, chalked crime-scene silhouettes freeze-framed - older, colder, COLD! Achingly dismembered and disabled yet finding sensibilities, solace and self in numbing loneliness. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #7f6000; color: white;">As a response, befriending the most unlikely of companions with grace and humility especially H.R.H Insomnia - the obnoxious, unannounced, disagreeable and 'unliked' surrogate socialite that she is as H.R.H drops in occasionally, like a smothering cloak, for rude but intimate awakenings between 2-5 am. Leaving one savagely abused and crudely bruised and invariably facing a zombied day ahead as one of the many, walking dead. Her attempts and no good are thwarted by another old and regal friend, St. John's Wort, chased down with a few pages from a good read. Then ….. glorious repose rushing to meet you swiftly and sweetly - oblivion with incredible restorative and rejuvenating powers - a hint and lasting legacy of the past and perhaps, perhaps a furtive, fleeting hope for the future.</span> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The blogger ......flat-backed on one of a dozen or more beds</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-38725911885036342422014-01-03T02:41:00.000-08:002014-01-03T02:41:56.898-08:002013's Parting Shots!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This pictorial blog salutes friends and work colleagues –
professionals and development practitioners in their own right – who made 2013
all the more memorable and manageable. Until we meet again!<o:p></o:p></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Although 2013 was not exactly an <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">annus horribilis</i> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>it was
certainly one of peaks and troughs – stress, emotional and psychological hardship - as I'm sure many will attest to - often in the extreme. Its often under these
circumstances that the most unlikely, intense and enduring friendships are
forged. This is acknowledged and celebrated. No judgement or opinion will be
passed, for once, on people, systems, institutions or governments – 2013 was
what it was and we hope that 2014 will be far better. For the people of
Afghanistan, who all deserve so much more, the struggle goes on. We carry part of your burden and hope that
we can continue to be part of this journey. Equally, we thank you all for your very generous and gracious hospitality - a privilege and truly unforgettable experience!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Not quite the Full Monty but certainly mature male models with a great future! Coming to a store near you - very soon!</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Colleagues from the Afghan Ministry of Agriculture, Irrigation and Livestock</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>All smiles - relaxing times before going our separate ways</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Feet up ..... and enjoying the autumn sunshine. What a life at Le Baronne!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mmmmmmm - something is definitely brewing here!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Premature departures - the Kabul Cabal!</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Rebels without a cause ..... grounded yet again!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Obviously, Pedro has been stirring sheeeeet again!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KQyzz5ViCjQsxaawBxf8bk-9np3gC4FMtnvpcCZGvJa-2GeFxf7N8KHC6AfWToSAe57c2krSfaFV9LrCaIEAh8g7q6o4D289pear0_tMrpX3dvymjpks2kQe5CX1mDcLErbhT2Pg2g7s/s1600/IMG_0279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KQyzz5ViCjQsxaawBxf8bk-9np3gC4FMtnvpcCZGvJa-2GeFxf7N8KHC6AfWToSAe57c2krSfaFV9LrCaIEAh8g7q6o4D289pear0_tMrpX3dvymjpks2kQe5CX1mDcLErbhT2Pg2g7s/s1600/IMG_0279.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Early days - so full of promise and potential </strong></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7bnwBRbCFLBWVuervFIoJZ-0mjoJmkdqNyrO9NvXIdKV_sRhlPrlicvi1zumUF-9FouvxoKZ7LuPDwTuX4B6pTCnk_S8eEigLe0k8ip_lMVt4_enmcc6KgmT63_u6-B6Nnbf2MsKEHrD/s1600/IMG_1175+undp+resize.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7bnwBRbCFLBWVuervFIoJZ-0mjoJmkdqNyrO9NvXIdKV_sRhlPrlicvi1zumUF-9FouvxoKZ7LuPDwTuX4B6pTCnk_S8eEigLe0k8ip_lMVt4_enmcc6KgmT63_u6-B6Nnbf2MsKEHrD/s1600/IMG_1175+undp+resize.jpg" height="315" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>The boyz - big, bigger, biggest & Christophe</strong></span> </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdRmBNXqQoiAokgsxmvn0GnpKq6cbDvY7hbcdLFsj_84u8IfgltNyzh4J3uzpTgFTbwqCh6Ny9UZkGE8LoK-yEIZ0laILyuQn6NH7btw-OpQMXp5ZcaNDCA8Eo_81qe8Q4cKxQnZPlBjo/s1600/IMG_2945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdRmBNXqQoiAokgsxmvn0GnpKq6cbDvY7hbcdLFsj_84u8IfgltNyzh4J3uzpTgFTbwqCh6Ny9UZkGE8LoK-yEIZ0laILyuQn6NH7btw-OpQMXp5ZcaNDCA8Eo_81qe8Q4cKxQnZPlBjo/s1600/IMG_2945.JPG" height="245" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Spot the Aussie!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGZfyvP6kl8sHaY3FPouCOy66lNtnuNT0p_1Dam9ZSjnn1fc1m-Oc2jB9phtxjyaPJb0gQbu9jvkES6lSE5qjUFwz3q9kTsnUPs9fAgKfTZ7BC-6aTD5qwg82b8GksHTxYZCr3Ko87XfQE/s1600/IMG_5633.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGZfyvP6kl8sHaY3FPouCOy66lNtnuNT0p_1Dam9ZSjnn1fc1m-Oc2jB9phtxjyaPJb0gQbu9jvkES6lSE5qjUFwz3q9kTsnUPs9fAgKfTZ7BC-6aTD5qwg82b8GksHTxYZCr3Ko87XfQE/s1600/IMG_5633.JPG" height="286" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Party time at Kabul's GV</span></strong></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY9C0AhMe5RKSoeK92fiiBGxhXw3QVUmXzoJbKs4bX_JgMo91725sbX6w-w7bFK-CXeLd72qcecFsO22q4EolnBxDz58PwY7sMWxxATjqsAbhgezKH-F1YK_SMRsdbVGylXQ7tVGqPniAP/s1600/IWMP+Team+MAIL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY9C0AhMe5RKSoeK92fiiBGxhXw3QVUmXzoJbKs4bX_JgMo91725sbX6w-w7bFK-CXeLd72qcecFsO22q4EolnBxDz58PwY7sMWxxATjqsAbhgezKH-F1YK_SMRsdbVGylXQ7tVGqPniAP/s1600/IWMP+Team+MAIL.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>IWMP Kick off</strong></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiryFcFsOn6CEtHq5ezHmBNgZ05sHwrjaKfrmk5In2DtT9kq-NA9fsKTCPpiZuLhIsGYgMlCRYlMJzboHf2dKrMF4Idig7ZeDpCpE7tMWHAwd7lOL4C0TZIZecjRrzW3puGCupIfMyqRZuM/s1600/Kholm+Mazar+Field+Trip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiryFcFsOn6CEtHq5ezHmBNgZ05sHwrjaKfrmk5In2DtT9kq-NA9fsKTCPpiZuLhIsGYgMlCRYlMJzboHf2dKrMF4Idig7ZeDpCpE7tMWHAwd7lOL4C0TZIZecjRrzW3puGCupIfMyqRZuM/s1600/Kholm+Mazar+Field+Trip.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Out and about in Mazar-e-Sharif - in good safe hands....</strong></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3hW7JkPkfB_N1sUz8NgW3xXpyObdZV1sxTn0HOBb6JgesDiix5Khtcmn9H2M6KsRQKlOQxKobv0LjfQrs2cFLfq5za2RNPTXs2ISZSt1PV_sqxH4DXwz1NrKSKFQ-jIFBVH6ukH41Yqd/s1600/MAIL+1510+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3hW7JkPkfB_N1sUz8NgW3xXpyObdZV1sxTn0HOBb6JgesDiix5Khtcmn9H2M6KsRQKlOQxKobv0LjfQrs2cFLfq5za2RNPTXs2ISZSt1PV_sqxH4DXwz1NrKSKFQ-jIFBVH6ukH41Yqd/s1600/MAIL+1510+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>With VIPs at MAIL - Kabul</strong></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguZLEejHJPC_-DiCa8bofMJhr-ruhv7HRtxl4a1Wl1A1tsv7yqq6b6D8LVioeeF75GNz7dIUKK5CZZtO6AL6yAqld1SLgfuvL7l_mDt5b42hgTZN_e4jOL80yKRfHFrdBNkRQy7rE4_0fQ/s1600/P1010075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguZLEejHJPC_-DiCa8bofMJhr-ruhv7HRtxl4a1Wl1A1tsv7yqq6b6D8LVioeeF75GNz7dIUKK5CZZtO6AL6yAqld1SLgfuvL7l_mDt5b42hgTZN_e4jOL80yKRfHFrdBNkRQy7rE4_0fQ/s1600/P1010075.JPG" height="357" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Baz and Thomas under 'deep' cover......</strong></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8E1IrhyphenhyphenLQdiaFLrQjwb8qE-aJDoHfV-gHkTbdBP3o38W8fD6pSnKMRRFib3nD4SLBSPnqdT6mkbAxZnR5ikeO5MHJM-N8iVo9wIiOUtSWOPufwQTDM9kN_-WCm_PKq87QZvpa5FmE4SsQ/s1600/P1030268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8E1IrhyphenhyphenLQdiaFLrQjwb8qE-aJDoHfV-gHkTbdBP3o38W8fD6pSnKMRRFib3nD4SLBSPnqdT6mkbAxZnR5ikeO5MHJM-N8iVo9wIiOUtSWOPufwQTDM9kN_-WCm_PKq87QZvpa5FmE4SsQ/s1600/P1030268.JPG" height="315" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Great Indian hospitality and fun times with friends abroad</strong></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHa9YrmBBTRS2XXAhSyD7CNWuGIfh4b33YCVH6w3GRSgE5_SHSXoDjeUPihs-cD8kzv9x9URdsIUUpu7DKmuaDKPlWFRmwIoevGfORuRgVQ3iFuinn4Lb8fJrirOISUKWcn-fvbZaAcz0n/s1600/P1040443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHa9YrmBBTRS2XXAhSyD7CNWuGIfh4b33YCVH6w3GRSgE5_SHSXoDjeUPihs-cD8kzv9x9URdsIUUpu7DKmuaDKPlWFRmwIoevGfORuRgVQ3iFuinn4Lb8fJrirOISUKWcn-fvbZaAcz0n/s1600/P1040443.JPG" height="356" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Supermen!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdcZK0pBXba1dYiZB-3vo2foiQEyj7W5Z0oLyiOwbEx99U3ZdmuPUOglvpWFmmptb_wMoJn9CtNe0AEpiCZBOYMq_3kOnJgUzPJAcDBBNpkt7jjDP8V52L3HWRuJJHkGEOxG2Z-4klzQM8/s1600/P1040915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdcZK0pBXba1dYiZB-3vo2foiQEyj7W5Z0oLyiOwbEx99U3ZdmuPUOglvpWFmmptb_wMoJn9CtNe0AEpiCZBOYMq_3kOnJgUzPJAcDBBNpkt7jjDP8V52L3HWRuJJHkGEOxG2Z-4klzQM8/s1600/P1040915.JPG" height="203" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Serious integrated water resource management business</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3UeKZz_3xgaHrCTRnJRj-uWlDv-39AiJfaQ6W7C5gnDSn2MkhTVoeRVbs29tSAR3Z6kENtBLt2zbEiulhWhOd2q264cZA-nQTyitY3lNBaKiZReC18UsxuHLJUudrqHknMKU0Yu4NOD-/s1600/P1040979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3UeKZz_3xgaHrCTRnJRj-uWlDv-39AiJfaQ6W7C5gnDSn2MkhTVoeRVbs29tSAR3Z6kENtBLt2zbEiulhWhOd2q264cZA-nQTyitY3lNBaKiZReC18UsxuHLJUudrqHknMKU0Yu4NOD-/s1600/P1040979.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Le Baronne's friendly staff </strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjN5CXYH7bJjLbVPCeVxgKrpjkBo407eH05uIanTZwSPffd8k-23RSH-uHnjigSaWtdmEUBJoE8Ipnx1ht2Ma79IcF50eP7T9AK9HSnN41SyMFbFB3sKZ7kRKosnMfSMWKtDOHEqNIyoct/s1600/P1050003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjN5CXYH7bJjLbVPCeVxgKrpjkBo407eH05uIanTZwSPffd8k-23RSH-uHnjigSaWtdmEUBJoE8Ipnx1ht2Ma79IcF50eP7T9AK9HSnN41SyMFbFB3sKZ7kRKosnMfSMWKtDOHEqNIyoct/s1600/P1050003.JPG" height="255" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Guru David on the couch offering some sound hydrological advice</strong></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh21dxqWXg1oMRg3GtQG6Evuoc9ypgF98XFcNTcROEmWoBBkXcNukJbrnZ6vCoWdvMoA1LqJJs_vfyHDDRPc3YP5twDldv9OjaNK4ECUm4cP6nLQaMpvKfTv8QAY0c0dZDbp_K7rRlm7Ync/s1600/P1050145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh21dxqWXg1oMRg3GtQG6Evuoc9ypgF98XFcNTcROEmWoBBkXcNukJbrnZ6vCoWdvMoA1LqJJs_vfyHDDRPc3YP5twDldv9OjaNK4ECUm4cP6nLQaMpvKfTv8QAY0c0dZDbp_K7rRlm7Ync/s1600/P1050145.JPG" height="333" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Women in agriculture - special ones at that</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2x0PB1Im-q0TZA91yYkWCxsXM2cXeCvIFdkZomyi85yNCHoFgM1Q2MbwUoduSjGHi3XDvIpnrbgqUZgziF_KZJwNf3MeT3HvGpKdwpNrC4sHV1bz96g5WfQYTrNtCD5BOsa5byF8nhuNM/s1600/P1050312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2x0PB1Im-q0TZA91yYkWCxsXM2cXeCvIFdkZomyi85yNCHoFgM1Q2MbwUoduSjGHi3XDvIpnrbgqUZgziF_KZJwNf3MeT3HvGpKdwpNrC4sHV1bz96g5WfQYTrNtCD5BOsa5byF8nhuNM/s1600/P1050312.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mission Helmand: Accomplished!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Zlx0RLiCjN1PZ3S-qIN88PjT9A2RlKAF75oNf1yeU6f-ABa6UT7yBY-APSWnQUOtpGI2lYvShm8wQK0Wy52ZPjVWqMz7zX_IkvH3xTL43BNG3Y1KamUvKbBZx4DK8TSagPAC1zk1dwDr/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Zlx0RLiCjN1PZ3S-qIN88PjT9A2RlKAF75oNf1yeU6f-ABa6UT7yBY-APSWnQUOtpGI2lYvShm8wQK0Wy52ZPjVWqMz7zX_IkvH3xTL43BNG3Y1KamUvKbBZx4DK8TSagPAC1zk1dwDr/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Where the bloody well are we? We definitely need a Guy with GIS and mapping skills!!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYWBdAmGVFxBNG5d1tcNXZEMedUJMYkbx5ymQONDbMeikFfFE8PxffwyQwAjKlsDw8k2kN06DA2oURJ7TfWgqsG1nkKf2_YXWGYtUa-n_AFpW7rDWBZfBmfgikH6uY_1knzXGduwVgyppd/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYWBdAmGVFxBNG5d1tcNXZEMedUJMYkbx5ymQONDbMeikFfFE8PxffwyQwAjKlsDw8k2kN06DA2oURJ7TfWgqsG1nkKf2_YXWGYtUa-n_AFpW7rDWBZfBmfgikH6uY_1knzXGduwVgyppd/s1600/photo+3.JPG" height="320" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Another tall storey!</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-15162904308533585762014-01-02T05:45:00.000-08:002014-01-02T05:45:50.228-08:00Sugared and Spiced in Sri Lanka!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Smorgasbord of some of Sri Lanka's Finest Fresh Produce</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Pics and text by Barry Greville-Eyres</span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Far more than just a Sri Lankan icon ..... a quality product and brand recognized globally for decades</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Broken Orange Pekoe (BOP) a signature and top Sri Lankan tea</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Curry dhal, pol sambol (a delicious dry blend of chilli and coconut) and wholemeal rotti - fine, simple food whether enjoyed for breakfast, lunch or dinner</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Water buffalo curd and palm treacle enjoyed with fresh banana and papaya - a wholesome and refreshingly different breakfast</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">3 vegetable curry selections, mixed coconut sambol and string hoppers made from rice flour</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>A hopper - bowl shaped pancake on the heat .....</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Hoppers - egg pancakes</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Another favourite - kotthu rotti - chopped rotti, vegetables and chicken spiced/seasoned and stir fried before being served with a never ending variety of sambols</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Digging in at a local eatery in the highland town of Nuwara Eliya</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Durian fruit - or alternatively a wonderful traditional weapon</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Dragon fruit</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Two varieties of rambutan </strong></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Going bananas ..... countless varieties on offer including cooking bananas</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Rehydrate and refresh yourself with the 'king' of coconuts</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Star fruit</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7AddBH5l26qQ22s_GNyK3xnG55ef2SqEum7JAgfRfuNQjGKdeTQE9rfraRRUUezcXUoVGwe04KfRef7MYjSJg4B1ftZfckqoHnAzRWQaSQPXhY3lA3v4SdzajbVN1UCZ582uH4m6HX0wk/s1600/FF10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7AddBH5l26qQ22s_GNyK3xnG55ef2SqEum7JAgfRfuNQjGKdeTQE9rfraRRUUezcXUoVGwe04KfRef7MYjSJg4B1ftZfckqoHnAzRWQaSQPXhY3lA3v4SdzajbVN1UCZ582uH4m6HX0wk/s320/FF10.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Star water melon</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKnaal2l1imoGmfvoyr8X0CHDGF8PPWNQ__WH3AvAmPF2kU6DFN6C5jPA6UtKHrxX5DjN4vldLSB7DwGwsprWhcgdLAebfzm2313ADdtjL6lcEDaEyiTiFa6y1QKxKmdHbpg7S8YNNJaON/s1600/FF11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKnaal2l1imoGmfvoyr8X0CHDGF8PPWNQ__WH3AvAmPF2kU6DFN6C5jPA6UtKHrxX5DjN4vldLSB7DwGwsprWhcgdLAebfzm2313ADdtjL6lcEDaEyiTiFa6y1QKxKmdHbpg7S8YNNJaON/s320/FF11.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Foot long perky nana!</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdCC_r_algC2rg4L8x8SL4YItYYsaMIrDC368Kk5D9_AcnvyBjoPlkXxnEFq4fHwxArZtoIyAb3yviPZCWYAIwCVR-ZRgR764URFPIDMDXKROyefDZX0UYYiLV-aDUANlnSga8S2XdcrQM/s1600/FF12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdCC_r_algC2rg4L8x8SL4YItYYsaMIrDC368Kk5D9_AcnvyBjoPlkXxnEFq4fHwxArZtoIyAb3yviPZCWYAIwCVR-ZRgR764URFPIDMDXKROyefDZX0UYYiLV-aDUANlnSga8S2XdcrQM/s320/FF12.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Mangosteen - yet another exotic Asian fruit</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_CRWqhFWLWYqDzztPWNE03shdRnhM7zE38Gj8uRG8VSHjKO1fFW1-yThBDGCzRHnTJm3HFqWeUdG2iUjwt7RTsGjLUTXzP8FuVTwuoSJkn5sA_DbwyiFhgkTGS3M0-AEhcgKc-lsSEFza/s1600/fish1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_CRWqhFWLWYqDzztPWNE03shdRnhM7zE38Gj8uRG8VSHjKO1fFW1-yThBDGCzRHnTJm3HFqWeUdG2iUjwt7RTsGjLUTXzP8FuVTwuoSJkn5sA_DbwyiFhgkTGS3M0-AEhcgKc-lsSEFza/s320/fish1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Freshest fish</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLTPfrgpRlKs8ktbNUS1sASWao93i5SlxcTKxdG8X7ldjhr-0QmKmZzoNy_xXT6gh_wM0EsJouTB12Q0Z3XzJMGvUL35S35LzM0QJegXWepFePqeIvPgYlH1lmszAgNhdIRaUhWuf3nDxH/s1600/fish2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLTPfrgpRlKs8ktbNUS1sASWao93i5SlxcTKxdG8X7ldjhr-0QmKmZzoNy_xXT6gh_wM0EsJouTB12Q0Z3XzJMGvUL35S35LzM0QJegXWepFePqeIvPgYlH1lmszAgNhdIRaUhWuf3nDxH/s320/fish2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Prawns ready for the pan</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2A1kuTjyvgMpkLc60tX4m4-MKJcKfuMrQz3sLLZP6sfTAc9wWRc_lTPWaTaycBjhfh6UIX9zfWkDbbJQgJDd2L3MGruVEQb99KGrmCEc-vpJdppr4hzU_rTH0YcH5PNyRVoKv5e3Aan3v/s1600/fish3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2A1kuTjyvgMpkLc60tX4m4-MKJcKfuMrQz3sLLZP6sfTAc9wWRc_lTPWaTaycBjhfh6UIX9zfWkDbbJQgJDd2L3MGruVEQb99KGrmCEc-vpJdppr4hzU_rTH0YcH5PNyRVoKv5e3Aan3v/s320/fish3.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Game fish</strong></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiagVagAlbz6CHlkDAkWKDO0T5FmyZ-ZPs7MZ2MPwrAQlZGrWxoBQxZD84V7XeiDh-w3S_2Xm3i9__aOo3VB0CeTlPc44Ls5JKsr2b2EMIm4JlKxkEEG2TwF7KLpBXG9cw9za_8z4EMCHq/s1600/fish4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiagVagAlbz6CHlkDAkWKDO0T5FmyZ-ZPs7MZ2MPwrAQlZGrWxoBQxZD84V7XeiDh-w3S_2Xm3i9__aOo3VB0CeTlPc44Ls5JKsr2b2EMIm4JlKxkEEG2TwF7KLpBXG9cw9za_8z4EMCHq/s320/fish4.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Assorted reef fish</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_SCxbivUXfWRbHr9f-db3IAg-e4fPUs1bsoP9FLhjEjRnYRGIGpZfdv7uTIRoSDhVzPaNogr_VPtXV72-tESSy-T-HrcUO0u577omJI9mLlJfSoMIx1Mxz2F_RRHrIDtLfYuKkaBCumhL/s1600/fish6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_SCxbivUXfWRbHr9f-db3IAg-e4fPUs1bsoP9FLhjEjRnYRGIGpZfdv7uTIRoSDhVzPaNogr_VPtXV72-tESSy-T-HrcUO0u577omJI9mLlJfSoMIx1Mxz2F_RRHrIDtLfYuKkaBCumhL/s320/fish6.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>More assorted reef fish</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgOzuezUrCKMMxV4lpAC67LKZYxF-Zjez0FHWyW8AgFC49I7_PlxjG4rpLMq-PDvyu2QdwCpjuA1bvVHLeQpYx6fnwzhYayrkofbK3u179300fqzr4s-ni7-2edDUZDAR_0XRl8IO2Hk3/s1600/fish5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgOzuezUrCKMMxV4lpAC67LKZYxF-Zjez0FHWyW8AgFC49I7_PlxjG4rpLMq-PDvyu2QdwCpjuA1bvVHLeQpYx6fnwzhYayrkofbK3u179300fqzr4s-ni7-2edDUZDAR_0XRl8IO2Hk3/s320/fish5.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Negombo's fish market - very educational!</strong></span></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_SCxbivUXfWRbHr9f-db3IAg-e4fPUs1bsoP9FLhjEjRnYRGIGpZfdv7uTIRoSDhVzPaNogr_VPtXV72-tESSy-T-HrcUO0u577omJI9mLlJfSoMIx1Mxz2F_RRHrIDtLfYuKkaBCumhL/s1600/fish6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSxblIaL9tC_xKmoyFNcqcmi5MSOK9Rhor7Mnbq4KAFzgCCPMoZ5TLaC8HtqxSgfyzZot9MIxF4yjY5Bh_OhWPhwP02ueAJCt3Y-O3qjWXxSHKI3teWCxpaw13xQK0842ux3x2aTAOVS1G/s1600/fish9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSxblIaL9tC_xKmoyFNcqcmi5MSOK9Rhor7Mnbq4KAFzgCCPMoZ5TLaC8HtqxSgfyzZot9MIxF4yjY5Bh_OhWPhwP02ueAJCt3Y-O3qjWXxSHKI3teWCxpaw13xQK0842ux3x2aTAOVS1G/s320/fish9.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>The gals sampling the local brew at a Negombo roadside tavern and waiting for a light snack</strong></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4MqlOLnKvMPSaYFruNffs6sKKcG9KGkNhtQ-1PtKz9Qgc8rcjPsftie4EI9Qa0xV9bIX0ioeK22ntUU-kaC3-6CyRSQrjwIYuot_uX2RX-Z7zvfF56ZlPoFmLOJcDZ7MHcyH-oQhyLP3/s1600/fish10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimtHrqmaLOZCj1S122V85Ok75yvCbJrs108JmQSSG-Smo6_tdWmk_cRSxwve4A2xs_82C3LHtU7L_d0guADnwzyWoq6fpzIu36wTvu-pf5SggQtSbfs4Gjx68FLwhXkM-sGN_8gGPHJdWz/s1600/fish12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimtHrqmaLOZCj1S122V85Ok75yvCbJrs108JmQSSG-Smo6_tdWmk_cRSxwve4A2xs_82C3LHtU7L_d0guADnwzyWoq6fpzIu36wTvu-pf5SggQtSbfs4Gjx68FLwhXkM-sGN_8gGPHJdWz/s320/fish12.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>On the menu - scrumptious devilled prawns followed by.......</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sj7GDnLK9KP97aH5_1_XBmSL1McwCeBOFXPPxR4klpto38T46oupwNpuDy-mHlyFh3vdcLfQOYKdZNo-RV-gKToZxXqBtONL3kQW13xLfC74JC_qTrrhHgBP0fxF4oEDo_XC_gkRApH1/s1600/fish13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sj7GDnLK9KP97aH5_1_XBmSL1McwCeBOFXPPxR4klpto38T46oupwNpuDy-mHlyFh3vdcLfQOYKdZNo-RV-gKToZxXqBtONL3kQW13xLfC74JC_qTrrhHgBP0fxF4oEDo_XC_gkRApH1/s320/fish13.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Pan fried JT or King Fish</strong></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4MqlOLnKvMPSaYFruNffs6sKKcG9KGkNhtQ-1PtKz9Qgc8rcjPsftie4EI9Qa0xV9bIX0ioeK22ntUU-kaC3-6CyRSQrjwIYuot_uX2RX-Z7zvfF56ZlPoFmLOJcDZ7MHcyH-oQhyLP3/s1600/fish10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4MqlOLnKvMPSaYFruNffs6sKKcG9KGkNhtQ-1PtKz9Qgc8rcjPsftie4EI9Qa0xV9bIX0ioeK22ntUU-kaC3-6CyRSQrjwIYuot_uX2RX-Z7zvfF56ZlPoFmLOJcDZ7MHcyH-oQhyLP3/s320/fish10.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>No disguising the delight here....</strong></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi0bBBHktn-dKZ8oZT_2BhWTAbT-SsP3UKNUWHYq3byWM6RSWv_ZhemLMh910YpggPJn3Y5XGHuDkWf6fSIrTH7d0hMHy4gsncdZbVRxxs_3pOgi3nmH0buQ94HCDFtq7S171KFfP-USrR/s1600/fishy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi0bBBHktn-dKZ8oZT_2BhWTAbT-SsP3UKNUWHYq3byWM6RSWv_ZhemLMh910YpggPJn3Y5XGHuDkWf6fSIrTH7d0hMHy4gsncdZbVRxxs_3pOgi3nmH0buQ94HCDFtq7S171KFfP-USrR/s320/fishy.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Tuna steak anyone?</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidm0H9bYYLiiKjQy0_NHuzoLtSMSnuTyjfLZKc71kypHgFUn2W2fqGDeJuxQiPhyphenhyphen36SBnnsyT-pcU3ewjC6KhT9vFGs_A15tfsHOclM4FoKbCO0gC0cdUeo3F-unqbuhV21A6O4BoqR7Fl/s1600/jack2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidm0H9bYYLiiKjQy0_NHuzoLtSMSnuTyjfLZKc71kypHgFUn2W2fqGDeJuxQiPhyphenhyphen36SBnnsyT-pcU3ewjC6KhT9vFGs_A15tfsHOclM4FoKbCO0gC0cdUeo3F-unqbuhV21A6O4BoqR7Fl/s320/jack2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A mobile bakery doing the rounds</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDZZHZyujizQiW5b4wrmehPnJm3v1ZkTOpHI7hwmAirl4BsIe04Y6bR25aId3nSsnzRkepMw1nsE6KPFIhjEir0XbERcuG2IXf-pq7OmiDrALmGU3Rmlk3peiYac2bEGhJJaoIF9-LWzW2/s1600/kottu+rotti.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhihq-_rq2nUejgaElLIpQmTkw34SOVuBCtSU9ExXicn6-7JW94yC8YQYbRAFdfZY02BRZL4AIyZg4NHtHUcv2D1hiMaHj4sEh6kmm6AMV6uNVpBGqcazPt5e8q6ENO1ib74Z5dUQgEr6a/s1600/mark2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhihq-_rq2nUejgaElLIpQmTkw34SOVuBCtSU9ExXicn6-7JW94yC8YQYbRAFdfZY02BRZL4AIyZg4NHtHUcv2D1hiMaHj4sEh6kmm6AMV6uNVpBGqcazPt5e8q6ENO1ib74Z5dUQgEr6a/s320/mark2.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Pulses play an important part in Sri Lankan cuisine</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvVdYfQYbeIUBh2G-s0SfdPse66uABjgNe06VTJo-oWgajFbpWDnSAlm7x3kWgbcD4tQT1Rkz8DkXesUuBaGFG250dRbM3LsPCbELifSRNMSW67bKMSV7xL4M11XTbk4XcZqc8BDsHz4AI/s1600/mark3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvVdYfQYbeIUBh2G-s0SfdPse66uABjgNe06VTJo-oWgajFbpWDnSAlm7x3kWgbcD4tQT1Rkz8DkXesUuBaGFG250dRbM3LsPCbELifSRNMSW67bKMSV7xL4M11XTbk4XcZqc8BDsHz4AI/s320/mark3.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Sugar, spice and all things nice?</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfMqfxwQw1AQcCWhDS7i9s8oI5pDTEnG9t-TZGg6sKmpEkKHq0eFua3FDK1hyphenhyphen0SinKvtxvQ-mfbwhiJBAOxxvHw0hI2ArqVKrVc_rJWgA46Ww6n6CXhKa5NmJkeF48ODk8SFIotvbN3pp6/s1600/veg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfMqfxwQw1AQcCWhDS7i9s8oI5pDTEnG9t-TZGg6sKmpEkKHq0eFua3FDK1hyphenhyphen0SinKvtxvQ-mfbwhiJBAOxxvHw0hI2ArqVKrVc_rJWgA46Ww6n6CXhKa5NmJkeF48ODk8SFIotvbN3pp6/s320/veg.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Freshest vegetables - the variety is incredible!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUkPW8N-RWliaVZ-X0Ip1SQeLbJu6c8AIxnzrs6SXP42gMnXufpYw27-dDHc13i3Z2KnUL5Ih2z-lFlyZwYQqHQGkkqaYEkkNJQsQB1-L4uFMq3vovvrZcsdxW0bAGwhwDIOWgXyiu33on/s1600/mark5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUkPW8N-RWliaVZ-X0Ip1SQeLbJu6c8AIxnzrs6SXP42gMnXufpYw27-dDHc13i3Z2KnUL5Ih2z-lFlyZwYQqHQGkkqaYEkkNJQsQB1-L4uFMq3vovvrZcsdxW0bAGwhwDIOWgXyiu33on/s320/mark5.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Yet more veggies ....</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>A nation of smiling faces .....</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Royalty at the Galle Oriental Bakery</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Short eats - a legacy of Dutch colonial rule - interesting sweet and savoury pastries</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Ye Olde Bakery!</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>A cinnamon sapling yet still capable of producing this exquisite spice</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Once the thin outer green bark is removed the inner cambium is bruised and softened my rolling it with a round metal object before being stripped away completely - once dried this becomes the cinnamon quill or stick</strong></span> <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong>Green and dried cinnamon quills</strong></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Dried quills are pounded and reduced to fine cinnamon powder</span></strong></td></tr>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073417546057096857.post-56152034721131431822014-01-01T22:20:00.000-08:002014-01-01T22:31:58.222-08:00Sri Lankan Icons<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>Pics and words by Barry Greville-Eyres </strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">In antiquity, with a documented history that spans over 3000 years, Sri
Lanka was known to travellers by a variety of exotic and imaginative names.
Known in India as Lanka or Sinhala, ancient Greek geographers called it <i>Taprobane
</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and Arabs referred to it as <i>Serendib</i>
(the origin of the word serendipity) </span><i><span lang="PT" style="mso-ansi-language: PT;">Ceilão</span></i><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">, the name
given to Sri Lanka by the Portuguese when they arrived in 1505, was
transliterated into English as <i>Ceylon</i>. As a British crown colony, the
island was known as Ceylon; it achieved independence in 1948.</span></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMifDaGVn1wWQUlSdx-ONpzBH1_ko1PKWHwAfCgXmQ4NL4CXPPwLORK8ZxgkAxMVfkp4lSiDEFdZWEZrpNE3TiQcFLcbKEoEI-ammXW853dsuu_kR_6U_gNgTGSwt3AqXN6yRnpPKST7FY/s1600/Flag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMifDaGVn1wWQUlSdx-ONpzBH1_ko1PKWHwAfCgXmQ4NL4CXPPwLORK8ZxgkAxMVfkp4lSiDEFdZWEZrpNE3TiQcFLcbKEoEI-ammXW853dsuu_kR_6U_gNgTGSwt3AqXN6yRnpPKST7FY/s320/Flag.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;">The Mighty Lankan Lion - </span></b><b><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Sri Lanka is known as the <i>Pearl of the Indian Ocean</i> because of its
natural beauty. Its also been called <i>the</i> <i>teardrop of India</i>
because of its shape and geographical location, and <i>the nation of smiling
people.</i></span></b><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN;"> </span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Lion Flag consists of a gold lion, holding a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>kastane sword in its right forepaw, in front
of a dark red background with four golden bo leaves, one in each corner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Bo-Tree<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>- <i>Ficus religiosa</i> or sacred fig is a species of fig native to the
country and region and adds a specific religious significance to the national
flag from the Sanskrit <i>Bodhi</i>:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>wisdom, enlightened. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Buddhist
legend tells of Gautama Buddha attaining enlightment (<i>bodhi</i>) while
meditating underneath the Bo – Bodhi tree. Sadhus (Hindu ascetics) still
meditate beneath sacred fig trees, and Hindus do pradakshina (circumambulation,
or meditative pacing) around the sacred fig tree as a mark of worship. Usually
seven pradakshinas are done around the tree in the morning time chanting
"Vriksha Rajaya Namah", meaning "salutation to the king of
trees."</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Around the
background is a yellow border, and to its left are 2 vertical stripes of equal
size in green and saffron, with the saffron stripe closest to the lion. The
lion represents the Sinhalese ethnicity and the bravery of the Sri Lankan
nation while the four Bo leaves represent Metta, Karuna, Mudita and Upekkha.
The orange stripe represents the Sri Lankan Tamils, the green stripe represents
Sri Lankan Moors, and the maroon background represents the majority of
Sinhalese, like the lion, this is the colour used in early flags of Sri Lanka by
Kings.</span></span><i><sup><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"> </span></sup></i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-AU;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-qhnKcwHdd12KJpA4V9KMRtlLrM0XDPcW_693vi5KFGynT65k_NDAtP5-7rV-EsJ73lBHRsPQ26QA_FHslhVfV3I-EJx-ux-vx2HhBjkzqmhWlrlvEokIXeX7T2lZZJZSIHTgf0MXhHdE/s1600/Canals+Negombo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-qhnKcwHdd12KJpA4V9KMRtlLrM0XDPcW_693vi5KFGynT65k_NDAtP5-7rV-EsJ73lBHRsPQ26QA_FHslhVfV3I-EJx-ux-vx2HhBjkzqmhWlrlvEokIXeX7T2lZZJZSIHTgf0MXhHdE/s320/Canals+Negombo2.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Negombo's enduring canal system adds mystique and character to this sleepy seaside town north of Colombo</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Negombo (with an estimated population of 128,000) is an hour long commute,
traffic dependent, north of bustling Colombo and in close proximity to the Bandaranaika
International Airport. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It provides an
ideal staging point to launch off into the hinterland or to tackle other
coastal routes. The Dutch showed their preoccupation with and passion for manmade
waterways in Negombo like nowhere else in Sri Lanka. They captured the town
from the Portuguese in 1640, lost it, and then recaptured it in 1644. Canals
extend from Negombo all the way south to the capital city and north to
Puttalam, an astonishing distance of 120km. The British then took their turn at
colonizing Sri Lanka – Ceylon, ousting the Dutch without much of a fight in
1796. The town was one of the most important sources of cinnamon during the
Dutch era and much of this yesteryear European influence is still evident to
this day. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjprj3qCAoj6FZZQu0dbJl2K-Pvx0pPFZI__1xke0ACU67A_gpmdRsdGECM4mtTMHVTRm5_mveumyGeAki6m4rfhwdZu2RD02DbswvScuTDP3kI7O7UWuUUmINpgE72W1ReNBrl1DVN0ucz/s1600/Canals+Negombo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjprj3qCAoj6FZZQu0dbJl2K-Pvx0pPFZI__1xke0ACU67A_gpmdRsdGECM4mtTMHVTRm5_mveumyGeAki6m4rfhwdZu2RD02DbswvScuTDP3kI7O7UWuUUmINpgE72W1ReNBrl1DVN0ucz/s320/Canals+Negombo.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sauntering along on foot or boating on the Negombo canal system is highly recommended as are visits to the local spice, fresh produce and fish markets.</span></strong> </span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Colombo city, with an estimated
population of 753,000, is located within the most populous of the nine Sri
Lankan provinces. The Western Province (Colombo) is home to 6 million Sri
Lankans followed by Central (Kandy) 2,6 million; <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Southern (Galle) 2,5 million and Eastern
Provinces (Trincomalee) 1,6 million out of a total estimated population of 20,3
million. Colombo deserves a short interlude but with an island nation brimming with
bio and cultural diversity, scenic beauty and culinary delights its best to
take to the roads for the hinterland or Sri Lankan sun, sea and sand. Although
extensive work has gone into upgrading primary highways and expressways,
traffic congestion is common so adjust your travel plans accordingly and go
with the flow.</span> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Colombo's Independence Memorial Hall erected by the Government of Ceylon to commemorate the achievement of independence on 4th February 1948</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One of Colombo's many striking landmarks including a state-of-the-art international convention centre drawing high-powered events and their delegates from around the globe.</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PweG0prrV8I_ZaxA2Q2GTbwrvJ2QtYesKTrK5poPUv2W0zz4rxm6iwDfd3_wAqGAS7z87DhYa-2GzoWEhvIUOt8sAlL0naq8wG9N6XrCCqXdEdvtrYvxRqijBEd4xvyP6PvAheojg9nt/s1600/Colombo4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PweG0prrV8I_ZaxA2Q2GTbwrvJ2QtYesKTrK5poPUv2W0zz4rxm6iwDfd3_wAqGAS7z87DhYa-2GzoWEhvIUOt8sAlL0naq8wG9N6XrCCqXdEdvtrYvxRqijBEd4xvyP6PvAheojg9nt/s320/Colombo4.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The giant Buddha statue opposite the Colombo International Convention Centre welcomes international delegates to a truly unforgettable experience </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYzyDe0Wh9KkUXqokMk0jfSPJV4j1f8Vw0TATajrGxBfg7AVS0nwZxlFazNyqIvRyNxlb9co-r6RjsOi3k2WlZFYAx4gI4fjtRtfbPi-kPUYTIvlZ_os0Vy9KEKnFsRy6vWScc3BZjxqv/s1600/P1050174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYzyDe0Wh9KkUXqokMk0jfSPJV4j1f8Vw0TATajrGxBfg7AVS0nwZxlFazNyqIvRyNxlb9co-r6RjsOi3k2WlZFYAx4gI4fjtRtfbPi-kPUYTIvlZ_os0Vy9KEKnFsRy6vWScc3BZjxqv/s1600/P1050174.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Asian Elephant with her handler, against the backdrop of well watered tropical forest, is iconic and quintessentially Sri Lanka</span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kandy is a moody (described by
Lonely Planet as ‘some days having skies that seem to be perpetually bruised’)
but thoroughly charming, central highland city (estimated population of 125,000)
located at an elevation of 500m some 115km northeast of Colombo. It’s an
industrious, must visit city with a cacophony of sounds; kaleidoscopes of
colour and culture; kinetic, self-discovered energy generated by the West
meeting Asia all thrust atop verdant hillsides and tops. All of this is fortunately
tempered but a tranquil, pervading serenity and spirituality. Undoubtedly, the
lake is Kandy’s centerpiece and is best traversed, particularly on foot,
outside of peak traffic periods where the noise, congestion and pollution
issues are largely negated. The manmade lake was created by Sri Wickrama
Rajasinha, recognized as the last ruler of the kingdom of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Kandy,
in 1807. The modernizing city is seen as a bastion of nationalism in that it
served as the capital of the Sinhalese kingdom, which eventually fell to the
conquering British in 1815 after defying the overtures, for three centuries, of other colonizing powers in the
Portuguese and Dutch. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84wVyvtIdlvL0ddIxyV28J0OlFErw1LK1IIPakkk3TDJw0JJk_XrFzALQ7dJ7F9v5-kvbkkjRlto4XP6tVXeTPgKntuHBwkmym-dtXsHfve1wF0RgEfmw5NXlAuwDgquL4W0cVveNu1oh/s1600/kandy1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84wVyvtIdlvL0ddIxyV28J0OlFErw1LK1IIPakkk3TDJw0JJk_XrFzALQ7dJ7F9v5-kvbkkjRlto4XP6tVXeTPgKntuHBwkmym-dtXsHfve1wF0RgEfmw5NXlAuwDgquL4W0cVveNu1oh/s320/kandy1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Unmistakable Kandy with its centrepiece lake </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAsxuIqfU1CUK-KU0k9o7gRKJB5eyTig4itihraXYm2gIDOb2QH1pZ9xsgQWFxYwh92IaKb52uXvhvTAcWU_xHSQyU7_9RYUakStcJDd0RN1dkffogFqSJxUuG7EwkoWaurnlkocn7ADjJ/s1600/Kandy2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAsxuIqfU1CUK-KU0k9o7gRKJB5eyTig4itihraXYm2gIDOb2QH1pZ9xsgQWFxYwh92IaKb52uXvhvTAcWU_xHSQyU7_9RYUakStcJDd0RN1dkffogFqSJxUuG7EwkoWaurnlkocn7ADjJ/s320/Kandy2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kandy street scene and prime hillside real estate overlooking the lake</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2isnfeK4nT_KsVVD3pX7EnoTxNsdQD-48aMyenTcv_c4K7QFvGPwYy4rTpU7Y50s3KdRBEvAnTcqjnP5M4IiWd6mEl8_M4ZHNiVL2NlkDf9_F1-TbUeusTjR2PG4oLCjvhlRu1tPTTky/s1600/Kandy3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2isnfeK4nT_KsVVD3pX7EnoTxNsdQD-48aMyenTcv_c4K7QFvGPwYy4rTpU7Y50s3KdRBEvAnTcqjnP5M4IiWd6mEl8_M4ZHNiVL2NlkDf9_F1-TbUeusTjR2PG4oLCjvhlRu1tPTTky/s320/Kandy3.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Buddha statue sheltered and protected by the spreading hood of a cobra - an interesting variation found on the hillside at Kandy</span></strong><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some of Kandy’s other outstanding
features include the Tea Museum and tea plantations on the outskirts of the
city; historical and modern architecture in the central business district and adorning
adjacent hillsides; excellent restaurants and bake houses and the slow, hypnotic
yet spectacularly scenic half day train trip from the city to Nuwara Eliya (with
a turnaround point at the Nanu Oya station). This trip traverses the rolling highland
areas primarily under tea plantation cultivation producing Ceylon’s finest. The
train route is a marvel of engineering with cuttings, tunnels, switchbacks, and
bridges all carved and constructed, often by hand, in the mountainous terrain. An
interesting variation is to take the one way train trip to Nuwara Eliya followed
by a return road trip to Kandy. This option provides you with the flexibility
to spend time exploring touristy Nuwara Eliya and stop at the numerous roadside
tea estates guaranteed to provide a thorough tea education complete with plenty
of tasting opportunities. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Kgbfmz-IEkX927UUgobbEaHTsNuqECKURkSAx4aLPFmcJLFfI7yvuIJxhcSM0zFVe1zsPJ_UvXyqQBTPKNZzIeYVG-L-9vEck6KLk7Zw-Cst6jPibegd_lzZBeiruwxNDTYZsueCsAIb/s1600/train.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Kgbfmz-IEkX927UUgobbEaHTsNuqECKURkSAx4aLPFmcJLFfI7yvuIJxhcSM0zFVe1zsPJ_UvXyqQBTPKNZzIeYVG-L-9vEck6KLk7Zw-Cst6jPibegd_lzZBeiruwxNDTYZsueCsAIb/s1600/train.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>All aboard! - the very popular scenic and sedate train trip, in a purpose built observation carriage, from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya provides a welcome change of pace and further insights into tea production as the mainstay of Sri Lanka's economy.</strong></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxtx5zQzBMmasBMUORUS4BIg0qTyPFjrqm4d5WQ-ojM7bZex6FRnEdbk_3ceTdZnntcNjsmTmqdgFvcUv2mMrruG3kqqEnlAzw7GAqVfKEJlMyRImZ1oU0NqAHW-5JTsxoK26lA8NKBcFC/s1600/tea.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxtx5zQzBMmasBMUORUS4BIg0qTyPFjrqm4d5WQ-ojM7bZex6FRnEdbk_3ceTdZnntcNjsmTmqdgFvcUv2mMrruG3kqqEnlAzw7GAqVfKEJlMyRImZ1oU0NqAHW-5JTsxoK26lA8NKBcFC/s1600/tea.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tea plantations, some over a hundred years old, under eucalyptus/gum and silky oak trees with these trees providing presumably a measure of shelter particularly from the natural elements (wind, rain and sun).</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-guw47Yf1j66PbVNeI506G8T-JHBbPUaYrlxe3wjMBpSG_a4DruyXLWyiQr9mfav96DhE4GQszTqiMtoD-1tUQLFE6BXbu06yM2KDzhl4Tur7K6SYrbULAFggeKLJ1FK3gRjrk2IiK3pz/s1600/Kandy5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-guw47Yf1j66PbVNeI506G8T-JHBbPUaYrlxe3wjMBpSG_a4DruyXLWyiQr9mfav96DhE4GQszTqiMtoD-1tUQLFE6BXbu06yM2KDzhl4Tur7K6SYrbULAFggeKLJ1FK3gRjrk2IiK3pz/s320/Kandy5.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dandy Kandy .......yet another street scene illustrating the old and new in a rapidly expanding city</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcZeIpoHubg2p9OaKOABGZE4HKdYzUy57Z3f7ZPK2DDTvJzHZYR48APNaSMCpGlosJR44TqQcZyeQEA057pKl2OhN99SwCNRVrEx1gfw9qmKoZEC5Mu14STqNoQUC2BCFFmw5gnU7lkuO/s1600/P1050624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcZeIpoHubg2p9OaKOABGZE4HKdYzUy57Z3f7ZPK2DDTvJzHZYR48APNaSMCpGlosJR44TqQcZyeQEA057pKl2OhN99SwCNRVrEx1gfw9qmKoZEC5Mu14STqNoQUC2BCFFmw5gnU7lkuO/s1600/P1050624.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>Sri Lanka boasts a range of comfortable and affordable accommodation options catering for the needs of most - on our travels we received exceptional service and hospitality at Kandy's Nature Walk Resort - </strong></span><a href="http://www.naturewalkhr.net/"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>www.naturewalkhr.net</strong></span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>; Thambapanni Leisure (Unawatuna Beach - Galle) - </strong></span><a href="http://www.thambapannileisure.com/"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>www.thambapannileisure.com</strong></span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <strong>and Tangalle's Ibis Guest House - </strong></span><a href="http://www.guesthouse-ibis.de/"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>www.guesthouse-ibis.de</strong></span></a><span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>.</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig-lpYhlKmoh_fMIm0T12roviQgdktO7fYLVKVqDp95qhjyIcCfnOTgsFn1ICWaj774WUA5h-fJNZlyQVUBCNrVpsSmM_trB6khvq7PBuA7dn1qvCfp6lqOb5lJUMLO6ZhLmFWL5cQmB0m/s1600/Ibis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig-lpYhlKmoh_fMIm0T12roviQgdktO7fYLVKVqDp95qhjyIcCfnOTgsFn1ICWaj774WUA5h-fJNZlyQVUBCNrVpsSmM_trB6khvq7PBuA7dn1qvCfp6lqOb5lJUMLO6ZhLmFWL5cQmB0m/s320/Ibis.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Ibis Guesthouse on the outskirts of Tangalla provides on-beach accommodation along a sweeping stretch of sea and sand. </span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0s7ct7iAiWYbbvQRK-UM-g7r6l8M8_eKXcPmzPjtG-ev77S2RFXbRtULJtpoho-ii0JKEJWKXdCXky7yNl8z8rheAUX_mnut_cXUxv7Av_IuD-KAz6TZ4eSNDOKDD0nGb5wybG8DK0Dl-/s1600/Colombo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0s7ct7iAiWYbbvQRK-UM-g7r6l8M8_eKXcPmzPjtG-ev77S2RFXbRtULJtpoho-ii0JKEJWKXdCXky7yNl8z8rheAUX_mnut_cXUxv7Av_IuD-KAz6TZ4eSNDOKDD0nGb5wybG8DK0Dl-/s320/Colombo2.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another representation of Golden Lion Passant</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFC85kWArofaF-GQtyZAFFIs2O3x_Wrlm1pkFriV7yx88hTLgZd56IZLkYCKDZAgv2ISGnVqQ6aZBuabJuLT4OySGX_MgADHdbDgoCOwOfZm6ksTduUig2mSCXdBrYgZax5Rkw1cX_Ts8b/s1600/Colombo3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFC85kWArofaF-GQtyZAFFIs2O3x_Wrlm1pkFriV7yx88hTLgZd56IZLkYCKDZAgv2ISGnVqQ6aZBuabJuLT4OySGX_MgADHdbDgoCOwOfZm6ksTduUig2mSCXdBrYgZax5Rkw1cX_Ts8b/s320/Colombo3.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Graphic representation of Star Lotus flower</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqLCVGvwiPrBQ1S79mMuraBOX9FuZDp9bks8aM6UGfOnlVawJ1wSjg_IcCUS02VZxgrkOX-D7KiKOp6NaqUoyXc1sF76m-qvnoI1OYx8ySWthdxFV7-hm7ezNpqzWmaJxEKuWy1PINNjS/s1600/Lotus+flower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqLCVGvwiPrBQ1S79mMuraBOX9FuZDp9bks8aM6UGfOnlVawJ1wSjg_IcCUS02VZxgrkOX-D7KiKOp6NaqUoyXc1sF76m-qvnoI1OYx8ySWthdxFV7-hm7ezNpqzWmaJxEKuWy1PINNjS/s320/Lotus+flower.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>Red/pink and blue water lilies - Star Lotus <em>Nymphaea nouchali</em> the Sri Lankan national flower</strong></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXdPfqoNSQSgtCpqTcVlj3KBnbV9h1rQg0IfQXozG25mlER8CYaM8UE2va2jHhKIzOYEftBqhBDlpuo3BH2qHKx5wDJnoSJxOFODU1KY4Z30QoJLBiSnwFyghBA2dOiPRh6HXjup7ULvq0/s1600/Lotus2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXdPfqoNSQSgtCpqTcVlj3KBnbV9h1rQg0IfQXozG25mlER8CYaM8UE2va2jHhKIzOYEftBqhBDlpuo3BH2qHKx5wDJnoSJxOFODU1KY4Z30QoJLBiSnwFyghBA2dOiPRh6HXjup7ULvq0/s320/Lotus2.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>Star Lotus design again - Dutch Fort Galle</strong></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgowORZfGBMhh1BZKLYR_4d_qt0iBIXeFILps7OQPHNrHg8kr7n3ABVmSH3qyLgPJ8AA8YNE8RmwpMZSobo0VmTi0M2nM9m9Xiy6rrwH5-pw4piKb8N_Esk-8plDV3WiPmurtXdrSGUKLcq/s1600/galle7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgowORZfGBMhh1BZKLYR_4d_qt0iBIXeFILps7OQPHNrHg8kr7n3ABVmSH3qyLgPJ8AA8YNE8RmwpMZSobo0VmTi0M2nM9m9Xiy6rrwH5-pw4piKb8N_Esk-8plDV3WiPmurtXdrSGUKLcq/s320/galle7.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Endless Sri Lankan Summers!</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOlPT6ZERDpR4jj_Mwy6fOIKug74jr6LRrGabbE03Nj6UvkQzrOnpIzN70VJnQvNOaiFB5l_1ax21wmWEYryiKUvTCS2Um6O_pWcWh-cNg899xzuHTA4w5rHcj1RJlQLZfMx5TT56Ydb3P/s1600/fisherman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOlPT6ZERDpR4jj_Mwy6fOIKug74jr6LRrGabbE03Nj6UvkQzrOnpIzN70VJnQvNOaiFB5l_1ax21wmWEYryiKUvTCS2Um6O_pWcWh-cNg899xzuHTA4w5rHcj1RJlQLZfMx5TT56Ydb3P/s320/fisherman.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Southern Sri Lanka particularly the area stretching from Unawatuna to Tangalla and beyond is synonymous with some of the best sea, surf and sand in the country. Here the stilt fisherman at Koggala strut their stuff for the passing tourist trade.</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMifDaGVn1wWQUlSdx-ONpzBH1_ko1PKWHwAfCgXmQ4NL4CXPPwLORK8ZxgkAxMVfkp4lSiDEFdZWEZrpNE3TiQcFLcbKEoEI-ammXW853dsuu_kR_6U_gNgTGSwt3AqXN6yRnpPKST7FY/s1600/Flag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOUfwipCF9djqw8knfzDtidbhSsrRrorKM3jbnzax_Gv8wyMxXUGgBDfsV4d0hANgG6D1mgOV8kMezauT7yd7oA5m-zTMn0jUYGG79Pclo6DKnfo9yP6OmPd4Z9MKKPuIjBzXAr2pm69v5/s1600/P1050707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOUfwipCF9djqw8knfzDtidbhSsrRrorKM3jbnzax_Gv8wyMxXUGgBDfsV4d0hANgG6D1mgOV8kMezauT7yd7oA5m-zTMn0jUYGG79Pclo6DKnfo9yP6OmPd4Z9MKKPuIjBzXAr2pm69v5/s1600/P1050707.JPG" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><strong>A stark reminder of t</strong></span><span lang="EN" style="line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><strong>he 2004
Asian tsunami which killed more than 35,000 Sri Lankans and together with almost 3 decades of civil war, where countless other lives were lost, Sri Lankans have shown their determination and resilience to emerge as one of the fast growing global economies.</strong></span> </span></span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCBcwjMOPpttAeqcpLS-KyMxdMMnxfKiWdsB2eHbnsvD4o9dg1noaFv4k3EOJZ9nMVKCAatKeVfVXZMuQS7H0ccXwe8gGb7RvX_sDcOmdshYDsMO9Sovuiecq6Tn8qoku98MfIRlXbCjti/s1600/galle6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong></strong></span></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9rw5XdPeVd11cZbe3nKzL6j_zts8chA_QBd1AHCXcDjYb-xJpm4GNN55C4qkIb9XX41TWz4Q52yZSdBIIn1R8sIRtytq4KyYnsHwZmhr6ph90CGULPkYbP01yrr7X9KTTxvLgqV52XBN/s1600/harbour.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9rw5XdPeVd11cZbe3nKzL6j_zts8chA_QBd1AHCXcDjYb-xJpm4GNN55C4qkIb9XX41TWz4Q52yZSdBIIn1R8sIRtytq4KyYnsHwZmhr6ph90CGULPkYbP01yrr7X9KTTxvLgqV52XBN/s320/harbour.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As a nation of seafarers and fishermen Sri Lankans still rely heavily of the bounty of the surrounding ocean.</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig-lpYhlKmoh_fMIm0T12roviQgdktO7fYLVKVqDp95qhjyIcCfnOTgsFn1ICWaj774WUA5h-fJNZlyQVUBCNrVpsSmM_trB6khvq7PBuA7dn1qvCfp6lqOb5lJUMLO6ZhLmFWL5cQmB0m/s1600/Ibis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbk125FNrTG4tojm8BOaqvOMYk3lqjLqNWYLM-IJtDj9SDvBw3liaW7LaaM4BgRafQY91V4WT3Lgu3KaeJfF8fm-f5xuQWymBh74QcNrQ7nzHw5Ur-HaKNH-Iilo1v77KlZ8vCMi9-9QiW/s1600/Icon2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbk125FNrTG4tojm8BOaqvOMYk3lqjLqNWYLM-IJtDj9SDvBw3liaW7LaaM4BgRafQY91V4WT3Lgu3KaeJfF8fm-f5xuQWymBh74QcNrQ7nzHw5Ur-HaKNH-Iilo1v77KlZ8vCMi9-9QiW/s320/Icon2.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dambulla's Golden Temple</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtLz8_bKL_mUgmKpZmFkCtKBGn_2V07bSVXfeKcd_ZOZBBwL49YGtfqK6K7IfXmZ3jyABk242nQcmIsq1TjA_60nb8C-7muQpkabuSTnpOluOMnGKk2VXncS_MTxpPh7UuMaIsCABZosJu/s1600/Icon3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtLz8_bKL_mUgmKpZmFkCtKBGn_2V07bSVXfeKcd_ZOZBBwL49YGtfqK6K7IfXmZ3jyABk242nQcmIsq1TjA_60nb8C-7muQpkabuSTnpOluOMnGKk2VXncS_MTxpPh7UuMaIsCABZosJu/s320/Icon3.jpg" height="132" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dambulla's Golden Temple</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bhuddist temple Galle</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFrp2ER4_Y1UQO6GxfTlh_MpE7vhE7sn401xBklnaOa5M4oCOZ8fT7W4hvunyDz0cVv_k-I9_EVrwDs93LL60xVqQx-b8vlIRfdta-oB2_pkpJ_jR0FKZfkwgSjms-Jcyx8WGnzNUW8xtU/s1600/onroad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFrp2ER4_Y1UQO6GxfTlh_MpE7vhE7sn401xBklnaOa5M4oCOZ8fT7W4hvunyDz0cVv_k-I9_EVrwDs93LL60xVqQx-b8vlIRfdta-oB2_pkpJ_jR0FKZfkwgSjms-Jcyx8WGnzNUW8xtU/s320/onroad.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Galle </span></strong></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sri Lanka is a diverse country,
home to many religions, ethnicities and languages. It is the land of the Sinhalese,
Sri Lankan Tamils, Moors, Indian Tamils, Burghers, Malays Kaffirs and the
aboriginal Vedda. Sri Lanka has a rich Buddhist heritage, and the first known Buddhist
writings were composed on the island. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>All in the family.... numerous Habarana to Trincomalee roadside vendors peddle two unique products - water buffalo curd in earthenware/clay pots and an essential accompaniment - palm tree treacle. Both can be used together with either savoury or sweet traditional Sri Lankan dishes with the curd being smooth and very creamy. The vendor captured in the picture with his family is one of the more celebrated in the area.</strong></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A double take or not .... this most unlikely of icons - an Asian three-wheeler or tuk-tuk/bajaj done up in AB livery was found ferrying tourists around Kandy</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After construction of the Dutch-colonial Fort in the 17th century, Galle was the primary Sri Lankan port for more than 200 years and was an important stop for ships travelling between Europe and Asia. The construction of breakwaters in Colombo's harbour, in the late 19th century, sealed Galle's fate as a secondary harbour. The Fort and harbour are timeless features on Galle's coastline.</span></strong> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A pristine beach viewed from the walls of Galle's Dutch Fort</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Fort Lighthouse located on Point Utrecht Bastion</span></strong></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>Take a step back into history .......The UNESCO World Heritage Site 36 hectare Dutch Fort occupies much of the promontory that forms the older part of Galle and consists of an amazing collection of structures dating back through the centuries. It is now home to more than 400 operational houses, churches, mosques, temples, and many old commercial and government buildings. Ample tourist accommodation can also be found within the precincts of the Fort.</strong></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>Galle's Fort area .... stunning in its simplicity and symmetry</strong></span></td></tr>
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<strong>Galle's grand old Dutch
Reformed Church at the heart of </strong>the<strong> Fort complex and inaugurated in August
1755 </strong></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Finally, Sri Lanka is, in my view, the real deal and I rate the country highly as a tourism destination as it comes as this amazing gift wrapped package! It has it all in a relatively small and manageable geographical area. More importantly, it nourishes the soul once it has successfully assaulted your senses! My affinity towards this great nation is largely due to its struggle credentials (successive colonizations and the mark they have left on the people and country, the 2004 Asian tsunami and then almost 3 decades of civil war); the irrepressible spirit and resilience of the Sri Lankans; perhaps its due to the fact that I know a handful of exceptional Sri Lankans and I’ve also met many others just like them within the country itself or as part of the Sri Lankan diaspora; or perhaps it’s because President </span><span style="color: #111111; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Mahinda Rajapaksa</span><span style="color: #111111; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> </span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">thumbed his nose at British PM David Cameron at the recent Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOG) in Colombo, on </span><span style="color: #111111; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">war crimes allegedly committed by the Sri Lankan army in 2009 at the cessation of the civil war, challenging Cameron with ‘people in glass houses should not throw stones.’</span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The warm exotic embrace of Sri Lanka lingers ……. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">A word of caution is that Sri Lankan’s isolation, innocence and seductive charm has or is about to change due to an unprecedented tourism boom which saw a record number of tourists (over 800,000) visit the country in 2011. This represents an increase of almost 40% from the previous year. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its anticipated that this will continue in the short term so don’t delay in making Sri Lanka your next tourist destination. </span></span></span></div>
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Barry Greville-Eyreshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10580294543283518148noreply@blogger.com0