Thursday, May 31, 2012

Adeus Timor-Leste!


This pictorial best defines and represents Timor-Leste - relating its own unique story. Pics and odd words by the Blogger 

My Timor - the best possible depiction Ever!


Feast your eyes on this ..... traditional Kupang fare - piquant and delectable out of Indonesia's Nussa Tenggara Timur

Maubissie's landmark Catholic Church dwarfs the tiny mountain hamlet renowed for its excellent export quality, organic Arabica  coffee


Don't mess with me ....I see you too 

Dili's well-trodden Cristo Rei circuit decked out in summertime finery.

Lest we forget - Timor-Leste's Darkest Side

Outdoor classroom Oe-Cusse - Snr. Luis, lecturer from the National Institute for Public Administration, in action.

Serious business .......Snr. Nuno negotiates a fair price for handcrafted tais


Atop Tatamailau!

An aerial view of the Cristo Rei Circular walks 8kms and 12kms respectively


Timor-Leste boasts with some of the best snorkelling and scuba diving in the world


Dollar Beach is one of the many pristine snorkelling spots in close proximity to Dili

Mates mucking around - good, clean fun!

Bright-eyed, brave and driving into the future as Timorese

A distinctive peninsula delineating the Hera and Metinaro sub districts approximately 20kms east of Dili




After......... 
 Before..... Timorese produce - freshest, distinctive and organic



Best dressed - a Timorese Summer 























Development's softer side

Volunteers abroad including the United Nations Integrated Mission to Timor-Leste (UNMIT)                
 Words and Photographs by Barry Greville-Eyres


UN Service Medal presentation to Malaysian Formed Police Unit


Having recently farewelled the pride of Malaysia’s Royal National Police Force – the Malaysian Formed Police Unit (MAL-FPU) which forms the most enduring and an important part of the United Nations Integrated Mission to Timor-Leste (UNMIT), it’s an opportune time to reflect upon the less obvious side of development. Personal sacrifice through volunteerism is the noblest and altruistic side of international development that warrants, in my view, specific mention.


Assistant Superintendent Lim Chee Teong (right) and one of his NCOs - Malaysian Royal Police at the farewell UN Service Medal Presentation in Dili recently

The MAL-FPU is a highly trained, rapid reaction force tasked primarily with policing and stabilization on the western approaches to Dili via Comoro Road. The unit also closely guards access to the all-important and only international airport and the Comoro River bridgehead which divides Dili’s commercial, residential, political-administrative and manufacturing heartland disproportionately.  Rotations are generally of a six monthly duration with a return, rest and recovery period in Malaysia of about two weeks midway through their tour of duty. Whilst in Timor, all staff receives a modest daily allowance to cover incidental and essential expenses but beyond that the ladies and gentlemen receive no additional remuneration for an absence from homeland and loved ones.
  

MAL-FPU perfect their crowd control techniques
I’ve been a witness to their ongoing service to Timor-Leste and the international community – one of dedication and distinction but it’s their composure, empathy, warmth, humility and Asianness – their ability to connect with the Timorese that differentiates them from all others. Their linguistic proficiency is astounding with many fluent in half a dozen regional languages and capable of picking up Tetun in an instant. Besides their conventional policing role, FPU conducts a community outreach program focussing on public health and safety. Women appear to be well represented throughout the broader Malaysian contingent although primarily in non-combat roles. I’ve also experienced their wonderful culture, camaraderie, hospitality and many culinary delights and it’s little wonder that Malaysia – Truly Asia occupies a must-visit destination on my travel list.


The newly arrived, June-December 2012, rotation of MAL-FPU relax with Pit a friendly local
Since the men are generally confined to barracks and constantly on standby, they've turned their hands and minds to many inventive pastimes including vegetable gardening, metal and wood work and  a full range of sporting activities. Their lives, on mission, are full and exciting and most seem to breeze through their time here without any problems.  


My Antipodean colleagues also deserve a special mention with Australian Army Reservists – essentially volunteers – taking a ‘service year’ to represent the Australian Defence Forces in Timor-Leste. They are an extraordinary bunch of young men who have taken time out from their private lives and personal relationships to represent Australia and support the people of Timor. One should not be misled by the notion that volunteerism is a ‘free ticket’ to representing the ADF in Timor. On the contrary, reservists serving in Timor have had to ‘earn’ their right to deployment through a series of stringent selection requirements. The right people are here for the right reasons and this is clearly the case.








'Brothers in Arms' - the blogger is flanked by UNMIT forces - Ugandan and Malaysian Police Officers respectively

Our African ‘brothers in arms’ – a geo-political world away from their continent – also deserve accolades. Small African police contingents, representing Ghana, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Uganda, Gambia, Nigeria, consolidated under UNMIT have also charmed and made their presence felt in Timor-Leste.




South Africa's King Air Services provide exclusive charter and medivac services for the United Nations Integrated Mission to Timor-Leste. Here the team gear up for another busy day at the office!
  
Dili’s thriving expat community, its own weird universal amalgam of development practitioners, has also left a lasting philanthropic mark on Timorese society. More specifically, I salute the Australian spirit and generosity; perhaps a collective conscience – whereas the significant few have conveniently forgotten – countless other ‘fair dinkum’ Aussies have remembered. Australian individuals, towns and states, schools, community groups, NGOs are rebuilding the people and institutions of Timor-Leste, often, independently and outside of the official aid program. This generates immense goodwill particularly at community level and needs are often being met, side by side, with greater impact, focus and pragmatism.   
Volunteer English tutors drawn from Dili's expat community take time out of the classroom with University of Timor-Leste students. Pic courtesy of Greg Fergin


Fund raising is a constant and aid workers and expats of all nationalities take volunteerism to a new level in that it becomes second nature and an important part of Dili's social scene. Quiz evenings, film screenings, art and music festivals, frequent formal balls; a plethora of lessons - dancing, choral, language etc all rake in the expat dollar which is, presumably, channelled  back into Timorese communities near and far. In addition, many donate their time, experience and intellectual capacity to a range of deserving local causes. In a strangely symbiotic way,  malae-sira are both producers and consumers in Dili's economy. It is hoped that through both informal (active expat community) and formal (government)  stakeholders that thought and consideration  will be given to the impact(s) that the significant reduction in aid workers / peace keepers - as a result of the planned December 2012 UNMIT drawdown - will have on Dili's economy. Its a harsh reality that must be confronted proactively and head on.


Cultural and culinary appreciation! University students enjoy a traditional, Australian sausage sizzle. Pic courtesy of Greg Fergin

Monday, February 13, 2012

Asia's Mother of Necessity: The Ubiquitous Motorbike

From Jakarta to Dili to Bangkok to Manila and to every other, equally exotic, Asian capital city there’s absolutely no escaping them…..



The 'bikie culture' as we know it - boyz with coiffured hair, decked out in leathers astride an expensive, high powered toy - definitely out to impress!



Firstly, let me put my ‘disclaimer’ down from the outset … these ramblings are from an eco-freak and non-fossil fuel, cylinder head therefore, I guess, I’m hardly qualified to comment. The only throbbing I’ve felt between my legs is bum numbness induced by hours humping around on a mountain bicycle saddle and I can’t really recall having felt the wind blowing through my hair because my golden, flowing locks deserted me many moons ago. I once had a brief flirtation with a MB as a young forester but it didn’t blossom much beyond that. Cars and MBs have rarely been the object of my desire or fascination – they simply don’t do it for me and I’ve used and sometimes abused them over the years merely as a convenient conveyance.   



A family outing at the seaside resort of Com enjoyed by all
Although I may be described by the hard core bikies as a conservative old bat, my views on MBs have become even more entrenched with time and recent experiences in Asia. In this part of the world they are the bane of my life. Undoubtedly, they are unmanned drones especially in the hands of the Timorese youth, coffins on wheels that are smelly, smoky and incessantly noisy. The definition of youth here is decidedly different from that of elsewhere. Bike riders are often unlicensed and its common to find children aged around ten or younger experimenting on Dili’s congested roads.


Have MB will travel..... over land, sea, and mountain .... distance or terrain is never an issue for our intrepid travellers. MBs loaded on a ferry from Kupang to Rote Island
I simply adore my MB, there is no other!

To our Asian friends, the motorbike is everything and so much more. For most, a giant leap into the 21st century, ‘affordable mass’ transport where it’s not unusual to get three to five up – an entire family on one MB! They also offer vastly increased mobility, and despite challenging terrain, bikers travel vast distances on their trusty steeds. The catch phrase in this neck of the woods is: ‘Have MB, will travel….’ and Asians are not daunted at all by land, sea, mountain, jungle, and river.


A sales rep with a difference.....
The Dark Knight vs his counterpart....
They’ve also become ‘new age’ work horses and in this regard their commercial value and earning potential cannot be underestimated – all manner of sales representatives use MBs to ply their trade….. plastic & cookware, clothing & linen, fish mongers, miscellaneous trinkets and jewellery and self-contained fast food eateries on wheels. MB taxis are common in the impoverished rural areas are often the only available form of transportation.  


Meals on meals - Rote Island
For young adults, MBs are their pride (definitely a status symbol linked to economic prosperity) and joy. The wilder, recreational side includes drag and street racing, especially in Dili, although it’s not something I’ve encountered first hand. Thrills and spills are aplenty but since they generally appear to happen at low speeds, fatalities seem to be relatively low.  It's the head-on collisions, with other motor vehicles, that exact a deadly toll and memorials consisting of rock cairns, flowers arrangements and crucifixes are found dotted around the countryside in profusion.


This roadside fast food vendor received a steady stream of hungry customers






MBs loaded for Indo-island hopping between Timor and Indonesia


Australian and other Western tourists get to ‘live out’ their own version of the Mad Max trilogy whilst vacationing in Asia and Bali is the prime spot to hire low powered MBs at inexpensive, daily rates. The young, wild and reckless can have fun in the sun, joining their own lemming run, all the while thumbing their noses at ‘conventional’ traffic rules and breaking many with impunity. A case of Who let the dogs Out?  In spite of this, fatalities and injuries seem to be relatively low or are perhaps under-reported. The obligatory apparel here is the Bintang singlet, thongs, boardie shorts, peroxided mullet, strategically located tats and all rounded off with a light to moderate state of intoxication.   


Jakarta, Blok M peak hour traffic (2008ish) a nightmare for pedestrians with elevated carbon monoxide levels ....
Bikie facts

·         Major Japanese MB brands are manufactured under license in Indonesia including Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki (in order of popularity, value for money and reliability especially in Timor-Leste);

·         A new Indonesian manufactured Honda 125cc MB retails in Dili, Timor-Leste for around US$1,300 - strictly cash only;

·         There is a roaring trade in both new and second hand MBs but rarely higher than 250cc;

·         Wearing of crash helmets is ‘supposed’ to be compulsory locally, although this is not strictly policed with a ‘good quality’ helmet retailing for approx. US$35. Pillion riders – babes in arms, toddlers, children, teenagers, adults and the elderly seldom wear protective headgear;

·         All manner of ‘imaginable’ engine and exhaust modification takes place with little or no policing;

·         Yamahas are the preferred street and drag racing MB;

·         The impact of millions of MBs on the regional environment is clearly the ‘great unknown’ yet even so, if every third or fourth Asian family share a MB is quite likely that their carbon footprint is still significantly lower than that of the average Australian or American family (consisting of 2 motor vehicles – the obligatory 4-wheel drive and mid-sized family sedan, multiple plasma screen televisions, A/Cs and countless other  energy-eating appliances).


'Free' pavement parking in Jakarta




































Saturday, February 4, 2012

Breaking out of the Lethargy and Siege Mentality that Imprisons Timor-Leste

All too soon the UN and countless other agencies will pack up their kit-bags and head off to the next crisis….confident of a job well done. Boxes ticked, budgets blown, buildings built, systems in place, capacity developed, skills transferred to be farewelled by a more than audible sigh of collective relief.

Given Timor’s turbulent history (especially the accumulation of deprivation, suppression, violence, and trauma across successive generations ….. on the spirit, soul and the psyche of this nation) and the recent unprecedented change that has engulfed this country, I cannot but wonder whether there is still some very, important unfinished business at hand. Some aid initiatives, particularly through non-governmental and community-based organisations, have directly provided psychosocial, coping or change management support to marginalised groups. Despite this, there is a lingering sense that mainstream Timorese society, as resilient as it may appear, is still haunted and indelibly affected by the more and less recent past. This begs the question: has the development community done enough to support the needs of the Timorese?   
 
Extract from an earlier post: Poignant and life-changing markers in time, October 2011.

A derelict Indonesian occupation-era prison on the outskirts of the Oe-cusse enclave

In recent months I’ve been extremely fortunate to have a couple of first hand, WOW experiences in relation to a, potential, missing development link in Timor-Leste. This revelation answers, in part, a concern raised in an earlier posting. Whereas Timor’s telling and arguably most destructive occupations are long over, the country continues to be inflicted with a numbing siege mentality – a legacy of centuries of occupation and a post-independence occupation of ‘different sorts.’

Forced occupations by the Portuguese, Japanese and Indonesians were largely characterised by a control and command orientation whereas a more recent, decade  of ‘voluntary’ UN occupation differs considerably – leaning towards a developmental approach with coaching and capacity development featuring prominently.

The nature of the command and control orientation under the respective occupiers also differs – Continental/Mediterranean Portugal (Christian Catholic) once a colonial power but very much on the wane lately. The country now languishes in the wake of the global financial crisis and is a primary member of the ‘illustrious’ PIGS financial bloc.  During the colonial period, Portuguese administrative power was concentrated at the centre (Dili) with little more than pottering around on the periphery (numerous, rural administrative districts). It’s ‘insanely’ ironic that in a few months Timorese will be ‘celebrating’ 500 years of Portuguese founding and occupation. 

Indonesia (the world’s most populous Islamic country), with its crescent waxing and  emerging as an Asian superpower simple saturated Timor-Leste with the sheer weight of military might. This practice is continued to this day in West Papua and is conveniently ignored, by the old firm, in a bizarre déjà vu. Contrast this then, with the more recent ‘international’ occupation force headlined by the UN but including a hodgepodge of donor countries that are more likely, Eurocentric in orientation.

Neatly sandwiched between this are the Timorese people and herein lies the immense development dilemma. For too long they have been trapped between the extremities of these very different development paradigms - Timorese and Malae sira (all manner of foreigners). There is little wonder that Timorese are culturally, developmentally and psychosocially shocked and confused.

As development practitioners it’s critical that we are cognisant of this and adjust our frame(s) of reference, understanding and expectations accordingly. How does one manage and tread the fine development line between doing too much – controlling,  commanding, disempowering, suppressing and stifling local initiative/self-determination; and doing too little – casting a country and people aside and setting them up for failure?  
Acceptable limits need to be set on either side of the development line where based on specific circumstances and timing, one can cross the line with impunity, yet remain within acceptable limits, to achieve specific developmental objectives. Self-correction appears to be a natural tendency that happens, over time, often with little or no direct management intervention. Going beyond ‘acceptable limits,’ denoted in diagram 1 by the dotted line, tends to lead to compromise. The compromise here can be considerable and in many forms – compromising values and ethics, political and administrative governance, sustainable development, integrity, trust, and norms and standards.

Diagram 1. The CD Continuum

The concept of the fine development line bracketed by acceptable or tolerable developmental levels is similar to that of the ecotone in a bio-physical environment.  The ecotone is a  transition zone between different habitats such as forest and grassland, often characterised by a convergence of life forms from both habitats. This invariably results in immense species richness and diversity as organisms (plants and animals), transition from their ‘specialist’ habitats to the ecotone.


Learning, especially action-oriented and on-the-job for counterparts and advisors alike is greatest and richest within this ‘devzone’ provided that mutual rapport, trust and respect has been established from inception. Initially, an advisor may have to step over the fine line and ‘do more’ in order to win credibility, trust and build rapport but will then have to self-correct once a healthy, working relationship is established. Experienced practitioners intuitively surf this devzone knowing when to assist or guide based on their assessment of the unique circumstances.  

 Without skirting around the issue and being brutally honest, Timorese leadership need to develop the confidence and temerity, based on informed opinion, to tell regional bullyboys and meddlers from further afield to butt out and bugger off. This is already happening with the Timorese government enforcing contractual obligations, related of oil and gas concessions, granted to Australian partner companies. With presidential and parliamentary elections looming; and the UN set to implement a phased withdrawal shortly thereafter, it’s perhaps the opportune time to take stock and for Timorese to work on freeing Timorese from the siege mentality that has entrapped the country.

Where to from here?? What is needed are cool heads, courageous hearts – Old school is good but if infused with the exuberance, creativity, constructive engagement and energy of the youth it’s even better! Young and old need to soldier on together – excluding or marginalising the burgeoning and highly ‘expectant’ youth will be at the peril of the old guard and the country. 

It is hoped that a decade of international development assistance has developed and installed a leadership cadre that is self-assured, analytical, critical, well read and informed capable of decision making and calculated risk taking. Of greater importance, is a leadership that will embrace and celebrate things Timorese and resist ‘cloning’ or replicating archaic administrative and political systems that are wholly and/or generally inappropriate for Timor-Leste. We all hope for a new, invigorated government that will follow a path of measured moderation and modernisation where the leadership and people of Timor-Leste find their voices, suppressed and silenced for too long, as a sovereign nation with every right to self-determination.

Timorese are undoubtedly survivors and at the very centre of this is their unshakeably, customary Uma Lulik/religious faith. The very essence of being Timorese complete with a resurgent culture and tradition that has sustained and strengthened Timorese over centuries. One would hope that within the process of UN-nisation and Westernisation, that a home-grown brand of stewardship and governance will evolve retaining attributes of the old and blending them with attributes of the new world.

My personal ‘wish list’ for Timor-Leste:   
·         Reinforce and reward Timorese uniqueness and enterprise;
·         Embark upon an aggressive ‘nation building’ program of reconstruction and development (capital works) where Timorese will be the drivers and unemployed Timorese youth will be the primary beneficiaries. This should be linked to  systematic up-skilling of the youth;   
·         Promote Timorese icons – role models;
·         Reverse the Timorese diaspora and encourage Timorese to return and to become a valuable/central part of building a new nation;
·         Urgently address critical skills needed to rebuild Timor-Leste through a clear, concise and coordinated/consolidated national skills development strategy/implementation plan;
·         Tap into the traditional system of tribal leaders/elders with a view to coaching and mentoring a new and emerging leadership in the country;
·         Establish a Presidential Leadership Development Program endorsed by the President and designed to systematically develop a ‘new generation’ of Timorese leadership for the future;  
·         Consider viability of partnerships with less traditional regional neighbours including emerging ASEAN member countries (especially CLMV);
·         ‘Re-position’ capacity and skills development at the ‘front and centre’ of all current and planned development assistance efforts. In this regard, a ‘back to basics’ approach is advocated where assumptions are ‘tested/verified’ prior to embarking upon a course of action.

Fledgling, fragile, costly and hard fought democracies, the world over, particuarly more recently in Iraq, south Sudan, Egypt, Libya and Afghanistan are teetering on the brink. The reversal of such significant democratic gains in Timor-Leste is simply not an option.  

Bygone days are best consigned to history with the hope that they will never return

Postscript: Sentiments expressed in this blog are personal and do not necessarily represent or reflect the views of others.
















Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Timorese Blessings Received and Counted







A few of the countless nativity scenes on display throughout Dili in the lead up to the 2011 Festive Season. Little effort or expense is spared in an attempt to garner the coveted title of the Best Nativity Scene in Timor-Leste. The Festive Season is hugely significant in the Timorese Christian calender moreso in that it also coincides with the onset of the life-giving, rainy season ushering in months of revival and renewal. This is in stark contrast to the 'Big Dry' where life for man and beast can be quite tenuous.


Baucau's children show unbridled joy, their own unique rain dance, at torrential downpours that have transformed the second biggest town in Timor-Leste into a water playground  

 
Baucau awash yet centuries' old drainage and irrigation systems  are able to divert excess water to where it is most needed without inundation and little or no damage to local infrastructure

 

Wet, wet, wet - a penny for the thoughts of these children as they enjoy one of Timor's greatest blessings in abundance

These is no doubt that the Timorese count their many blessings in the more conventional, Christian-Catholic way but equally in a far more mysterious and fascinating way through their traditional uma Lulik.  In people and nature relationships, Lulik dictates how people should treat nature (especially land) to support their life. According to Josh Trindade, Lulik demands that nature (such as land, water, trees/forest, rocks/stone) must be respected. This is the very reason why Timorese always have ceremonies and/or rituals after harvests and before the planting season. This is to show gratitude and to value the fertility of the land that provides bountiful food crops to the nation. The Sau batar ceremony, before the corn harvest, is an example and is one of the most important rituals for the Timorese.

The main objective of Lulik as a philosophy is to ensure peace and tranquility in society as a whole. This can be achieved through the proper balance between different and opposing elements. As an example, Timorese believe that peace and prosperity can be achieved through a proper balance between the real world and the cosmic world. In this case, people in the real world should follow the rules and regulations set by their ancestors. These rules and regulations can be a harmonious relationship between individuals within family, clan and wider society.


Rice crops outside Manatutu ready to be harvested but for the marauding seed-eating birds that need to be 'discouraged' from claiming their share by an elaborate system of  Timorese scarecrows. In the background moisture-laden clouds slump heavily over the surrounding hillsides

Whereas time was suspended then (in the dry season) it's now in overdrive - rain, soil, biological processes and invading weed/plant species wait for no mankind. It's literally plant for your LIFE!  The the majority of Timorese eke out a subsistence reality, living off the land and crop failures place communities and individual families at the real risk of malnutrition and even starvation. It's uncanny how well the Timorese are synchronised with the natural processes and ebb and flow of life. They ghost, in grey sheets of rain as misty mirages, across their earthy fields performing an age-old, sensuous ritual of renewal – clearing, plowing, hoeing, sowing and tending and at its absolute climax, harvesting. Communities band together, informally, planting up each others' lands in mutual agricultural programs.


A thriving informal market in the Oe-Cusse district where excess produce is either sold or exchanged in an age-old trade. Markets are important socialisation rally points where villagers congregate from through the immediate district to 'reconnect' with friends and family


From mountain to seaside ..... mountain catchment areas are important ecological and hydrological systems that are often mismanaged through excessive, controlled burning

As a land of absolute extremes and dramatic topography, saturated mountain catchment areas deliver broad and localised torrential downpours to valley, floodplain and coast. Destructive flashfloods, in a give-and-take rapport, deposit huge amounts of gravel, silt, topsoil and debris in broad swathes across countless coastal floodplains and then haemorrhage into the sea where they stain pristine coral reefs - blanketing and choking them in a perpetual  tit for tat cycle. Conversely, the abrasive torrents also scour and swash away all before them crafting new landscapes and forms that leave one in awe of nature's raw power.


A family homestead, with communal cooking area on the left and sleeping hut on the right, perched on a hillside in the Oe-cusse district

Family dwelling in a village in the Oe-Cusse district

Shades of life – every imaginable hue of green and regrowth – tamarind, mountain gum, ever evergreen coastal mangroves, leguminous trees and shrubs explode into life at the onset of the rains. Animal  droppings in abundance – plump, glossy, hydrated, nutrient and fibre-rich completing the cycle of life. Offspring of all manner, with their own exuberance borne out of a season of bounty feed and cavort as if there is no tomorrow – all part of a grand design though as months of drought and deprivation are not far away. Domestic pigs foraging within the inter-tidal zone particularly at low tide. This is most certainly a country and bio-physical environment not easily tamed and there is a real sense that the Timorese would not want it any other way. Evidence of this is plain to see - scarred landscapes, a weariness written over most Timorese and many, many cemeteries.

Father and son outside Dili combing the coral reefs at low tide in search of reef and shellfish

Trusty steed in the shade of coastal trees at Dollar Beach


Timor-Leste's incredible bio-diversity ...........


A beautiful barred reef fish


End of the line or rather island .....Timor's most easterly coastal point with Jaco Island in the background

Ladies off Jaco Island show off their catch for the day


Where it all began ..... Portuguese seafarers and explorers established a first colonial presence in the western part of the island at Oe-cusse or Pante Macassar in the 1650s. Currently the 13th Timorese district of Oe-cusse is an enclave located within Indonesian West Timor or Nusa Tenggara Timur

Submerged starfish



Sea urchin

Banded eel snake in the shallows at Com


 
Asian water buffalo between Baucau and Com - a good source of protein and useful in the preparation of rice paddies

Buffs chilling to their heart's content - Oe-cusse district

As Timorese enter into an important 2012, many will be hoping for a few additional blessings - perhaps for orderly, fair, free and democratic presidential and parliamentary elections culminating in a new brand of leadership that will fasttrack vital  development within Timor-Leste.