Friday, June 6, 2014

Nepal's Greatest Export and its Thriving Remittance Economy


Text and Pictures by the Blogger 



Mention Nepal and the unacquainted masses will immediately conjure up breathless images of the snow-capped rooftop of the world - Mt. Everest together with Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in their sublime 1953 summit, arguably one of but not the greatest Nepali export. The spectacular Himalayan landscape, eco-and adventure tourism opportunities and diverse, exotic cultures of Nepal represent considerable potential for a vibrant travel and leisure industry, but growth in this industry has been stifled, in recent years, by political insecurity and poor infrastructure. Despite these problems, in 2012 the number of international tourists visiting Nepal was 598,204, a 10% increase on the previous year. The tourism sector contributed nearly 3% of national GDP in 2012 and is the second biggest foreign income earner after remittances.

It’s no longer a stretch of the imagination and its an established fact that the Nepali people themselves are the country’s greatest export, especially when one considers that out of a population of approximately 27 million, nearly 2 million are absentee or migrant workers living abroad. Remittance, the transfer of foreign earnings (saved salaries and wages) by an absent worker to his or her home country, has become the mainstay of the Nepalese economy especially in the past decade. According to MPI Data Hub “Migration facts, stats and maps,” remittance received increased to $3,507 million in 2010 from $111 million in 2000.



Remittance is one of the fastest growing sectors in the Nepali economy and is estimated to be equivalent to 25-30% of GDP


Nepal's gross domestic product for 2012 was estimated at over $17.921 billion (adjusted to Nominal GDP). In 2010, agriculture accounted for 36%, services comprise 48%, and industry 15% of Nepal's GDP.  While agriculture and industry are contracting, the contribution by the service sector is increasing. Agriculture employs 76% of the workforce, services 18% and manufacturing/craft-based industry 6%. Remittance is one of the fastest growing sectors in the Nepali economy and is estimated to be equivalent to 25–30% of GDP with the figure pegged at 23% in 2013. This is significant in any impoverished country and particularly in the case of Nepal which was ranked in the 157th place on the Human Development Index (HDI - in 2013) and is one of the least developed nations in the entire world.

According to Singh (2013), Nepal is among the top five remittance countries globally with Tajikistan, Tonga, Lesotho and Moldova ranking above Nepal. Humble remittance beginnings can be traced back to the early 19th century when a sizeable Nepali population were conscripted into the British army and subsequently served with the allied powers during successive World Wars. Nepal receives approximately $50 million a year through its highly acclaimed Gurkha soldiers who serve in the Indian and British armies. With the advent of the private security contractors (PSC) industry, captured in a previous posting entitled Gargantuan Gurkhas – Nepal’s Unsung Heroes! (http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/), remittance from this source alone is largely unknown, but substantial nevertheless. This is particularly the case when one considers that several thousand Nepali PSCs have been contracted to provide base protection and other security services in Iraq and Afghanistan for well over a decade. A wholly Nepali Gurkha company in Afghanistan has currently over 700 former soldiers serving on its payroll alone. This data discrepancy confirms the immense challenge that the Nepali government has with regard to poor or undocumented labor migration information as its ‘official’ record has it that in 2010 there were only 472 migrant workers in Afghanistan.



Formal remittance or money transfer avenues but there are clear indications that inflows of remittance via 'informal channels' are equally problematic
  

Malaysia (146,938) and the Gulf countries (Qatar - 26,993, Saudi Arabia - 46,047, Bahrain – 16,673 and UAE - 21,346) accounted for 90% of Nepali migrant workers in 2010. Unprecedented migration commenced with the construction boom in the emerging economies in Asia and Gulf countries in the 1980s, providing the ideal opportunity for “young, energetic and dashing Nepalese to venture out for foreign employment and substantially higher income opportunities – all in the quest for a respectable and prestigious life.” Shumshere contends that this has led to “political and economic empowerment of people including women, offering an alternative to land-based and agrarian wealth. Around 83% of the total population lives in rural areas, meaning that not only is Nepal primarily an agrarian economy, but that population pressure on land and natural resources is also rather severe. It’s for this very reason that at least one individual from each household is engaged in employment abroad. Therefore, remittance has become an important source of household income for a large section of the country’s population. For low income people, remittance is the most important and often the only means of survival.

The rate of unemployment and underemployment in Nepal, which approaches half of the working-age population, is another key factor in the remittance economy. According to the Nepali Department of Foreign Employment the number of Nepali labor working abroad has been increasing through the years and in 2012 stood at 530,250. Nepal sends 1% skilled and 29% semi-skilled workers to about 108 destinations. The remaining 70% of workers are unskilled. This shows there is a high demand for unskilled labor abroad. Thus many citizens move to other countries in search of work. Favored destinations, not mentioned previously, include India, the United States, Thailand, the United Kingdom, Japan, Brunei Darussalam, Australia, and Canada.

A long-standing economic agreement underpins a close relationship with India. Nepal receives substantial foreign aid from India, Japan, the UK, the US, the EU, China, Switzerland, and Scandinavian countries. Poverty is acute; per-capita income is around $1,000. The distribution of wealth among the Nepalese is consistent with that in many developed and developing countries: the highest 10% of households control 39% of the national wealth and the lowest 10% control only 2.6%.

The proportion of poor Nepali people has declined substantially in recent years. The % of people living below the international poverty line (people earning less than US$1.25 per day) has halved in only seven years. At this measure of poverty the % of poor people declined from 53% in 2003/2004 to 25% in 2010/2011. With a higher poverty line of US$2 per-capita per day, poverty declined by one quarter to 57%.  However, the income distribution remains grossly uneven. In a recent survey, Nepal has performed extremely well in reducing poverty along with Rwanda and Bangladesh as the percentage of poor dropped to 44% of the population in 2011 from 65% in 2006 –4% points per year, which means that Nepal has made significant improvement in sectors like nutrition, child mortality, and electricity supply. Its argued that if the progress of reducing poverty continues at this rate, then it's predicted that Nepal will halve the current poverty rate and eradicate it within the next 20 years.


For low income Nepalese remittance is the most important means of survival


Nepal has close ties with both of its neighbors, India and China. In accordance with a long-standing treaty, Indian and Nepalese citizens may travel to each other's countries without a passport or visa. Nepalese citizens may work in India without legal restriction. The Indian Army maintains seven Gurkha regiments consisting of Gurkha troops recruited mostly from Nepal.


In conclusion, Nepal’s astounding growth in remittances is not without its “issues” or very real dangers. Singh cautions that “no matter how much remittance increases every year, the threat to the Nepalese economy because overt dependence on remittance from migrant labor may not be sustainable in the long term.” Retention of Nepal’s greatest export, its productive workforce, should become a policy imperative otherwise domestic productivity will continue to decline and the country could face a human resource crisis in the near future. Domestic and international workforce planning need to be encapsulated into a broad-based, labor policy framework that is able to address current and emerging challenges in a proactive fashion.


Some of the key findings and issues flagged by Singh include:

·         The increasing trend of migration and problems faced by migrants abroad, socio-cultural and exploitation also means there is serious problem with migration governance and a lack of government responsiveness towards creating job opportunities in Nepal;
·         Though migrant labor has led to high inflows of remitted income, it has not impacted the economy in a positive way. Slow economic growth coupled with high import-based consumption is still a problem in the country;
·         The flow of remittance through informal channels has also been a hindrance to economic development. This has encouraged money laundering.


References:

Dr Ashok Shumshere J.B.R. 2010 The Himalayan Times. Remittance Economy

Ajita Singh. 2012. Remittance and Nepalese Economy: Some Issues.














Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Gargantuan Gurkhas - Nepal's Unsung Heroes!


Words and pictures by Barry Greville-Eyres


Notwithstanding the controversy and professional distinction between groupings within the broader Gurkha Contingent (GC) – Indian, British, Nepali, Malaysian and Singaporean, this post addresses all Nepalese Gurkhas wherever they serve(d) and is designed to cast a spotlight on their immense military, peacekeeping and humanitarian achievements spanning centuries. It’s also an attempt to personalise everyday interactions with these amazing people and convey the extent to which our lives, as civilian clients, are made so safe and normal by their shadowy, protective presence.  It also celebrates the Nepali heritage, work ethos and professionalism, rich culture and traditions all of which have withstood, unwaveringly, the test of time.


Colours and symbolism of Nepal's famous Gurkhas with, at centrepiece, their traditional and signature weapon the khukuri - a forward curving Nepalese knife. Gurkhas have an indisputable reputation for their fearless military prowess


In recent travel to Nepal and in countless conversations with Nepalese, serving and retired Gurkhas, the perpetual questions of:  Why has so little been said and written about the achievements of the Warrior Gurkhas  (the absence of stories by Gurkhas for Nepali and broad-based consumption) are generally met by shrugs of the shoulders, casual nonchalance and sheepish grins – all of a decidedly conspiratorial nature.  In the delightful albeit gung-ho blog posting by James G, entitled Civilian Contractors: The Nepali Gurkha in International Security Contracting – October 2010, a number of select quotations, comments and anecdotes extol Gurkha virtues superbly and imaginatively, some of which are shared below. I hope blend these into my own personal narrative and experience, with the confidence that I do our unsung heroes justice.

“If a man says he is not afraid of dying, he is either lying or is a Gurkha”
Field  Marshal Sam Manekshaw - Former Chief of staff of the Indian Army

Having served, as a development practitioner, on tours in consecutive fragile and conflict affected states (Iraq, Timor-Leste and Afghanistan respectively) there is no escaping the vexing issue of international security contracting and those, civilian contractors, that ply their trade in this morphing multi-billion dollar industry.  My personal history (mandatory military conscription and active service in the South West African/Angolan Border War 1981/82) and subsequent close proximity to many private security contractors (PSCs) or civilian contractors (especially South African) primarily in Iraq - Baghdad, prompted me to pen an earlier posting entitled ‘Saluting Iraq’s Gentle and Caring Infidels’ (http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/2011/02/saluting-iraqs-gentle-and-caring_04.html). Struck by post-Apartheid’s spreading South African diaspora, military and civilian, I felt compelled to tell our story. Years later, there is the need to do the same on behalf of Nepali friends, colleagues and Gurkhas as they too have to contend with their own, equally fascinating diaspora.
  
“10 Expat PSC’s aren’t equal to 1 Gurkha PSC – These self-entitled US or UK PSC’s always have sand in their vaginas despite the fact they get paid 20 times more and do 1/50th the amount of work an ex-Gurkha PSC does.”

Anon, Security Contractor, Convoy Escort TL Baghdad, Iraq 2004


My most vivid, in field, recollections of Gurkha character and fortitude include snappy salutes and friendly "Good morning Sirs;" immaculately turned out men going about their business with great pride and dedication; a parched, dusty and desolate compound in Kandahar where the only life and greenery was delivered through the patchwork of lovingly tendered vegetable gardens; posted sentries having to put up with semi-inebriated and smart-arsed expats in Baghdad; countrymen and brothers-in-arms drawing great strength and comfort from one another on endless tours of duty far from family and loved ones; mind numbing routine after routine blending into so many years....... its what these men do to support their extended Nepalese families.

Early Gurkha beginnings include the Anglo-Nepalese War (1814–1816) which was fought between the Gurkha Kingdom of Nepal and the British East Indian Company as a result of territorial disputes and ruthless expansionism of both confrontational parties but more so, probably, by the bullying Brits. The impressive Gorkhali soldiers were recruited mainly from the Nepali hill tribes such as the Magar, Gurung, Tamang, Sherpa, Chhetri, Thakuris, Rai and Limbu, although original Gurkhali soldiers were mainly of Chhetri, Thakuri, Gurung, Magar, Rai and Limbu ethnics.



Gurkhas in the making - Nusseree Battalion Circa, 1857



There were many battles of which the Battle of Kalanga in 1814 is well documented. Balbhadra Kunwar, who had approximately 600 Gurkhas under his command, held high ground against some 4,000 attacking British troops. After being besieged for almost a month and in almost constant mortal combat Balbhadra and about 70 remaining survivors managed to slip away, silently and undetected, through the British lines. The war ended with the signing of the Peace Treaty of Sugauli in 1816 and it was agreed that Gorkhalis could be recruited to serve under contract in the East India Company's army. Under contract implies some form of remuneration and perhaps the true origin of the latter day remittance economy that thrives within Nepal to this day. 

In a personal conversation with Padam Bahadur Limbu MVO (Bahadur Limbu – one of the original Gurkha Warrior Castes in Nepal), retired British Army Major (2nd Battalion, Royal Gurkha Rifles) and current Senior Project Manager for IDG Gurkha Security Services (Afghanistan) he confirmed “the pride and importance of the home-grown, Nepali Gurkha brand name globally, particularly within military and security contracting circles.” According to him the brand is indisputable and synonymous with “professionalism, impeccable discipline and service, integrity, resilience, reliability and unsurpassed bravery and toughness.”

A 3rd generation Gurkha, Padam served for 31years in the British Gurkha Army undertaking tours of duty in the Falkland Islands, Bosnia, Sierra Leone, Iraq, Afghanistan. He was somewhat reluctant to discuss his first tour of duty, as a very young man, to the distant Falklands War  more out of modesty than bravado.  Amongst many personal achievements and distinguished decorations, his most prized is MVO Member, The Royal Victorian Order. Membership is conferred by the reigning monarch, in this case HM Queen Elizabeth II, on those who have performed personal service for the sovereign. Padam served directly as Queen's orderly officer at Buckingham Palace for HM Queen. 
 
 
 
Major Padam Bahadur Limbu MVO, proud recipient of the illustrious decoration Member, The Royal Victorian Order together with his family at Buckingham Palace. (Photo: Courtesy of Padam Bahadur Limbu)
 

. “As a testament to these fearless little warriors from Nepal, is a story (that can be verified) from the Falklands Conflict. The Argentinians were dug in on one of the mountains leading up to Port Stanley and were intent on making a fight of it. When they were told that they would be up against the Gurkhas, to a man, they either surrendered or fled, without a shot being fired. Of course, the Ghurkas were very disappointed with this outcome but I think it speaks volumes of the reputation of these tough little fighters.”
 Richard Newson
 
 
 
Major Padam Bahadur Limbu, 2nd  Battalion Royal Gurkha Rifles at Buckingham Palace prior to receiving his MVO award for personal service to HM Queen Elizabeth II   (Photo: Courtesy of Padam Bahadur Limbu)
 
 
 
 
 

Of IDG, founded by the rather private and reclusive Ian Douglas Gordon aka IDG (comrades-in-arms and also ex-officer with the 7th Duke of Edinburgh’s Own Gurkha Rifles) Padam confirmed that within Afghanistan IDG provides exclusive personal security and key installation/property protections services to a host of UN agencies country-wide. The company specializes in Gurkha - 100% Nepali recruited and Indian domiciled – international armed guards that are selected and placed according to IDG’s stringent selection criteria including a minimum of 14 years active military service. Unlike other PSCs who use ‘intermediate’ recruitment agencies, IDG is the real deal and currently employs over 700 highly trained and experienced Gurkhas throughout Afghanistan.

Whereas Nepal's GDP per capita income is estimated at $1,200 - $1,400 pa (2012), most internationally contracted Gurkhas earn this per month. Since most overseas living expenses (accommodation, food, clothing/uniforms) are provided by the contractor or employer, the bulk of savings are remitted back to their families, often living in rural Nepal. Typically, serving Gurkhas have annual leave of about a month where they are flown back home at company expense.   


One of the many distinguished British Army Gurkha regiments - 7th Duke of Edinburgh's Own Gurkha Rifles



Padam was rather outspoken on the “misrepresentation of the enduring Gurkha brand and its erosion and potential abuse by unscrupulous players in the burgeoning PSC market place.” According to Padam ‘fake Gurkhas,’ without requisite training, skills and experience, tarnish the true Gurkha reputation and tradition and potentially put the lives of clients at very real risk.  Although no longer a resident of Nepal, Padam visits his former homeland almost every year and is proudly Nepali. He speaks fondly of his countrymen and the immense sacrifice and contributions they have made to the stability, reconstruction and development of Afghanistan – a far cry from the days when Gurkas, conscripted into the British Army, faced active combat in distant and exotic destinations such as Kabul and Kandahar (1878–1880). It’s estimated that at any one time there are several thousand Nepalese living and working, throughout Afghanistan, serving in many diverse roles and occupations.


Home-grown and brewed - the Gorkha brand is authentic, reputable and timeless and obviously wholly Nepali Himalayan 



“Having had the pleasure of working side by side with Gurkhas a few times throughout my contracting career I can attest to their discipline and professionalism. Out of all the groups of people I have worked with the ex-Brit Gurkha is by far my favorite.”
“You will never meet an ex-Brit Gurkha PSC who has the Douchebag Affliction shirt wearing, beard growing, shitty attitude that is unfortunately so prevalent in this industry these days. These guys have zero ego despite having more combat experience in their pinky than most people have in their entire body – and I am talking about old school combat experience like “wearing face-paint in the jungle” type of fighting.”
Anon.

Gurkhas were always thought to be a superior warrior or martial race because they were considered to be naturally warlike and aggressive in battle; to possess attributes of courage, loyalty, self-reliance, physical strength, resilience, organization; to be able to work hard for long periods of time and; to fight with resolve and military strength. In preparation for some modest trekking in the Annapurna Conservation Area and upon the sound recommendation of a Nepali friend of a Nepali friend, I was able to engage the superb guiding services of  Krisna Bahadur Gurung (krisnababu22@hotmail.com Mobile no. +977 – 9846104807).


The blogger with Krisna Bahadur Gurung taking a breather, on a mountain high and trek, within the Annapurna Conservation Area



After trekking together for several days I was left with no doubt that Krisna, hailing from the village of Gorkha and specifically from the Gurung hill tribe, was one such superior human being. With the burning desire to follow in the true Gurkha tradition, he faltered at the final selection hurdle due to his inability to meet the minimum set weight requirement of 50kgs. Its with a calm resignation, maturity and re-directed energy and commitment (to being the best possible professional trekking guide) that this personal disappointment still and will always remain with him.  This was brought sharply to the fore when he accompanied me to one of the many jewels in Pokhara’s (Nepal’s second largest city) crown – the Gurkha Memorial Musuem. Pride and pleasure were tinged with a real sense of loss and regret - all on a crazy collision course which left us both pretty bewildered.


The Gurkha Memorial Museum a must visit  asset in Pokhara 



We’d both come off a mountain high and I was totally unprepared for the avalanche of emotions that rushed down upon me as we worked our way through the museum. The more recent, recorded history (1800s onwards) is captured in an honest and wholly unpretentious manner. With an unquestionable and impressive roll of honor, I was welcomed into this inner sanctum – drawn by countless ethereal greetings and knowing gazes of serious, virile young men who’d had their date with destiny and glory. I was deeply moved by their call to serve, campaign upon campaign – so little personal gain yet such sacrifice on foreign shores afar.  Many men betrayed shades of mischief, adventure, indomitable belief and innocence but all wore their immaculate uniforms, literally and figuratively as one - gargantuan Gurkha! 
        
To Krisna’s credit, he has progressed through the ranks from a teenaged porter hauling, nimble-footed and at great speed, ungainly loads of up to 70kgs over insane terrain to the pinnacle of his profession – a highly polished, knowledgeably and thoroughly professional trekking guide. From my perspective it was uncanny to witness this genetic programming in action – Krisna’s ease with and reading of clients of all nationalities; his uncanny field and bush craft; his powers of observation and anticipation to catch a client when he/she falters or falls; his natural service orientation and so strikingly, his radiant Nepali sunshine and personality as it emerges from behind the clouds of doubt and insecurity.
   
Since its formation in 1949 with 142 men, the Gurkha contingent has grown to over 2,000 in size in 2003. This was a consequence of Indian Independence from Britain in 1947, where 10 regiments of Gurkhas from the British Indian Army were divided between the Indian Army (Gorkha) and the British Army (Gurkha). Those transferred to the British Army were posted to other remaining British Colonies in Malaya and Singapore. Young men are recruited in Nepal at the British Gurkha camp in Pokhara. About 370 are selected annually in December out of a pool of over 20,000 applications with about 140 eventually joining the GC while the rest will go to the British Army.

Some of the basic physical admission criteria in the recruitment camp include:
*  Aged 17½ to 21
*  Minimum height of 160 centimetres (5 feet)
*  Minimum weight of 50 kilograms (110 lbs)
*  Chest circumference of 79 centimetres (31 in) with minimum 5 centimetres (2 in) expansion
*  No applicants needing eyesight aids will be accepted.
*  Generally good oral hygiene, with up to two fillings, false teeth or a single gap.

The proud Gurkha legacy lives on


Applicants are expected to possess a minimum education level of SLC 3rd Division equivalent to 'O' Levels. Upon registration, they have to go through a battery of physical and mental assessments prior to selection, including oral and written tests in the English language, a mathematics test, a board interview and medical examination. The annual selection process, which normally takes 17 days but is spread over four months due to conditions in Nepal, will then assign recruits to either the GC or the British Army.

During World War II (1939–45), following the Dunkirk evacuation of the British Expeditionary Force in 1940, the Nepalese government offered to increase recruitment of Gurkha battalions in British service to thirty-five. This would eventually rise to forty-three battalions. This expansion required ten training centres to be established for basic training and regimental records across India. In addition five training battalions were raised, while other units were raised as garrison battalions for keeping the peace in India and defending rear areas. Large numbers of Gurkha men were also recruited for non-Gurkha units, and other specialised functions such as paratroops, signals, engineers, and military police.

 “Gurkha combat rifle load is 20 rounds. Their combat philosophy is to close on the enemy with those 20 rounds, and use the Kukri to eliminate the enemy.”
 “Those guys are some of the most switched on dudes I have come across. I haven’t worked with them, but have been around them and I was impressed.”

A total of 250,280 Gurkhas served in 40 battalions, plus eight Nepalese Army battalions, plus parachute, training, garrison, and porter units during the war, in almost all theatres. In addition to keeping peace in India, Gurkhas fought in the hot deserts of North Africa, the cold winters of Europe or the muddy jungles of Burma. Apart from small detachments, the main Gurkha regiments fought in Italy, Greece and Burma. They did so with considerable distinction, earning 2,734 bravery awards including 10 Victoria Crosses in the process and suffering around 32,000 casualties – wounded, dead or missing – in all theatres of war. In effect the entire youth of Nepal was placed at the disposal of the British war machine. With a population of only four million people at the time, this meant that almost every Nepali of military age was serving the British Crown.

In the 1920’s and 1930’s the Gurkha regiments formed a substantial part of the Garrison of India, and played an active and special role securing its borders and holding its remotest regions. In 1935, during a fatal earthquake in Quetta – Pakistan two Gurkas from the 8th Gurkha Rifles received the George Cross for extreme bravery not in the face of the enemy. 



Gurkha Roll of Honour - 13 Victoria Cross recipients for bravery and gallantry 



  
During World War I (1914–18), more than 200,000 Gurkhas served in the British Army in Europe, suffering approximately 20,000 casualties, and receiving almost 2,000 gallantry awards. The number of Gurkha battalions was increased to thirty-three, and Gurkha units were placed at the disposal of the British high command by the Nepalese government for service on all fronts. Many Nepalese volunteers served in non-combatant roles, serving in units such as the Army Bearer Corps and the labour battalions, but there were also large numbers that served in combat in France, Turkey, Palestine, and Mesopotamia. They served on the battlefields of France in Mesopotamia, Persia, Suez Canal and Palestine against Turkish advance, Gallipoi and Salonika. During the ultimately unsuccessful Gallipoli campaign in 1915, the Gurkhas were among the first to arrive and the last to leave.

“As I write these last words, my thoughts return to you who were my comrades, the stubborn and indomitable peasants of Nepal. Once more I hear the laughter with which you greeted every hardship. Once more I see you in your bivouacs or about your fires, on forced march or in the trenches, now shivering with wet and cold, now scorched by a pitiless and burning sun. Uncomplaining you endure hunger and thirst and wounds; and at the last your unwavering lines disappear into the smoke and wrath of battle. Bravest of the brave, most generous of the generous, never had country more faithful friends than you.”
Professor Sir Ralph Turner, MC - 3rd Queen Alexandra’s Own Gurkha Rifles World War I


Nepali Gurkhas heavily involved in Afghanistan whether in the formal military or international security contracting



Gurkhas are served and saw action in the Falklands War in 1982, in the Gulf conflict in 1990 and thereafter in peacekeeping missions to Africa, the former Yugoslavia, Timor-Leste, Afghanistan, Macedonia, Bosnia and Sierra Leone.



Enough said!




 

 
Postscript

On the 18th April 2014, 16 Nepali Mountain Warriors or Sherpas (from the Sherpa tribe) lost their lives on the slopes of Mt. Everest, to a deadly avalanche of ice and snow, whilst preparing for the 2014 climbing season. Some Sherpa guides were angered by the government's meagre offer of compensation to victim's families and threatened a strong protest or strike. On 22nd April, the Sherpas announced they would not work on Everest for the remainder of 2014 as a mark of respect for the victims and their families. More than 250 people have died climbing Mount Everest. However, the 2014 avalanche was the deadliest in Everest's history, superseding a 1996 disaster when eight foreign climbers died. 

 In life and death, we salute Nepal’s Unsung Heroes!



In life and death we salute Nepal's Unsung Heroes!











































Thursday, April 3, 2014

A Dozen or More Beds.........

Text and pictures by Blogger 

 
 
But where do you go to my lovely
 When you're alone in your bed
Tell me the thoughts that surround you
I want to look into your head, yes I do.
Where do you go to my lovely chorus – Peter Sarstedt

  
I’ve slept in my fair share and both – repose and beds – have become a fascination, in recent years, particularly when you are constantly hopping in and out of them in the most unlikely places. An opiate, the elixir of life, an emotional and psychological tortured rack, lurking shadows – Tell me the thoughts that surround you – marish nights never ending and barely controllable beasts. Arrhythmic capital cities, intercontinental travel, unfamiliar and conflict-affected environments, aloneness, restless soul(s) and age deprive one of the purest, simplest and most blissful escapes. 

Bed, bedder, bedded, better dead – conjugal, death, flower, burning, hospital, rose - BEDS! So much commonality and finality! Why is it then so surprising and shocking to most that, ultimately, you are as you arrived and depart from this earthly existence - bedbound and more often on your very own or oblivious of those around you?  

Singles – reminiscent of childhood and adolescence negotiated in a blur of staccato snapshots. Easy, carefree, natural and so full of anticipation and promise juxtaposed with the all-pervading reality of twilight years ahead - a cruel yet the inevitable prospect of emptiness – fending, fighting and warding off..... Turning full circle in a twirling and twisted tango.  
 
 
Singles..... Green Village accommodation - Kabul Afghanistan


 
Three quarters – bold, brave, productive, passionate, euphoric, crowded and the shortest of interludes en route to dreams and destinations  unchartered.  

Kings, Queens and Families – So real, so sustaining, imprinted life, form and shapes - was it real? Once the centre of the universe, purpose and peace; vivid, vibrant and boisterous 24/7/365 visitations; dreams delivered and dashed; sense-arounded and cocooned in envelopes of intimacy and familiarity; pleasurable presences - leisurely caresses and traded secrets all but blunted now by tell-tale time, circumstance and LIFE ………  fading facsimiles ……….empty footfalls; uncomfortable and enduring silences; bodily superheated and suffused sheets slowly dissipating ………cleansed, sanitized, washed away, non-lingering, nothingness; stark, spreadeagled, chalked crime-scene silhouettes freeze-framed - older, colder, COLD! Achingly dismembered and disabled yet finding sensibilities, solace and self in numbing loneliness.  

As a response, befriending the most unlikely of companions with grace and humility especially H.R.H Insomnia - the obnoxious, unannounced, disagreeable and 'unliked' surrogate socialite that she is as H.R.H drops in occasionally, like a smothering cloak, for rude but intimate awakenings between 2-5 am. Leaving one savagely abused and crudely bruised and invariably facing a zombied day ahead as one of the many, walking dead. Her attempts and no good are thwarted by another old and regal friend, St. John's Wort, chased down with a few pages from a good read. Then ….. glorious repose rushing to meet you swiftly and sweetly - oblivion with incredible restorative and rejuvenating powers - a hint and lasting legacy of the past and perhaps, perhaps a furtive, fleeting hope for the future. 
 
 
The blogger ......flat-backed on one of a dozen or more beds