Text and pictures by Barry Greville-Eyres
Disembarking at Kochi, on an in-bound
flight from Dubai, as the only pale-face and Western international tourist
amongst countless ‘commuting’ Cochinites was, surely, an indication that I was
onto something very good! Early evidence of this was that whilst en route I was
invited to share a packed dinner with a young Indian couple and although I graciously
declined this offer (in favor of some quiet Kabul decompression time) this
unbridled act of hospitality and generosity set the tone for a cracking 10/10 –
and 10 sublime days in Kerala state.
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| My Kerala at it's most vivid best! Little more to be said...... |
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| Chai in motion - color, charm, character! |
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| Munnar under monsoon |
The fact that I was in the unique
position to experience my own lonely planet in India – of sorts, was largely
attributed to the fact that, timing wise, we were still in the throes of the
monsoon and therefore off-peak tourist season. My driver and tour guide Ossey
(contactable directly on email Oswald3344@yahoo.co.in) was superb company though and
outstanding at his craft. He was particularly attuned to my ‘ridiculously
misplaced,’ Westernized road safety standards and concerns when encountering,
often head-on, the wild banshee, kamikaze-styled driving of his countrymen. I
also had the exceptional experience of ‘cruising’ Kerala in the company of many
domestic tourists from throughout India and as consequence of my paleness,
mad-dog South Africaness and aloneness was afforded immediate ‘celeb status’
without song, dance or toss of a cricket ball. Of course, my cricket-speak/knowledge
and status as an international civil servant cemented this standing.
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| Lonely planet - India in the midst of a monsoon deluge on the backwaters of Alleppey |
Although exposed to a relatively
narrow, socio-economic segment of the domestic tourism market, I was
nevertheless impressed with their obvious pride and pleasure in all things
Indian; their overwhelming wanderlust and environmental awareness/appreciation;
and general friendliness and hospitality. All credit to the Cochin-based tourism
company Lotus Destinations Pvt Ltd (www.lotusdmc.com) and Philip Mathew
specifically for putting together a great packaged tour and itinerary that
provided diverse yet intimate insights into people and places within Kerala
State.
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| Riotous profusion - freshly prepared ceremonial garlands |
Southern India’s jewel state, globally
branded and affectionately known by domestic tourists as God's Own Country,
deserves a resounding endorsement and did not disappoint. Whereas I prefer to
let my ‘amateurish’ pictures do the talking, I’ve embellished the posting
somewhat with some personal thoughts,WOW insights and experiences.
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| Nilgiri Tahr browsing and minding his own business - Eravikulam National Park |
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| Puzzle through this - maze or mosaic of manicured tea - Munnar estates |
Variety is Kerala’s spice for life – from a myriad of
monsoon-watered falls to misty, montane hill station tea plantations to the beckoning
and breathtakingly beautiful backwaters to the surfeit shades of verdant green
to the wild and alluring ranges of the Western Ghats to handy hands teasing away
gnarly knots to gateways for gastronomic discovery to incessantly sounding
horns to the disarming, warming and genuine home hospitality – this is Kerala!
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| All creatures small........ |
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| and large .... a Spotted deer |
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| Backwater time - Alleppey - a relaxing early morning commute for most! |
Going native and off the beaten track – most certainly
requires mental and psychological re-calibration particularly with regards to
road travel and manageable distances between destinations. There is no such
thing as a quick breeze along the autobahn or freeway – bargain on top speeds
between 30-40km p/h on average to poor road conditions; take time to smell the
curries and drink delicious roadside chai and Kerala’s famed coconut water; crank
DOWN the volume on your hearing aid and let Kerala countryside and scenery seduce
you.
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| A pristine river system in the heart of the Silent Valley National Park |
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| Master of disguise! Pompadour Green Pigeon spotted in the Silent Valley National Park |
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| Another favorite icon that resonates many years later |
Going WILD! The tip of the adventure tourism iceberg – whereas the state has an abundance of protected areas (IUCN/UNESCO
declared) and although generally accessible to the public they remain, seemingly
and largely, a hidden treasure trove to hardcore adventure-based tourists –
hikers, naturalists or others seeking to ‘lose’ themselves in a totally wild
experience and geographical area. Land-use
planning and zoning, in these areas, should seek to open multiple recreational
opportunities including overnight hikes (guided or unguided) which should be
the bare minimum. A hiking way network also facilitates primary, area access
for other recreational options. Guided and popularized hiking in Silent Valley
National Park or kayaking on the backwaters at Alleppey would be particularly
appealing.
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| Myriad of monsoon-watered falls |
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| Fractured granite dome on the Kumaragiri Estate |
Kerala state bucks the system and is very far from the stereotypical
India you commonly hear or read about. Banish previously held perceptions and
open yourself to delightful discovery and a decidedly different experience. The
state is progressive, prosperous and well administered. Open spaces abound;
rural people are resilient and resourceful, healthy, productive and have struck
a customary balance (premised on sustainable development) and appreciation for
the bio-physical environment. The dominant demographic segment by age, the
youth, is vibrant, colorful, hardworking, engaging and eager to learn –
providing great hope for the future of India!
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| Hard at work! A tea-picker trying to meet her daily target at the tea plantations near Munnar |
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| Iconic Chinese fishing net off Fort Kochi |
Cuisine from Kerala is distinctive and exquisite – nuanced, scented, eye-catching, seasoned with such finesse and
subtlety according to produce, condiments, culture and tradition and regional variations.
In my experience - wholesome and healthy; fresh, safe and clean; never boring
and always delicious. On our travels Ossey guided me to mostly ‘local’,
family-oriented eateries where we shared many, memorable vegetarian dishes.
Ossey also contributed significantly to my education, culinary or otherwise, whilst
on our sojourn throughout the state and I have to extend thanks and
appreciation to him in this regard. Similarly, I am now a lungi/dhuti convert
(and will leave this up to the self-discovery, research or imagination of readers)
and have, once again, Ossey to thank for educating me and refining my taste in
this important area.
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| Enjoyed - happily! Standard fare cruising Alleppey's backwaters |
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| Fresh produce market - Munnar |
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| Out of sweetness comes forth strength..... bush tucker |
Ayurveda
and its associated treatments –
with a legacy of 5,000 years of healing and rejuvenation through natural herbs,
oils, massages and traditional treatment practices is almost guaranteed to
provide one with ‘another or out of body experience.’ It’s also a perfect foil
and counter-balance to arduous road travel, an over-exercised and stressed body
and super-sparking synapses that simply need to be short-circuited or de-powered
altogether.
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| Mayura Ayurvedic Centre - Munnar highly, highly recommended! |
