Trekking in Nepal

Incorporating parts of Annapurna Conservation Area  – Kimche, Ghandruk, Tadapani, Ghorepani, Hile, Birethanti.

Pictures and text by Barry Greville-Eyres

Quintessential Nepal and Himalayas - moody and mystical - local landmarks festooned with Tibetan prayer flags

 

My Nepalese sojourn commenced with a hop and skip (Kabul-New Delhi-Kathmandu) on Spicejet, India’s funky and appropriately branded budget carrier. The  absolutely no frills airline  is relatively efficient and in spite of a mad dash transfer in New Delhi, my final destination was beckoning well within half a travel day.

 

On a wing and prayer to Kathmandu 

 

On arrival in Kathmandu I was made acutely aware, even before setting foot on hallowed Nepalese soil, of the extent to which people's lives - locals as well as tourists - are in the hands of the Gods and bio-physical elements. The loss of 16 Sherpas on the slopes of Everest, to a deadly avalanche of ice and snow, barely weeks earlier was one such cataclysmic event. This resulted in the closure of the 2014 climbing season (with its short April-June window), part expressions of solidarity, respect and frustration by the Sherpa and climbing community at government  intransigence at putting together a comprehensive social welfare and benefits package for the tragically departed mountain guides and their remaining families.

Another was more real and personal. The short flip from New Delhi was uneventful but on our final approach to Kathmandu we were promptly put in a holding pattern as we began to circle, at arm's length, towering stacks of angry and badly bruised cumulonimbus storm clouds. After what seemed like a lifetime and dozens of dizzying circuits we finally landed. We were immediately greeted by a congested, capital city in helter-skelter mode as passengers, pedestrians and commuters scattered in the darkness under torrential downpours. The theme infinitesimal, inconsequential and fallible stayed with me throughout my visit and short trek as we were exposed to the discomfort of whimsical weather, steep terrain and fast flowing rivers, all the while buzzed in the distance by search and rescue helicopters going about their business.

 

Due to my general aversion for capital cities, I was booked on an early morning domestic flight to Pokhara, barely hours after my arrival. There was however ample time to enjoy the heart-warming hospitality of a former work colleague and his family with authentic Nepali cuisine and a tall, cracked Tuborg beer.

My first full day in Nepal was not without its own drama as it appeared as if the entire mountain kingdom was clouded out and flights thoroughly grounded despite the attentions of countless giddy and impatient foreigners. The domestic departure lounge resembled an inner-city, base camp struck down with a sinister malaise as passengers idled around for the weather to clear. I blended into the drab decor with my very ordinary apparel and outdated 'hiking' gear, outdone by a ‘branded’ frenzy of specialist, outdoor adventure equipment every conceivable colour of the neonic rainbow. It reminded me that I should make a point of procuring a hilariously funny, anti-consumerism branded t-shirt with a catchy ‘Hey Fuck Face’ phrase ripping off the well-known adventure brand.


 

It was not particularly comforting to think that the gaudy garb and get up of the average trekker is probably valued at more than the average Nepali annual wage – more than likely far in excess when one considers that GDP per capita earnings are around $800 pa - sobering to say the least! I was quickly educated as to the distinction between hiking and trekking, the Nepalese way, in this part of the world. It's a rather significant one when you consider that the trekking brand is synonymous with Nepal and the Himalayas. Mere, less cool, mortals hike and sightsee basing themselves out of fixed tourist accommodation conducting mainly day trips into the immediate area, often unguided, before returning to the creature comforts of their home base.





Trekking most certainly has a more serious side .....dressed stone and masonry work of exceptional quality - solid, sustainable, earthy and very pleasing to the eye 

 

Trekking is mainly guided and 'rolling' in nature where village-based guesthouses or lodges are used, en route, with all amenities including catering (dinner and breakfast) and bedding provided as part of a package deal. Its mainly the super-cool that trek and its worn as a badge of courage. A variation to the theme, the exclusive domain of the uber wealthy, is camp trekking which is a throwback to the original form of trekking prior to the introduction of homestays or guesthouses. Porters are used extensively to carry the full set of camping equipment and accoutrements in addition to the trekking guide(s) and camp is set up at the end of each day at designated camp sites. A typical colonial African safari, of sorts, in Asia minus the lions, elephants and antelope. It was not uncommon in the 1950s and 1960s for porters to be saddled with loads of up to 100kgs per day over extended treks. Decades later the loads dropped to approximately 70kgs and nowadays porters do not normally shoulder more than 30kgs per day.




Easier on the eye and some of the older, more traditional accommodation establishments catering primarily for trekkers depicting high quality stonework with exquisite surrounding mountain views



A more upmarket accommodation establishment en route to Ghandruk

Accommodation options aplenty at both Upper and Lower Ghorepani bring into question the issues of sustainability and over-development

 

It was pleasing to note that a regulatory framework has been introduced, into the entire trekking industry, by the Nepali government through a qualification and registration system for service providers – guesthouses/lodges, trekking guides and porters with the Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal (TAAN).  Similarly, trekkers are legally required by the National Trust for Conservation to have a valid entry permit into the relevant trekking area. In our case this was the Annapurna (Nepali for Goddess of the Harvest) Conservation Area. Furthermore, the Trekkers’ Information Management System (TIMS) captures all relevant data into a database enabling, presumably, accurate tracking of trekker whereabouts and area-wide carrying capacities expressly for management purposes.

Measures put in place by the government and allied trekking association to regulate the industry  

Access point to the Annapurna Conservation Area

 

According to my own expert trekking guide, Krisna Bahadur Gurung (krisnababu22@hotmail.com Mobile no. +977- 9846104807 Government license no.406 from ACME Adventure Treks) its not only highly recommended but also mandatory to contract the services of a suitably qualified guide on any trek. On our short trek it was evident that this requirement is openly flaunted by foreigners to the detriment of the trekkers themselves (personal safety and security as well as the loss of an important socio-cultural teaching and learning opportunity) and also the industry (employment and revenue generation opportunities for Nepal). Its understandable that free-spirited individuals or groups would wish to do their own thing but I have an issue when people are downright irresponsible and blatantly break the law.

Krisna trying his hand in the kitchen at one of our overnight stops
 



Nothing beats the heat of a good wood burning stove! The blogger is flanked by Buddhi (L) and Krisna (R), seasoned trekking guides that have racked up over 50 years solid experience between the two of them throughout the Himalayas


 

 

Onto more pleasurable pursuits …. trekking in the Annapurna Conservation Area which is, essentially, a fascinating, highly successful, age-old sustainable tourism / local economic development model that WORKS. It's so simple and seems to come so naturally to the rural Nepalese people, largely without any support or direct intervention from the government. It’s predominantly centred upon the best-fit and sustainable use of bio-physical and other resources at their disposal. Have the intoxicating and invigorating Himalayan mountains (Nepali for Mountain of Snows); an extensive working and community maintained network of trails/treks; countless villages with rudimentary or more advanced homestays; spice it up with a dash of danger – masochism; the allure and mystic of Tibetan Buddhism spirituality; throw in Nepali nonchalance and charm and it all contributes to an adventure tourism cocktail par excellence.

A snow-melt swollen river which will soon convey heavy monsoon rains down to the lowlands



Pre-dawn view of Machhapuchhre or Fishtail Range with the peak itself rising to 6997m captured from Tadapani  






A series of spectacular waterfalls encountered, prior to the onset of the monsoon season, along the descending trek from Hile to Birethanti



The mountainous massif of Annapurna South

 

 

The theme of Nepali self-determination, resilience and sustainability is all pervading -  most foodstuffs are grown or produced locally - organic vegetables (potatoes, green beans, corn, cabbage, spinach, field greens; diary (buffalo & beef); poultry (primarily for egg production) and cereal crops (rice, millet, wheat). Other essentials are packed in by mule-trains or by horseback. As transient travellers it’s fascinating to observe highly successful farming practices in action - irrigation, planting, mulching, soil improvement and enrichment with manure from small and large livestock.






Highly prized mule-trains and their drivers traverse the mountains doing the heavy lifting from road heads to remote villages packing almost every conceivable commodity including building materials

 

The farm gate to dinner plate scenario plays itself out daily and whilst trekking you have the unique opportunity to sample some of the fresh farm produce on offer. Dal baht or specifically Nepali chicken dal baht power – packing Himalayan Power for 24 hours - is standard trekking fare for guides, porters and trekkers alike providing a solid, wholesome meal. Dal or lentils in the form of a watery gruel is served together with chicken soup; lightly curried potatoes and green beans; local greens or Asian spinach with onion and garlic; copious amounts of rice; and a side serving of spicy pickles.





Chicken dal baht for 24 hour Himalayan Power .... standard trekking fare village grown and cooked organic food that is wholesome and nutritious

 Average guesthouse, on trek, accommodation is priced at around $15 p.n. including a light breakfast. Lunches and dinners average $5 per meal - hot beverages - an assortment of teas with masala being my favourite are under a dollar a cup with pots being slightly cheaper. Alcohol is generally on offer at most guesthouses and large Nepalese brewed beers including Tuborg, Everest, Gorkha are priced at around $4-5.





Trek-side accommodation, dressed up in the local architectural style, providing solid and comfortable lodgings for transient trekkers throughout the Annapurna Conservation Area

  

In my shortest of interludes I did, however, observe some flaws particularly around the issue of sustainability and government regulation. Paradoxically, this is the case in that guesthouse development is burgeoning, seemingly unchecked, without due consideration for environmental, aesthetic and pyscho-social carrying capacities. One wonders whether there will be a reasonable rate of return on capital investments as quaint, trek-side hamlets mushroom into misplaced dormitory-styled lodgings.





Uncontrolled, local guesthouse development poses a threat to an 'authentic trekking experience' where there is seemingly little or no regard for ecological and  psycho-social impacts



Yet another eye-catching, trek side accommodation establishment

In the area where ostensibly regulation is in place i.e. the requirement to use, as a non-negotiable, TAAN trained and certified guides this has apparently fallen by the wayside in recent years. No matter how tame and user-friendly the trekking experience may seem (which is definitely not the case) I'm of the view that no-one should be permitted to trek without using the service of a qualified guide.
 

Whereas trekking masses may find Wi-Fi, internet and mobile phone access cool and a natural extension of their everyday life, I personally find it inappropriate, intrusive and uncool in a place like Nepal especially in the Himalayan Mountains. One has the desire to ‘get away from it all’ but when confronted with fellow trekkers phubbing away and /or surfing the net on their mobiles or glued to television screens spruiking gibberish it becomes a bit too much.




Creature comforts such as home-made apple pie, mobile phone networks, Wi-Fi and pizzas are largely misplaced in such an extraordinary setting, in my view, and discerning trekkers will find signs like this somewhat amusing but beyond that intrusive and off-putting. 

One of the more interesting signs encountered - it DOES NOT indicate a Wi-Fi free zone but rather significant, village-based WASH - water, sanitation and hygiene improvements

 

A frequent, personal lament was for a trek less travelled and trammelled because I found the sheer numbers of people on the trek and overnighting at guesthouses difficult to contend with but I had to remind myself that the land use option or protected area status (conservation) was far from pristine wilderness, where carrying capacities are reduced significantly for specific ecological and social reasons. In spite of the heavy trekking traffic, which includes regular mule trains, the walking surface was in superb condition (well drained, expertly stepped, contoured and more often than not paved with durable stone slabs) and litter was almost non-existent. 





Krisna on the slow, steady ascent to Ghandruk with a clear view of the excellent trekking surface

Traditional gateway to many of the villages and accommodation establishments within the Annapurna Conservation Area

 

Some of my most vivid trekking recollections include: the multi-national composition of trekkers and the respective groups including countless orderly Asians (mainly Koreans, Chinese and Japanese); Europeans - Germans and odd Australians with representation across all age groups. Strikingly, a fair percentage of trekkers were solitary men and women with their own trekking guide - testimony to the trust, safety and security, credibility, and reliability of the TAAN professional association system. Trekking days were generally very enjoyable and varied, filled with 1001 Namastes and hi's due to ‘moderate’ trekking traffic which tends to peak during the high season which extends from September–December. The month of May is on the cusp of the 3 month monsoon season which extends through to early September where water and river levels rise appreciably and often dramatically in the form of flash flooding and rockfalls/mudslides.

This gently meandering stream will turn into a raging torrent in a few months with the onset of the monsoon season



The Annapurna Autobahn - a private joke shared with Krisna on our final descent from Ghorepani when we encountered a large, boisterous group of German trekkers



One can only but wonder .......

 

Krisna Bahadur Gurung was a revelation, fantastic trekking guide and wonderful travel companion.  His quick wit and ‘old world’ turn of phrase was quaint and very amusing. Krisna would refer to the ‘mountains as being shy’ when they were obscured by clouds; bashfully introduced me to raksi – a local, millet-brewed white spirit which is obviously a cure for all ills – when taken in moderation. On an assessment of menus at respective guesthouses he would refer to two main categories of meals – light or heavy with an obvious reference to calorific intake to sustain one throughout a trekking day. He revelled in our celebratory drink at the end of our trek and time together and was obviously highly appreciative of the generous tip that was deservedly bestowed on him.

One of my most bizarre on trek observations was that I soon became convinced, by the look on people’s faces and associated body language, how little they were prepared for or were actually enjoying their trekking experience. It was rare to encounter happy, smiling trekkers and there was a real sense that many of the trekkers had been conned or seduced by sexy marketing, unwittingly, into the experience. I was on a perpetual high with the ‘entire package deal’ and found it very difficult to relate to strained, bland or occasional pissed off  faces – it all seemed so out of place. 

 

A creative, non-verbal way to express, in more ways than one,  the immense satisfaction and exhilaration derived from trekking Nepal! Photo: Courtesy of Gerda Kollmann

One of many guesthouses encountered catering for the needs of most trekkers including spectacular mountain views



Finally..... yet another guesthouse in the Ghandruk area clearly depicting the care, pride and pleasure put into keeping trekkers comfortable, secure and safe

 

 

 

 

 



 



 

 

 

 

 

Nepal's Greatest Export and its Thriving Remittance Economy

Text and Pictures by the Blogger 

Mention Nepal and the unacquainted masses will immediately conjure up breathless images of the snow-capped rooftop of the world - Mt. Everest together with Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in their sublime 1953 summit, arguably one of but not the greatest Nepali export. The spectacular Himalayan landscape, eco-and adventure tourism opportunities and diverse, exotic cultures of Nepal represent considerable potential for a vibrant travel and leisure industry, but growth in this industry has been stifled, in recent years, by political insecurity and poor infrastructure. Despite these problems, in 2012 the number of international tourists visiting Nepal was 598,204, a 10% increase on the previous year. The tourism sector contributed nearly 3% of national GDP in 2012 and is the second biggest foreign income earner after remittances.

It’s no longer a stretch of the imagination and its an established fact that the Nepali people themselves are the country’s greatest export, especially when one considers that out of a population of approximately 27 million, nearly 2 million are absentee or migrant workers living abroad. Remittance, the transfer of foreign earnings (saved salaries and wages) by an absent worker to his or her home country, has become the mainstay of the Nepalese economy especially in the past decade. According to MPI Data Hub “Migration facts, stats and maps,” remittance received increased to $3,507 million in 2010 from $111 million in 2000.

Remittance is one of the fastest growing sectors in the Nepali economy and is estimated to be equivalent to 25-30% of GDP

Nepal's gross domestic product for 2012 was estimated at over $17.921 billion (adjusted to Nominal GDP). In 2010, agriculture accounted for 36%, services comprise 48%, and industry 15% of Nepal's GDP.  While agriculture and industry are contracting, the contribution by the service sector is increasing. Agriculture employs 76% of the workforce, services 18% and manufacturing/craft-based industry 6%. Remittance is one of the fastest growing sectors in the Nepali economy and is estimated to be equivalent to 25–30% of GDP with the figure pegged at 23% in 2013. This is significant in any impoverished country and particularly in the case of Nepal which was ranked in the 157^th place on the Human Development Index (HDI - in 2013) and is one of the least developed nations in the entire world.

According to Singh (2013), Nepal is among the top five remittance countries globally with Tajikistan, Tonga, Lesotho and Moldova ranking above Nepal. Humble remittance beginnings can be traced back to the early 19th century when a sizeable Nepali population were conscripted into the British army and subsequently served with the allied powers during successive World Wars. Nepal receives approximately $50 million a year through its highly acclaimed Gurkha soldiers who serve in the Indian and British armies. With the advent of the private security contractors (PSC) industry, captured in a previous posting entitled Gargantuan Gurkhas – Nepal’s Unsung Heroes! (http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/), remittance from this source alone is largely unknown, but substantial nevertheless. This is particularly the case when one considers that several thousand Nepali PSCs have been contracted to provide base protection and other security services in Iraq and Afghanistan for well over a decade. A wholly Nepali Gurkha company in Afghanistan has currently over 700 former soldiers serving on its payroll alone. This data discrepancy confirms the immense challenge that the Nepali government has with regard to poor or undocumented labor migration information as its ‘official’ record has it that in 2010 there were only 472 migrant workers in Afghanistan.

Formal remittance or money transfer avenues but there are clear indications that inflows of remittance via 'informal channels' are equally problematic

  

Malaysia (146,938) and the Gulf countries (Qatar - 26,993, Saudi Arabia - 46,047, Bahrain – 16,673 and UAE - 21,346) accounted for 90% of Nepali migrant workers in 2010. Unprecedented migration commenced with the construction boom in the emerging economies in Asia and Gulf countries in the 1980s, providing the ideal opportunity for “young, energetic and dashing Nepalese to venture out for foreign employment and substantially higher income opportunities – all in the quest for a respectable and prestigious life.” Shumshere contends that this has led to “political and economic empowerment of people including women, offering an alternative to land-based and agrarian wealth. Around 83% of the total population lives in rural areas, meaning that not only is Nepal primarily an agrarian economy, but that population pressure on land and natural resources is also rather severe. It’s for this very reason that at least one individual from each household is engaged in employment abroad. Therefore, remittance has become an important source of household income for a large section of the country’s population. For low income people, remittance is the most important and often the only means of survival.

The rate of unemployment and underemployment in Nepal, which approaches half of the working-age population, is another key factor in the remittance economy. According to the Nepali Department of Foreign Employment the number of Nepali labor working abroad has been increasing through the years and in 2012 stood at 530,250. Nepal sends 1% skilled and 29% semi-skilled workers to about 108 destinations. The remaining 70% of workers are unskilled. This shows there is a high demand for unskilled labor abroad. Thus many citizens move to other countries in search of work. Favored destinations, not mentioned previously, include India, the United States, Thailand, the United Kingdom, Japan, Brunei Darussalam, Australia, and Canada.

A long-standing economic agreement underpins a close relationship with India. Nepal receives substantial foreign aid from India, Japan, the UK, the US, the EU, China, Switzerland, and Scandinavian countries. Poverty is acute; per-capita income is around $1,000. The distribution of wealth among the Nepalese is consistent with that in many developed and developing countries: the highest 10% of households control 39% of the national wealth and the lowest 10% control only 2.6%.

The proportion of poor Nepali people has declined substantially in recent years. The % of people living below the international poverty line (people earning less than US$1.25 per day) has halved in only seven years. At this measure of poverty the % of poor people declined from 53% in 2003/2004 to 25% in 2010/2011. With a higher poverty line of US$2 per-capita per day, poverty declined by one quarter to 57%.  However, the income distribution remains grossly uneven. In a recent survey, Nepal has performed extremely well in reducing poverty along with Rwanda and Bangladesh as the percentage of poor dropped to 44% of the population in 2011 from 65% in 2006 –4% points per year, which means that Nepal has made significant improvement in sectors like nutrition, child mortality, and electricity supply. Its argued that if the progress of reducing poverty continues at this rate, then it's predicted that Nepal will halve the current poverty rate and eradicate it within the next 20 years.

For low income Nepalese remittance is the most important means of survival

Nepal has close ties with both of its neighbors, India and China. In accordance with a long-standing treaty, Indian and Nepalese citizens may travel to each other's countries without a passport or visa. Nepalese citizens may work in India without legal restriction. The Indian Army maintains seven Gurkha regiments consisting of Gurkha troops recruited mostly from Nepal.

In conclusion, Nepal’s astounding growth in remittances is not without its “issues” or very real dangers. Singh cautions that “no matter how much remittance increases every year, the threat to the Nepalese economy because overt dependence on remittance from migrant labor may not be sustainable in the long term.” Retention of Nepal’s greatest export, its productive workforce, should become a policy imperative otherwise domestic productivity will continue to decline and the country could face a human resource crisis in the near future. Domestic and international workforce planning need to be encapsulated into a broad-based, labor policy framework that is able to address current and emerging challenges in a proactive fashion.

Some of the key findings and issues flagged by Singh include:

·         The increasing trend of migration and problems faced by migrants abroad, socio-cultural and exploitation also means there is serious problem with migration governance and a lack of government responsiveness towards creating job opportunities in Nepal;

·         Though migrant labor has led to high inflows of remitted income, it has not impacted the economy in a positive way. Slow economic growth coupled with high import-based consumption is still a problem in the country;

·         The flow of remittance through informal channels has also been a hindrance to economic development. This has encouraged money laundering.

References:

Dr Ashok Shumshere J.B.R. 2010 The Himalayan Times. Remittance Economy

Ajita Singh. 2012. Remittance and Nepalese Economy: Some Issues.

Gargantuan Gurkhas - Nepal's Unsung Heroes!

Words and pictures by Barry Greville-Eyres

Notwithstanding the controversy and professional distinction between groupings within the broader Gurkha Contingent (GC) – Indian, British, Nepali, Malaysian and Singaporean, this post addresses all Nepalese Gurkhas wherever they serve(d) and is designed to cast a spotlight on their immense military, peacekeeping and humanitarian achievements spanning centuries. It’s also an attempt to personalise everyday interactions with these amazing people and convey the extent to which our lives, as civilian clients, are made so safe and normal by their shadowy, protective presence.  It also celebrates the Nepali heritage, work ethos and professionalism, rich culture and traditions all of which have withstood, unwaveringly, the test of time.

Colours and symbolism of Nepal's famous Gurkhas with, at centrepiece, their traditional and signature weapon the khukuri - a forward curving Nepalese knife. Gurkhas have an indisputable reputation for their fearless military prowess

In recent travel to Nepal and in countless conversations with Nepalese, serving and retired Gurkhas, the perpetual questions of:  Why has so little been said and written about the achievements of the Warrior Gurkhas  (the absence of stories by Gurkhas for Nepali and broad-based consumption) are generally met by shrugs of the shoulders, casual nonchalance and sheepish grins – all of a decidedly conspiratorial nature.  In the delightful albeit gung-ho blog posting by James G, entitled Civilian Contractors: The Nepali Gurkha in International Security Contracting – October 2010, a number of select quotations, comments and anecdotes extol Gurkha virtues superbly and imaginatively, some of which are shared below. I hope blend these into my own personal narrative and experience, with the confidence that I do our unsung heroes justice.

“If a man says he is not afraid of dying, he is either lying or is a Gurkha”
Field  Marshal Sam Manekshaw - Former Chief of staff of the Indian Army

Having served, as a development practitioner, on tours in consecutive fragile and conflict affected states (Iraq, Timor-Leste and Afghanistan respectively) there is no escaping the vexing issue of international security contracting and those, civilian contractors, that ply their trade in this morphing multi-billion dollar industry.  My personal history (mandatory military conscription and active service in the South West African/Angolan Border War 1981/82) and subsequent close proximity to many private security contractors (PSCs) or civilian contractors (especially South African) primarily in Iraq - Baghdad, prompted me to pen an earlier posting entitled ‘Saluting Iraq’s Gentle and Caring Infidels’ (http://barrygreville-eyres.blogspot.com/2011/02/saluting-iraqs-gentle-and-caring_04.html). Struck by post-Apartheid’s spreading South African diaspora, military and civilian, I felt compelled to tell our story. Years later, there is the need to do the same on behalf of Nepali friends, colleagues and Gurkhas as they too have to contend with their own, equally fascinating diaspora.

  

“10 Expat PSC’s aren’t equal to 1 Gurkha PSC – These self-entitled US or UK PSC’s always have sand in their vaginas despite the fact they get paid 20 times more and do 1/50th the amount of work an ex-Gurkha PSC does.”

Anon, Security Contractor, Convoy Escort TL Baghdad, Iraq 2004

My most vivid, in field, recollections of Gurkha character and fortitude include snappy salutes and friendly "Good morning Sirs;" immaculately turned out men going about their business with great pride and dedication; a parched, dusty and desolate compound in Kandahar where the only life and greenery was delivered through the patchwork of lovingly tendered vegetable gardens; posted sentries having to put up with semi-inebriated and smart-arsed expats in Baghdad; countrymen and brothers-in-arms drawing great strength and comfort from one another on endless tours of duty far from family and loved ones; mind numbing routine after routine blending into so many years....... its what these men do to support their extended Nepalese families.

Early Gurkha beginnings include the Anglo-Nepalese War (1814–1816) which was fought between the Gurkha Kingdom of Nepal and the British East Indian Company as a result of territorial disputes and ruthless expansionism of both confrontational parties but more so, probably, by the bullying Brits. The impressive Gorkhali soldiers were recruited mainly from the Nepali hill tribes such as the Magar, Gurung, Tamang, Sherpa, Chhetri, Thakuris, Rai and Limbu, although original Gurkhali soldiers were mainly of Chhetri, Thakuri, Gurung, Magar, Rai and Limbu ethnics.



Gurkhas in the making - Nusseree Battalion Circa, 1857

There were many battles of which the Battle of Kalanga in 1814 is well documented. Balbhadra Kunwar, who had approximately 600 Gurkhas under his command, held high ground against some 4,000 attacking British troops. After being besieged for almost a month and in almost constant mortal combat Balbhadra and about 70 remaining survivors managed to slip away, silently and undetected, through the British lines. The war ended with the signing of the Peace Treaty of Sugauli in 1816 and it was agreed that Gorkhalis could be recruited to serve under contract in the East India Company's army. Under contract implies some form of remuneration and perhaps the true origin of the latter day remittance economy that thrives within Nepal to this day. 

In a personal conversation with Padam Bahadur Limbu MVO (Bahadur Limbu – one of the original Gurkha Warrior Castes in Nepal), retired British Army Major (2nd Battalion, Royal Gurkha Rifles) and current Senior Project Manager for IDG Gurkha Security Services (Afghanistan) he confirmed “the pride and importance of the home-grown, Nepali Gurkha brand name globally, particularly within military and security contracting circles.” According to him the brand is indisputable and synonymous with “professionalism, impeccable discipline and service, integrity, resilience, reliability and unsurpassed bravery and toughness.”

A 3^rd generation Gurkha, Padam served for 31years in the British Gurkha Army undertaking tours of duty in the Falkland Islands, Bosnia, Sierra Leone, Iraq, Afghanistan. He was somewhat reluctant to discuss his first tour of duty, as a very young man, to the distant Falklands War  more out of modesty than bravado.  Amongst many personal achievements and distinguished decorations, his most prized is MVO Member, The Royal Victorian Order. Membership is conferred by the reigning monarch, in this case HM Queen Elizabeth II, on those who have performed personal service for the sovereign. Padam served directly as Queen's orderly officer at Buckingham Palace for HM Queen. 

 

 

 

Major Padam Bahadur Limbu MVO, proud recipient of the illustrious decoration Member, The Royal Victorian Order together with his family at Buckingham Palace. (Photo: Courtesy of Padam Bahadur Limbu)

 

. “As a testament to these fearless little warriors from Nepal, is a story (that can be verified) from the Falklands Conflict. The Argentinians were dug in on one of the mountains leading up to Port Stanley and were intent on making a fight of it. When they were told that they would be up against the Gurkhas, to a man, they either surrendered or fled, without a shot being fired. Of course, the Ghurkas were very disappointed with this outcome but I think it speaks volumes of the reputation of these tough little fighters.”

 Richard Newson

 

 

 

Major Padam Bahadur Limbu, 2nd  Battalion Royal Gurkha Rifles at Buckingham Palace prior to receiving his MVO award for personal service to HM Queen Elizabeth II   (Photo: Courtesy of Padam Bahadur Limbu)

 

 

 

 

 

Of IDG, founded by the rather private and reclusive Ian Douglas Gordon aka IDG (comrades-in-arms and also ex-officer with the 7^th Duke of Edinburgh’s Own Gurkha Rifles) Padam confirmed that within Afghanistan IDG provides exclusive personal security and key installation/property protections services to a host of UN agencies country-wide. The company specializes in Gurkha - 100% Nepali recruited and Indian domiciled – international armed guards that are selected and placed according to IDG’s stringent selection criteria including a minimum of 14 years active military service. Unlike other PSCs who use ‘intermediate’ recruitment agencies, IDG is the real deal and currently employs over 700 highly trained and experienced Gurkhas throughout Afghanistan.

Whereas Nepal's GDP per capita income is estimated at $1,200 - $1,400 pa (2012), most internationally contracted Gurkhas earn this per month. Since most overseas living expenses (accommodation, food, clothing/uniforms) are provided by the contractor or employer, the bulk of savings are remitted back to their families, often living in rural Nepal. Typically, serving Gurkhas have annual leave of about a month where they are flown back home at company expense.   

One of the many distinguished British Army Gurkha regiments - 7th Duke of Edinburgh's Own Gurkha Rifles

Padam was rather outspoken on the “misrepresentation of the enduring Gurkha brand and its erosion and potential abuse by unscrupulous players in the burgeoning PSC market place.” According to Padam ‘fake Gurkhas,’ without requisite training, skills and experience, tarnish the true Gurkha reputation and tradition and potentially put the lives of clients at very real risk.  Although no longer a resident of Nepal, Padam visits his former homeland almost every year and is proudly Nepali. He speaks fondly of his countrymen and the immense sacrifice and contributions they have made to the stability, reconstruction and development of Afghanistan – a far cry from the days when Gurkas, conscripted into the British Army, faced active combat in distant and exotic destinations such as Kabul and Kandahar (1878–1880). It’s estimated that at any one time there are several thousand Nepalese living and working, throughout Afghanistan, serving in many diverse roles and occupations.

Home-grown and brewed - the Gorkha brand is authentic, reputable and timeless and obviously wholly Nepali Himalayan 

“Having had the pleasure of working side by side with Gurkhas a few times throughout my contracting career I can attest to their discipline and professionalism. Out of all the groups of people I have worked with the ex-Brit Gurkha is by far my favorite.”

“You will never meet an ex-Brit Gurkha PSC who has the Douchebag Affliction shirt wearing, beard growing, shitty attitude that is unfortunately so prevalent in this industry these days. These guys have zero ego despite having more combat experience in their pinky than most people have in their entire body – and I am talking about old school combat experience like “wearing face-paint in the jungle” type of fighting.”

Anon.

Gurkhas were always thought to be a superior warrior or martial race because they were considered to be naturally warlike and aggressive in battle; to possess attributes of courage, loyalty, self-reliance, physical strength, resilience, organization; to be able to work hard for long periods of time and; to fight with resolve and military strength. In preparation for some modest trekking in the Annapurna Conservation Area and upon the sound recommendation of a Nepali friend of a Nepali friend, I was able to engage the superb guiding services of  Krisna Bahadur Gurung (krisnababu22@hotmail.com Mobile no. +977 – 9846104807).

The blogger with Krisna Bahadur Gurung taking a breather, on a mountain high and trek, within the Annapurna Conservation Area

After trekking together for several days I was left with no doubt that Krisna, hailing from the village of Gorkha and specifically from the Gurung hill tribe, was one such superior human being. With the burning desire to follow in the true Gurkha tradition, he faltered at the final selection hurdle due to his inability to meet the minimum set weight requirement of 50kgs. Its with a calm resignation, maturity and re-directed energy and commitment (to being the best possible professional trekking guide) that this personal disappointment still and will always remain with him.  This was brought sharply to the fore when he accompanied me to one of the many jewels in Pokhara’s (Nepal’s second largest city) crown – the Gurkha Memorial Musuem. Pride and pleasure were tinged with a real sense of loss and regret - all on a crazy collision course which left us both pretty bewildered.

The Gurkha Memorial Museum a must visit  asset in Pokhara 

We’d both come off a mountain high and I was totally unprepared for the avalanche of emotions that rushed down upon me as we worked our way through the museum. The more recent, recorded history (1800s onwards) is captured in an honest and wholly unpretentious manner. With an unquestionable and impressive roll of honor, I was welcomed into this inner sanctum – drawn by countless ethereal greetings and knowing gazes of serious, virile young men who’d had their date with destiny and glory. I was deeply moved by their call to serve, campaign upon campaign – so little personal gain yet such sacrifice on foreign shores afar.  Many men betrayed shades of mischief, adventure, indomitable belief and innocence but all wore their immaculate uniforms, literally and figuratively as one - gargantuan Gurkha! 

        

To Krisna’s credit, he has progressed through the ranks from a teenaged porter hauling, nimble-footed and at great speed, ungainly loads of up to 70kgs over insane terrain to the pinnacle of his profession – a highly polished, knowledgeably and thoroughly professional trekking guide. From my perspective it was uncanny to witness this genetic programming in action – Krisna’s ease with and reading of clients of all nationalities; his uncanny field and bush craft; his powers of observation and anticipation to catch a client when he/she falters or falls; his natural service orientation and so strikingly, his radiant Nepali sunshine and personality as it emerges from behind the clouds of doubt and insecurity.

   

Since its formation in 1949 with 142 men, the Gurkha contingent has grown to over 2,000 in size in 2003. This was a consequence of Indian Independence from Britain in 1947, where 10 regiments of Gurkhas from the British Indian Army were divided between the Indian Army (Gorkha) and the British Army (Gurkha). Those transferred to the British Army were posted to other remaining British Colonies in Malaya and Singapore. Young men are recruited in Nepal at the British Gurkha camp in Pokhara. About 370 are selected annually in December out of a pool of over 20,000 applications with about 140 eventually joining the GC while the rest will go to the British Army.

Some of the basic physical admission criteria in the recruitment camp include:

  Aged 17½ to 21

  Minimum height of 160 centimetres (5 feet)

  Minimum weight of 50 kilograms (110 lbs)

  Chest circumference of 79 centimetres (31 in) with minimum 5 centimetres (2 in) expansion

  No applicants needing eyesight aids will be accepted.

  Generally good oral hygiene, with up to two fillings, false teeth or a single gap.

The proud Gurkha legacy lives on

Applicants are expected to possess a minimum education level of SLC 3rd Division equivalent to 'O' Levels. Upon registration, they have to go through a battery of physical and mental assessments prior to selection, including oral and written tests in the English language, a mathematics test, a board interview and medical examination. The annual selection process, which normally takes 17 days but is spread over four months due to conditions in Nepal, will then assign recruits to either the GC or the British Army.

During World War II (1939–45), following the Dunkirk evacuation of the British Expeditionary Force in 1940, the Nepalese government offered to increase recruitment of Gurkha battalions in British service to thirty-five. This would eventually rise to forty-three battalions. This expansion required ten training centres to be established for basic training and regimental records across India. In addition five training battalions were raised, while other units were raised as garrison battalions for keeping the peace in India and defending rear areas. Large numbers of Gurkha men were also recruited for non-Gurkha units, and other specialised functions such as paratroops, signals, engineers, and military police.

 “Gurkha combat rifle load is 20 rounds. Their combat philosophy is to close on the enemy with those 20 rounds, and use the Kukri to eliminate the enemy.”

 “Those guys are some of the most switched on dudes I have come across. I haven’t worked with them, but have been around them and I was impressed.”

A total of 250,280 Gurkhas served in 40 battalions, plus eight Nepalese Army battalions, plus parachute, training, garrison, and porter units during the war, in almost all theatres. In addition to keeping peace in India, Gurkhas fought in the hot deserts of North Africa, the cold winters of Europe or the muddy jungles of Burma. Apart from small detachments, the main Gurkha regiments fought in Italy, Greece and Burma. They did so with considerable distinction, earning 2,734 bravery awards including 10 Victoria Crosses in the process and suffering around 32,000 casualties – wounded, dead or missing – in all theatres of war. In effect the entire youth of Nepal was placed at the disposal of the British war machine. With a population of only four million people at the time, this meant that almost every Nepali of military age was serving the British Crown.

In the 1920’s and 1930’s the Gurkha regiments formed a substantial part of the Garrison of India, and played an active and special role securing its borders and holding its remotest regions. In 1935, during a fatal earthquake in Quetta – Pakistan two Gurkas from the 8^th Gurkha Rifles received the George Cross for extreme bravery not in the face of the enemy. 

Gurkha Roll of Honour - 13 Victoria Cross recipients for bravery and gallantry 

  

During World War I (1914–18), more than 200,000 Gurkhas served in the British Army in Europe, suffering approximately 20,000 casualties, and receiving almost 2,000 gallantry awards. The number of Gurkha battalions was increased to thirty-three, and Gurkha units were placed at the disposal of the British high command by the Nepalese government for service on all fronts. Many Nepalese volunteers served in non-combatant roles, serving in units such as the Army Bearer Corps and the labour battalions, but there were also large numbers that served in combat in France, Turkey, Palestine, and Mesopotamia. They served on the battlefields of France in Mesopotamia, Persia, Suez Canal and Palestine against Turkish advance, Gallipoi and Salonika. During the ultimately unsuccessful Gallipoli campaign in 1915, the Gurkhas were among the first to arrive and the last to leave.

“As I write these last words, my thoughts return to you who were my comrades, the stubborn and indomitable peasants of Nepal. Once more I hear the laughter with which you greeted every hardship. Once more I see you in your bivouacs or about your fires, on forced march or in the trenches, now shivering with wet and cold, now scorched by a pitiless and burning sun. Uncomplaining you endure hunger and thirst and wounds; and at the last your unwavering lines disappear into the smoke and wrath of battle. Bravest of the brave, most generous of the generous, never had country more faithful friends than you.”

Professor Sir Ralph Turner, MC - 3rd Queen Alexandra’s Own Gurkha Rifles World War I

Nepali Gurkhas heavily involved in Afghanistan whether in the formal military or international security contracting

Gurkhas are served and saw action in the Falklands War in 1982, in the Gulf conflict in 1990 and thereafter in peacekeeping missions to Africa, the former Yugoslavia, Timor-Leste, Afghanistan, Macedonia, Bosnia and Sierra Leone.

Enough said!

 

 

Postscript

On the 18^th April 2014, 16 Nepali Mountain Warriors or Sherpas (from the Sherpa tribe) lost their lives on the slopes of Mt. Everest, to a deadly avalanche of ice and snow, whilst preparing for the 2014 climbing season. Some Sherpa guides were angered by the government's meagre offer of compensation to victim's families and threatened a strong protest or strike. On 22nd April, the Sherpas announced they would not work on Everest for the remainder of 2014 as a mark of respect for the victims and their families. More than 250 people have died climbing Mount Everest. However, the 2014 avalanche was the deadliest in Everest's history, superseding a 1996 disaster when eight foreign climbers died. 

 In life and death, we salute Nepal’s Unsung Heroes!

In life and death we salute Nepal's Unsung Heroes!