Saturday, November 15, 2014

Enduring Epiphany

Pics and Words by Barry Greville-Eyres 



Epiphany Greek for ‘Manifestation’ – An experience of sudden and striking realization (also WOW or AWESOME!)
 
 
 
 
The Acropolis under siege by
marauding hoards of tick-box tourists from a visiting, luxury cruise liner
 
 
 
In spite of a fleeting, first time visit to Athens and two islands within the Cyclades group (Paros and Naxos) Greece and all things Greco have ‘grabbed’ me like no other travel destination. Likened to a favorite and well-worn item of footwear (KEENs or CROCs) or clothing (flannel winter PJs), Greece is a BEST fit – it’s easy, comfortable, warm and fuzzy and molds to the body and psyche instantaneously.
 

 
  
 
Respite and under the mantle of darkness the rock massif of the Acropolis settles, more comfortably, in for the night 
 
 
Near and distant views of greater Athens
 
 
Rooftop views of urban Athens from the slopes of the Acropolis with Lycabettus Hill in the background
 
 
 

Where it all or doesn't happen - Parliament - Athens

 
  
It’s changelessness; durable nature/culture and essential Element-als of earth-soil, rocky mountains; water-azure Aegean sea and freshest ancient aquifers; air-the gamut of oceanic and land breezes and winds; and fire-sun seared régime that resonate so resoundingly.  Most memorable and visceral are: pungent goat droppings and urea – bruised aromatic herbs and treacled pine resin – flowering jasmine and citrus – freshly baked bread/pastries – and grilled seafood wafts that have washed over, caressed and haunted my senses in a ‘sense-surrounded and emotional explosion’ reminiscent, collectively, of so many other times and places. A probe so sweet, profound and achingly delicate into the deepest recesses of the consciousness and soul – déjà vu perhaps?
 
  
 
Postcard perfect! Antiparos one of the smaller isles adjacent to Paros basks in the autumn sunshine 



Hiker's delight! The Byzantine Route is one of countless countryside walks that crisscross the Cyclades group of islands
 


Gentleman from Paros pottering around



Autumn on Golden Beach - Naxos. Shades and raptures of bougainvillea, oleander, plumbago and others 



Close up of Filoti's back streets - Naxos Island


More specifically, it’s the reverence, respect and the co-existence that prevails between the islanders and elements. Development generally seems to be moderate and fairly sustainable with due regard for aesthetic as well as environmental impacts. Perhaps it’s the less conscious similarities with my South African homeland or the ‘development practitioner of fortune’ lifestyle that we lead that leaves one yearning for some grounding and familiarity. Paros and Naxos provided this and much more – in addition to this joie de vivre or heightened sense of well-being is the fundamental issue of SPACE – spatial as well as head. It’s exceedingly rare to be ‘transported’ in totality – a realization that can be unnerving yet equally mystical. 



Agia Marina or St. Marina is the first significant landmark on the ascent to Mt. Zas - Zeus departing from Filoti taking the clockwise route - a highly recommended hike


Signage guiding one to various landmarks and hiking destinations




Alas - little to do with my Greek Epiphany



An interesting plaque considering the origins of democracy - rule by the people! 



Final ascent to Mt. Zas - Zeus Naxos Island on a clear, bright sunny day



 I love Greece’s reckless abandon or its ‘demo-craziness’ ….. a lifestyle demonstrated by the philosophy of symposion - 'drinking together' - enjoying the famous triad of wine (including dining which more often than not is very fine, yet so simplistic), women and song. I observed this leisure and obvious pleasure on many occasions ……quaint, very old worldly and inspirational – as aspect missing from my personal life and something I can quite readily aspire to.



My favorite hang out and people watching place - Monastiraki Square a major thoroughfare

  
Greeks appear to live life to the fullest - little conservatism there – seemingly the way always or perhaps more so a product of the more recent, economic recession and associated woes. No holding back....leisurely meal times, plenty of socializing. Little or no Prozac-popping here and hardly any indication of Stressed Georgios and or Marias. My and the older generation have scant regard for information and communication technology - no smart phones - with a decided preference to remain blissfully disconnected, dumb and uninformed.  Essentially a decidedly different lifestyle where smoking remains very fashionable, public and cuts across all demographic groups, alcohol is consumed heartily and responsibly and physical exercise seems to be something of an afterthought. Nevertheless, this lifestyle seems to promote and secure longevity of sorts.




Charming, gentle and friendly inhabitant of the mountain village of Danakos - Naxos Island

 
 
 
More village people from Danakos taking a breather from building terraces and retaining walls planted under grape vines
 
 
 
 
Church of the Metamorphosis
 
  

Portside Naxos - clean, clear simple lines



Port of Naxos framed by the Gateway to Apollo - reputedly also the inspirational icon for National Geographic


On Greek hospitality – it’s sincere but can be quite brusque at times. It generally gets the job done and leaves one feeling at ease, at home and very welcome. Service is far from overbearing but rather very businesslike and efficient. I experienced little or no shortage of complimentary drinks and desserts but suspect that this is rather part of a winning, entrepreneurial formula ensuring many more, profitable patron returns. I found the extended trading hours particularly for tavernas, restaurants and pubs very practical and liberating. I’d strongly recommend going off the well beaten tourist track, whether on the mainland or on the Greek isles as this is where you, too, can discover the archetypal Greece and how you relate to this unique experience.  



Serving international tourists and locals for decades



On any given day, morning and afternoon, you'll be greeted by Petros at the Port of Naxos touting for business - I happened to be one of his very satisfied guests.


At the end of a comfortable two hour bus journey, on public transport, from the Port of Naxos you'll reach Apollonas on the northern tip of the island. The route traverses a number of spectacular mountain passes and takes you through villages perched precariously on the mountainsides 


Apollonas - off the beaten track but a comfortable day outing from bustling Naxos 


As rustic, traditional and historic as you can possibly get



The rural countryside and adjacent villages on Naxos are punctuated with many places of worship ....



The dreamy portside village of Naoussa on the island of Paros




This pic simple does not do justice to this majestic, old oak tree that dominates the property and Taverna Calliope


 
 
This taverna served up the freshest and tastiest home-grown, organic Greek fried potato chips cooked in none other than the best, local olive oil. The local potato variety is sought all over Greece. It thrives in fields with plenty of sun and little water. The hamlet of Moni is in the background




Once upon a time this animal drawn arrangement was used, presumably, to mill local  cereal crops



Above and below - starkly contrasting silhouettes depicting the march of time, technology and progress 

Most things on the Island of Naxos, invariably cast in  rock and stone, have withstood the ravages of time and civilization  



Yet another place of worship, this time on the island of Paros dominates the village skyline of Lefkes



 
Undoubtedly, love at first sight! Summing up and putting a wrap on my Greek Epiphany



 



Friday, November 14, 2014

Greek Botanicals and Bounty!

Images and utterances by Barry Greville-Eyres 

 
 
 
 
 
Star-studded shades, shapes and textures - plane to see and about to fall!
 
 
 
 
 
A serene and majestic 'Platanos' Plane tree keeps a watchful eye over the fountain-head at the mountainous village of Danakos - Naxos Island 
 
 
 
 
 
Pure as Pure! Life force and blood of the Greek Isles - an ancient artesian aquifer/spring dribbles and natters away to heart's content paying scant regard to passing pedestrian traffic en route to the summit of Mt. Zas - Zeus Naxos Island
 
 
 
 
 
 

Produce of Greece - Naxos Island - 110% Certified Delicious
 
 
 

Elemental - Sea, Soil and Soul food!
 
 





Local markets are a favorite 'must see' and hang out place able to enthrall endlessly and tell tales like no other......
 
 

Something about figs .... voluptuous, perky, succulent, sweet and sensuous as..... 




Sparkling ruby-granates!


Zestiest and Orangiest Oranges Ever!!





And then there's the grounded nutty, wholesome and earthiness of Greece!

 
 
All by the numbers.......








Weekend market mayhem in Athens..... great to be a fly on the wall!
 
 
 

Tickled pinky orange - LOL!
 
 
 
 
Rainbow trout - fish out of fresh water - in an otherwise seafood market
 
 

Presentation and size counts......





Happy Fish Whisperer at a market near Monastiraki Square - Athens






The proof is in the taste - deep fried anchovies and sardines 'small fish' with Mediterranean greens including capers and olives 











Seafaring scuttle bug?




Little or no backbones here ......



Waste not, want not ..... cutlets of shark





 
 
 
Fruit on the vine



Mountain village of Danakos - wholly self-reliant and existing harmoniously with the bio-physical environment

 
 
Permaculture in practice
  



Danakos - carving an existence out of the land
 
 
 
 
 
On Naxos' highland and midlands hundreds of free ranging goats and sheep are reared providing a unique environment for the culture/production of the finest Naxian cheeses. Graviera is one of Greek's most traditional table cheeses and since 1996 has earned the distinction of Name Origin Protection for its Graviera cow milk. Its a firm tasty cheese characterized by a pleasant paleness, while its body is very 'space like' filled with irregular holes.
 
 
 
 
 
Stone, hand built livestock enclosures - kraals - on the slopes of Mt. Zas - Zeus on Naxos Island
 
 
 
 
 
Nestled in mountainous terrain close to Mt. Zas - Zeus is the bustling village of Filoti - Naxos Island. Vegetation is characteristically Mediterranean with olive, fig, oak, mulberry and Cyprus trees within the well-watered village confines 


 
 
 
 

A gall fruiting body - the red shiny ball - 'parasitizes' on the growing tips of this oak tree. New growth including buds and a developing acorn fruit is clear illustrated adjacent to the gall
 
 
 

Cross-section of the developing gall clearly depicting the gall wasp grub or pupa at the centre




 
 

Oak or acorn fruit and acorn caps from one of the more distinctive oak species found on the island of Naxos
 
 

Spot this oak .... yet another endemic oak species found on Naxos Island


Close up of fruit or acorns at various stages of maturity - exquisitely perfect!

 
 
 


Good Sir - reverence and respect - Old Man Olive Tree of the Land!





You wild, wild thing!




Yet Another Marvel of Botanical Creation!
 
 
Fruit of my arboreal labor. Approximately 40 000 olive trees are cultivated on Naxos Island ensuring the island's annual oil supply - obviously an ingredient fundamental for Greek cuisine
 
 
 
Simplest yet so satisfying - Naxian staples! Arseniko is a hard, yellow very tasty mid-strength table cheese that is used primarily for grating or snacking on in the form of slices or wedges. It is made combining sheep and goat milk.